Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.

From: Guy Huggins <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2021 17:28:57 -0600

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Howdy All,

As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a =
wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block.
(If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be =
the one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.)

A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are =
even with the block, but it wiggles like hell.
As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but =
the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block.
This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud.

To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert.  (drill just 1/32=E2=80=9D=
 oversized, tap, install insert).
I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for =
the drilling phase.
I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying =
device of some sort.

Any and all tips and advice are welcome.

The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of the stud measure =
3/4=E2=80=9D.
It is basically threaded top to bottom.

Thanks in advance.
I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing.

Kind Regards,

Guy D. Huggins
[email-masked]
817.454.6415

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charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">Howdy=
 All,<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">As part the =
head gasket replacement project, I need to address a wallowed-out and =
stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block.</div><div class=3D"">(If =
you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the =
one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.)</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">A stud goes in straight =
up and down until the top of the threads are even with the block, but it =
wiggles like hell.</div><div class=3D"">As you tighten the stud down =
further, the wiggle starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to =
cant back toward the rear of the block.</div><div class=3D"">This make =
it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">To fix this I intend to =
install a coiled insert. &nbsp;(drill just 1/32=E2=80=9D oversized, tap, =
install insert).</div><div class=3D"">I am hoping that someone from the =
list knows of a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase.</div><div =
class=3D"">I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without =
a steadying device of some sort.</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Any and all tips and advice are =
welcome.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">The =
hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of the stud measure =
3/4=E2=80=9D.</div><div class=3D"">It is basically threaded top to =
bottom.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Thanks =
in advance.</div><div class=3D"">I hate it when you have to fix the =
unknown thing to fix the known thing.</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><div=
 class=3D"">
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); letter-spacing: normal; text-align: =
start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; word-wrap: =
break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D""><div style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: =
space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D""><div style=3D"color: =
rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; font-style: =
normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: =
normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; =
white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px;">Kind Regards,<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Guy D. Huggins<br =
class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a><br class=3D"">817.454.6415</div><div=
 style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; =
font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; =
letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"></div></div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">
</div>
<br class=3D""></div></body></html>=

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From: dave northrup <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 21:48:42 +0000

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From: Tony Drews <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 15:56:28 -0600

Don't deck a wet liner block unless you want to deal with shaving 
pistons / liners to keep things sealing and not hitting the head...

Cheers, Tony

On 12/14/2021 3:48 PM, dave northrup wrote:
> Just a thought,  Guy.  This might be a good time to bring in a machine 
> shop.   And you might want to have the block magna fluxed to see if 
> there are any cracks.   And,  maybe have it decked to get a little 
> more compression
>
>
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