Subject: Re: [TR] removing TR6 rear damper rebound stop

From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2026 12:54:24 +0000 (UTC)

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Heat is your friend.=C2=A0 I've easily removed broken exhaust manifold stud=
s (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an oxy/acetylene ri=
g.=C2=A0 Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Vicegrip =C2=AE=C2=A0 =
and at some point it will start to back out.=C2=A0 But, as you say, this is=
 uncomfortably close to the gas tank.=C2=A0 The good news is pulling the ta=
nk from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other cars.
The other option that comes to mind is to drill it out.=C2=A0 I'm trying to=
 remember if there is easy access to that threaded portion from underneath.=
=C2=A0 If so, drilling down the center is paramount so as not to loose any =
threads.=C2=A0 Or expect to Helicoil=C2=A0=C2=AE=C2=A0it afterwards.
Some say that hammering on it may help break loose the rust bond.=C2=A0 Per=
haps a hammer and a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat metal plat=
e in the unscrew direction will break it loose.=C2=A0 Maybe grind a notch i=
n the plate for the chisel to engage.
As always, my advice is try the easy stuff first.
Dave=20

=20

    On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, <[email-masked]=
> wrote:  =20

 I need to replace the damper-arm rebound stops on my TR6 -- on one the=20
rubber has completely crumbled. These are the ones on the frame (not on=20
the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the bottom of its=20
travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty frame means that=20
they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the flat metal=20
disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to apply flame=20
heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any suggestions?
=C2=A0 Lee
** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
rchive

[email-masked]
 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydpf4189e9ayahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div><div dir=
=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Heat is your friend.&nbsp; I've easily remov=
ed broken exhaust manifold studs (we all know how reluctant they are to com=
e out) with an oxy/acetylene rig.&nbsp; Heat it slowly while applying torqu=
e with a Vicegrip <span>=C2=AE</span>&nbsp; and at some point it will start=
 to back out.&nbsp; But, as you say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas=
 tank.&nbsp; The good news is pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy co=
mpared to other cars.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div=
><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">The other option that comes to mind=
 is to drill it out.&nbsp; I'm trying to remember if there is easy access t=
o that threaded portion from underneath.&nbsp; If so, drilling down the cen=
ter is paramount so as not to loose any threads.&nbsp; Or expect to Helicoi=
l&nbsp;<span>=C2=AE</span>&nbsp;it afterwards.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-s=
etdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Some say t=
hat hammering on it may help break loose the rust bond.&nbsp; Perhaps a ham=
mer and a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat metal plate in the u=
nscrew direction will break it loose.&nbsp; Maybe grind a notch in the plat=
e for the chisel to engage.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br=
></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">As always, my advice is try t=
he easy stuff first.</div><div><br></div><div class=3D"ydpf4189e9asignature=
"><div style=3D"color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; f=
ont-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: nor=
mal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style=3D"color: black=
; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: normal; font-str=
etch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-family: Arial, Hel=
vetica, sans-serif;"><div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br></font></div><div><span=
 style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><br></span>=
</div><br></div></div></div></div>
        <div><br></div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp55c90f72yahoo_quoted_1123497396" class=3D"ydp55=
c90f72yahoo_quoted"><div class=3D"ydp55c90f72yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"fon=
t-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div class=3D"ydp55c90f72quoted-text-header">
                        On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, =
 &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                    </div>
                </div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid #cc=
c;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px" class=3D"ydp55c90f72inline_rep=
ly_quote_container" data-split-quote-node=3D"true">
                <div><br></div><div><br></div>
                <div><div dir=3D"ltr">I need to replace the damper-arm rebo=
und stops on my TR6 -- on one the <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">rubber has com=
pletely crumbled. These are the ones on the frame (not on <br></div><div di=
r=3D"ltr">the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the bottom o=
f its <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">travel. But the condition of my rather dir=
ty, rusty frame means that <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">they are frozen in pl=
ace. I'm having trouble gripping the flat metal <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=
disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to apply flame <br></=
div><div dir=3D"ltr">heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any sug=
gestions?<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp; Lee<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">**=
 <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_bla=
nk">[email-masked]</a> **<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div=
 dir=3D"ltr">Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"nof=
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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From: David P <[email-masked]> (ame7.swcp.com [216.184.2.128]); Fri, 13 Feb 2026 07:49:43 -0700 (MST) SPF_PASS version=4.0.0
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2026 07:49:42 -0700

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Induction Innovations is the brand I have. Fabulous tool. DaveP

On 2/13/2026 5:54 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
> Heat is your friend.  I've easily removed broken exhaust manifold 
> studs (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an 
> oxy/acetylene rig.  Heat it slowly while applying torque with a 
> Vicegrip ® and at some point it will start to back out.  But, as you 
> say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas tank.  The good news is 
> pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other cars.
>
> The other option that comes to mind is to drill it out.  I'm trying to 
> remember if there is easy access to that threaded portion from 
> underneath.  If so, drilling down the center is paramount so as not to 
> loose any threads.  Or expect to Helicoil ® it afterwards.
>
> Some say that hammering on it may help break loose the rust bond.  
> Perhaps a hammer and a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat 
> metal plate in the unscrew direction will break it loose.  Maybe grind 
> a notch in the plate for the chisel to engage.
>
> Dave
> On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, 
> <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>
> I need to replace the damper-arm rebound stops on my TR6 -- on one the
> rubber has completely crumbled. These are the ones on the frame (not on
> the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the bottom of its
> travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty frame means that
> they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the flat metal
> disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to apply flame
>   Lee
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
> [email-masked] **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

-- 
DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 ph 505-352-1378  My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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    <p>Induction Innovations is the brand I have. Fabulous tool. DaveP</p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/13/2026 5:54 AM, DAVID MASSEY
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div class="ydpf4189e9ayahoo-style-wrap"
        style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
        <div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Heat is your friend.  I've
            easily removed broken exhaust manifold studs (we all know
            how reluctant they are to come out) with an oxy/acetylene
            rig.  Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Vicegrip <span>®</span> 
            and at some point it will start to back out.  But, as you
            say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas tank.  The good
            news is pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy compared
            to other cars.</div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">The other option that comes
            to mind is to drill it out.  I'm trying to remember if there
            is easy access to that threaded portion from underneath.  If
            so, drilling down the center is paramount so as not to loose
            any threads.  Or expect to Helicoil <span>®</span> it
            afterwards.</div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Some say that hammering on
            it may help break loose the rust bond.  Perhaps a hammer and
            a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat metal plate
            in the unscrew direction will break it loose.  Maybe grind a
            notch in the plate for the chisel to engage.</div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">As always, my advice is try
            the easy stuff first.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div class="ydpf4189e9asignature">
            <div
style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
              <div
style="color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
                <div><font size="4">Dave <br>
                  </font></div>
                <div><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><br>
                  </span></div>
                <br>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <div id="ydp55c90f72yahoo_quoted_1123497396"
        class="ydp55c90f72yahoo_quoted">
        <div class="ydp55c90f72yahoo-style-wrap"
style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
          <div
style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
            <div class="ydp55c90f72quoted-text-header"> On Thursday,
              February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST,
              <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> wrote: </div>
          </div>
          <div
style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid #ccc;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px"
            class="ydp55c90f72inline_reply_quote_container"
            data-split-quote-node="true">
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>
              <div dir="ltr">I need to replace the damper-arm rebound
                stops on my TR6 -- on one the <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">rubber has completely crumbled. These are
                the ones on the frame (not on <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm
                lands at the bottom of its <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">travel. But the condition of my rather
                dirty, rusty frame means that <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">they are frozen in place. I'm having
                trouble gripping the flat metal <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have
                the ability to apply flame <br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">heat - but that's very close to the fuel
                tank. Any suggestions?<br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">  Lee<br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">** <a
                  href="mailto:[email-masked]" rel="nofollow"
                  target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
                  class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>
                **<br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr"><br>
              </div>
              <div dir="ltr">Donate: <a
                  href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel="nofollow"
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      <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 ph 505-352-1378  My World go here: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/">WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2026 23:14:48 -0600

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As Dave reminded, try the easy stuff first. Rather than drag out the 
oxy-acetylene rig, a sharp chisel and a couple of minutes with a 5-lb 
sledge, applied slightly tangentially in the anti-clockwise direction, 
did break loose the offending part:

Followed by completion of the removal with my 50-yr-old Sears 
channellock pliers

A quick application of thread refreshing (there was actually very little 
resistance here)...

And the replacement bump-stop is now in place (incl. a dab of 
anti-seize)!!

This list has been very, very helpful to me since 1991 (yeah, it didn't 
actually exist then, when I first joined we were all together on the 
British-cars list).

Lee

On 2026-02-13 06:54, DAVID MASSEY wrote:

> Heat is your friend.  I've easily removed broken exhaust manifold studs 
> (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an oxy/acetylene 
> rig.  Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Vicegrip (R)  and at 
> some point it will start to back out.  But, as you say, this is 
> uncomfortably close to the gas tank.  The good news is pulling the tank 
> from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other cars.
> 
> loose any threads.  Or expect to Helicoil (R) it afterwards.
> 
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3DUTF-8" /></head><body style=3D'font-size: 10pt; font-family: Verdana,Gen=
eva,sans-serif'>
<p>As Dave reminded, try the easy stuff first. Rather than drag out the oxy=
-acetylene rig, a sharp chisel and a couple of minutes with a 5-lb sledge, =
applied slightly tangentially in the anti-clockwise direction, did break lo=
ose the offending part:</p>
<p><img src=3D"cid:[email-masked]" width=
=3D"393" height=3D"513" /></p>
<p>Followed by completion of the removal with my 50-yr-old Sears channelloc=
k pliers</p>
<p><img src=3D"cid:[email-masked]" width=
=3D"325" height=3D"424" /></p>
<p>A quick application of thread refreshing (there was actually very little=
 resistance here)...</p>
<p><img src=3D"cid:[email-masked]" width=
=3D"375" height=3D"473" /></p>
<p><br /></p>
<p>And the replacement bump-stop is now in place (incl. a dab of anti-seize=
)!!</p>
<p><img src=3D"cid:[email-masked]" width=
=3D"293" height=3D"393" /></p>
<p><br /></p>
<p>This list has been very, very helpful to me since 1991 (yeah, it didn't =
actually exist then, when I first joined we were all together on the Britis=
h-cars list).</p>
<p>Lee</p>
<p><br /></p>
<p id=3D"reply-intro">On 2026-02-13 06:54, DAVID MASSEY wrote:</p>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding: 0 0.4em; border-left: #1010ff 2=
px solid; margin: 0">
<div id=3D"replybody1">
<div class=3D"v1ydpf4189e9ayahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family: Arial, H=
elvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Heat is your friend.&nbsp; I've easily removed broken exha=
ust manifold studs (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an=
 oxy/acetylene rig.&nbsp; Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Viceg=
rip <span>&reg;</span>&nbsp; and at some point it will start to back out.&n=
bsp; But, as you say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas tank.&nbsp; Th=
e good news is pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other=
 cars.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">The other option that comes to mind is to drill it out.&nb=
sp; I'm trying to remember if there is easy access to that threaded portion=
 from underneath.&nbsp; If so, drilling down the center is paramount so as =
not to loose any threads.&nbsp; Or expect to Helicoil&nbsp;<span>&reg;</spa=
n>&nbsp;it afterwards.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Some say that hammering on it may help break loose the rus=
t bond.&nbsp; Perhaps a hammer and a good chisel applied tangentially to th=
e flat metal plate in the unscrew direction will break it loose.&nbsp; Mayb=
e grind a notch in the plate for the chisel to engage.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">As always, my advice is try the easy stuff first.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"v1ydpf4189e9asignature">
<div style=3D"color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; fon=
t-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: norma=
l; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div style=3D"color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; fon=
t-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: norma=
l; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div><span style=3D"font-size: large;">Dave <br /></span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-size: 10.0pt; font-family: sans-serif; color: blac=
k;">&nbsp;</span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"v1ydp55c90f72yahoo_quoted_1123497396" class=3D"v1ydp55c90f72yaho=
o_quoted">
<div class=3D"v1ydp55c90f72yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family: Arial, H=
elvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">
<div style=3D"font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; =
font-size: 13px; color: #26282a;">
<div class=3D"v1ydp55c90f72quoted-text-header">On Thursday, February 12, 20=
26 at 12:21:08 PM CST, &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"v1ydp55c90f72inline_reply_quote_container" style=3D"font-fami=
ly: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; color:=
 #26282a; border-left: 1px solid #ccc; padding-left: 8px; margin: 0px 0px 0=
px 8px;">
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">I need to replace the damper-arm rebound stops on my TR6 -=
- on one the </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">rubber has completely crumbled. These are the ones on the =
frame (not on </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the b=
ottom of its </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty frame =
means that </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the =
flat metal </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to a=
pply flame </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any suggest=
ions?</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp; Lee</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>

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---

From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2026 12:03:00 +0000 (UTC)

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My next bit of advice is to apply some anti seize on the threads so that th=
e next guy, 60 years from now, won't have the same issue.=C2=A0 (Actually, =
judging from the quality of some of the rubber parts we've seen, you may be=
 replacing this one in the not-to-distant future.)=C2=A0 =C2=A0
Dave=20

=20

    On Sunday, February 15, 2026 at 11:24:55 PM CST, [email-masked] <l=
[email-masked]> wrote:  =20

=20
As Dave reminded, try the easy stuff first. Rather than drag out the oxy-ac=
etylene rig, a sharp chisel and a couple of minutes with a 5-lb sledge, app=
lied slightly tangentially in the anti-clockwise direction, did break loose=
 the offending part:

Followed by completion of the removal with my 50-yr-old Sears channellock p=
liers

A quick application of thread refreshing (there was actually very little re=
sistance here)...

And the replacement bump-stop is now in place (incl. a dab of anti-seize)!!

This list has been very, very helpful to me since 1991 (yeah, it didn't act=
ually exist then, when I first joined we were all together on the British-c=
ars list).

Lee

Heat is your friend.=C2=A0 I've easily removed broken exhaust manifold stud=
s (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an oxy/acetylene ri=
g.=C2=A0 Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Vicegrip =C2=AE=C2=A0 =
and at some point it will start to back out.=C2=A0 But, as you say, this is=
 uncomfortably close to the gas tank.=C2=A0 The good news is pulling the ta=
nk from a TR6 is rather easy compared to other cars.=C2=A0The other option =
that comes to mind is to drill it out.=C2=A0 I'm trying to remember if ther=
e is easy access to that threaded portion from underneath.=C2=A0 If so, dri=
lling down the center is paramount so as not to loose any threads.=C2=A0 Or=
 expect to Helicoil=C2=A0=C2=AE=C2=A0it afterwards.=C2=A0Some say that hamm=
ering on it may help break loose the rust bond.=C2=A0 Perhaps a hammer and =
a good chisel applied tangentially to the flat metal plate in the unscrew d=
irection will break it loose.=C2=A0 Maybe grind a notch in the plate for th=
e chisel to engage.=C2=A0As always, my advice is try the easy stuff first.=
=C2=A0Dave=20
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0On Thursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, <lee@a=
utomate-it.com> wrote:=C2=A0=C2=A0I need to replace the damper-arm rebound =
stops on my TR6 -- on one the rubber has completely crumbled. These are the=
 ones on the frame (not on the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm land=
s at the bottom of its travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty =
frame means that they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the =
flat metal disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to apply f=
lame heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any suggestions?=C2=A0 =
Lee
** [email-masked] **

[email-masked]
 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp62295e80yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div><div><im=
g title=3D"Emoji" alt=3D"Emoji" class=3D"yahoo-emoji-wrapper" height=3D"16"=
 src=3D"https://s.yimg.com/nq/yemoji_assets/latest/yemoji_assets/1f44d.png"=
 width=3D"16" style=3D"padding: 0px 2px; vertical-align: middle;" data-inli=
neimagemanipulating=3D"true"><br></div><div><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data=
-setdir=3D"false">My next bit of advice is to apply some anti seize on the =
threads so that the next guy, 60 years from now, won't have the same issue.=
&nbsp; (Actually, judging from the quality of some of the rubber parts we'v=
e seen, you may be replacing this one in the not-to-distant future.)&nbsp; =
<img title=3D"Emoji" alt=3D"Emoji" class=3D"yahoo-emoji-wrapper" height=3D"=
16" src=3D"https://s.yimg.com/nq/yemoji_assets/latest/yemoji_assets/1f641.p=
ng" width=3D"16" style=3D"padding: 0px 2px; vertical-align: middle;" data-i=
nlineimagemanipulating=3D"true">&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div class=3D"yd=
p62295e80signature"><div style=3D"color: black; font-style: normal; font-si=
ze-adjust: none; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt=
; line-height: normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div sty=
le=3D"color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight=
: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-=
family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br></fon=
t></div><div><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:b=
lack;"><br></span></div><br></div></div></div></div>
        <div><br></div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyahoo_quoted_1776490667" class=3D"ydp55=
a8fe1cyahoo_quoted"><div class=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"fon=
t-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div class=3D"ydp55a8fe1cquoted-text-header">
                        On Sunday, February 15, 2026 at 11:24:55 PM CST, le=
[email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                    </div>
                </div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid #cc=
c;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px" class=3D"ydp55a8fe1cinline_rep=
ly_quote_container" data-split-quote-node=3D"true">
                <div><br></div><div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922"><div>
<p>As Dave reminded, try the easy stuff first. Rather than drag out the oxy=
-acetylene rig, a sharp chisel and a couple of minutes with a 5-lb sledge, =
applied slightly tangentially in the anti-clockwise direction, did break lo=
ose the offending part:</p>
<p><img src=3D"cid:JUsRojBjh0KAajeZk6Wy" style=3D"width: 393px; max-width: =
631px;"></p>
<p>Followed by completion of the removal with my 50-yr-old Sears channelloc=
k pliers</p>
<p><img src=3D"cid:hyFSIPY8Lhxh0V8n3k1h" data-inlineimagemanipulating=3D"tr=
ue" style=3D"width: 325px; max-width: 800px;"></p>
<p>A quick application of thread refreshing (there was actually very little=
 resistance here)...</p>
<p><img src=3D"cid:xKEEiRuM6s9EH3aGKaaK" data-inlineimagemanipulating=3D"tr=
ue" style=3D"width: 375px; max-width: 747px;"></p>
<p><br clear=3D"none"></p>
<p>And the replacement bump-stop is now in place (incl. a dab of anti-seize=
)!!</p>
<p><img src=3D"cid:H0L28kwc6UrtxjzWYDuf" data-inlineimagemanipulating=3D"tr=
ue" style=3D"width: 293px; max-width: 680px;"></p>
<p><br clear=3D"none"></p>
<p>This list has been very, very helpful to me since 1991 (yeah, it didn't =
actually exist then, when I first joined we were all together on the Britis=
h-cars list).</p>
<p>Lee</p>
<p><br clear=3D"none"></p>
<div id=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922yqtfd59993" class=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv00182=
37922yqt5095004653"><p id=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922reply-intro">On 2026-0=
2-13 06:54, DAVID MASSEY wrote:</p>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding:0 0.4em;border-left:#1010ff 2px =
solid;margin:0;">
<div id=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922replybody1">
<div style=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" cla=
ss=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922v1ydpf4189e9ayahoo-style-wrap">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Heat is your friend.&nbsp; I've easily removed broken exha=
ust manifold studs (we all know how reluctant they are to come out) with an=
 oxy/acetylene rig.&nbsp; Heat it slowly while applying torque with a Viceg=
rip <span>=C2=AE</span>&nbsp; and at some point it will start to back out.&=
nbsp; But, as you say, this is uncomfortably close to the gas tank.&nbsp; T=
he good news is pulling the tank from a TR6 is rather easy compared to othe=
r cars.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">The other option that comes to mind is to drill it out.&nb=
sp; I'm trying to remember if there is easy access to that threaded portion=
 from underneath.&nbsp; If so, drilling down the center is paramount so as =
not to loose any threads.&nbsp; Or expect to Helicoil&nbsp;<span>=C2=AE</sp=
an>&nbsp;it afterwards.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Some say that hammering on it may help break loose the rus=
t bond.&nbsp; Perhaps a hammer and a good chisel applied tangentially to th=
e flat metal plate in the unscrew direction will break it loose.&nbsp; Mayb=
e grind a notch in the plate for the chisel to engage.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">As always, my advice is try the easy stuff first.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922v1ydpf4189e9asignature">
<div style=3D"color:black;font-style:normal;font-size-adjust:none;font-weig=
ht:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:12pt;line-height:normal;font-family=
:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div style=3D"color:black;font-style:normal;font-size-adjust:none;font-weig=
ht:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:12pt;line-height:normal;font-family=
:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div><span style=3D"font-size:large;">Dave <br clear=3D"none"></span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;">&=
nbsp;</span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922v1ydp55c90f72yahoo_quoted_1123497396" cl=
ass=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922v1ydp55c90f72yahoo_quoted">
<div style=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" cla=
ss=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922v1ydp55c90f72yahoo-style-wrap">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
<div class=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922v1ydp55c90f72quoted-text-header">On T=
hursday, February 12, 2026 at 12:21:08 PM CST, &lt;[email-masked]&gt; =
wrote:</div>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left:1px solid #ccc;padding-left:8px;marg=
in:0px 0px 0px 8px;" class=3D"ydp55a8fe1cyiv0018237922v1ydp55c90f72inline_r=
eply_quote_container">
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">I need to replace the damper-arm rebound stops on my TR6 -=
- on one the </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">rubber has completely crumbled. These are the ones on the =
frame (not on </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">the trailing arm) onto which the damper arm lands at the b=
ottom of its </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">travel. But the condition of my rather dirty, rusty frame =
means that </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">they are frozen in place. I'm having trouble gripping the =
flat metal </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">disk. I've soaked with PB Blaster. I have the ability to a=
pply flame </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">heat - but that's very close to the fuel tank. Any suggest=
ions?</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">&nbsp; Lee</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>

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