Subject: Re: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.

From: Dave Connitt <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 05:26:39 -0500

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Hello Guy,
That is a tough one. Have you considered talking this over with  the machini=
st that did your cylinder head as he may have come across this type of issue=
 before. I agree with you that locating and holding the X, Y and Z positions=
 of the repair is critical.=20
Best of luck to you.
Dave Connitt=20

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 11, 2021, at 6:35 PM, Guy Huggins <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BFHowdy All,
>=20
> As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a wallowed-=
out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block.
> (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the o=
ne furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.)
>=20
> A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even w=
ith the block, but it wiggles like hell.
> As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but th=
e whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block.
> This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud.
>=20
> To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert.  (drill just 1/32=E2=80=9D=
 oversized, tap, install insert).
> I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for t=
he drilling phase.
> I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying d=
evice of some sort.
>=20
> Any and all tips and advice are welcome.
>=20
> The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4=E2=
=80=9D.
> It is basically threaded top to bottom.
>=20
> Thanks in advance.
> I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing.
>=20
>=20
> Kind Regards,
>=20
> Guy D. Huggins
> [email-masked]
> 817.454.6415
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> ** [email-masked] **
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archi=
ve
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnit=
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Hello Guy,<div>That is a tough one. Have yo=
u considered talking this over with &nbsp;the machinist that did your cylind=
er head as he may have come across this type of issue before. I agree with y=
ou that locating and holding the X, Y and Z positions of the repair is criti=
cal.&nbsp;</div><div>Best of luck to you.</div><div>Dave Connitt&nbsp;<br><b=
r><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote=
 type=3D"cite">On Dec 11, 2021, at 6:35 PM, Guy Huggins &lt;guy.huggins@iclo=
ud.com&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div d=
ir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; c=
harset=3Dutf-8">Howdy All,<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D=
"">As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a wallowed=
-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block.</div><div class=3D""=
>(If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the o=
ne furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.)</div><div class=3D""><br c=
lass=3D""></div><div class=3D"">A stud goes in straight up and down until th=
e top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles like hell.</div=
><div class=3D"">As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to g=
o away, but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block=
.</div><div class=3D"">This make it impossible to slide the head down over t=
he canted stud.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">To=
 fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. &nbsp;(drill just 1/32=E2=80=9D=
 oversized, tap, install insert).</div><div class=3D"">I am hoping that some=
one from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase.</div=
><div class=3D"">I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron withou=
t a steadying device of some sort.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div=
><div class=3D"">Any and all tips and advice are welcome.</div><div class=3D=
""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, an=
d the threads of the stud measure 3/4=E2=80=9D.</div><div class=3D"">It is b=
asically threaded top to bottom.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><=
div class=3D"">Thanks in advance.</div><div class=3D"">I hate it when you ha=
ve to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing.</div><div class=3D""><br=
 class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><div c=
lass=3D"">
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start=
; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing:=
 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mo=
de: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D""><div style=3D"word-wra=
p: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" cla=
ss=3D""><div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size=
: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; l=
etter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: n=
one; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;=
">Kind Regards,<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Guy D. Huggins<br class=3D""><a=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a=
><br class=3D"">817.454.6415</div><div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-fa=
mily: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: nor=
mal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-in=
dent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; -we=
bkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><br class=3D"A=
pple-interchange-newline"></div></div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline=
"><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">
</div>
<br class=3D""></div><span>** [email-masked] **</span><br><span></s=
pan><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Archiv=
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From: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 06:28:15 -0500

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I've been thinking of a flat plate with a tube welded to it.  Tube has the
ID of the drill you intend to use.  Put holes in the plate such that it can
be bolted to the good holes in the block.  Length of tube determines depth
of hole.

Kind of expensive for a solution you only need once....

If you had some help, a couple of machinist squares could guide you, and
tape on the bit controls depth.  If you're slightly off, you put that stud
in after the head is on.

On Sat, Dec 11, 2021, 18:35 Guy Huggins <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Howdy All,
>
> As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a
> wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block.
> (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the
> one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.)
>
> A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even
> with the block, but it wiggles like hell.
> As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but
> the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block.
> To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert.  (drill just 1/32=E2=80=
=9D
> I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for
> the drilling phase.
> I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying
> device of some sort.
>
> The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4=
=E2=80=9D.
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;ve been thinking of a flat plate with a tube welded=
 to it.=C2=A0 Tube has the ID of the drill you intend to use.=C2=A0 Put hol=
es in the plate such that it can be bolted to the good holes in the block.=
=C2=A0 Length of tube determines depth of hole.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>=
<div dir=3D"auto">Kind of expensive for a solution you only need once....</=
div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">If you had some help, a c=
ouple of machinist squares could guide you, and tape on the bit controls de=
pth.=C2=A0 If you&#39;re slightly off, you put that stud in after the head =
is on.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"=
gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 11, 2021, 18:35 Guy Huggins &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:g=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><bloc=
kquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #cc=
c solid;padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word;line-break:aft=
er-white-space">Howdy All,<div><br></div><div>As part the head gasket repla=
cement project, I need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head=
 stud hole in the block.</div><div>(If you were standing on the manifold si=
de of the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on the manif=
old side.)</div><div><br></div><div>A stud goes in straight up and down unt=
il the top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles like hell=
.</div><div>As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go a=
way, but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block.<=
/div><div>This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted st=
ud.</div><div><br></div><div>To fix this I intend to install a coiled inser=
t. =C2=A0(drill just 1/32=E2=80=9D oversized, tap, install insert).</div><d=
iv>I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for=
 the drilling phase.</div><div>I know better than to attempt drilling out c=
ast iron without a steadying device of some sort.</div><div><br></div><div>=
Any and all tips and advice are welcome.</div><div><br></div><div>The hole =
is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4=E2=80=9D.<=
/div><div>It is basically threaded top to bottom.</div><div><br></div><div>=
Thanks in advance.</div><div>I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thi=
ng to fix the known thing.</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);letter-spacing:normal;text-align:start;text-=
indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px;word-wra=
p:break-word;line-break:after-white-space"><div style=3D"word-wrap:break-wo=
rd;line-break:after-white-space"><div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family=
:Helvetica;font-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-w=
eight:normal;letter-spacing:normal;text-align:start;text-indent:0px;text-tr=
ansform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px">Kind Regards,<br><br>Guy =
D. Huggins<br><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" r=
el=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a><br>817.454.6415</div><div styl=
e=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica;font-size:14px;font-style:norma=
l;font-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:normal;text-al=
ign:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spaci=
ng:0px"><br></div><br></div></div><br><br>
</div>
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ank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a> **<br>
<br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
er noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=
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hs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
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From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 14:08:07 +0000

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Guy-

I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled out a cracked=
 block at that location?  That is a common spot for one, usually from someo=
ne in the past who pulled the engine by the studs. At least I had an engine=
 like that.  If you haven't done so, take a very good look at the inside ed=
ge of the threaded hole.  If you see a crack, that helicoil trick likely wo=
n't work.

If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another solution would be =
to take advantage of the deeper hole that you've measured and get a shop to=
 extend the threads of a longer head bolt.  One of the inside longer ones m=
ight work - then shorten the other end to fit.  The puzzling part is why do=
es the stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good.

Randy

________________________________
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Guy Huggins <=
[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM
To: Triumph Mailing List <[email-masked]>
Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need r=
ecommendations on a drill guide/jig.

Howdy All,

As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a wallowed-o=
ut and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block.
(If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the o=
ne furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.)

A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even w=
ith the block, but it wiggles like hell.
As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but the=
 whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block.
This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud.

To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert.  (drill just 1/32=94 overs=
ized, tap, install insert).
I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for th=
e drilling phase.
I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying de=
vice of some sort.

The hole is 1 5/16=94 deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4=94.
It is basically threaded top to bottom.

Thanks in advance.

Kind Regards,

Guy D. Huggins
817.454.6415

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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DWindows-1=
252">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Guy-</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled out a cracked=
 block at that location?&nbsp; That is a common spot for one, usually from =
someone in the past who pulled the engine by the studs. At least I had an e=
ngine like that.&nbsp; If you haven't done
 so, take a very good look at the inside edge of the threaded hole.&nbsp; I=
f you see a crack, that helicoil trick likely won't work.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another solution would be =
to take advantage of the deeper hole that you've measured and get a shop to=
 extend the threads of a longer head bolt.&nbsp; One of the inside longer o=
nes might work - then shorten the other
 end to fit.&nbsp; The puzzling part is why does the stud cant to the rear =
- that doesn't sound good.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Randy</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumphs=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Guy Huggins &lt;guy.huggins@icloud=
.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Triumph Mailing List &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block.=
 Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"" style=3D"word-wrap:break-word; line-break:after-white-space=
">Howdy All,
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to addr=
ess a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block.</div>
<div class=3D"">(If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, i=
t would be the one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.)</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the th=
reads are even with the block, but it wiggles like hell.</div>
<div class=3D"">As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to =
go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the blo=
ck.</div>
<div class=3D"">This make it impossible to slide the head down over the can=
ted stud.</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. &nbsp;(dri=
ll just 1/32=94 oversized, tap, install insert).</div>
<div class=3D"">I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling =
jig/guide for the drilling phase.</div>
<div class=3D"">I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron withou=
t a steadying device of some sort.</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">Any and all tips and advice are welcome.</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">The hole is 1 5/16=94 deep, and the threads of the stud mea=
sure 3/4=94.</div>
<div class=3D"">It is basically threaded top to bottom.</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">Thanks in advance.</div>
<div class=3D"">I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the=
 known thing.</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
</div>
<div class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">
<div class=3D"" style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); letter-spacing:normal; text-alig=
n:start; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-space:normal; word-spa=
cing:0px; word-wrap:break-word; line-break:after-white-space">
<div class=3D"" style=3D"word-wrap:break-word; line-break:after-white-space=
">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Helvetica; font-size:14px; font=
-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-weight:normal; letter-spacing=
:normal; text-align:start; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none; white-spac=
e:normal; word-spacing:0px">
Kind Regards,<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
Guy D. Huggins<br class=3D"">
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]=
</a><br class=3D"">
817.454.6415</div>
<div class=3D"" style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Helvetica; font-size=
:14px; font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal; font-weight:normal; let=
ter-spacing:normal; text-align:start; text-indent:0px; text-transform:none;=
 white-space:normal; word-spacing:0px">
<br class=3D"">
</div>
<br class=3D"x_Apple-interchange-newline">
</div>
</div>
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From: David P <[email-masked]> (ame8.swcp.com [216.184.2.128]); Mon, 13 Dec 2021 07:42:07 -0700 (MST) NO_RELAYS,SPF_PASS version=3.4.1
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 07:42:06 -0700

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... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have purposely 
canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted individually? Anyone?  dp

On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote:
> Guy-
>
> I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled out a 
> cracked block at that location?  That is a common spot for one, 
> usually from someone in the past who pulled the engine by the studs. 
> At least I had an engine like that.  If you haven't done so, take a 
> very good look at the inside edge of the threaded hole.  If you see a 
> crack, that helicoil trick likely won't work.
>
> If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another solution 
> would be to take advantage of the deeper hole that you've measured and 
> get a shop to extend the threads of a longer head bolt.  One of the 
> inside longer ones might work - then shorten the other end to fit.  
> The puzzling part is why does the stud cant to the rear - that doesn't 
> sound good.
>
> Randy
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Guy 
> Huggins <[email-masked]>
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM
> *To:* Triumph Mailing List <[email-masked]>
> *Subject:* [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. 
> Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.
> Howdy All,
>
> (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be 
> the one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.)
>
> A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are 
> even with the block, but it wiggles like hell.
> As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, 
> but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block.
> To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert.  (drill just 1/32” 
> I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide 
> for the drilling phase.
> I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a 
> steadying device of some sort.
>
> The hole is 1 5/16” deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4”.
> [email-masked]  **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
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    <p>... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have
      purposely canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted
      individually? Anyone?  dp <br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and
      Valerie DeRuiter wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <style type="text/css" style="display:none;">P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}</style>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        Guy-</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled
        out a cracked block at that location?  That is a common spot for
        one, usually from someone in the past who pulled the engine by
        the studs. At least I had an engine like that.  If you haven't
        done so, take a very good look at the inside edge of the
        threaded hole.  If you see a crack, that helicoil trick likely
        won't work.</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another
        solution would be to take advantage of the deeper hole that
        you've measured and get a shop to extend the threads of a longer
        head bolt.  One of the inside longer ones might work - then
        shorten the other end to fit.  The puzzling part is why does the
        stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good.</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        Randy</div>
      <div>
        <div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;
          font-size:12pt; color:rgb(0,0,0)">
          <br>
        </div>
        <hr tabindex="-1" style="display:inline-block; width:98%">
        <div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
            face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
            Triumphs <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> on behalf
            of Guy Huggins <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
            <b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM<br>
            <b>To:</b> Triumph Mailing List
            <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
            <b>Subject:</b> [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud
            hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.</font>
          <div> </div>
        </div>
        <div class="" style="word-wrap:break-word;
          line-break:after-white-space">Howdy All,
          <div class=""><br class="">
          </div>
          <div class="">As part the head gasket replacement project, I
            need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head
            stud hole in the block.</div>
          <div class="">(If you were standing on the manifold side of
            the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on
            the manifold side.)</div>
          <div class=""><br class="">
          </div>
          <div class="">A stud goes in straight up and down until the
            top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles
            like hell.</div>
          <div class="">As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle
            starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back
            toward the rear of the block.</div>
          <div class="">This make it impossible to slide the head down
            over the canted stud.</div>
          <div class=""><br class="">
          </div>
          <div class="">To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert.
             (drill just 1/32” oversized, tap, install insert).</div>
          <div class="">I am hoping that someone from the list knows of
            a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase.</div>
          <div class="">I know better than to attempt drilling out cast
            iron without a steadying device of some sort.</div>
          <div class=""><br class="">
          </div>
          <div class="">Any and all tips and advice are welcome.</div>
          <div class=""><br class="">
          </div>
          <div class="">The hole is 1 5/16” deep, and the threads of the
            stud measure 3/4”.</div>
          <div class="">It is basically threaded top to bottom.</div>
          <div class=""><br class="">
          </div>
          <div class="">Thanks in advance.</div>
          <div class="">I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing
            to fix the known thing.</div>
          <div class=""><br class="">
          </div>
          <div class=""><br class="">
          </div>
          <div class="">
            <div class="">
              <div class="" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);
                letter-spacing:normal; text-align:start;
                text-indent:0px; text-transform:none;
                white-space:normal; word-spacing:0px;
                word-wrap:break-word; line-break:after-white-space">
                <div class="" style="word-wrap:break-word;
                  line-break:after-white-space">
                  <div style="color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Helvetica;
                    font-size:14px; font-style:normal;
                    font-variant-caps:normal; font-weight:normal;
                    letter-spacing:normal; text-align:start;
                    text-indent:0px; text-transform:none;
                    white-space:normal; word-spacing:0px">
                    Kind Regards,<br class="">
                    <br class="">
                    Guy D. Huggins<br class="">
                    <a href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                      class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
                      moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a><br
                      class="">
                    817.454.6415</div>
                  <div class="" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);
                    font-family:Helvetica; font-size:14px;
                    font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal;
                    font-weight:normal; letter-spacing:normal;
                    text-align:start; text-indent:0px;
                    text-transform:none; white-space:normal;
                    word-spacing:0px">
                    <br class="">
                  </div>
                  <br class="x_Apple-interchange-newline">
                </div>
              </div>
              <br class="x_Apple-interchange-newline">
              <br class="x_Apple-interchange-newline">
            </div>
            <br class="">
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/">WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
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---

From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 15:09:25 +0000 (UTC)

--===============8857874587289347953==
	boundary="----=_Part_518493_357114620.1639408165845"

------=_Part_518493_357114620.1639408165845
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 Yes, they did.=C2=A0 Plus the steel studs in an aluminum head on an engine=
 notorious for leaky head gaskets can make for a very difficult head remova=
l.=C2=A0 The Wedge club has a special tool to assist in head removal if any=
one encounters this issue.=C2=A0 Yet another reason to join.
Back to our regularly scheduled program.
Drilling the hole true (90 deg) is important but more so is getting the tap=
 started true.=C2=A0 I typically use a tap guide.=C2=A0 This is an aluminum=
 block with critically sized holes drilled true (using a drill press) that =
will keep the tap aligned whilst getting started.=C2=A0 Square tubing can a=
lso be used.
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: David P <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Sent: Mon, Dec 13, 2021 8:42 am
Subject: Re: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Ne=
ed recommendations on a drill guide/jig.

 ... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have purposely ca=
nted head studs that had to be removed/inserted individually? Anyone?=C2=A0=
 dp=20
  On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote:
 =20
=20
#yiv5394862257 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} Guy- =20
   I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled out a crac=
ked block at that location?=C2=A0 That is a common spot for one, usually fr=
om someone in the past who pulled the engine by the studs. At least I had a=
n engine like that.=C2=A0 If you haven't done so, take a very good look at =
the inside edge of the threaded hole.=C2=A0 If you see a crack, that helico=
il trick likely won't work. =20
   If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another solution would =
be to take advantage of the deeper hole that you've measured and get a shop=
 to extend the threads of a longer head bolt.=C2=A0 One of the inside longe=
r ones might work - then shorten the other end to fit.=C2=A0 The puzzling p=
art is why does the stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good. =20
   Randy  =20
   From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Guy Huggin=
s <[email-masked]>
 Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM
 To: Triumph Mailing List <[email-masked]>
 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need =
recommendations on a drill guide/jig. =C2=A0  Howdy All,=20
  As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a wallowed=
-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block. (If you were standi=
ng on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the one furtherest to th=
e front, on the manifold side.)=20
  A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even=
 with the block, but it wiggles like hell. As you tighten the stud down fur=
ther, the wiggle starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back=
 toward the rear of the block. This make it impossible to slide the head do=
wn over the canted stud.=20
  To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. =C2=A0(drill just 1/32=
=E2=80=9D oversized, tap, install insert). I am hoping that someone from th=
e list knows of a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase. I know better =
than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying device of some s=
ort.=20
  Any and all tips and advice are welcome.=20
  The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4=
=E2=80=9D. It is basically threaded top to bottom.=20
  Thanks in advance. I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fi=
x the known thing.=20
 =20
       Kind Regards,
=20
 Guy D. Huggins
 [email-masked]
 817.454.6415 =20
 =20
  =20
=20
 =20
   =20
 =20
** [email-masked] **Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive=
: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archiveUnsubsc=
ribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye@porters=
custom.com --=20
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My Wo=
rld go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ ** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archiv=
e

[email-masked]

------=_Part_518493_357114620.1639408165845
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size=3D"3">Yes, they did.&nbsp; Plus the steel studs in an alum=
inum head on an engine notorious for leaky head gaskets can make for a very=
 difficult head removal.&nbsp; The Wedge club has a special tool to assist =
in head removal if anyone encounters this issue.&nbsp; Yet another reason t=
o join.</font></div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><font size=3D"3">Back to our regularly scheduled program.</font></div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div><font size=3D"3">Drilling the hole true (90 deg) is important but more=
 so is getting the tap started true.&nbsp; I typically use a tap guide.&nbs=
p; This is an aluminum block with critically sized holes drilled true (usin=
g a drill press) that will keep the tap aligned whilst getting started.&nbs=
p; Square tubing can also be used.</font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"clear:both"><font size=3D"4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
 size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: David P &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: [email-masked]<br>
Sent: Mon, Dec 13, 2021 8:42 am<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Ne=
ed recommendations on a drill guide/jig.<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"yiv5394862257">
<div>
   =20
<div>... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have
      purposely canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted
      individually? Anyone?&nbsp; dp <br clear=3D"none">
    </div>

   =20
<div id=3D"yiv5394862257yqtfd36688" class=3D"yiv5394862257yqt7812892194">
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257moz-cite-prefix">On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy an=
d
      Valerie DeRuiter wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
    </div>

    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
      </blockquote></div>
</div>

<div id=3D"yiv5394862257yqtfd19287" class=3D"yiv5394862257yqt7812892194"><s=
tyle type=3D"text/css">#yiv5394862257 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}</st=
yle></div>

<div>
<div id=3D"yiv5394862257yqtfd93698" class=3D"yiv5394862257yqt7812892194">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        Guy-</div>

     =20
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br clear=3D"none">
      </div>

     =20
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled
        out a cracked block at that location?&nbsp; That is a common spot f=
or
        one, usually from someone in the past who pulled the engine by
        the studs. At least I had an engine like that.&nbsp; If you haven't
        done so, take a very good look at the inside edge of the
        threaded hole.&nbsp; If you see a crack, that helicoil trick likely
        won't work.</div>

     =20
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br clear=3D"none">
      </div>

     =20
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another
        solution would be to take advantage of the deeper hole that
        you've measured and get a shop to extend the threads of a longer
        head bolt.&nbsp; One of the inside longer ones might work - then
        shorten the other end to fit.&nbsp; The puzzling part is why does t=
he
        stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good.</div>

     =20
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br clear=3D"none">
      </div>

     =20
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        Randy</div>

     =20
<div>
       =20
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0,0,0);">
          <br clear=3D"none">
        </div>

        <hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%;">
       =20
<div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yiv5394862257divRplyFwdMsg"><font style=3D"font-size=
:11pt;" face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b>
            Triumphs <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect"=
 ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"yiv5394862257moz-txt-l=
ink-rfc2396E">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> on behalf
            of Guy Huggins <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D=
"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"=
mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"yiv5394862257moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"=
>&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br clear=3D"none">
            <b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM<br clear=3D"no=
ne">
            <b>To:</b> Triumph Mailing List
            <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:triump=
[email-masked]" class=3D"yiv5394862257moz-txt-link-rfc2396E">&lt;triumph=
[email-masked]&gt;</a><br clear=3D"none">
            <b>Subject:</b> [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud
            hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.</font=
         =20
<div>&nbsp;</div>

        </div>

       =20
<div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word;" class=3D"yiv5394862257">Howdy All,
         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257"><br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
          </div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">As part the head gasket replacement project, I
            need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head
            stud hole in the block.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">(If you were standing on the manifold side of
            the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on
            the manifold side.)</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257"><br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
          </div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">A stud goes in straight up and down until the
            top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles
            like hell.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">As you tighten the stud down further, the wigg=
le
            starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back
            toward the rear of the block.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">This make it impossible to slide the head down
            over the canted stud.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257"><br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
          </div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">To fix this I intend to install a coiled inser=
t.
            &nbsp;(drill just 1/32=E2=80=9D oversized, tap, install insert)=
.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">I am hoping that someone from the list knows o=
f
            a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">I know better than to attempt drilling out cas=
t
            iron without a steadying device of some sort.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257"><br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
          </div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">Any and all tips and advice are welcome.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257"><br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
          </div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the thre=
ads of the
            stud measure 3/4=E2=80=9D.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">It is basically threaded top to bottom.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257"><br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
          </div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">Thanks in advance.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thi=
ng
            to fix the known thing.</div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257"><br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
          </div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257"><br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
          </div>

         =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">
           =20
<div class=3D"yiv5394862257">
             =20
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);letter-spacing:normal;text-indent:0px;text-t=
ransform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px;word-wrap:break-word;" cl=
ass=3D"yiv5394862257">
               =20
<div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word;" class=3D"yiv5394862257">
                 =20
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica;font-size:14px;font-st=
yle:normal;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:normal;text-indent:0px;text-tr=
ansform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px;">
                    Kind Regards,<br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none"=
                    <br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
                    Guy D. Huggins<br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none=
">
                    <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" =
ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]" class=3D"yiv5394862257moz-txt-link-freetext">guy.hu=
[email-masked]</a><br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
                    817.454.6415</div>

                 =20
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica;font-size:14px;font-st=
yle:normal;font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:normal;text-indent:0px;text-tr=
ansform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px;" class=3D"yiv5394862257">
                    <br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
                  </div>

                  <br class=3D"yiv5394862257x_Apple-interchange-newline" cl=
ear=3D"none">
                </div>

              </div>

              <br class=3D"yiv5394862257x_Apple-interchange-newline" clear=
=3D"none">
              <br class=3D"yiv5394862257x_Apple-interchange-newline" clear=
=3D"none">
            </div>

            <br class=3D"yiv5394862257" clear=3D"none">
          </div>

        </div>

      </div>

      <br clear=3D"none">
      <fieldset class=3D"yiv5394862257moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldse=
t>
      </div>
<pre class=3D"yiv5394862257moz-quote-pre">
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</pre>
   =20
    <pre class=3D"yiv5394862257moz-signature">--=20
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My Wo=
rld go here: <a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" target=
=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://www.porterbikes.com/" class=3D"yiv5394862257moz-=
txt-link-abbreviated">WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
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From: Sujit Roy <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 08:15:49 -0800

--===============0878953363257830506==

--0000000000008ebb6905d3096353
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Canted studs On Stag too. Regarding coiled inserts.  Time Serts are good.
Not cheap though.
Sujit

On Mon, Dec 13, 2021, 6:42 AM David P <[email-masked]> wrote:

> canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted individually? Anyone?  =
dp
> cracked block at that location?  That is a common spot for one, usually
> from someone in the past who pulled the engine by the studs. At least I h=
ad
> an engine like that.  If you haven't done so, take a very good look at th=
e
> inside edge of the threaded hole.  If you see a crack, that helicoil tric=
k
> likely won't work.
>
> If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another solution would b=
e
> to take advantage of the deeper hole that you've measured and get a shop =
to
> extend the threads of a longer head bolt.  One of the inside longer ones
> might work - then shorten the other end to fit.  The puzzling part is why
> does the stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good.
>
> Randy
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <[email-masked]>
> <[email-masked]> on behalf of Guy Huggins
> <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]>
> <[email-masked]>
=9D
=E2=80=9D.
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/arch=
ive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogey=
[email-masked]
>
> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My =
World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

--0000000000008ebb6905d3096353
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Canted studs On Stag too. Regarding coiled inserts.=C2=A0=
 Time Serts are good. Not cheap though.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">Sujit</div><=
/div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">O=
n Mon, Dec 13, 2021, 6:42 AM David P &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:frogeye@portersc=
ustom.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">frogeye@portersc=
ustom.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    <p>... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have
      purposely canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted
      individually? Anyone?=C2=A0 dp <br>
    </p>
    <div>On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and
      Valerie DeRuiter wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
     =20
      <div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
        Guy-</div>
      <div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
        I don&#39;t want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled
        out a cracked block at that location?=C2=A0 That is a common spot f=
or
        one, usually from someone in the past who pulled the engine by
        the studs. At least I had an engine like that.=C2=A0 If you haven&#=
39;t
        done so, take a very good look at the inside edge of the
        threaded hole.=C2=A0 If you see a crack, that helicoil trick likely
        won&#39;t work.</div>
      <div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
        If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another
        solution would be to take advantage of the deeper hole that
        you&#39;ve measured and get a shop to extend the threads of a longe=
r
        head bolt.=C2=A0 One of the inside longer ones might work - then
        shorten the other end to fit.=C2=A0 The puzzling part is why does t=
he
        stud cant to the rear - that doesn&#39;t sound good.</div>
      <div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
        Randy</div>
      <div>
        <div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12=
pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
          <br>
        </div>
        <hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
        <div id=3D"m_8353697190526945515m_-4140325184600644177m_-5309575798=
716590931divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt" face=3D"=
Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b>
            Triumphs <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=
=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">&lt;triumphs-bounce=
[email-masked]&gt;</a> on behalf
            of Guy Huggins <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D=
"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">&lt;guy.huggins@icloud=
.com&gt;</a><br>
            <b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM<br>
            <b>To:</b> Triumph Mailing List
            <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer no=
referrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><=
br>
            <b>Subject:</b> [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud
            hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.</font=
          <div>=C2=A0</div>
        </div>
        <div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">Ho=
wdy All,
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>As part the head gasket replacement project, I
            need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head
            stud hole in the block.</div>
          <div>(If you were standing on the manifold side of
            the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on
            the manifold side.)</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>A stud goes in straight up and down until the
            top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles
            like hell.</div>
          <div>As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle
            starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back
            toward the rear of the block.</div>
          <div>This make it impossible to slide the head down
            over the canted stud.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert.
            =C2=A0(drill just 1/32=E2=80=9D oversized, tap, install insert)=
.</div>
          <div>I am hoping that someone from the list knows of
            a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase.</div>
          <div>I know better than to attempt drilling out cast
            iron without a steadying device of some sort.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>Any and all tips and advice are welcome.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of the
            stud measure 3/4=E2=80=9D.</div>
          <div>It is basically threaded top to bottom.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>Thanks in advance.</div>
          <div>I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing
            to fix the known thing.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>
            <div>
              <div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);letter-spacing:normal;text-ali=
gn:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacin=
g:0px;word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">
                <div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-s=
pace">
                  <div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica;font=
-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:normal;le=
tter-spacing:normal;text-align:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;wh=
ite-space:normal;word-spacing:0px">
                    Kind Regards,<br>
                    <br>
                    Guy D. Huggins<br>
                    <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br=
                    817.454.6415</div>
                  <div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica;font=
-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:normal;le=
tter-spacing:normal;text-align:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;wh=
ite-space:normal;word-spacing:0px">
                    <br>
                  </div>
                  <br>
                </div>
              </div>
              <br>
              <br>
            </div>
            <br>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset></fieldset>
      <pre>** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer =
noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a> **

errer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
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riumphs</a>  <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer nore=
ferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a>

hs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" targ=
et=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye@porter=
scustom.com</a>
</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre cols=3D"72">--=20
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My Wo=
rld go here: <a href=3D"http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/" rel=3D"noreferrer nore=
ferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
  </div>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer =
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a> **<br>
<br>
errer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.h=
tml</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
er noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/=
pipermail/triumphs</a>=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D=
"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.=
team.net/archive</a><br>
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hs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferre=
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---

From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 09:52:07 -0800

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--===============7820952808918435911==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0009_01D7F007.18E4E3D0"
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------=_NextPart_000_0009_01D7F007.18E4E3D0
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I had a catastrophic driveline failure on a TR3 a few years back =
=E2=80=93 ring and pinion ate itself and locked up.. transmission ate =
2nd gear on main and layshaft and=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6.front main bearing =
bolt on manifold side of motor sheared.  This in turn cracked the block =
vertically between the hole for the main bolt and the front manifold =
side stud.  I imagine the entire driveline being =
=E2=80=9Cwhipped=E2=80=9D from rear to front.

=20

Even though we were able to get the broken bolt extracted, the block was =
junk. =20

=20

Similar thing happed (motor only) on a friends TR2 powered Morgan.  Ken =
Gillanders was able to salvage that one.

=20

From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Dave =
Connitt
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2021 2:27 AM
To: Guy Huggins <[email-masked]>
Cc: Triumph Mailing List <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. =
Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.

=20

Hello Guy,

That is a tough one. Have you considered talking this over with  the =
machinist that did your cylinder head as he may have come across this =
type of issue before. I agree with you that locating and holding the X, =
Y and Z positions of the repair is critical.=20

Best of luck to you.

Dave Connitt=20

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 11, 2021, at 6:35 PM, Guy Huggins <[email-masked] =

=EF=BB=BFHowdy All,

=20

As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a =
wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block.

(If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be =
the one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.)

=20

A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are =
even with the block, but it wiggles like hell.

As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but =
the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block.

=20

To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert.  (drill just =
1/32=E2=80=9D oversized, tap, install insert).

I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for =
the drilling phase.

I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying =
device of some sort.

=20

=20

The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of the stud measure =
3/4=E2=80=9D.

=20

Thanks in advance.

=20

=20

Kind Regards,

Guy D. Huggins
817.454.6415

=20

=20

=20

=20

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  =

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>I had a catastrophic driveline =
failure on a TR3 a few years back =E2=80=93 ring and pinion ate itself =
and locked up.. transmission ate 2<sup>nd</sup> gear on main and =
layshaft and=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6.front main bearing bolt on manifold side =
of motor sheared.=C2=A0 This in turn cracked the block vertically =
between the hole for the main bolt and the front manifold side =
stud.=C2=A0 I imagine the entire driveline being =
=E2=80=9Cwhipped=E2=80=9D from rear to front.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Even though =
we were able to get the broken bolt extracted, the block was junk.=C2=A0 =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Similar thing happed (motor only) on a friends TR2 =
powered Morgan.=C2=A0 Ken Gillanders was able to salvage that =
one.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Triumphs =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Dave =
Connitt<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, December 13, 2021 2:27 AM<br><b>To:</b> =
Guy Huggins &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> Triumph Mailing =
List &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] 1965 =
TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations =
on a drill guide/jig.<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Hello =
Guy,<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>That is a tough one. Have =
you considered talking this over with &nbsp;the machinist that did your =
cylinder head as he may have come across this type of issue before. I =
agree with you that locating and holding the X, Y and Z positions of the =
repair is critical.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Best of luck to you.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Dave =
Connitt&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sent from my =
iPhone<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>On Dec 11, 2021, at 6:35 PM, Guy Huggins =
&lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>=EF=BB=BFHowdy All,<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to =
address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the =
block.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>(If you were =
standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the one =
furtherest to the front, on the manifold =
side.)<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>A =
stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even =
with the block, but it wiggles like hell.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle =
starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the =
rear of the block.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>This =
make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted =
stud.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. =
&nbsp;(drill just 1/32=E2=80=9D oversized, tap, install =
insert).<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I am hoping that =
someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for the drilling =
phase.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I know better than =
to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying device of some =
sort.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Any and all tips and advice are =
welcome.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of =
the stud measure 3/4=E2=80=9D.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>It is basically threaded top to =
bottom.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks in advance.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to =
fix the known thing.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><div><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'=
>Kind Regards,<br><br>Guy D. Huggins<br><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>817.=
454.6415<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal>** <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> =
**<br><br>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><br>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/piper=
mail/triumphs</a> &nbsp;<a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br><=
br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]"=
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><o:p=
></o:p></p></div></blockquote></div></div></body></html>
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---

From: jerry van vlack <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 19:29:09 -0500

--===============7432565332886821788==
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<html xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w=3D"urn:sc=
hemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/of=
fice/2004/12/omml" xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta ht=
tp-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta name=
=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3D"#954F72" style=3D=
'word-wrap:break-word'><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>I hav=
e a bit of machining experience and I would not attempt this on my own. I=
=E2=80=99m guessing that the oil pan flange and the head are parallel; they=
 certainly should be. A machinist can take the block and set it on a mill o=
r drill press table which should be perpendicular to the drill axis and dri=
ll the hole oversize to accept the insert of your choice. But as another sa=
id have the block checked to be certain the current hole is not cracked. Fi=
x it correctly and don=E2=80=99t look back. </p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&=
nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Another method might be to use a magnet=
ic drill base set up on the block surface making certain the drill is perpe=
ndicular to the block face. Positioning the drill correctly will take some =
skill that a good machinist would have.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;=
</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>JVV </p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:=
p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sent from <a href=3D"https://go.microsoft.com/fw=
link/?LinkId=3D550986">Mail</a> for Windows</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></p><div style=3D'mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-=
top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal sty=
le=3D'border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:dconnitt@fuse=
.net">Dave Connitt</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Monday, December 13, 2021 6:22 PM<br=
><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Guy Huggins</a><br><b=
>Cc: </b><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Triumph Mailing List</a=
><br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole =
in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.</p></div><p class=3DMs=
oNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Hello Guy,<o:p></o:p></p>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal>That is a tough one. Have you considered talking =
this over with &nbsp;the machinist that did your cylinder head as he may ha=
ve come across this type of issue before. I agree with you that locating an=
d holding the X, Y and Z positions of the repair is critical.&nbsp;<o:p></o=
:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Best of luck to you.<o:p></o:p></p><=
/div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Dave Connitt&=
nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sent from my iPhone<o:p></o:p=
></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><blockquote sty=
le=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'm=
argin-bottom:12.0pt'>On Dec 11, 2021, at 6:35 PM, Guy Huggins &lt;guy.huggi=
[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div><blockquote style=
=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>=EF=BB=
=BFHowdy All,<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>As part the head gasket replacement project=
, I need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in =
the block.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>(If you were stand=
ing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the one furtherest to t=
he front, on the manifold side.)<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNor=
mal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>A stud goes in str=
aight up and down until the top of the threads are even with the block, but=
 it wiggles like hell.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>As you=
 tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but the whole=
 thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block.<o:p></o:p></p></di=
v><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>This make it impossible to slide the head down =
over the canted stud.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>To fix this I intend to insta=
ll a coiled insert. &nbsp;(drill just 1/32=E2=80=9D oversized, tap, install=
 insert).<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I am hoping that so=
meone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase.<o=
:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I know better than to attempt =
drilling out cast iron without a steadying device of some sort.<o:p></o:p><=
/p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=
=3DMsoNormal>Any and all tips and advice are welcome.<o:p></o:p></p></div><=
div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNorm=
al>The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/=
4=E2=80=9D.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>It is basically t=
hreaded top to bottom.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&=
nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks in advance.<o:p></o:p=
></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I hate it when you have to fix the unk=
nown thing to fix the known thing.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoN=
ormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p=
></p></div><div><div><div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'fon=
t-size:10.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'>Kind Regards,=
<br><br>Guy D. Huggins<br><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">guy.hug=
[email-masked]</a><br>817.454.6415<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p clas=
s=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-=
serif;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><=
span style=3D'color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=
=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div></blockquote></div><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:0in;margin-right:.5in;margin-bot=
tom:5.0pt;margin-left:.5in'>** [email-masked] **<br><br>Donate: ht=
tp://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tri=
umphs &nbsp;http://www.team.net/archive<br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://a=
utox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]<o:p></o:p></p><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>=

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