Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)

From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2023 21:31:21 +0000

Brad

I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I’m fairly certain that needs to be switched power to the unit.  I don’t have a wiring diagram handy but you may be ok adding the small brown wire to the same terminal as the large brown wire - and run a separate connection for the switch power.  The positive coil terminal could be a convenient place.

Randy

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> 
> I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.  Here's the configuration:
> 
> 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire 
> 2) New wiring harness from TRF
> 3) Positive cable connected to battery
> 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse blows)
> 5) White wire at distributor disconnected
> 6) No dash instruments connected
> 7) Rear harness not installed yet
> 8) TBI power connector not connected
> 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected 
> 10) Alternator connected
> 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place
> 
> 
> When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.  When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw disappears. 
> 
> The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow wire goes to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.  
> 
> The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator called "switched live" from the battery.  Currently the small brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.  If the "switched live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.  
> 
> All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch on position and only live when the ignition is on.  I don't have any way to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and won't for a few weeks.  I'd like to resolve this before I go much further with the wiring install.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** [email-masked] **
> 
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---

From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2023 17:51:35 -0400

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Hi Randy,

I used a 3-wire Denso a bunch of years ago and thought I wired it hot all
the time but it's obvious that I'm wrong on that.  I like the idea of
pulling ignition power off the coil and connecting the small brown with the
large brown wire.  Beats running a wire all the way over to the fuse box.

I've made changes to the wiring but I'm trying to not modify the new TRF
harness.  You never know when you might want to revert back to stock.

Thanks.

Brad

On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 5:31=E2=80=AFPM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> Brad
>
> I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I=E2=80=99m fairl=
y certain
> that needs to be switched power to the unit.  I don=E2=80=99t have a wiri=
ng diagram
> handy but you may be ok adding the small brown wire to the same terminal =
as
> the large brown wire - and run a separate connection for the switch power=
.
> The positive coil terminal could be a convenient place.
>
> Randy
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > =EF=BB=BF
> > 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a smal=
l
> amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow
> before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fus=
e
> blows)
> > When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.
> When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw
> disappears.
> >
> > The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow wire goes to the
> (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.
> >
> > The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator
> called "switched live" from the battery.  Currently the small brown wire =
is
> always live from the battery per Triumph design.  If the "switched live'
> note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch
> is off then that is likely the problem.
> >
> > All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switc=
h
> on position and only live when the ignition is on.  I don't have any way =
to
> really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and
> won't for a few weeks.  I'd like to resolve this before I go much further
> with the wiring install.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Brad
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

--000000000000bb3e4905f8ee4363
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Hi Randy,</div><div><br></div><div>I used a 3-wire De=
nso a bunch of years ago and thought I wired it hot all the time but it&#39=
;s obvious that I&#39;m wrong on that.=C2=A0 I like the idea of pulling ign=
ition power off the coil and connecting the small brown with the large brow=
n wire.=C2=A0 Beats running a wire all the way over to the fuse box.</div><=
div><br></div><div>I&#39;ve made changes to the wiring but I&#39;m trying t=
o not modify the new TRF harness.=C2=A0 You never know when you might want =
to revert back to stock.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks.</div><div><br></d=
iv><div>Brad</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quo=
te"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 5:31=E2=80=
=AFPM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:deruiterville@hotmai=
l.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rg=
b(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Brad<br>
<br>
I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I=E2=80=99m fairly =
certain that needs to be switched power to the unit.=C2=A0 I don=E2=80=99t =
have a wiring diagram handy but you may be ok adding the small brown wire t=
o the same terminal as the large brown wire - and run a separate connection=
 for the switch power.=C2=A0 The positive coil terminal could be a convenie=
nt place.<br>
<br>
Randy<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPad<br>
<br>
&gt; On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bkahler1=
@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; =EF=BB=BF<br>
&gt; I&#39;m trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6=
.=C2=A0 Here&#39;s the configuration:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire <br>
&gt; 2) New wiring harness from TRF<br>
&gt; 3) Positive cable connected to battery<br>
&gt; 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a sma=
ll amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow b=
efore damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse b=
lows)<br>
&gt; 5) White wire at distributor disconnected<br>
&gt; 6) No dash instruments connected<br>
&gt; 7) Rear harness not installed yet<br>
&gt; 8) TBI power connector not connected<br>
&gt; 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected <br>
&gt; 10) Alternator connected<br>
&gt; 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.=C2=
=A0 When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current dr=
aw disappears. <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; The wires area connected as follows.=C2=A0 The brown/yellow wire goes =
to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.=C2=A0 <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator=
 called &quot;switched live&quot; from the battery.=C2=A0 Currently the sma=
ll brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.=C2=A0 If =
the &quot;switched live&#39; note means the brown wire is supposed to be co=
ld when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.=C2=A0 <=
br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition swit=
ch on position and only live when the ignition is on.=C2=A0 I don&#39;t hav=
e any way to really test my theory because I haven&#39;t got the engine run=
ning yet and won&#39;t for a few weeks.=C2=A0 I&#39;d like to resolve this =
before I go much further with the wiring install.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Thanks,<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Brad<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; ** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triump=
[email-masked]</a> **<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
 target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
&gt; Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=C2=A0=
 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blan=
k">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/t=
riumphs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><b=
r>
</blockquote></div></div>

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From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2023 22:33:34 +0000 (UTC)

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 I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it uses the same regulator=
 as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light connected the regulator w=
ill turn on and try to generate current even though the alternator is not t=
urning.=C2=A0 That four amps is the field current.=C2=A0 Applying power to =
the IGN light will cause current to flow into the regulator which turns eve=
rything on.=C2=A0 In normal operation, switching the key off will break thi=
s feed and the regulator will shut off.
This works quite differently than the boot-strap operation with which we ar=
e more familiar and is typical of alternators of our vintage.
But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and this may not be the ca=
se. But that is where I would start.
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
To: Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm
Subject: [TR] (no subject)

I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.=C2=A0 H=
ere's the configuration:
1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire=C2=A02) New wiring harness from TRF3=
) Positive=C2=A0cable connected to battery4) Between negative cable and gro=
und I have a fuse inserted with a small amp meter (this way if a short occu=
rs while testing the fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read=
 the current draw if/until the fuse blows)5) White wire at distributor disc=
onnected6) No dash instruments connected7) Rear harness not installed yet8)=
 TBI power connector not connected9) Harness in engine compartment mostly c=
onnected=C2=A010) Alternator connected11) Fuse between brown and purple wir=
es is NOT in place

When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.=C2=A0 W=
hen I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw di=
sappears.=C2=A0
The wires area connected as follows.=C2=A0 The brown/yellow wire goes to th=
e (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.=C2=A0=C2=A0
The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator call=
ed "switched live" from the battery.=C2=A0 Currently the small brown wire i=
s always live from the battery per Triumph design.=C2=A0 If the "switched l=
ive' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition swi=
tch is off then that is likely the problem.=C2=A0=C2=A0
All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch on=
 position and only live when the ignition is on.=C2=A0 I don't have any way=
 to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and =
won't for a few weeks.=C2=A0 I'd like to resolve this before I go much furt=
her with the wiring install.
Thanks,
Brad

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
rchive

[email-masked]

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<div style="color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size="3">I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it uses the same regulator as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light connected the regulator will turn on and try to generate current even though the alternator is not turning.&nbsp; That four amps is the field current.&nbsp; Applying power to the IGN light will cause current to flow into the regulator which turns everything on.&nbsp; In normal operation, switching the key off will break this feed and the regulator will shut off.</font></div>

<div><font size="3"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size="3">This works quite differently than the boot-strap operation with which we are more familiar and is typical of alternators of our vintage.</font></div>

<div><font size="3"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size="3">But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and this may not be the case. But that is where I would start.<br>
</font></div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="clear:both">
<div style="color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div style="color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div><font size="4">Dave <br>
</font></div>

<div><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><br>
</span></div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font size="2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Brad Kahler &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm<br>
Subject: [TR] (no subject)<br>
<br>

<div id="yiv0856585115">
<div dir="ltr">I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6.&nbsp; Here's the configuration:
<div><br>
</div>

<div>1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire&nbsp;</div>

<div>2) New wiring harness from TRF</div>

<div>3) Positive&nbsp;cable connected to battery</div>

<div>4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse blows)</div>

<div>5) White wire at distributor disconnected</div>

<div>6) No dash instruments connected</div>

<div>7) Rear harness not installed yet</div>

<div>8) TBI power connector not connected</div>

<div>9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected&nbsp;</div>

<div>10) Alternator connected</div>

<div>11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.&nbsp; When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw disappears.&nbsp;</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>The wires area connected as follows.&nbsp; The brown/yellow wire goes to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator called "switched live" from the battery.&nbsp; Currently the small brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.&nbsp; If the "switched live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch on position and only live when the ignition is on.&nbsp; I don't have any way to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and won't for a few weeks.&nbsp; I'd like to resolve this before I go much further with the wiring install.</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>Thanks,</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>Brad</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><br>
</div>
</div>

</div>
** <a ymailto="mailto:[email-masked]" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>&nbsp; <a href="http://www.team.net/archive" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
</font></div>
</div>

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From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2023 18:40:36 -0400

Don't forget that there may be a resistance wire in the feed circuit to the coil which limits voltage and available current. I found out the hard way when We had a Pertronix ignition set-up being fed by the coil wire. That low voltage starved the Pertronix unit twice before I realized what the issue was.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Randy and Valerie DeRuiter
Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2023 5:31 PM
To: Brad Kahler
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)

Brad

Randy

Sent from my iPad

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 10:25:05 -0400

--===============8671069722840471551==

--000000000000d1725d05f8fc24ac
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Morning Dave,

Thanks for the explanation as to why it's drawing 4 amps.  After more
research there is a Denso alternator that is a 4-wire connection just like
the Lucas alternators.  If I had bought that alternator I wouldn't have a
problem with the always hot brown wire.  I'm going to do what others have
suggested and just connect the small brown wire to the big brown wire and
find a source of ignition (white wire).  There are two choices in the
engine compartment, the distributor and the fuse box.  I'll look things
over today to see what it's going to take.

Hope to see you later this year :)

Brad

On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:33=E2=80=AFPM DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]> wr=
ote:

> I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it uses the same regulato=
r
> as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light connected the regulator
> will turn on and try to generate current even though the alternator is no=
t
> turning.  That four amps is the field current.  Applying power to the IGN
> light will cause current to flow into the regulator which turns everythin=
g
> on.  In normal operation, switching the key off will break this feed and
> the regulator will shut off.
>
> This works quite differently than the boot-strap operation with which we
> are more familiar and is typical of alternators of our vintage.
>
> But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and this may not be the
> case. But that is where I would start.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a small
e
> When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.  When
> I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current draw
> disappears.
>
is
> All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition switch
to
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

--000000000000d1725d05f8fc24ac
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Morning Dave,</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks for the=
 explanation=C2=A0as to why it&#39;s drawing 4 amps.=C2=A0 After more resea=
rch there is a Denso alternator that is a 4-wire connection just like the L=
ucas alternators.=C2=A0 If I had bought that alternator I wouldn&#39;t have=
 a problem with the always hot brown wire.=C2=A0 I&#39;m going to do what o=
thers have suggested and just connect the small brown wire to the big brown=
 wire and find a source of ignition (white wire).=C2=A0 There are two choic=
es in the engine compartment, the distributor and the fuse box.=C2=A0 I&#39=
;ll look things over today to see what it&#39;s going to take.</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Hope to see you later this year :)</div><div><br></div><div>Br=
ad</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr=
">On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:33=E2=80=AFPM DAVID MASSEY &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote=
 class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px so=
lid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<div> <font size=3D"3">I don&#39;t know about the Nippon alternator but if =
it uses the same regulator as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light=
 connected the regulator will turn on and try to generate current even thou=
gh the alternator is not turning.=C2=A0 That four amps is the field current=
.=C2=A0 Applying power to the IGN light will cause current to flow into the=
 regulator which turns everything on.=C2=A0 In normal operation, switching =
the key off will break this feed and the regulator will shut off.</font></d=
iv>

<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3">This works quite differently than the boot-strap oper=
ation with which we are more familiar and is typical of alternators of our =
vintage.</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3">But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and =
this may not be the case. But that is where I would start.<br>
</font></div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"clear:both">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br>
</font></div>

<div><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black"><br>
</span></div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
 size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Brad Kahler &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blan=
k">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
To: Triumphs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blan=
k">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm<br>
Subject: [TR] (no subject)<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"m_6358280264197886009yiv0856585115">
<div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;m trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiri=
ng in my TR6.=C2=A0 Here&#39;s the configuration:
<div><br>
</div>

<div>1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire=C2=A0</div>

<div>3) Positive=C2=A0cable connected to battery</div>

<div>4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a sma=
ll amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow b=
efore damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse b=
lows)</div>

<div>9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected=C2=A0</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.=C2=
=A0 When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current dr=
aw disappears.=C2=A0</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>The wires area connected as follows.=C2=A0 The brown/yellow wire goes =
to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator=
 called &quot;switched live&quot; from the battery.=C2=A0 Currently the sma=
ll brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.=C2=A0 If =
the &quot;switched live&#39; note means the brown wire is supposed to be co=
ld when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.=C2=A0=
=C2=A0</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition swit=
ch on position and only live when the ignition is on.=C2=A0 I don&#39;t hav=
e any way to really test my theory because I haven&#39;t got the engine run=
ning yet and won&#39;t for a few weeks.=C2=A0 I&#39;d like to resolve this =
before I go much further with the wiring install.</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>Thanks,</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>Brad</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><br>
</div>
</div>

</div>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triumphs@au=
tox.team.net</a> **<br>
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//www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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</font></div>
</div>
</blockquote></div></div>

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From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 13:02:58 -0400

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Alex,

If I remember correctly it was only the later TR6s that had the resistors
installed.  I'm certain mine doesn't have that feature.

I'll know for sure once I start the engine up in a few weeks!

Brad

On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:40=E2=80=AFPM Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson@ch=
arter.net>
wrote:

> Don't forget that there may be a resistance wire in the feed circuit to
> the coil which limits voltage and available current. I found out the hard
> way when We had a Pertronix ignition set-up being fed by the coil wire.
> That low voltage starved the Pertronix unit twice before I realized what
> the issue was.
>
> Alex Thomson
>
y certain
ng diagram
as
.
l
e
is
h
to
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>

--0000000000006cf74f05f8fe5949
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Alex,=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>If I remem=
ber correctly it was only the later TR6s that had the resistors installed.=
=C2=A0 I&#39;m certain mine doesn&#39;t have that feature.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div=
><div><br></div><div>I&#39;ll know for sure once I start the engine up in a=
 few weeks!</div><div><br></div><div>Brad</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quot=
e"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:40=E2=80=
=AFPM Alex &amp; Janet Thomson &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
t">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gma=
il_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,2=
04,204);padding-left:1ex">Don&#39;t forget that there may be a resistance w=
ire in the feed circuit to the coil which limits voltage and available curr=
ent. I found out the hard way when We had a Pertronix ignition set-up being=
 fed by the coil wire. That low voltage starved the Pertronix unit twice be=
fore I realized what the issue was.<br>
<br>
Alex Thomson<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Triumphs [mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" t=
arget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>] On Behalf Of Randy an=
d Valerie DeRuiter<br>
Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2023 5:31 PM<br>
To: Brad Kahler<br>
Cc: Triumphs<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)<br>
<br>
Brad<br>
<br>
I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I=E2=80=99m fairly =
certain that needs to be switched power to the unit.=C2=A0 I don=E2=80=99t =
have a wiring diagram handy but you may be ok adding the small brown wire t=
o the same terminal as the large brown wire - and run a separate connection=
 for the switch power.=C2=A0 The positive coil terminal could be a convenie=
nt place.<br>
<br>
Randy<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPad<br>
<br>
&gt; On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bkahler1=
@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; =EF=BB=BF<br>
&gt; I&#39;m trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my TR6=
.=C2=A0 Here&#39;s the configuration:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire <br>
&gt; 2) New wiring harness from TRF<br>
&gt; 3) Positive cable connected to battery<br>
&gt; 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with a sma=
ll amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the fuse will blow b=
efore damaging anything and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse b=
lows)<br>
&gt; 5) White wire at distributor disconnected<br>
&gt; 6) No dash instruments connected<br>
&gt; 7) Rear harness not installed yet<br>
&gt; 8) TBI power connector not connected<br>
&gt; 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected <br>
&gt; 10) Alternator connected<br>
&gt; 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.=C2=
=A0 When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current dr=
aw disappears. <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; The wires area connected as follows.=C2=A0 The brown/yellow wire goes =
to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.=C2=A0 <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator=
 called &quot;switched live&quot; from the battery.=C2=A0 Currently the sma=
ll brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.=C2=A0 If =
the &quot;switched live&#39; note means the brown wire is supposed to be co=
ld when the ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.=C2=A0 <=
br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition swit=
ch on position and only live when the ignition is on.=C2=A0 I don&#39;t hav=
e any way to really test my theory because I haven&#39;t got the engine run=
ning yet and won&#39;t for a few weeks.=C2=A0 I&#39;d like to resolve this =
before I go much further with the wiring install.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Thanks,<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Brad<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; ** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triump=
[email-masked]</a> **<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
 target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
&gt; Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=C2=A0=
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k">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/t=
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r>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
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ref=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
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ox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
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</blockquote></div></div>

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From: Paul Tegler <[email-masked]> mail.backend.jedi.jws.acl:role.jedi.acl.token.atz.jws.hermes.aol
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 15:35:43 -0400

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============3161950224762794903==
 boundary="------------0du0kIvZL330cldl8QGpDeMD"
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--------------0du0kIvZL330cldl8QGpDeMD
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simply measure ohms from the WHT wire at the ignition switch to the  + 
(plus)  wire for your ignition coil.
If you do not have a VERY low ohm reading, (< .5 ohms) the harness 
itself has the built in resistance wire designed for the 1.5ohm or so 
coil use
(vs the separate ceramic resistor usually mounted near the coil).
...speaking of which, you can get rid of that resistor and just use a 3 
ohm coil if you do not have an elec box for the distributor
(straight old style points in use)

ptegler

On 4/10/2023 1:02 PM, Brad Kahler wrote:
> Alex,
>
> If I remember correctly it was only the later TR6s that had the 
> resistors installed.  I'm certain mine doesn't have that feature.
>
> On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:40 PM Alex & Janet Thomson 
> <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>     Don't forget that there may be a resistance wire in the feed
>     circuit to the coil which limits voltage and available current. I
>     found out the hard way when We had a Pertronix ignition set-up
>     being fed by the coil wire. That low voltage starved the Pertronix
>     unit twice before I realized what the issue was.
>
>     Alex Thomson
>
>     I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I’m fairly
>     certain that needs to be switched power to the unit. I don’t have
>     a wiring diagram handy but you may be ok adding the small brown
>     wire to the same terminal as the large brown wire - and run a
>     separate connection for the switch power. The positive coil
>     terminal could be a convenient place.
>
>     Randy
>
>     Sent from my iPad
>
>     > I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring in my
>     TR6  Here's the configuration:
>     >
>     > 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse inserted with
>     a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs while testing the
>     fuse will blow before damaging anything and I can read the current
>     draw if/until the fuse blows)
>     > When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp
>     draw.  When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator
>     the current draw disappears.
>     >
>     > The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow wire goes
>     to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.
>     >
>     > The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the
>     alternator called "switched live" from the battery. Currently the
>     small brown wire is always live from the battery per Triumph
>     design.  If the "switched live' note means the brown wire is
>     supposed to be cold when the ignition switch is off then that is
>     likely the problem.
>     >
>     > All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the
>     ignition switch on position and only live when the ignition is
>     on.  I don't have any way to really test my theory because I
>     haven't got the engine running yet and won't for a few weeks.  I'd
>     like to resolve this before I go much further with the wiring install.
>     >
>     > Thanks,
>     >
>     > Brad
>     >
>     >
>     >
>     >
> [email-masked]  **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

-- 
Paul Tegler
[email-masked]   www.teglerizer.com

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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>simply measure ohms from the WHT wire at the ignition switch to
      the  + (plus)  wire for your ignition coil.<br>
      If you do not have a VERY low ohm reading, (&lt; .5 ohms) the
      harness itself has the built in resistance wire designed for the
      1.5ohm or so coil use<br>
      (vs the separate ceramic resistor usually mounted near the coil).<br>
      ...speaking of which, you can get rid of that resistor and just
      use a 3 ohm coil if you do not have an elec box for the
      distributor<br>
      (straight old style points in use)</p>
    <p>ptegler<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/10/2023 1:02 PM, Brad Kahler
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div>Alex,  </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>If I remember correctly it was only the later TR6s that had
          the resistors installed.  I'm certain mine doesn't have that
          feature.  </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>I'll know for sure once I start the engine up in a few
          weeks!</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Brad</div>
        <br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">
          <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at
            6:40 PM Alex &amp; Janet Thomson &lt;<a
              href="mailto:[email-masked]"
              moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
            wrote:<br>
          </div>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
            0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
            rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Don't forget that there
            may be a resistance wire in the feed circuit to the coil
            which limits voltage and available current. I found out the
            hard way when We had a Pertronix ignition set-up being fed
            by the coil wire. That low voltage starved the Pertronix
            unit twice before I realized what the issue was.<br>
            <br>
            Alex Thomson<br>
            <br>
            -----Original Message-----<br>
            From: Triumphs [mailto:<a
              href="mailto:[email-masked]"
              target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
              class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>]
            On Behalf Of Randy and Valerie DeRuiter<br>
            Sent: Sunday, April 9, 2023 5:31 PM<br>
            To: Brad Kahler<br>
            Cc: Triumphs<br>
            Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)<br>
            <br>
            Brad<br>
            <br>
            I did a similar conversion a few years ago on a TR3 and I’m
            fairly certain that needs to be switched power to the unit. 
            I don’t have a wiring diagram handy but you may be ok adding
            the small brown wire to the same terminal as the large brown
            wire - and run a separate connection for the switch power. 
            The positive coil terminal could be a convenient place.<br>
            <br>
            Randy<br>
            <br>
            Sent from my iPad<br>
            <br>
            &gt; On Apr 9, 2023, at 1:19 PM, Brad Kahler &lt;<a
              href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
              moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
            wrote:<br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new
            wiring in my TR6  Here's the configuration:<br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; 1) Mini Denso 70 amp alternator 3-wire <br>
            &gt; 2) New wiring harness from TRF<br>
            &gt; 3) Positive cable connected to battery<br>
            &gt; 4) Between negative cable and ground I have a fuse
            inserted with a small amp meter (this way if a short occurs
            while testing the fuse will blow before damaging anything
            and I can read the current draw if/until the fuse blows)<br>
            &gt; 5) White wire at distributor disconnected<br>
            &gt; 6) No dash instruments connected<br>
            &gt; 7) Rear harness not installed yet<br>
            &gt; 8) TBI power connector not connected<br>
            &gt; 9) Harness in engine compartment mostly connected <br>
            &gt; 10) Alternator connected<br>
            &gt; 11) Fuse between brown and purple wires is NOT in place<br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a
            4 amp draw.  When I disconnect the small brown wire on the
            alternator the current draw disappears. <br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; The wires area connected as follows.  The brown/yellow
            wire goes to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash
            light.  <br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on
            the alternator called "switched live" from the battery. 
            Currently the small brown wire is always live from the
            battery per Triumph design.  If the "switched live' note
            means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the
            ignition switch is off then that is likely the problem.  <br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from
            the ignition switch on position and only live when the
            ignition is on.  I don't have any way to really test my
            theory because I haven't got the engine running yet and
            won't for a few weeks.  I'd like to resolve this before I go
            much further with the wiring install.<br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; Thanks,<br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; Brad<br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; ** <a href="mailto:[email-masked]"
              target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
              class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>
            **<br>
            &gt; <br>
            &gt; Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html"
              rel="noreferrer" target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
              class="moz-txt-link-freetext">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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      <br>
      <fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
Paul Tegler
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>  <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.teglerizer.com">www.teglerizer.com</a></pre>
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From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2023 13:29:32 +0000 (UTC)

--===============5840987554217288177==
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 It took me a while and some research to figure out how the GM unit works a=
nd though it is typical of modern alternators it is radically different tha=
n what we are used to.
See you in GA.
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
To: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Sent: Mon, Apr 10, 2023 9:25 am
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)

Morning Dave,
Thanks for the explanation=C2=A0as to why it's drawing 4 amps.=C2=A0 After =
more research there is a Denso alternator that is a 4-wire connection just =
like the Lucas alternators.=C2=A0 If I had bought that alternator I wouldn'=
t have a problem with the always hot brown wire.=C2=A0 I'm going to do what=
 others have suggested and just connect the small brown wire to the big bro=
wn wire and find a source of ignition (white wire).=C2=A0 There are two cho=
ices in the engine compartment, the distributor and the fuse box.=C2=A0 I'l=
l look things over today to see what it's going to take.
Hope to see you later this year :)
Brad
On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6:33=E2=80=AFPM DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]> wr=
ote:

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
To: Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm
Subject: [TR] (no subject)

[email-masked]

------=_Part_2159357_1814239504.1681219772685
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<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size=3D"3">It took me a while and some research to figure out h=
ow the GM unit works and though it is typical of modern alternators it is r=
adically different than what we are used to.</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3">See you in GA.<br>
</font></div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"clear:both">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br>
</font></div>

<div><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><=
br>
</span></div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
 size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Brad Kahler &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: DAVID MASSEY &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Cc: [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Mon, Apr 10, 2023 9:25 am<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"yiv8596482395">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>Morning Dave,</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>Thanks for the explanation&nbsp;as to why it's drawing 4 amps.&nbsp; A=
fter more research there is a Denso alternator that is a 4-wire connection =
just like the Lucas alternators.&nbsp; If I had bought that alternator I wo=
uldn't have a problem with the always hot brown wire.&nbsp; I'm going to do=
 what others have suggested and just connect the small brown wire to the bi=
g brown wire and find a source of ignition (white wire).&nbsp; There are tw=
o choices in the engine compartment, the distributor and the fuse box.&nbsp=
; I'll look things over today to see what it's going to take.</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>Hope to see you later this year :)</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>Brad</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div id=3D"yiv8596482395yqt52936" class=3D"yiv8596482395yqt9202905822">
<div class=3D"yiv8596482395gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv8596482395gmail_attr">On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 6=
:33=E2=80=AFPM DAVID MASSEY &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" sha=
pe=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"n=
one"></div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"yiv8596482395gmail_quote">

<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">

<div> <font size=3D"3">I don't know about the Nippon alternator but if it u=
ses the same regulator as the Delco CS130 and if you have the IGN light con=
nected the regulator will turn on and try to generate current even though t=
he alternator is not turning.&nbsp; That four amps is the field current.&nb=
sp; Applying power to the IGN light will cause current to flow into the reg=
ulator which turns everything on.&nbsp; In normal operation, switching the =
key off will break this feed and the regulator will shut off.</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3"><br clear=3D"none">
</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3"><br clear=3D"none">
</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3">But then, I am not familiar with your alternator and =
this may not be the case. But that is where I would start.<br clear=3D"none=
">
</font></div>

<div> <br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div style=3D"clear:both;">

<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">

<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">

<div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br clear=3D"none">
</font></div>

<div><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><br=
 clear=3D"none">
</span></div>

<br clear=3D"none">
</div>

</div>

</div>

<div> <br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div> <br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial, helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black;"><fo=
nt size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br clear=3D"none">
From: Brad Kahler &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect=
" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:bk=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
To: Triumphs &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" yma=
ilto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:Tr=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
Sent: Sun, Apr 9, 2023 12:49 pm<br clear=3D"none">
Subject: [TR] (no subject)<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">

</font>
<div id=3D"yiv8596482395m_6358280264197886009yiv0856585115">

<div dir=3D"ltr">I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with the new wiring i=
n my TR6.&nbsp; Here's the configuration:

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div>When I connect the ground I immediately start showing a 4 amp draw.&nb=
sp; When I disconnect the small brown wire on the alternator the current dr=
aw disappears.&nbsp;</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div>The wires area connected as follows.&nbsp; The brown/yellow wire goes =
to the (1) connector on the alternator for dash light.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div>The small solid brown wire goes to the (2) connector on the alternator=
 called "switched live" from the battery.&nbsp; Currently the small brown w=
ire is always live from the battery per Triumph design.&nbsp; If the "switc=
hed live' note means the brown wire is supposed to be cold when the ignitio=
n switch is off then that is likely the problem.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div>All of this tells me the brown wire needs to be from the ignition swit=
ch on position and only live when the ignition is on.&nbsp; I don't have an=
y way to really test my theory because I haven't got the engine running yet=
 and won't for a few weeks.&nbsp; I'd like to resolve this before I go much=
 further with the wiring install.</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div>Thanks,</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div>Brad</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

</div>

</div>

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:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
eam.net">[email-masked]</a> **<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
lank" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.h=
tml</a><br clear=3D"none">
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</div>

</div>

</blockquote></div>
</div>
</div>

</div>
</div>
</font></div>
</div>

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