Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

From: "Tim Gaines" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2025 20:37:00 +0000

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I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 
1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I 
decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I 
saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such 
luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear 
end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near 
where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check 
with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with 
them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old 
lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put 
too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may 
be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just 
how a fix should be attempted.

That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the 
cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, 
and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I 
really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking 
that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really 
something that can be fixed that way?

-- 
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<body>I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the=
 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided=
 to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that =
the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I =
finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed=
 the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after mar=
ket shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts c=
atalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering =
if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a coup=
le of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame m=
ember. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone=
 through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.<div><br /=
></div><div>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side=
 of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few ye=
ars, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I=
 really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that=
 my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really someth=
ing that can be fixed that way?<br /><div><br /></div><div>=C2=A0<div><br /=
></div><div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div =
id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br /><table style=3D"border-to=
p: 1px solid #D3D4DE;"><tr><td style=3D"width: 55px; padding-top: 13px;"><a=
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mg src=3D"https://s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-=
round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif" alt=3D"" width=3D"46" height=3D"29"=
 style=3D"width: 46px; height: 29px;"/></a></td><td style=3D"width: 470px; =
padding-top: 12px; color: #41424e; font-size: 13px; font-family: Arial, Hel=
vetica, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;">Virus-free.<a href=3D"https://www.a=
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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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---

From: Brian Kemp <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2025 22:05:09 +0000

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I too had frame cracks from the tube shock brackets I installed.  I had a =
local welder come out and weld up the cracks and add differential =
reinforcement brackets.  I had done minor welding, but didn't have a welder=
 or adequate power in my apartment garage.  It was well worth paying =
someone to weld in an overhead location.  I was nearby with a good fire =
extinguisher and a garden hose as I to was concerned about the welding near=
 the gas can.

To prevent the problem in the future I added diagonal braces down to the =
frame behind the shock brackets and a cross brace between the two shock =
brackets.

For anyone installing the tube shock conversion brackets that just bolt to =
with the original lever shock bolts, test the range of motion without the =
spring installed.  The trailing arm goes through an angular motion that =
puts a sideways force on the frame cross member that it wasn't designed for=
. =20

I remade the brackets to move the top of the shock about 1.5 inches for a =
better range of motion.  If I were to go back in time, I would just have =
the heavy duty rebuild of the original lever shocks.

Brian=20

-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Foster <[email-masked]>
Sent: Oct 8, 2025 2:40 PM
To: Tim Gaines <[email-masked]>, Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off =
the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever =
arm schocks.
=20
Stan
=20
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
To: Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 =
TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to =
sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the =
spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I =
finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed=
 the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after =
market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss =
parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm =
wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I =
installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure=
 on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out =
there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be =
attempted.
=20

That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the =
cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and=
 I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really =
don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my =
local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something =
that can be fixed that way?
=20

=20
=20

=20
=20

=20

=20
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<div style=3D"color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:12p=
t"><p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">I too had frame cracks =
from the tube shock brackets I installed.&nbsp; I had a local welder come =
out and weld up the cracks and add differential reinforcement brackets.=
&nbsp; I had done minor welding, but didn't have a welder or adequate power=
 in my apartment garage.&nbsp; It was well worth paying someone to weld in =
an overhead location.&nbsp; I was nearby with a good fire extinguisher and =
a garden hose as I to was concerned about the welding near the gas can.=
</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">To prevent the problem in =
the future I added diagonal braces down to the frame behind the shock =
brackets and a cross brace between the two shock brackets.</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">For anyone installing the =
tube shock conversion brackets that just bolt to with the original lever =
shock bolts, test the range of motion without the spring installed.&nbsp; =
The trailing arm goes through an angular motion that puts a sideways force =
on the frame cross member that it wasn't designed for.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">I remade the brackets to =
move the top of the shock about 1.5 inches for a better range of motion.=
&nbsp; If I were to go back in time, I would just have the heavy duty =
rebuild of the original lever shocks.</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">Brian&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">&nbsp;</p>
</div>
<div class=3D"elnk-inline-message-container" style=3D"border-left: 1px =
solid #aaa; box-sizing: border-box; padding: 10px 0 10px 15px; margin: =
0;">
<p>-----Original Message-----<br>From: Stan Foster &lt;stan@redtr6.=
com&gt;<br>Sent: Oct 8, 2025 2:40 PM<br>To: Tim Gaines &lt;mtgaines@presby.=
edu&gt;, Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 =
rear shock mount break</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">&nbsp;</p>
<!-- [if !mso]><style>v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
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<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">I had those =
brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off the frame. I =
fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever arm schocks.=
</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.=
0pt;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">Stan</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.=
0pt;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border: none; border-top: solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt; padding: 3.0pt=
 0in 0in 0in;">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><strong><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt; =
font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;">From:</span></strong><span =
style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt; font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;"> Triumphs =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <strong>On Behalf Of </strong>Tim =
Gaines<br><strong>Sent:</strong> Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 =
PM<br><strong>To:</strong> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked].=
net&gt;<br><strong>Subject:</strong> [TR] TR6 rear shock mount =
break</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',=
sans-serif;">I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me=
 in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I =
decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I =
saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck=
. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end =
and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where =
the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the=
 Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, =
I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I =
installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure=
 on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out =
there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be =
attempted.</span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',=
sans-serif;">&nbsp;</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',=
sans-serif;">That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back =
side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last =
few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a =
car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am =
thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this =
really something that can be fixed that way?</span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',=
sans-serif;">&nbsp;</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',=
sans-serif;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',=
sans-serif;">&nbsp;</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',=
sans-serif;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',=
sans-serif;">&nbsp;</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',=
sans-serif;">&nbsp;</span></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.=
0;">&nbsp;</p>
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---

From: "Tim Gaines" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2025 03:20:50 +0000

--===============8047541254662645652==
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Thanks Brian. I think I will try to go this route. I don't suppose you 
have any photos of your setup do you?

Tim

------ Original Message ------
>From "Brian Kemp" <[email-masked]>
To "Tim Gaines" <[email-masked]>; "Triumphs" 
<[email-masked]>
Date 10/8/2025 6:05:09 PM
Subject Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

>I too had frame cracks from the tube shock brackets I installed.  I had 
>a local welder come out and weld up the cracks and add differential 
>reinforcement brackets.  I had done minor welding, but didn't have a 
>welder or adequate power in my apartment garage.  It was well worth 
>paying someone to weld in an overhead location.  I was nearby with a 
>good fire extinguisher and a garden hose as I to was concerned about 
>the welding near the gas can.
>
>
>
>To prevent the problem in the future I added diagonal braces down to 
>the frame behind the shock brackets and a cross brace between the two 
>shock brackets.
>
>
>
>For anyone installing the tube shock conversion brackets that just bolt 
>to with the original lever shock bolts, test the range of motion 
>without the spring installed.  The trailing arm goes through an angular 
>motion that puts a sideways force on the frame cross member that it 
>wasn't designed for.
>
>
>
>I remade the brackets to move the top of the shock about 1.5 inches for 
>a better range of motion.  If I were to go back in time, I would just 
>have the heavy duty rebuild of the original lever shocks.
>
>
>
>Brian
>
>
>
>I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn 
>off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back 
>to lever arm schocks.
>
>
>
>Stan
>
>
>
>decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when 
>I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no 
>such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the 
>left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had 
>cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did 
>a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not 
>available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement 
>for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad 
>idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me 
>that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and 
>can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>
>
>
>that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this 
>really something that can be fixed that way?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
><https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_=
campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient>
>
>Virus-free.www.avast.com 
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<html><head><style id=3D"css_styles" type=3D"text/css"><!--blockquote.cite=
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x; border-left: 1px solid #cccccc }
blockquote.cite2 {margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 0px; padding-left: 10px;=
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a img { border: 0px; }
li[style=3D'text-align: center;'], li[style=3D'text-align: center; '], li[s=
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le-position: inside;}
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laceholder:before{color:gray; content: '{{ ';} ._em_placeholder:after{color=
:gray; content: ' }}';}
--></style></head><body><div>Thanks Brian. I think I will try to go this ro=
ute. I don't suppose you have any photos of your setup do you?</div><div><b=
r /></div><div>Tim</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "Brian Kemp" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">bk13@earth=
link.net</a>&gt;</div>
<div>To "Tim Gaines" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">mtgaines@pr=
esby.edu</a>&gt;; "Triumphs" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt;</div>
<div>Date 10/8/2025 6:05:09 PM</div>
<div>Subject Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</div></div><div x-em-quote=
=3D""><br /></div>
<div id=3D"x4ad8f9282c2e4ea"><blockquote cite=3D"5f59adc0-4967-af6d-d6e7-ef=
[email-masked]" type=3D"cite" class=3D"cite2">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:12p=
t"><p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">I too had frame cracks=
 from the tube shock brackets I installed.=C2=A0 I had a local welder come o=
ut and weld up the cracks and add differential reinforcement brackets.=C2=
=A0 I had done minor welding, but didn't have a welder or adequate power in =
my apartment garage.=C2=A0 It was well worth paying someone to weld in an=
 overhead location.=C2=A0 I was nearby with a good fire extinguisher and a g=
arden hose as I to was concerned about the welding near the gas can.</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">=C2=A0</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">To prevent the problem in=
 the future I added diagonal braces down to the frame behind the shock brack=
ets and a cross brace between the two shock brackets.</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">=C2=A0</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">For anyone installing the=
 tube shock conversion brackets that just bolt to with the original lever sh=
ock bolts, test the range of motion without the spring installed.=C2=A0 The =
trailing arm goes through an angular motion that puts a sideways force on=
 the frame cross member that it wasn't designed for.=C2=A0=C2=A0</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">=C2=A0</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">I remade the brackets to m=
ove the top of the shock about 1.5 inches for a better range of motion.=C2=
=A0 If I were to go back in time, I would just have the heavy duty rebuild=
 of the original lever shocks.</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">=C2=A0</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">Brian=C2=A0</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">=C2=A0</p>
</div>
<div class=3D"elnk-inline-message-container" style=3D"border-left: 1px soli=
d #aaa; box-sizing: border-box; padding: 10px 0 10px 15px; margin: 0;">
<p>-----Original Message-----<br />From: Stan Foster &lt;[email-masked]&gt=
;<br />Sent: Oct 8, 2025 2:40 PM<br />To: Tim Gaines &lt;[email-masked]=
u&gt;, Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br />Subject: Re: [TR] TR6=
 rear shock mount break</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">=C2=A0</p>
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<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">I had those brack=
ets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off the frame. I fitte=
d the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever arm schocks.</span=
></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">=C2=A0</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">Stan</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt;">=C2=A0</span></p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border: none; border-top: solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt; padding: 3.0pt =
0in 0in 0in;">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><strong><span style=3D"font-size: 11.0pt; font-famil=
y: 'Calibri',sans-serif;">From:</span></strong><span style=3D"font-size: 11=
.0pt; font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;"> Triumphs &lt;triumphs-bounces@au=
tox.team.net&gt; <strong>On Behalf Of </strong>Tim Gaines<br /><strong>Sent=
:</strong> Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM<br /><strong>To:</strong> Tri=
umphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br /><strong>Subject:</strong> [TR] T=
R6 rear shock mount break</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',sans-serif;">=
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974=
 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to so=
rt it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the sp=
are tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finall=
y gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the t=
ire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market sh=
ock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog =
and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if thi=
s shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of=
 decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. =
It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone throu=
gh this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.</span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',sans-serif;">=
=C2=A0</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',sans-serif;">=
That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cros=
s member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I h=
ave a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don'=
t like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pr=
o welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can =
be fixed that way?</span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',sans-serif;">=
=C2=A0</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',sans-serif;">=
=C2=A0</span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',sans-serif;">=
=C2=A0</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',sans-serif;">=
=C2=A0</span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',sans-serif;">=
=C2=A0</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',sans-serif;">=
=C2=A0</span></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family: 'Segoe UI',sans-serif;">=
=C2=A0</span></p>
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<p style=3D"margin: 0.1rem 0; line-height: 1.0;">=C2=A0</p></blockquote></d=
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