Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Oil Pan Leakage

From: Brian Schirano <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 16:55:11 -0400

--===============3525511223730709773==

--00000000000057503105e4f7df33
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello
I have not seen anyone mention internal engine pressures. I had exactly the
same problem on my GT6 after a rebuild. It was suggested to me the engine
needed better venting, excess pressure was *pushing* the oil out. For
example, replacing the oil fill cap on the valve cover with a vented style,
or in my case a larger vent hose going to a catch can. I had an advantage
that I had an electric fuel pump and could pick up a vent line from the
fuel pump blanking plate as well. In the end these fixes solved the problem
without changing any gaskets. That said, someone did mention the valve
cover leaking, I don't use one but am told the silicone gaskets seal better
than the cork.
Cheers
Brian

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 2:26 PM <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (William Brewer)
>    2. Re: valve ticking (Frank Magnusson)
>    3. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (Joel Justin)
>    4. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (bill beecher)
>    5. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (Cliff Hansen)
>    6. Re: valve ticking (DAVE HOGYE)
>    7. Re: valve ticking (dave northrup)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: William Brewer <[email-masked]>
> To: Triumph List <[email-masked]>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 13:11:22 -0700
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>       I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for
> over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt
> holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan
> fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I
> have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the
> recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It
> seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing
> block isn't stripped out.
>
>       I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan
> over to their houses because of the amount of drips.
>
>       I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks
> like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either
> that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't
> driven their cars much.
>
>       I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that
> to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then
> torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more
> worrying about flange distortion.
>
>       I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would
> mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could
> be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should
> make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and
> transmission.
>
>       Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?
>
>       -Bill Brewer
>
>       Morro Bay, CA
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Frank Magnusson <[email-masked]>
> To: [email-masked]
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 18:53:28 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] valve ticking
> Hi David,
>
> It could be several things.  Some light ticking is normal.
> You might try an oil additive.  I=E2=80=99ve used Marvel Mystery oil with=
 every
> oil chnage for many years and I first started using it after I had a
> sticking valve on a Chevy Impala at the suggestion of a mechanic and it
> freed that sticking valve right up.  I=E2=80=99ve used it ever since.
> It could also be your valves needing adjustment, but it sounds like you=
=E2=80=99ve
> done that.  You might recheck it to make sure that an adjustment nut didn=
=E2=80=99t
> come loose.
> Lastly, pull the valve cover off and make sure that you dont have a broke=
n
> valve spring.
>  I had a light valve ticking on my GT6, which sounded different than usua=
l
> and it turned out to be a broken valve spring.
> Hope this helps,
> Frank
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Joel Justin <[email-masked]>
> To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 23:53:57 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>
> Bill,
>
>
>
> If it=E2=80=99s leaking from the front, it=E2=80=99s quite likely it=E2=
=80=99s not the oil pan but
> rather the front engine plate. While it=E2=80=99s something like 3/16=E2=
=80=9D steel, they
> can suffer from over-torquing and warp. Even though there=E2=80=99s lots =
of bolts,
> seeps between them happens. Given the plate ends where the oil pan begins=
,
> it=E2=80=99s pretty hart to distinguish pan vs. plate. If you clean thing=
s up
> REALLY well, then run it for a short time, you might be able to see which
> it is. Unfortunately, it=E2=80=99s pretty much an engine out to replace, =
unless you
> try to support the front of the engine and try to remove it in situ. You
> could try using lots of Permatex silicone sealer when you reassemble, or
> buy a new front plate (available new in aluminum). If you convince yourse=
lf
> it=E2=80=99s the pan, you could also purchase an aluminum one. It has a t=
hick flat
> block mating surface. Good luck!
>
>
>
> Joel Justin=E2=80=A6
>
> =E2=80=9954 TR2
>
> =E2=80=9958 10 Estate
>
> =E2=80=9860 TR3A
>
> =E2=80=9961 TR4
>
> =E2=80=9965 2000 Saloon
>
> =E2=80=9971 GT6
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: bill beecher <[email-masked]>
> To: Joel Justin <[email-masked]>
> Cc: [email-masked]
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 08:39:28 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
> Good thought Joel. I don=E2=80=99t have any leak issues but you make a go=
od
> point.  Also could be the timing cover, which suffers the same ills as th=
e
> sump pan.
> Best regards,
> Bill
> TS30800L
>
> =E2=80=9CDo your best, and let the sparrows twitter=E2=80=9D  Lofty
>
> On Jul 28, 2022, at 11:21 PM, Joel Justin <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> =EF=BB=BF
>
> Bill,
>
>
>
> If it=E2=80=99s leaking from the front, it=E2=80=99s quite likely it=E2=
=80=99s not the oil pan but
> rather the front engine plate. While it=E2=80=99s something like 3/16=E2=
=80=9D steel, they
> can suffer from over-torquing and warp. Even though there=E2=80=99s lots =
of bolts,
> seeps between them happens. Given the plate ends where the oil pan begins=
,
> it=E2=80=99s pretty hart to distinguish pan vs. plate. If you clean thing=
s up
> REALLY well, then run it for a short time, you might be able to see which
> it is. Unfortunately, it=E2=80=99s pretty much an engine out to replace, =
unless you
> try to support the front of the engine and try to remove it in situ. You
> could try using lots of Permatex silicone sealer when you reassemble, or
> buy a new front plate (available new in aluminum). If you convince yourse=
lf
> it=E2=80=99s the pan, you could also purchase an aluminum one. It has a t=
hick flat
> block mating surface. Good luck!
>
>
>
> Joel Justin=E2=80=A6
>
> =E2=80=9954 TR2
>
> =E2=80=9958 10 Estate
>
> =E2=80=9860 TR3A
>
> =E2=80=9961 TR4
>
> =E2=80=9965 2000 Saloon
>
> =E2=80=9971 GT6
>
>
>
>
> ** [email-masked] **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Cliff Hansen <[email-masked]>
> To: William Brewer <[email-masked]>, Triumph List <
> [email-masked]>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 14:50:59 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>
> Bill,
>
>
>
> Following.
>
>
>
> I replaced the pan gasket on my TR4A about a year ago. I carefully levele=
d
> the mating surface using a dolly then a file, new gasket with Permatex #2=
,
> and actually used a in-lb torque wrench. Before it leaked moderately from
> the pan-to-block join. Now it leaks slooowly, accumulating a drop at almo=
st
> every bolt head, even the bolts that don=E2=80=99t pass into the interior=
 of the
> engine. It=E2=80=99s frustrating because I=E2=80=99ve managed to solve ev=
ery other leak.
>
>
>
> Cliff
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986> for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *William Brewer <[email-masked]>
> *Sent: *Thursday, July 28, 2022 8:19 PM
> *To: *Triumph List <[email-masked]>
> *Subject: *[TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage
>
>
>
>      I have been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for
> over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt
> holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan
> fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I
> have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the
> recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It
> seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing
> block isn't stripped out.
>
>       I have family members asking me not to bring the TR3 and Morgan
> over to their houses because of the amount of drips.
>
>       I have looking over the "Triumph Experience" website and it looks
> like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either
> that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven't
> driven their cars much.
>
>       I've considered CNC'ing a 3/8" steel mounting flange, welding that
> to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then
> torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more
> worrying about flange distortion.
>
>       I've also considered making a sheet metal "catch box" that would
> mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could
> be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should
> make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and
> transmission.
>
>       Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to stay drip free?
>
>       -Bill Brewer
>
>       Morro Bay, CA
>
> ** [email-masked] **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: DAVE HOGYE <[email-masked]>
> To: Frank Magnusson <[email-masked]>, [email-masked]
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 08:26:43 -0700 (PDT)
> Subject: Re: [TR] valve ticking
> It is common for some rocker arms to wear heavily, (do to the hardness
> factor variation) where they touch the valve tip.  So, an accurate valve
> adjustment is nearly impossible.  You'd have to have a very slim feeler
> gauge to adjust them correctly.  Basically the standard feeler gauge will
> bridge the wear area of the rocker and not allow proper measurement.
> Dave H.
>
> > On 07/28/2022 4:53 PM Frank Magnusson <[email-masked]> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi David,
> >
> > It could be several things.  Some light ticking is normal.
> > You might try an oil additive.  I=E2=80=99ve used Marvel Mystery oil wi=
th every
> oil chnage for many years and I first started using it after I had a
> sticking valve on a Chevy Impala at the suggestion of a mechanic and it
> freed that sticking valve right up.  I=E2=80=99ve used it ever since.
> > It could also be your valves needing adjustment, but it sounds like
> you=E2=80=99ve done that.  You might recheck it to make sure that an adju=
stment nut
> didn=E2=80=99t come loose.
> > Lastly, pull the valve cover off and make sure that you dont have a
> broken valve spring.
> >  I had a light valve ticking on my GT6, which sounded different than
> usual and it turned out to be a broken valve spring.
> > Hope this helps,
> > Frank
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ** [email-masked] **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: dave northrup <[email-masked]>
> To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2022 16:55:01 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] valve ticking
> Something to check:  if you tighten the valve cover too much it will bend
> it down to where the rockers hit it
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> [email-masked]
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>

--=20
Brian Schirano
585-305-0349

--00000000000057503105e4f7df33
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Hello</div><div>I have not seen anyone mention intern=
al engine pressures. I had exactly=C2=A0the same problem on my GT6 after a =
rebuild. It was suggested to me the engine needed better venting, excess pr=
essure was <i>pushing</i> the oil out. For example, replacing the oil fill =
cap on the valve cover with a vented style, or in my case a larger vent hos=
e going to a catch can. I had an advantage that I had an electric fuel pump=
 and could pick up a vent line from the fuel pump blanking plate as well. I=
n the end these fixes solved the problem without changing any gaskets. That=
 said, someone did mention the valve cover leaking, I don&#39;t use one but=
 am told the silicone gaskets seal better than the cork.</div><div>Cheers</=
div><div>Brian</div><div><br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 2:26 PM &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:=
0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">=
Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" targ=
et=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listin=
fo/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mai=
lman/listinfo/triumphs</a><br>
or, via email, send a message with subject or body &#39;help&#39; to<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
et" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
You can reach the person managing the list at<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br>
than &quot;Re: Contents of Triumphs digest...&quot;<br>
Today&#39;s Topics:<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A01. TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (William Brewer)<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A02. Re: valve ticking (Frank Magnusson)<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A03. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (Joel Justin)<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A04. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (bill beecher)<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A05. Re: TR3 Oil Pan Leakage (Cliff Hansen)<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A06. Re: valve ticking (DAVE HOGYE)<br>
=C2=A0 =C2=A07. Re: valve ticking (dave northrup)<br>
<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From:=C2=A0William B=
rewer &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">billb=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>To:=C2=A0Triumph List &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tr=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br=
>Cc:=C2=A0<br>Bcc:=C2=A0<br>Date:=C2=A0Thu, 28 Jul 2022 13:11:22 -0700<br>S=
ubject:=C2=A0[TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage<br>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I h=
ave been trying to get the oil pan to quit being so leaky for <br>
over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt <br>
holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan <br>
fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I <br=
have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the <b=
r>
recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It <br>
seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing <b=
r>
block isn&#39;t stripped out.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I have family members asking me not to bring=
 the TR3 and Morgan <br>
over to their houses because of the amount of drips.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I have looking over the &quot;Triumph Experi=
ence&quot; website and it looks <br>
like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either <br>
that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven&#39;t <br>
driven their cars much.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I&#39;ve considered CNC&#39;ing a 3/8&quot; =
steel mounting flange, welding that <br>
to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then <br=
torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more <br>
worrying about flange distortion.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I&#39;ve also considered making a sheet meta=
l &quot;catch box&quot; that would <br>
mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could <br>
be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should <b=
r>
make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and <br>
transmission.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to st=
ay drip free?<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 -Bill Brewer<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Morro Bay, CA<br>
<br>
<br>
<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From:=C2=A0Frank Mag=
nusson &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
</a>&gt;<br>To:=C2=A0<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_=
blank">[email-masked]</a><br>Cc:=C2=A0<br>Bcc:=C2=A0<br>Date:=C2=
=A0Thu, 28 Jul 2022 18:53:28 -0500<br>Subject:=C2=A0Re: [TR] valve ticking<=
br>Hi David,<br>
<br>
It could be several things.=C2=A0 Some light ticking is normal.=C2=A0 <br>
You might try an oil additive.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve used Marvel Mystery oil w=
ith every oil chnage for many years and I first started using it after I ha=
d a sticking valve on a Chevy Impala at the suggestion of a mechanic and it=
 freed that sticking valve right up.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve used it ever since.=
<br>
It could also be your valves needing adjustment, but it sounds like you=E2=
=80=99ve done that.=C2=A0 You might recheck it to make sure that an adjustm=
ent nut didn=E2=80=99t come loose.<br>
Lastly, pull the valve cover off and make sure that you dont have a broken =
valve spring.<br>
=C2=A0I had a light valve ticking on my GT6, which sounded different than u=
sual and it turned out to be a broken valve spring.=C2=A0 <br>
Hope this helps,<br>
Frank<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPad<br>
<br>
<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From:=C2=A0Joel Just=
in &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">j_bar_j@hot=
mail.com</a>&gt;<br>To:=C2=A0&quot;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
t" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&quot; &lt;<a href=3D"mailt=
o:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt=
;<br>Cc:=C2=A0<br>Bcc:=C2=A0<br>Date:=C2=A0Thu, 28 Jul 2022 23:53:57 +0000<=
br>Subject:=C2=A0Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage<br>

<div lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word;">
<div class=3D"gmail-m_4073331902144326370WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">Bill,<u></u><u></u></=
span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u><=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">If it=E2=80=99s leaki=
ng from the front, it=E2=80=99s quite likely it=E2=80=99s not the oil pan b=
ut rather the front engine plate. While it=E2=80=99s something like 3/16=E2=
=80=9D steel, they can suffer from over-torquing and warp. Even though ther=
e=E2=80=99s
 lots of bolts, seeps between them happens. Given the plate ends where the =
oil pan begins, it=E2=80=99s pretty hart to distinguish pan vs. plate. If y=
ou clean things up REALLY well, then run it for a short time, you might be =
able to see which it is. Unfortunately,
 it=E2=80=99s pretty much an engine out to replace, unless you try to suppo=
rt the front of the engine and try to remove it in situ. You could try usin=
g lots of Permatex silicone sealer when you reassemble, or buy a new front =
plate (available new in aluminum). If you
 convince yourself it=E2=80=99s the pan, you could also purchase an aluminu=
m one. It has a thick flat block mating surface. Good luck!<u></u><u></u></=
span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u><=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">Joel Justin=E2=80=A6<=
u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9954 TR2<u></u=
><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9958 10 Estate=
<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9860 TR3A<u></=
u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9961 TR4<u></u=
><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9965 2000 Salo=
on<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9971 GT6<u></u=
><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u><=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u><=
/span></p>
</div>
</div>

<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From:=C2=A0bill beec=
her &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">notakitca=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>To:=C2=A0Joel Justin &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:j_bar_j@h=
otmail.com" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>Cc:=C2=A0<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
.net</a><br>Bcc:=C2=A0<br>Date:=C2=A0Fri, 29 Jul 2022 08:39:28 -0500<br>Sub=
ject:=C2=A0Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage<br><div dir=3D"auto">Good thought J=
oel. I don=E2=80=99t have any leak issues but you make a good point.=C2=A0 =
Also could be the timing cover, which suffers the same ills as the sump pan=
.=C2=A0<div>Best regards,</div><div>Bill</div><div>TS30800L<br><br><div dir=
=3D"ltr">=E2=80=9CDo your best, and let the sparrows twitter=E2=80=9D =C2=
=A0Lofty</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Jul 28, 2022, at 11:21 PM, Joel Justi=
n &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">j_bar_j@hotm=
ail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF

<div class=3D"gmail-m_4073331902144326370WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">Bill,<u></u><u></u></=
span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u><=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">If it=E2=80=99s leaki=
ng from the front, it=E2=80=99s quite likely it=E2=80=99s not the oil pan b=
ut rather the front engine plate. While it=E2=80=99s something like 3/16=E2=
=80=9D steel, they can suffer from over-torquing and warp. Even though ther=
e=E2=80=99s
 lots of bolts, seeps between them happens. Given the plate ends where the =
oil pan begins, it=E2=80=99s pretty hart to distinguish pan vs. plate. If y=
ou clean things up REALLY well, then run it for a short time, you might be =
able to see which it is. Unfortunately,
 it=E2=80=99s pretty much an engine out to replace, unless you try to suppo=
rt the front of the engine and try to remove it in situ. You could try usin=
g lots of Permatex silicone sealer when you reassemble, or buy a new front =
plate (available new in aluminum). If you
 convince yourself it=E2=80=99s the pan, you could also purchase an aluminu=
m one. It has a thick flat block mating surface. Good luck!<u></u><u></u></=
span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u><=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">Joel Justin=E2=80=A6<=
u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9954 TR2<u></u=
><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9958 10 Estate=
<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9860 TR3A<u></=
u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9961 TR4<u></u=
><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9965 2000 Salo=
on<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt">=E2=80=9971 GT6<u></u=
><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u><=
/span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u><=
/span></p>
</div>

<span>** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">trium=
[email-masked]</a> **</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=
=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/=
donate.html</a></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pip=
ermail/triumphs" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</=
a> =C2=A0<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://w=
ww.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage=
: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar@yaho=
o.com" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/not=
[email-masked]</a></span><br></div></div></div><br><br><br>---------- Fo=
rwarded message ----------<br>From:=C2=A0Cliff Hansen &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&g=
t;<br>To:=C2=A0William Brewer &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
 target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, Triumph List &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
et</a>&gt;<br>Cc:=C2=A0<br>Bcc:=C2=A0<br>Date:=C2=A0Fri, 29 Jul 2022 14:50:=
59 +0000<br>Subject:=C2=A0Re: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage<br>

<div lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word;">
<div class=3D"gmail-m_4073331902144326370WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Bill,</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Following.</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">I replaced the pan gasket on my TR4A about a year ag=
o. I carefully leveled the mating surface using a dolly then a file, new ga=
sket with Permatex #2, and actually used a in-lb torque wrench. Before it l=
eaked moderately from the pan-to-block
 join. Now it leaks slooowly, accumulating a drop at almost every bolt head=
, even the bolts that don=E2=80=99t pass into the interior of the engine. I=
t=E2=80=99s frustrating because I=E2=80=99ve managed to solve every other l=
eak.</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Cliff</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Sent from <a href=3D"https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink=
/?LinkId=3D550986" target=3D"_blank">
Mail</a> for Windows</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
<div style=3D"border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:none;border-=
top:1pt solid rgb(225,225,225);padding:3pt 0in 0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"border:none;padding:0in"><b>From: </b><a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">William Brewer</a><b=
r>
<b>Sent: </b>Thursday, July 28, 2022 8:19 PM<br>
<b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">Tri=
umph List</a><br>
<b>Subject: </b>[TR] TR3 Oil Pan Leakage</p>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I have been trying to get t=
he oil pan to quit being so leaky for
<br>
over 30 years and two engine rebuilds now. I made sure that the bolt <br>
holes in the pan are lower than the mounting surface. I check the pan <br>
fit with a feeler gauge with no gasket. I get everything cleaned off. I <br=
have tried Permatex, Aviation Permatex and Hylomar Blue. I have used the <b=
r>
recommended torques. Still slowly seeping and dripping over time. It <br>
seems worse in the front that the rear and no the front aluminum sealing <b=
r>
block isn&#39;t stripped out.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I have family members asking me not to bring=
 the TR3 and Morgan <br>
over to their houses because of the amount of drips.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I have looking over the &quot;Triumph Experi=
ence&quot; website and it looks <br>
like most owners there have thrown their hands up and given up. Either <br>
that or the ones that say that they are drip free probably haven&#39;t <br>
driven their cars much.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I&#39;ve considered CNC&#39;ing a 3/8&quot; =
steel mounting flange, welding that <br>
to the top of the oil sump (the weld would seal on the inside) and then <br=
torquing that sonofabitch down tight with permatex on it. No more <br>
worrying about flange distortion.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I&#39;ve also considered making a sheet meta=
l &quot;catch box&quot; that would <br>
mount under the pan and completely enclose it to catch drips. It could <br>
be held on with 4 bolts and removed/cleaned out at oil changes. I should <b=
r>
make a long aluminum drip pan that goes under the sump, rear seal and <br>
transmission.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Anyone ever get there TR2/3/4 oil pans to st=
ay drip free?<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 -Bill Brewer<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Morro Bay, CA<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triumphs@au=
tox.team.net</a> **<br>
<br>
//www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" target=3D"_blan=
k">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=C2=A0
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.n=
et/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a>=
<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
</div>
</div>

<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From:=C2=A0DAVE HOGY=
E &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">dlhogye@comc=
ast.net</a>&gt;<br>To:=C2=A0Frank Magnusson &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fmags@cox=
.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@a=
utox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>Cc:=C2=A0<b=
r>Bcc:=C2=A0<br>Date:=C2=A0Fri, 29 Jul 2022 08:26:43 -0700 (PDT)<br>Subject=
:=C2=A0Re: [TR] valve ticking<br>It is common for some rocker arms to wear =
heavily, (do to the hardness factor variation) where they touch the valve t=
ip.=C2=A0 So, an accurate valve adjustment is nearly impossible.=C2=A0 You&=
#39;d have to have a very slim feeler gauge to adjust them correctly.=C2=A0=
 Basically the standard feeler gauge will bridge the wear area of the rocke=
r and not allow proper measurement.=C2=A0 <br>
Dave H. <br>
<br>
&gt; On 07/28/2022 4:53 PM Frank Magnusson &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fmags@cox.=
net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt;=C2=A0 <br>
&gt; Hi David,<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; It could be several things.=C2=A0 Some light ticking is normal.=C2=A0 =
<br>
&gt; You might try an oil additive.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve used Marvel Mystery =
oil with every oil chnage for many years and I first started using it after=
 I had a sticking valve on a Chevy Impala at the suggestion of a mechanic a=
nd it freed that sticking valve right up.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve used it ever s=
ince.<br>
&gt; It could also be your valves needing adjustment, but it sounds like yo=
u=E2=80=99ve done that.=C2=A0 You might recheck it to make sure that an adj=
ustment nut didn=E2=80=99t come loose.<br>
&gt; Lastly, pull the valve cover off and make sure that you dont have a br=
oken valve spring.<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 I had a light valve ticking on my GT6, which sounded different t=
han usual and it turned out to be a broken valve spring.=C2=A0 <br>
&gt; Hope this helps,<br>
&gt; Frank<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Sent from my iPad<br>
&gt; ** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triump=
[email-masked]</a> **<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
 target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
&gt; Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=C2=A0=
 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blan=
k">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/t=
riumphs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://au=
tox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From:=C2=A0dave nort=
hrup &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">dave@ranteer=
.com</a>&gt;<br>To:=C2=A0&quot;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" t=
arget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&quot; &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tr=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br=
>Cc:=C2=A0<br>Bcc:=C2=A0<br>Date:=C2=A0Fri, 29 Jul 2022 16:55:01 +0000<br>S=
ubject:=C2=A0Re: [TR] valve ticking<br>Something to check:=C2=A0 if you tig=
hten the valve cover too much it will bend it down to where the rockers hit=
 it<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
Triumphs mailing list<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">Triumphs@autox=
.team.net</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs</a><b=
r>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr"=
 class=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Brian Schirano<div>585-305-0349=
</div></div></div></div>

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