Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

From: Stan Foster <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2025 21:37:30 +0000

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Tim Gaines" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2025 03:18:22 +0000

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Thanks Stan. That RATCO replacement cross member looks great, but it is 
a big undertaking. Since mine hasn't torn off yet I may try first to get 
it braced with some support brackets, similar to what I did years ago 
with the diff mounts.

Tim

------ Original Message ------
>From "Stan Foster" <[email-masked]>
To "Tim Gaines" <[email-masked]>; "Triumphs" 
<[email-masked]>
Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM
Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

>I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn 
>off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back 
>to lever arm schocks.
>
>
>
>Stan
>
>
>
>From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Tim 
>Gaines
>Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
>To: Triumphs <[email-masked]>
>Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>
>
>
>I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 
>1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I 
>decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when 
>I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no 
>such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the 
>left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had 
>cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did 
>a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not 
>available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement 
>for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad 
>idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me 
>that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and 
>can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>
>
>
>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the 
>cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, 
>and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I 
>really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking 
>that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this 
>really something that can be fixed that way?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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<body><div>Thanks Stan. That RATCO replacement cross member looks great, bu=
t it is a big undertaking. Since mine hasn't torn off yet I may try first t=
o get it braced with some support brackets, similar to what I did years ago =
with the diff mounts.=C2=A0</div><div><br /></div><div>Tim</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "Stan Foster" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">stan@redtr6.=
com</a>&gt;</div>
<div>To "Tim Gaines" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">mtgaines@pr=
esby.edu</a>&gt;; "Triumphs" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt;</div>
<div>Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM</div>
<div>Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</div></div><div x-em-quote=
=3D""><br /></div>
<div id=3D"x6b5c2498dfff4b2" style=3D"word-wrap:break-word"><blockquote cit=
e=3D"[email-masked]=
look.com" type=3D"cite" class=3D"cite2">

<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">I had those bracket=
s and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off the frame. I fitted=
 the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever arm schocks.<o:p xml=
ns:o=3D"#unknown"></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#un=
known">=C2=A0</o:p></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">Stan<o:p xmlns:o=3D=
"#unknown"></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#un=
known">=C2=A0</o:p></span></p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in=
 0in 0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot=
;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif">From:</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;=
font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif"> Triumphs &lt;triumphs-bounces@=
autox.team.net&gt;
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Tim Gaines<br />
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM<br />
<b>To:</b> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br />
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break<o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown"></=
o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown">=C2=A0</o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif">I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in t=
he 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decid=
ed to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem
 quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose,=
 but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the=
 left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked =
near where the after market shock
 mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog an=
d that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this s=
hock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of dec=
ades ago) was a bad idea and put
 too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be=
 some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a=
 fix should be attempted.
<o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown"></o:p></span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown">=C2=A0</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif">That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of=
 the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, =
and I have a mig welder, but I have never done
 anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank ei=
ther. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, b=
ut is this really something that can be fixed that way?
<o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown"></o:p></span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown">=C2=A0</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif">=C2=A0<o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown"></o:p></span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown">=C2=A0</o:p></span></p>
</div>
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<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
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From: "Gene Garrison" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2025 12:25:56 -0500

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Ouch!

Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to rec=
ommend what I (eventually) did.

Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the re=
ar shocks not "shocking".  I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate=
 to never see any cracks.  But it always worried me.  Then, a few years =
back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever sho=
cks (Apple Hydraulics?  Could look it up when I get home.)  And I figure=
d I'd give it a try.  And I'm very, very happy with the results.

Just a thought for when you get to that point.

- GeneG

On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the =
1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decid=
ed to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw =
that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck.=
 When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end =
and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where=
 the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with=
 the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them=
. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever sh=
ock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too muc=
h pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some =
folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fi=
x should be attempted.
>=20
> That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the=
 cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years,=
 and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I =
really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking th=
at my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really s=
omething that can be fixed that way?
>=20
> =20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
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tm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient>
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> *Attachments:*
>  =E2=80=A2 TR6 broken support.JPG

--19e43cfb7a8e47a49c83fa4f395be5ab
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<!DOCTYPE html><html><head><title></title><style type=3D"text/css">#qt a=
 img{border-top-width:0px;border-top-style:none;border-top-color:current=
color;border-right-width:0px;border-right-style:none;border-right-color:=
currentcolor;border-bottom-width:0px;border-bottom-style:none;border-bot=
tom-color:currentcolor;border-left-width:0px;border-left-style:none;bord=
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ign: right; "]{list-style-position:inside;}=0A#qt {font-family:"Segoe UI=
";font-size:12pt;}=0A#qt .qt-_em_placeholder::after,#qt .qt-_em_placehol=
der::before{color:gray;}=0A=0A</style></head><body><div>Ouch!</div><div>=
<br></div><div>Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, bu=
t I want to recommend what I (eventually) did.</div><div><br></div><div>=
Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the re=
ar shocks not "shocking".&nbsp; I put on a similar adapter, and was fort=
unate to never see any cracks.&nbsp; But it always worried me.&nbsp; The=
n, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuil=
d the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?&nbsp; Could look it up when I get =
home.)&nbsp; And I figured I'd give it a try.&nbsp; And I'm very, very h=
appy with the results.</div><div><br></div><div>Just a thought for when =
you get to that point.</div><div><br></div><div>- GeneG</div><div><br></=
div><div>On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:</div><blockq=
uote type=3D"cite" id=3D"qt" style=3D""><div>I have been hearing a slapp=
ing sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter eve=
n slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought =
I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing =
hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on si=
mple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw t=
hat the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount=
 adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and t=
hat cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this s=
hock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of =
decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame memb=
er. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone=
 through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.</div><=
div><br></div><div><div>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only o=
n the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills =
in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done an=
ything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank ei=
ther. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on=
, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?</div><div><br=
></div><div><div>&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div><div><br></div><div><br=
></div><div><br></div></div></div></div><div id=3D"qt-DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB=
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ing-top:12px;color:rgb(65, 66, 78);font-size:13px;font-family:Arial, Hel=
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iv><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><b>Attachments:</b></div><ul><li>T=
R6 broken support.JPG</li></ul></blockquote><div><br></div></body></html=
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From: DAVE HOGYE <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2025 12:34:47 -0700 (PDT)

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Peter Caldwell at World Wide Imports can provide replacement lever shocks in different performance levels.  Standard, heavy duty and adjustable.  Typically he would like your old shocks as cores.  He would evaluate the original shocks and adjust the core cost if they are rebuildable or not.  Sometimes the original shock mounting bolts would loosen and wear the mounting holes in the main casting, rendering them not rebuildable. 
I have the adjustable shocks on my TR3 and they are great.  It's just a bleed valve plumbed to the piston bores that controls the flow between the bores.  Reducing or increasing the flow to slow or speed the action. 
 
Dave H. 

> On 10/09/2025 10:25 AM PDT Gene Garrison <[email-masked]> wrote:
>  
>  
> Ouch!
>  
> Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually) did.
>  
> Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".  I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see any cracks.  But it always worried me.  Then, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?  Could look it up when I get home.)  And I figured I'd give it a try.  And I'm very, very happy with the results.
>  
> > I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
> >  
> > That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
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  <div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;">
   <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">Peter Caldwell at World Wide Imports can provide replacement lever shocks in different performance levels.&nbsp; Standard, heavy duty and adjustable.&nbsp; Typically he would like your old shocks as cores.&nbsp; He would evaluate the original shocks and adjust the core cost if they are rebuildable or not.&nbsp; Sometimes the original shock mounting bolts would loosen and wear the mounting holes in the main casting, rendering them not rebuildable.&nbsp;</span>
  </div> 
  <div class="default-style" style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;">
   <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">I have the adjustable shocks on my TR3 and they are great.&nbsp; It's just a bleed valve plumbed to the piston bores that controls the flow between the bores.&nbsp; Reducing or increasing the flow to slow or speed the action.&nbsp;</span>
  </div> 
  <div class="default-style" style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;">
   &nbsp;
  </div> 
  <div class="default-style" style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;">
   <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">Dave H.&nbsp;</span>
  </div> 
  <blockquote type="cite"> 
   <div>
    On 10/09/2025 10:25 AM PDT Gene Garrison &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
   </div> 
   <div>
    &nbsp;
   </div> 
   <div>
    &nbsp;
   </div> 
   <div>
    Ouch!
   </div> 
   <div>
    &nbsp;
   </div> 
   <div>
    Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually) did.
   </div> 
   <div>
    &nbsp;
   </div> 
   <div>
    Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".&nbsp; I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see any cracks.&nbsp; But it always worried me.&nbsp; Then, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?&nbsp; Could look it up when I get home.)&nbsp; And I figured I'd give it a try.&nbsp; And I'm very, very happy with the results.
   </div> 
   <div>
    &nbsp;
   </div> 
   <div>
    Just a thought for when you get to that point.
   </div> 
   <div>
    &nbsp;
   </div> 
   <div>
    - GeneG
   </div> 
   <div>
    &nbsp;
   </div> 
   <div>
    On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
   </div> 
   <blockquote type="cite"> 
    <div>
     I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
    </div> 
    <div>
     &nbsp;
    </div> 
    <div> 
     <div>
      That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?
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From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2025 20:29:33 +0000 (UTC)

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I just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison, =
Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the shocks. You can specify if you w=
ant the original dampening, or several levels of higher dampening. Plus, th=
ey always machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then install a=
 lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I sent them my shocks and=
 it took two weeks to get them back. I think that I paid $130 per shock.=C2=
=A0
=C2=A0AlexL=C2=A0=C2=A0
In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, gene@garriso=
n-grafixx.com writes:=C2=A0
Ouch!=C2=A0Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I wan=
t to recommend what I (eventually) did.=C2=A0Back in the 80s, I had a probl=
em with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".=C2=A0 I=
 put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see any cracks.=C2=A0=
 But it always worried me.=C2=A0 Then, a few years back, I started hearing =
about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?=C2=
=A0 Could look it up when I get home.)=C2=A0 And I figured I'd give it a tr=
y.=C2=A0 And I'm very, very happy with the results.=C2=A0Just a thought for=
 when you get to that point.=C2=A0- GeneG=C2=A0On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37=
 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 =
TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to so=
rt it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the sp=
are tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finall=
y gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the t=
ire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market sh=
ock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog=
 and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if thi=
s shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of =
decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member.=
 It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone throu=
gh this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.=C2=A0That crack=
 shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. =
I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig =
welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the=
 proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder w=
ould be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed =
that way?=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0
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<div>
<div class="userEdit" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;">I just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the shocks. You can specify if you want the original dampening, or several levels of higher dampening. Plus, they always machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then install a lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them back. I think that I paid $130 per shock.&nbsp;<br></span></div>
<div class="userEdit" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">&nbsp;</div>
<div class="userEdit" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;">AlexL</span></div>
<div class="userEdit" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">&nbsp;</div>
<div class="userEdit" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">&nbsp;</div>
<br>In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] writes:
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div class="quotedReply">
<blockquote style="padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; border-left: blue 2px solid;">
<div id="yiv4969733073">
<div>
<div>Ouch!</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually) did.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".&nbsp; I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see any cracks.&nbsp; But it always worried me.&nbsp; Then, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?&nbsp; Could look it up when I get home.)&nbsp; And I figured I'd give it a try.&nbsp; And I'm very, very happy with the results.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Just a thought for when you get to that point.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>- GeneG</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div id="yiv4969733073yqtfd14763" class="yiv4969733073yqt9886534496">
<div>On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:</div>
<blockquote id="yiv4969733073qt">
<div>I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<div>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>
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<li>TR6 broken support.JPG</li>
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From: dave northrup <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2025 21:08:35 +0000

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From: David P <[email-masked]> (ame8.swcp.com [216.184.2.128]); Thu, 09 Oct 2025 18:07:13 -0600 (MDT) SPF_PASS, T_KAM_HTML_FONT_INVALID version=4.0.0
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Dang, now I have to check mine for cracks..

On 10/9/2025 2:29 PM, [email-masked] wrote:
> I just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of 
> Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the shocks. You can 
> specify if you want the original dampening, or several levels of 
> higher dampening. Plus, they always machine the opening for the shock 
> lever shaft, and then install a lip seal that will keep the shocks 
> from leaking. I sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them 
> back. I think that I paid $130 per shock.
> AlexL
>
> In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> [email-masked] writes:
>
>     Ouch!
>     Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to
>     the rear shocks not "shocking".  I put on a similar adapter, and
>     was fortunate to never see any cracks.  But it always worried me. 
>     Then, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that
>     would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics? Could look it up
>     when I get home.)  And I figured I'd give it a try.  And I'm very,
>     very happy with the results.
>         I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me
>         in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement,
>         so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the
>         problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook
>         bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up
>         on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed
>         the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where
>         the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick
>         check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not
>         available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount
>         replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of
>         decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that
>         frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out
>         there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a
>         fix should be attempted.
>         That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back
>         side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills
>         in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have
>         never done anything under a car. I really don't like the
>         proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local
>         pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really
>         something that can be fixed that way?
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DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 ph 505-352-1378  My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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    <p>Dang, now I have to check mine for cracks..</p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/9/2025 2:29 PM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div>
        <div class="userEdit"
style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span
style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;">I
            just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts
            of Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the
            shocks. You can specify if you want the original dampening,
            or several levels of higher dampening. Plus, they always
            machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then
            install a lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I
            sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them back.
            I think that I paid $130 per shock. <br>
          </span></div>
        <div class="userEdit"
style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"> </div>
        <div class="userEdit"
style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span
style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;">AlexL</span></div>
        <div class="userEdit"
style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"> </div>
        <div class="userEdit"
style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"> </div>
        <br>
        In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
        <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> writes:
        <div> </div>
        <div class="quotedReply">
          <blockquote
style="padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; border-left: blue 2px solid;">
            <div id="yiv4969733073">
              <div>
                <div>Ouch!</div>
                <div> </div>
                <div>Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding
                  question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually)
                  did.</div>
                <div> </div>
                <div>Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I
                  tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".  I put
                  on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see
                  any cracks.  But it always worried me.  Then, a few
                  years back, I started hearing about an outfit that
                  would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics? 
                  Could look it up when I get home.)  And I figured I'd
                  give it a try.  And I'm very, very happy with the
                  results.</div>
                <div> </div>
                <div>Just a thought for when you get to that point.</div>
                <div> </div>
                <div>- GeneG</div>
                <div> </div>
                <div id="yiv4969733073yqtfd14763"
                  class="yiv4969733073yqt9886534496">
                  <div>On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines
                    wrote:</div>
                  <blockquote id="yiv4969733073qt">
                    <div>I have been hearing a slapping sound either
                      under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I
                      encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I
                      decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the
                      problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire
                      securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such
                      luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and
                      jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire,
                      I saw that the cross member had cracked near where
                      the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I
                      did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and
                      that cross member is not available with them. So,
                      I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for
                      the old lever shock (I installed a couple of
                      decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much
                      pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me
                      that there may be some folks out there who have
                      gone through this and can tell me just how a fix
                      should be attempted.</div>
                    <div> </div>
                    <div>
                      <div>That crack shown in the photo seems to be
                        only on the back side of the cross member. I
                        have learned some welding skills in the last few
                        years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never
                        done anything under a car. I really don't like
                        the proximity of the gas tank either. I am
                        thinking that my local pro welder would be the
                        guy to call on, but is this really something
                        that can be fixed that way?</div>
                      <div> </div>
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    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 ph 505-352-1378  My World go here: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/">WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
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---

From: Greg Lemon <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2025 20:15:08 -0500

--===============0227831214304094581==

--000000000000b6a9030640c3a679
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have the tube shock conversion, I have been autocrossing my Triumph since
I finished restoring it about 15 years ago.  So far so good, I have a lift
so can check things out pretty easily.

I had a good set of lever shocks, but sold them on eBay several years ago,
thinking I would never go back.   I put a couple extra washers on the
bumper stop (in the can't hurt might help department) as I understand it
may be at the limit of travel for the shock that the mount gets stressed.

Greg Lemon

On Thu, Oct 9, 2025, 7:29=E2=80=AFPM David P <[email-masked]> wr=
ote:

> I just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison=
,
> Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the shocks. You can specify if you
> want the original dampening, or several levels of higher dampening. Plus,
> they always machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then insta=
ll
> a lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I sent them my shocks
> and it took two weeks to get them back. I think that I paid $130 per shoc=
k.
> Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rea=
r
> shocks not "shocking".  I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to
> never see any cracks.  But it always worried me.  Then, a few years back,=
 I
> started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Appl=
e
> Hydraulics?  Could look it up when I get home.)  And I figured I'd give i=
t
> a try.  And I'm very, very happy with the results.
>
> I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 197=
4
> TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to
> sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that th=
e
> spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I
> finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and remov=
ed
> the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after
> market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss
> parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm
> wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I
> installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressu=
re
> on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out
> there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be
> attempted.
>
> cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, a=
nd
> I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really
> don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my
> local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really somethin=
g
> that can be fixed that way?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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[email-masked]
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> --
> DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 <https=
://www.google.com/maps/search/2909+Arno+St.+NE+Albuquerque,+NM.+87107?entry=
=3Dgmail&source=3Dg> ph 505-352-1378  My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM=
/
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

--000000000000b6a9030640c3a679
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">I have the tube shock conversion, I have been autocrossin=
g my Triumph since I finished restoring it about 15 years ago.=C2=A0 So far=
 so good, I have a lift so can check things out pretty easily.<div dir=3D"a=
uto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I had a good set of lever shocks, but sold=
 them on eBay several years ago, thinking I would never go back.=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0I put a couple extra washers on the bumper stop (in the can&#39;t hurt m=
ight help department) as I understand it may be at the limit of travel for =
the shock that the mount gets stressed.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">Greg Lemon</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_q=
uote_container"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Oct 9, 2025, =
7:29=E2=80=AFPM David P &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">fr=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_=
quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1=
ex"><u></u>

 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    <p>Dang, now I have to check mine for cracks..</p>
    <div>On 10/9/2025 2:29 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"=
_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div>
        <div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-style:normal;font-w=
eight:normal">I
            just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts
            of Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the
            shocks. You can specify if you want the original dampening,
            or several levels of higher dampening. Plus, they always
            machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then
            install a lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I
            sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them back.
            I think that I paid $130 per shock.=C2=A0<br>
          </span></div>
        <div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">=C2=A0</div>
        <div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-style:normal;font-w=
eight:normal">AlexL</span></div>
        <div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">=C2=A0</div>
        <div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">=C2=A0</div>
        <br>
        In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
        <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a> writes:
        <div>=C2=A0</div>
        <div>
          <blockquote style=3D"padding-left:5px;margin-left:5px;border-left=
:blue 2px solid">
            <div id=3D"m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073">
              <div>
                <div>Ouch!</div>
                <div>=C2=A0</div>
                <div>Tim, I don&#39;t have an answer for your welding
                  question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually)
                  did.</div>
                <div>=C2=A0</div>
                <div>Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I
                  tracked down to the rear shocks not &quot;shocking&quot;.=
=C2=A0 I put
                  on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see
                  any cracks.=C2=A0 But it always worried me.=C2=A0 Then, a=
 few
                  years back, I started hearing about an outfit that
                  would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?=C2=A0
                  Could look it up when I get home.)=C2=A0 And I figured I&=
#39;d
                  give it a try.=C2=A0 And I&#39;m very, very happy with th=
e
                  results.</div>
                <div>=C2=A0</div>
                <div>Just a thought for when you get to that point.</div>
                <div>=C2=A0</div>
                <div>- GeneG</div>
                <div>=C2=A0</div>
                <div id=3D"m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073yqtfd14763">
                  <div>On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines
                    wrote:</div>
                  <blockquote id=3D"m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073qt">
                    <div>I have been hearing a slapping sound either
                      under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I
                      encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I
                      decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the
                      problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire
                      securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such
                      luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and
                      jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire,
                      I saw that the cross member had cracked near where
                      the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I
                      did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and
                      that cross member is not available with them. So,
                      I&#39;m wondering if this shock mount replacement for
                      the old lever shock (I installed a couple of
                      decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much
                      pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me
                      that there may be some folks out there who have
                      gone through this and can tell me just how a fix
                      should be attempted.</div>
                    <div>=C2=A0</div>
                    <div>
                      <div>That crack shown in the photo seems to be
                        only on the back side of the cross member. I
                        have learned some welding skills in the last few
                        years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never
                        done anything under a car. I really don&#39;t like
                        the proximity of the gas tank either. I am
                        thinking that my local pro welder would be the
                        guy to call on, but is this really something
                        that can be fixed that way?</div>
                      <div>=C2=A0</div>
                      <div>
                        <div>=C2=A0</div>
                        <div>=C2=A0</div>
                        <div>
                          <div>=C2=A0</div>
                          <div>=C2=A0</div>
                          <div>=C2=A0</div>
                        </div>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                    <div id=3D"m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073qt-DAB4FAD8=
-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
                      <div>=C2=A0</div>
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                    <div><strong>Attachments:</strong></div>
                    <ul>
                      <li>TR6 broken support.JPG</li>
                    </ul>
                  </blockquote>
                  <div>=C2=A0</div>
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    <pre cols=3D"72">--=20
DBA Porter Custom Bicycles <a href=3D"https://www.google.com/maps/search/29=
09+Arno+St.+NE+Albuquerque,+NM.+87107?entry=3Dgmail&amp;source=3Dg">2909 Ar=
no St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107</a> ph 505-352-1378  My World go here: <a =
href=3D"http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">W=
WW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
  </div>

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---

From: Bud Rolofson <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2025 12:12:02 -0600

--===============5812854099731248620==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_5DB50D07-171D-4795-95F5-3F23277C6DB2"

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

I went back to lever arm shocks (heavy duty rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics) =
after the telescopic shocks ripped a chunk of my frame out. If I=E2=80=99d=
 buildt up the bump stop it might have prevented it but the lever arm =
shocks work well if as new. I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with them on road =
trips and have done just fine autocrossing with them.

This probably happened when I autocrossed the car at VTR2007 but it only =
completely broke loose about 75 miles from home so I limped slowly back =
to the shop.

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle=20
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

> On Oct 9, 2025, at 7:15 PM, Greg Lemon <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> I have the tube shock conversion, I have been autocrossing my Triumph =
since I finished restoring it about 15 years ago.  So far so good, I =
have a lift so can check things out pretty easily.
>=20
> I had a good set of lever shocks, but sold them on eBay several years =
ago, thinking I would never go back.   I put a couple extra washers on =
the bumper stop (in the can't hurt might help department) as I =
understand it may be at the limit of travel for the shock that the mount =
gets stressed.
>=20
> Greg Lemon
>=20
> On Thu, Oct 9, 2025, 7:29=E2=80=AFPM David P =
>> I just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of =
Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the shocks. You can =
specify if you want the original dampening, or several levels of higher =
dampening. Plus, they always machine the opening for the shock lever =
shaft, and then install a lip seal that will keep the shocks from =
leaking. I sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them back. I =
think that I paid $130 per shock.=20
>> =20
>> AlexL
>> =20
>> =20
>>=20
>> In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, =
>> =20
>> Ouch!
>> =20
>> Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to =
recommend what I (eventually) did.
>> =20
>> Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the =
rear shocks not "shocking".  I put on a similar adapter, and was =
fortunate to never see any cracks.  But it always worried me.  Then, a =
few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the =
lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?  Could look it up when I get home.)  And =
I figured I'd give it a try.  And I'm very, very happy with the results.
>> I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the =
1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I =
decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I =
saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such =
luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear =
end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near =
where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check =
with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with =
them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old =
lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put =
too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may =
be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just =
how a fix should be attempted.
>> =20
>> That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of =
the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few =
years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a =
car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am =
thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is =
this really something that can be fixed that way?
>>  =
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_=
campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient>	Virus-free.www.avast.com =
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_=
campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient>
>> =20
>> =20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive =
<http://www.team.net/archive>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked] =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]>=

>> =20
>> =20
>> Attachments:
>> TR6 broken support.JPG
>> =20
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive =
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>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive =
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked] =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]>=

> --=20
> DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 =
<https://www.google.com/maps/search/2909+Arno+St.+NE+Albuquerque,+NM.+8710=
7?entry=3Dgmail&source=3Dg> ph 505-352-1378  My World go here: =
WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ <http://www.porterbikes.com/>** =
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive =
<http://www.team.net/archive>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked] =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  =
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

--Apple-Mail=_5DB50D07-171D-4795-95F5-3F23277C6DB2
	type="text/html";
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_056AB89A-2B11-414C-ADE6-5239CFE2114F"

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I =
went back to lever arm shocks (heavy duty rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics) =
after the telescopic shocks ripped a chunk of my frame out. If I=E2=80=99d=
 buildt up the bump stop it might have prevented it but the lever arm =
shocks work well if as new. I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with them on road =
trips and have done just fine autocrossing with them.<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">This probably happened when I =
autocrossed the car at VTR2007 but it only completely broke loose about =
75 miles from home so I limped slowly back to the shop.<br class=3D""><div=
 class=3D""><br class=3D""><div class=3D"">
Bud Rolofson<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Extreme Parts =
Racing&nbsp;(more than just a haircut)<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">71TR6 =
CC57365 (Good&nbsp;6)<br class=3D"">71 Spitfire MK IV Race&nbsp;Car =
#3<br class=3D"">69 Spitfire MK III (back&nbsp;up FE engine/dinghy =
car)<br class=3D"">93 Minnie Winnie Race&nbsp;Support Vehicle&nbsp;<br =
class=3D"">77 Z-50A Hardly&nbsp;Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph =
Pit&nbsp;Bike)

</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D"webkit-block-placeholder"></div><div =
class=3D""><img apple-inline=3D"yes" =
id=3D"AE10B883-B701-4F93-8512-88E9017A999D" =
src=3D"cid:1A33528A-9DE9-47FB-8CC2-663A4AD36C14" class=3D""><img =
apple-inline=3D"yes" id=3D"C62BD365-78C9-495D-A190-74F7DB96D4B3" =
src=3D"cid:0770F926-E074-4C34-AA30-D92D5A4F33C3" class=3D""><img =
apple-inline=3D"yes" id=3D"73A161A7-A4CD-4A96-BB8F-7D9192DDBD6F" =
src=3D"cid:1CA7AF03-D4EA-4B29-B1C3-C052A2778EF2" class=3D""><img =
apple-inline=3D"yes" id=3D"2EDCF8BA-66D6-4DA9-850C-650B69F7BEA6" =
src=3D"cid:6B71E471-B5CA-4772-91AB-BC35322098E4" class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div>
<div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Oct 9, 2025, at 7:15 PM, Greg Lemon &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">I have the tube shock conversion, I have been =
autocrossing my Triumph since I finished restoring it about 15 years =
ago.&nbsp; So far so good, I have a lift so can check things out pretty =
easily.<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto"=
 class=3D"">I had a good set of lever shocks, but sold them on eBay =
several years ago, thinking I would never go back.&nbsp; &nbsp;I put a =
couple extra washers on the bumper stop (in the can't hurt might help =
department) as I understand it may be at the limit of travel for the =
shock that the mount gets stressed.</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Greg Lemon</div></div><br =
class=3D""><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Oct 9, 2025, 7:29=E2=80=AFPM =
David P &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br =
class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 =
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><u class=3D""></u>

 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div class=3D""><p class=3D"">Dang, now I have to check mine for =
cracks..</p>
    <div class=3D"">On 10/9/2025 2:29 PM, <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>
      wrote:<br class=3D"">
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"">
     =20
      <div class=3D"">
        <div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 10pt;" class=3D""><span style=3D"font-style: normal; =
font-weight: normal;" class=3D"">I
            just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts
            of Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the
            shocks. You can specify if you want the original dampening,
            or several levels of higher dampening. Plus, they always
            machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then
            install a lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I
            sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them back.
            I think that I paid $130 per shock.&nbsp;<br class=3D"">
          </span></div>
        <div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 10pt;" class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
        <div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 10pt;" class=3D""><span style=3D"font-style: normal; =
font-weight: normal;" class=3D"">AlexL</span></div>
        <div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 10pt;" class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
        <div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 10pt;" class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
        <br class=3D"">
        In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
        <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a> writes:
        <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
        <div class=3D"">
          <blockquote =
style=3D"padding-left:5px;margin-left:5px;border-left:blue 2px solid" =
class=3D"">
            <div id=3D"m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073" class=3D"">
              <div class=3D"">
                <div class=3D"">Ouch!</div>
                <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                <div class=3D"">Tim, I don't have an answer for your =
welding
                  question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually)
                  did.</div>
                <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                <div class=3D"">Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my =
6 that I
                  tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".&nbsp; =
I put
                  on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see
                  any cracks.&nbsp; But it always worried me.&nbsp; =
Then, a few
                  years back, I started hearing about an outfit that
                  would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple =
Hydraulics?&nbsp;
                  Could look it up when I get home.)&nbsp; And I figured =
I'd
                  give it a try.&nbsp; And I'm very, very happy with the
                  results.</div>
                <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                <div class=3D"">Just a thought for when you get to that =
point.</div>
                <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                <div class=3D"">- GeneG</div>
                <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                <div id=3D"m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073yqtfd14763" =
class=3D"">
                  <div class=3D"">On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim =
Gaines
                    wrote:</div>
                  <blockquote id=3D"m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073qt" =
class=3D"">
                    <div class=3D"">I have been hearing a slapping sound =
either
                      under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I
                      encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I
                      decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the
                      problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire
                      securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such
                      luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and
                      jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire,
                      I saw that the cross member had cracked near where
                      the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I
                      did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and
                      that cross member is not available with them. So,
                      I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for
                      the old lever shock (I installed a couple of
                      decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much
                      pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me
                      that there may be some folks out there who have
                      gone through this and can tell me just how a fix
                      should be attempted.</div>
                    <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                    <div class=3D"">
                      <div class=3D"">That crack shown in the photo =
seems to be
                        only on the back side of the cross member. I
                        have learned some welding skills in the last few
                        years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never
                        done anything under a car. I really don't like
                        the proximity of the gas tank either. I am
                        thinking that my local pro welder would be the
                        guy to call on, but is this really something
                        that can be fixed that way?</div>
                      <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                      <div class=3D"">
                        <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                        <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                        <div class=3D"">
                          <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                          <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                          <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                        </div>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                    <div =
id=3D"m_796308010081605463yiv4969733073qt-DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9=
FDF2" class=3D"">
                      <div class=3D"">&nbsp;</div>
                      <table =
style=3D"border-top-width:1px;border-top-style:solid;border-top-color:rgb(=
211,212,222)" class=3D"">
                        <tbody class=3D"">
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colspan=3D"1" rowspan=3D"1" class=3D""><a =
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---

From: "Tim Gaines" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2025 15:17:45 +0000

--------=_MB206962B1-936F-464D-889E-54BF3F58F44B
 boundary="------=_MB84F45CB5-5FB4-4CE3-BDD7-B1646EC578B2"

--------=_MB84F45CB5-5FB4-4CE3-BDD7-B1646EC578B2
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I've been doing a lot of web surfing for videos and info on my problem 
of the cracked rear cross member caused by replacing the original lever 
shocks with a tube shock mount. I now see that the problem has been 
widely discussed, probably here on Triumphs as well as on various 
forums. I wish I had paid attention earlier. Inasmuch as both shock 
setups bolt to the same mounting plate on the cross member, I had 
difficulty understanding why the tube setup should do so much damage 
compared to the stock lever shocks. Well, I just found an old thread 
(Ken D, 2018) where one contributer (Walt P) explained a lot with 
reference to Ken D's photo.

"Ken was concerned about the angle of his lever shock link and wondered 
if something was wrong. The consensus was that it was probably normal 
unless the rear spring wasn't seated properly. Walt P offered this great 
explanation.

Notice the angles in the two lever-shock link-arm photos.
Now, imagine that a standard Fixed Mounting of a shock absorber/damper 
was used (between the frame & the TA) to replace the lever-shock & 
link-arm.
As the Trailing Arm pivoted through its full movement, would the Fixed 
Mounted Shock Absorber be able to move- as the Link-Arm did?
Or, would the Fixed Shock Absorber remain in place and rip apart the 
relatively fragile frame that it was mounted on?
Because that is exactly what happens when a Fixed Shock Absorber is used 
to replace the Lever-Shock.

Something to consider if the idea of a rear shock appeals to you.

Some venders DO sell a replacement shock system that pivots with the TA 
movement,
but Others do not.
Be aware of what you are seeing in the their ads."

Well, I had already installed the tube shocks long before this 
explanation came out, so I won't kick myself in the ass too hard. Some 
of you may be interested in another aspect of the "fix" for the cracking 
problem, namely putting lever shocks back on a new or repaired cross 
member. I found a great "Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties" Youtube video that 
showed how to service the original lever shocks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DAxrBaaLEHpw
I got out my own old pair, opened them up for the first time, and did 
what the video showed. It turned out that Yakov's shocks were pretty 
clean and in good shape. Mine looked bad inside, but I plowed ahead. 
First, I noticed that each of mine had a grease zerk installed in the 
cover, but Yakov's had a bolt (as do the new ones I have seen at Moss). 
Even worse, mine had a load of grease in them and not much else. Who 
knows who put those on! So maybe that is why my ride was so bad, and 
that in turn was why I replaced them with the tubes. I wish I had looked 
inside, but the idea of the tube conversion looked so inviting back 
then. I soaked the units in degreaser overnight, after drying filled the 
first one with motorcycle fork oil as per the video, and it now offers 
great resistance to movement, just as Yakov's did. In a few minutes I 
head to the garage to do the other one. I think I am going to have two 
good lever shocks. Now I need to see if my cross member can be removed 
without too much trouble (the left side is actually unattached to the 
rail now) and repaired with some welded braces.

Tim

------ Original Message ------
>From "Tim Gaines" <[email-masked]>
To "Triumphs" <[email-masked]>
Date 10/8/2025 4:37:00 PM
Subject TR6 rear shock mount break

-- 
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<html><head>

<style type=3D"text/css"><!--#x313171a1f8234a6 blockquote.cite2
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</head>
<body><div>I've been doing a lot of web surfing for videos and info on my p=
roblem of the cracked rear cross member caused by replacing the original le=
ver shocks with a tube shock mount. I now see that the problem has been wid=
ely discussed, probably here on Triumphs as well as on various forums. I wi=
sh I had paid attention earlier. Inasmuch as both shock setups bolt to the=
 same mounting plate on the cross member, I had difficulty understanding why =
the tube setup should do so much damage compared to the stock lever shocks=
. Well, I just found an old thread (Ken D, 2018) where one contributer (Wal=
t P) explained a lot with reference to Ken D's photo.=C2=A0</div><div><br /=
></div><div>"Ken was concerned about the angle of his lever shock link and=
 wondered if something was wrong. The consensus was that it was probably nor=
mal unless the rear spring wasn't seated properly. Walt P offered this grea=
t explanation.</div><div><br /></div><div><span style=3D"font-family: Arial=
, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Notice the angles in the two lev=
er-shock link-arm photos.</span></div><span style=3D"font-family: Arial, He=
lvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Now, imagine that a standard Fixed M=
ounting of a shock absorber/damper was used (between the frame &amp; the TA=
) to replace the lever-shock &amp; link-arm.</span><br style=3D"clear: both=
; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span styl=
e=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">As the Tr=
ailing Arm pivoted through its full movement, would the Fixed Mounted Shock =
Absorber be able to move- as the Link-Arm did?</span><br style=3D"clear: b=
oth; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span s=
tyle=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Or, wo=
uld the Fixed Shock Absorber remain in place and rip apart the relatively f=
ragile frame that it was mounted on?</span><br style=3D"clear: both; font-f=
amily: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style=3D"fon=
t-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Because that is e=
xactly what happens when a Fixed Shock Absorber is used to replace the Leve=
r-Shock.</span><br style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, san=
s-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial,=
 Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style=3D"font-family: Aria=
l, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Something to consider if the id=
ea of a rear shock appeals to you.</span><br style=3D"clear: both; font-fam=
ily: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style=3D"clear:=
 both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span=
 style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Some=
 venders DO sell a replacement shock system that pivots with the TA movement=
,</span><br style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif=
; font-size: 14px;" /><span style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-se=
rif; font-size: 14px;">but Others do not.</span><br style=3D"clear: both; f=
ont-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style=
=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Be aware o=
f what you are seeing in the their ads."</span><div><font face=3D"Arial, He=
lvetica, sans-serif"><span style=3D"font-size: 14px;"><br /></span></font><=
/div><div><font face=3D"Segoe UI Variable Text" style=3D"font-size: 12pt;"=
 size=3D"3">Well, I had already installed the tube shocks long before this e=
xplanation came out, so I won't kick myself in the ass too hard. Some of yo=
u may be interested in another aspect of the "fix" for the cracking problem=
, namely putting lever shocks back on a new or repaired cross member. I fou=
nd a great "Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties" Youtube video that showed how to s=
ervice the original lever shocks.=C2=A0</font></div><div><a href=3D"https:/=
/www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DAxrBaaLEHpw">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DA=
xrBaaLEHpw</a></div><div>I got out my own old pair, opened them up for the=
 first time, and did what the video showed. It turned out that Yakov's shock=
s were pretty clean and in good shape. Mine looked bad inside, but I plowed =
ahead. First, I noticed that each of mine had a grease zerk installed in t=
he cover, but Yakov's had a bolt (as do the new ones I have seen at Moss).=
 Even worse, mine had a load of grease in them and not much else. Who knows=
 who put those on! So maybe that is why my ride was so bad, and that in turn =
was why I replaced them with the tubes. I wish I had looked inside, but th=
e idea of the tube conversion looked so inviting back then. I soaked the un=
its in degreaser overnight, after drying filled the first one with motorcyc=
le fork oil as per the video, and it now offers great resistance to movemen=
t, just as Yakov's did. In a few minutes I head to the garage to do the oth=
er one. I think I am going to have two good lever shocks. Now I need to see =
if my cross member can be removed without too much trouble (the left side=
 is actually unattached to the rail now) and repaired with some welded brace=
s.</div><div><br /></div><div>Tim=C2=A0<div x-em-replyforwardheader=3D""><b=
r /></div>
<div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "Tim Gaines" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">mtgaines@=
presby.edu</a>&gt;</div>
<div>To "Triumphs" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">triumphs@=
autox.team.net</a>&gt;</div>
<div>Date 10/8/2025 4:37:00 PM</div>
<div>Subject TR6 rear shock mount break</div></div><div x-em-quote=3D""><br =
/></div>
<div id=3D"x313171a1f8234a6"><blockquote cite=3D"emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-=
[email-masked]" type=3D"cite" class=3D"cite2">
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974=
 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to so=
rt it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the sp=
are tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finall=
y gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the t=
ire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market sh=
ock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog =
and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if thi=
s shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of=
 decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. =
It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone throu=
gh this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.<div><br /></div=
><div>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of th=
e cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, a=
nd I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I reall=
y don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my lo=
cal pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something th=
at can be fixed that way?<br /><div><br /></div><div>=C2=A0<div><br /></div=
><div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div id=3D"=
DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br /><table style=3D"border-top: 1px =
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From: David P <[email-masked]> (ame8.swcp.com [216.184.2.128]); Sat, 11 Oct 2025 11:05:21 -0600 (MDT) SPF_PASS version=4.0.0
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2025 11:05:20 -0600

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My tube set up mounts to the tail of the trailing arm and then to a L 
plate reinforcement to the body tub..Pretty solid.. 8 new bolts through 
3/8" plate. No chassis involvement. DaveP

Car came to me this way, so no clue about origins..

On 10/11/2025 9:17 AM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> of the cracked rear cross member caused by replacing the original 
> lever shocks with a tube shock mount. I now see that the problem has 
> been widely discussed, probably here on Triumphs as well as on various 
> "Ken was concerned about the angle of his lever shock link and 
> wondered if something was wrong. The consensus was that it was 
> probably normal unless the rear spring wasn't seated properly. Walt P 
> offered this great explanation.
>
> Because that is exactly what happens when a Fixed Shock Absorber is 
> used to replace the Lever-Shock.
>
> Some venders DO sell a replacement shock system that pivots with the 
> TA movement,
> but Others do not.
> of you may be interested in another aspect of the "fix" for the 
> cracking problem, namely putting lever shocks back on a new or 
> repaired cross member. I found a great "Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties" 
> Youtube video that showed how to service the original lever shocks.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxrBaaLEHpw
> cover, but Yakov's had a bolt (as do the new ones I have seen at 
> Moss). Even worse, mine had a load of grease in them and not much 
> else. Who knows who put those on! So maybe that is why my ride was so 
> bad, and that in turn was why I replaced them with the tubes. I wish I 
> had looked inside, but the idea of the tube conversion looked so 
> inviting back then. I soaked the units in degreaser overnight, after 
> drying filled the first one with motorcycle fork oil as per the video, 
> and it now offers great resistance to movement, just as Yakov's did. 
> In a few minutes I head to the garage to do the other one. I think I 
> am going to have two good lever shocks. Now I need to see if my cross 
> member can be removed without too much trouble (the left side is 
> actually unattached to the rail now) and repaired with some welded braces.
>
> Tim
>
>> decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly 
>> when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but 
>> no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up 
>> the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member 
>> had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. 
>> I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member 
>> is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount 
>> replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades 
>> ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. 
>> It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone 
>> through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>>
>> That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of 
>> the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few 
>> years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under 
>> a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am 
>> thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is 

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    <p>My tube set up mounts to the tail of the trailing arm and then to
      a L plate reinforcement to the body tub..Pretty solid.. 8 new
      bolts through 3/8" plate. No chassis involvement. DaveP</p>
    <p>Car came to me this way, so no clue about origins..</p>
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 10/11/2025 9:17 AM, Tim Gaines
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite"
      cite=3D"mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DU=
TF-8">
      <style type=3D"text/css">#x313171a1f8234a6 blockquote.cite2
{margin-left: 5px; margin-right: 0px; padding-left: 10px; padding-right: =
0px; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin-top: 3px; padding-=
top: 0px;}#x313171a1f8234a6 a img
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ight: 0px; padding-left: 10px; padding-right:0px; border-left: 1px solid =
#cccccc; margin-top: 3px; padding-top: 0px; }a img { border: 0px; }li[sty=
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em_placeholder:after{color:gray; content: ' }}';}</style>
      <div>I've been doing a lot of web surfing for videos and info on
        my problem of the cracked rear cross member caused by replacing
        the original lever shocks with a tube shock mount. I now see
        that the problem has been widely discussed, probably here on
        Triumphs as well as on various forums. I wish I had paid
        attention earlier. Inasmuch as both shock setups bolt to the
        same mounting plate on the cross member, I had difficulty
        understanding why the tube setup should do so much damage
        compared to the stock lever shocks. Well, I just found an old
        thread (Ken D, 2018) where one contributer (Walt P) explained a
        lot with reference to Ken D's photo.=C2=A0</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>"Ken was concerned about the angle of his lever shock link
        and wondered if something was wrong. The consensus was that it
        was probably normal unless the rear spring wasn't seated
        properly. Walt P offered this great explanation.</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div><span
style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Not=
ice
          the angles in the two lever-shock link-arm photos.</span></div>=

      <span
style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Now=
,
        imagine that a standard Fixed Mounting of a shock
        absorber/damper was used (between the frame &amp; the TA) to
        replace the lever-shock &amp; link-arm.</span><br
style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 14px;">
      <span
style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">As
        the Trailing Arm pivoted through its full movement, would the
        Fixed Mounted Shock Absorber be able to move- as the Link-Arm
        did?</span><br
style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 14px;">
      <span
style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Or,=

        would the Fixed Shock Absorber remain in place and rip apart the
        relatively fragile frame that it was mounted on?</span><br
style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 14px;">
      <span
style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Bec=
ause
        that is exactly what happens when a Fixed Shock Absorber is used
        to replace the Lever-Shock.</span><br
style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 14px;">
      <br
style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 14px;">
      <span
style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Som=
ething
        to consider if the idea of a rear shock appeals to you.</span><br=

style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 14px;">
      <br
style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 14px;">
      <span
style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Som=
e
        venders DO sell a replacement shock system that pivots with the
        TA movement,</span><br
style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 14px;">
      <span
style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">but=

        Others do not.</span><br
style=3D"clear: both; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 14px;">
      <span
style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Be
        aware of what you are seeing in the their ads."</span>
      <div><font face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><span
            style=3D"font-size: 14px;"><br>
          </span></font></div>
      <div><font face=3D"Segoe UI Variable Text" style=3D"font-size: 12pt=
;"
          size=3D"3">Well, I had already installed the tube shocks long
          before this explanation came out, so I won't kick myself in
          the ass too hard. Some of you may be interested in another
          aspect of the "fix" for the cracking problem, namely putting
          lever shocks back on a new or repaired cross member. I found a
          great "Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties" Youtube video that showed
          how to service the original lever shocks.=C2=A0</font></div>
      <div><a href=3D"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DAxrBaaLEHpw"
          moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext">https:=
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DAxrBaaLEHpw</a></div>
      <div>I got out my own old pair, opened them up for the first time,
        and did what the video showed. It turned out that Yakov's shocks
        were pretty clean and in good shape. Mine looked bad inside, but
        I plowed ahead. First, I noticed that each of mine had a grease
        zerk installed in the cover, but Yakov's had a bolt (as do the
        new ones I have seen at Moss). Even worse, mine had a load of
        grease in them and not much else. Who knows who put those on! So
        maybe that is why my ride was so bad, and that in turn was why I
        replaced them with the tubes. I wish I had looked inside, but
        the idea of the tube conversion looked so inviting back then. I
        soaked the units in degreaser overnight, after drying filled the
        first one with motorcycle fork oil as per the video, and it now
        offers great resistance to movement, just as Yakov's did. In a
        few minutes I head to the garage to do the other one. I think I
        am going to have two good lever shocks. Now I need to see if my
        cross member can be removed without too much trouble (the left
        side is actually unattached to the rail now) and repaired with
        some welded braces.</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>Tim=C2=A0
        <div x-em-replyforwardheader=3D""><br>
        </div>
        <div>
          <div>------ Original Message ------</div>
          <div>From "Tim Gaines" &lt;<a
              href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send=3D"true=
"
              class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=
</div>
          <div>To "Triumphs" &lt;<a
              href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"
              moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext">tr=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;</div>
          <div>Date 10/8/2025 4:37:00 PM</div>
          <div>Subject TR6 rear shock mount break</div>
        </div>
        <div x-em-quote=3D""><br>
        </div>
        <div id=3D"x313171a1f8234a6">
          <blockquote
            cite=3D"[email-masked]"
            type=3D"cite" class=3D"cite2">
            I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind
            me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough
            pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had
            found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire
            securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I
            finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear
            end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had
            cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor
            bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog
            and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm
            wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever
            shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea
            and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to
            me that there may be some folks out there who have gone
            through this and can tell me just how a fix should be
            attempted.
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the
              back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding
              skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but
              I have never done anything under a car. I really don't
              like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking
              that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but
              is this really something that can be fixed that way?<br>
              <div><br>
              </div>
              <div>=C2=A0
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div><br>
                  <div><br>
                  </div>
                  <div><br>
                  </div>
                </div>
              </div>
            </div>
            <div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
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          </blockquote>
        </div>
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      <br>
      <fieldset class=3D"moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
      <pre wrap=3D"" class=3D"moz-quote-pre">** <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-=
abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked].=
net</a> **

nate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>
Archive: <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://www.team.net/p=
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    <pre class=3D"moz-signature" cols=3D"72">--=20
DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 ph 505=
-352-1378  My World go here: <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D=
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