Oil types/viscosities have been the topic of much discussion here on
the list. I don't think saying that 20w50 is the ONLY oil that we
should run is an accurate statement. First of all, I think everyone
would agree that's a bit thick for anyone driving the car in winter
(admittedly not many of us do, but I drove my car as daily transport
during my junior and senior years at high school, through 4 inches of
snow on some days). Also, the synthetic oils offer benefits that many
of us find attractive. I like to run Castrol Syntec 5w50 in my car,
because I like the very low viscosity at startup, allowing the oil to
get to every part of the engine as soon as possible during that harsh
startup period. I definitely noticed that my oil pressure gauge comes
online faster with 5w50 synthetic than with the 20w50 Castrol GTX I
used to run.
Also, I wanted to address break-in periods. I had never heard of these
warnings against using synthetic oil during break in, and used 5w50
synthetic for break-in, from day one of my most recent engine rebuild.
I changed it after 800 miles or so, and have changed it every 3000
since then. The rings seated fine, and I've had no problems. The
engine now has over 15,000 miles on it. Many new cars are coming from
the factory with sythetic oil with 0 miles on the engine, and
manufacturers have no problem with this. Also, break-in
recommendations have been abandonned by most major auto manufacturers.
I was taught that on a fresh engine, you should be constantly varying
load and rpm, to properly seat everything. Also, I was taught not to
push the engine to redline and wide open throttle until those magical
first 1000 miles were accomplished. I've always followed this advice.
However, I don't understand what makes new cars so magical that they
don't need this break-in. They may have exotic multi-valve overhead
cam engines and VTEC, but when it comes down to it, the basic
architecture is the same as our cars. They're not using incredibly
exotic materials, so what gives? I think it's because the average new
car buyer doesn't understand any of this stuff, and doesn't want to be
told that he shouldn't floor it whenever he wants and should always be
worrying about changing rpm and load. Auto manufacturers understand
this, and I think that maybe they've discovered that the
recommendations they used to make regarding break-in were overly
cautious and not necessary.
And here's another one for you. I went with my girlfriend to the local
Jiffy Lube for an oil change on her 98 Honda Civic. Checked the owners
manual for the hell of it, and found that Honda recommends 5w30 motor
oil. I practically fell over, my feeling was that this is much too
thin, especially for the heat of summer. Honda's owners manual quoted
this motor oil in order to keep gas mileage high. I can't believe they
recommend thin oil just because it gives better gas mileage. They'd
rather save a few cents on gas than protect the engine??!! However, I
have every bit of faith that Honda is right. They know a whole hell of
a lot more about this than any of us could ever pretend to. We're
probably all being overly anal about what motor oil to use in our cars,
but I think we do it because we want to protect our investment at all
costs and we think/hope that this is going to help. I spent $30 on 6
quarts of Syntec and a Purolator sythetic Pure One oil filter
yesterday. My friends think I'm nuts. They spend $15 tops for the
whole deal. Why do I do it? Because it makes me feel better. I feel
secure knowing that I put this expen$ive stuff in my engine, having
spent probably 5 grand or so on a rebuild and some go fast goodies.
Maybe everything would be just as good if I used that 80
cents-per-quart recycled oil that I cringe at, but I don't want to find
out. I'm perfectly content blowing $30 every couple months on the
expensive stuff.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6 (fresh oil coming tonight!)
--- "ROBERT L. GANNON" <trsix74@earthlink.net> wrote:
> It is known that the TR6 engine should have 20-50w oil. My mentor and
> all the TR6
> gurus that I know suggest this grade and nothing less. I also tried
> the 10-30 and
> noticed the difference in pressure.
>
> MS6453@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Hi All,
> > I just installed an oil filter adapter and switched to Mobil 1 oil
> 10w-30.
> > The information I've gathered was that Mobil 1 has far superior
> lubricating
> > qualities. As a matter of fact the machine shop that did my block
> said not to
> > put in the synthetic oil until I had 1,000 miles on the motor
> because the
> > rings would not seat. So far the stuff is fine but it's definitely
> thinner
> > and at an idle my oil pressure (hot) went from 25lbs to 20lbs. The
> pressure
> > comes right up off idle but it's a pretty big difference just from
> changing
> > oil.
> > One other note about the oil filter adapter. If any one is
> hesitating don't.
> > Not only does my oil pressure come up faster at start up but just
> the thought
> > of never having to struggle with that cartridge again worth it
> alone!
>
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