Subject: Re: [TR] Engine Starting Issue...

From: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 18:27:48 -0400

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Carb diaphragms?

90% of carb problems are electric, and 90% of ignition problems are fuel
related.

Step back, take a breather, and check the basics.  Got compression?  Got
sufficient fuel delivery?  Got spark at the right time?

On Fri, Aug 27, 2021, 15:10 Joel Justin <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Hi everyone. This is my first time posting a question. I've got a 1965
> Triumph 2000 Mk1 Saloon. The engine is basically a GT6 2 liter with dual
> Stromberg CD150 carbs. I have a starting issue and I'd like to tap into t=
he
> wisdom of this group. When I first go to start the car, I give it a littl=
e
> choke, pump the accelerator once or twice and leave it at about half
> throttle, and turn the key. The car always starts right up, even if it's
> been sitting for a month. But if I pull it out into the driveway, and tur=
n
> it off (or stall it =F0=9F=98=89), then try to restart it, it struggles. =
It cranks
> and cranks with the RPMs increasing like it's thinking about starting, an=
d
> sometimes it does, but others, it takes several cycles of that before it
> starts. The warmer the engine, the harder it is to restart. If I let it
> cool for say a half hour, it starts right up again. The carbs were rebuil=
t
> about a year ago (this happened before and after the rebuild). I've
> replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one thinking it might =
be
> a weak fuel pump, but that didn't solve it. I improved my grounding to
> ensure I wasn't stealing coil voltage for the starter, and I even replace=
d
> the starter with a high-torque version to get a higher spin rate. None of
> this helped. I thought vapor lock might be the issue (I also installed a
> head shield for the carbs), but it happens when it's cold too. The only
> thing left I can think of is that the carbs are flooding. But when I
> rebuilt them, I was careful to set the float height. Before I pull the
> carbs to check/adjust, does anyone have any suggestions on what might be
> causing this?
>
> Thanks, Joel Justin...
> 1954 TR2
> 1958 10 Estate
> 1960 TR3A
> 1961 TR4
> 1965 2000
> 1971 GT6
>
> ** [email-masked] **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"auto">Carb diaphragms?=C2=A0=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><=
div dir=3D"auto">90% of carb problems are electric, and 90% of ignition pro=
blems are fuel related.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=
Step back, take a breather, and check the basics.=C2=A0 Got compression?=C2=
=A0 Got sufficient fuel delivery?=C2=A0 Got spark at the right time?</div><=
/div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">O=
n Fri, Aug 27, 2021, 15:10 Joel Justin &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:j_bar_j@hotmai=
l.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gma=
il_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-lef=
t:1ex">

<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Hi everyone. This is my first time posting a question. I&#39;ve got a 1965 =
Triumph 2000 Mk1 Saloon. The engine is basically a GT6 2 liter with dual St=
romberg CD150 carbs. I have a starting issue and I&#39;d like to tap into t=
he wisdom of this group. When I first go
 to start the car, I give it a little choke, pump the accelerator once or t=
wice and leave it at about half throttle, and turn the key. The car always =
starts right up, even if it&#39;s been sitting for a month. But if I pull i=
t out into the driveway, and turn it
 off (or stall it =F0=9F=98=89), then try to restart it, it struggles. It c=
ranks and cranks with the RPMs increasing like it&#39;s thinking about star=
ting, and sometimes it does, but others, it takes several cycles of that be=
fore it starts. The warmer the engine, the harder
 it is to restart. If I let it cool for say a half hour, it starts right up=
 again. The carbs were rebuilt about a year ago (this happened before and a=
fter the rebuild). I&#39;ve replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an elect=
ric one thinking it might be a weak
 fuel pump, but that didn&#39;t solve it. I improved my grounding to ensure=
 I wasn&#39;t stealing coil voltage for the starter, and I even replaced th=
e starter with a high-torque version to get a higher spin rate. None of thi=
s helped. I thought vapor lock might be
 the issue (I also installed a head shield for the carbs), but it happens w=
hen it&#39;s cold too. The only thing left I can think of is that the carbs=
 are flooding. But when I rebuilt them, I was careful to set the float heig=
ht. Before I pull the carbs to check/adjust,
 does anyone have any suggestions on what might be causing this?</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Thanks, Joel Justin...</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1954 TR2</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1958 10 Estate</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1960 TR3A</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1961 TR4</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1965 2000</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
1971 GT6</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:14pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
</div>

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</blockquote></div>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 18:29:29 -0400

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P.S.  With a Stromberg carb, there's no accelerator pump.  So giving the
pedal a couple of pumps really doesn't do anything.   But it is a ritual as
old as time, and it doesn't hurt either.

On Fri, Aug 27, 2021, 18:27 Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]> wrote:

>> Stromberg CD150 carbs. I have a starting issue and I'd like to tap into =
the
>> wisdom of this group. When I first go to start the car, I give it a litt=
le
>> been sitting for a month. But if I pull it out into the driveway, and tu=
rn
>> it off (or stall it =F0=9F=98=89), then try to restart it, it struggles.=
 It cranks
>> and cranks with the RPMs increasing like it's thinking about starting, a=
nd
>> cool for say a half hour, it starts right up again. The carbs were rebui=
lt
>> replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one thinking it might=
 be
>> ensure I wasn't stealing coil voltage for the starter, and I even replac=
ed
>> the starter with a high-torque version to get a higher spin rate. None o=
f
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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<div dir=3D"auto">P.S.=C2=A0 With a Stromberg carb, there&#39;s no accelera=
tor pump.=C2=A0 So giving the pedal a couple of pumps really doesn&#39;t do=
 anything.=C2=A0 =C2=A0But it is a ritual as old as time, and it doesn&#39;=
t hurt either.</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Aug 27, 2021, 18:27 Jeff Scarbrough &lt;<a href=3D"=
mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><bl=
ockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #=
ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Carb diaphragms?=C2=A0=C2=A0<=
div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">90% of carb problems are elect=
ric, and 90% of ignition problems are fuel related.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
<br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Step back, take a breather, and check the basic=
s.=C2=A0 Got compression?=C2=A0 Got sufficient fuel delivery?=C2=A0 Got spa=
rk at the right time?</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D=
"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Aug 27, 2021, 15:10 Joel Justin &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">j_b=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">

<div dir=3D"ltr">

** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer"=
 target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a> **<br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
er noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/t=
riumphs</a>=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer=
 noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><b=
r>
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hs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"=
_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]<=
/a><br>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>

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From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 22:37:35 +0000 (UTC)

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It is acting like it is too rich/flooding.=C2=A0 There may be debris in the=
 needle valve(s) that is preventing the float closing off fuel flow all tog=
ether.=C2=A0 Or the carbs are just wet too rich.=C2=A0 The base of the need=
le assembly should be flush with the bottom of the piston as a starting poi=
nt.=C2=A0=20
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Joel Justin <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Sent: Fri, Aug 27, 2021 2:09 pm
Subject: [TR] Engine Starting Issue...

 #yiv1261382333 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}Hi everyone. This is my fi=
rst time posting a question. I've got a 1965 Triumph 2000 Mk1 Saloon. The e=
ngine is basically a GT6 2 liter with dual Stromberg CD150 carbs. I have a =
starting issue and I'd like to tap into the wisdom of this group. When I fi=
rst go to start the car, I give it a little choke, pump the accelerator onc=
e or twice and leave it at about half throttle, and turn the key. The car a=
lways starts right up, even if it's been sitting for a month. But if I pull=
 it out into the driveway, and turn it off (or stall it =F0=9F=98=89), then=
 try to restart it, it struggles. It cranks and cranks with the RPMs increa=
sing like it's thinking about starting, and sometimes it does, but others, =
it takes several cycles of that before it starts. The warmer the engine, th=
e harder it is to restart. If I let it cool for say a half hour, it starts =
right up again. The carbs were rebuilt about a year ago (this happened befo=
re and after the rebuild). I've replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an e=
lectric one thinking it might be a weak fuel pump, but that didn't solve it=
. I improved my grounding to ensure I wasn't stealing coil voltage for the =
starter, and I even replaced the starter with a high-torque version to get =
a higher spin rate. None of this helped. I thought vapor lock might be the =
issue (I also installed a head shield for the carbs), but it happens when i=
t's cold too. The only thing left I can think of is that the carbs are floo=
ding. But when I rebuilt them, I was careful to set the float height. Befor=
e I pull the carbs to check/adjust, does anyone have any suggestions on wha=
t might be causing this?
Thanks, Joel Justin...1954 TR21958 10 Estate1960 TR3A1961 TR41965 20001971 =
GT6
** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archiv=
e

[email-masked]

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<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div><font size=3D"3">It is acting like it is too rich/flooding.&nbsp; Ther=
e may be debris in the needle valve(s) that is preventing the float closing=
 off fuel flow all together.&nbsp; Or the carbs are just wet too rich.&nbsp=
; The base of the needle assembly should be flush with the bottom of the pi=
ston as a starting point.&nbsp; </font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"clear:both"><font size=3D"4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
 size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Joel Justin &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Fri, Aug 27, 2021 2:09 pm<br>
Subject: [TR] Engine Starting Issue...<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"yiv1261382333">

=20
<style type=3D"text/css">#yiv1261382333 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}</=
style>

<div dir=3D"ltr">

<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:14pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Hi everyone. This is my first time posting a question. I've got a 1965 Triu=
mph 2000 Mk1 Saloon. The engine is basically a GT6 2 liter with dual Stromb=
erg CD150 carbs. I have a starting issue and I'd like to tap into the wisdo=
m of this group. When I first go
 to start the car, I give it a little choke, pump the accelerator once or t=
wice and leave it at about half throttle, and turn the key. The car always =
starts right up, even if it's been sitting for a month. But if I pull it ou=
t into the driveway, and turn it
 off (or stall it =F0=9F=98=89), then try to restart it, it struggles. It c=
ranks and cranks with the RPMs increasing like it's thinking about starting=
, and sometimes it does, but others, it takes several cycles of that before=
 it starts. The warmer the engine, the harder
 it is to restart. If I let it cool for say a half hour, it starts right up=
 again. The carbs were rebuilt about a year ago (this happened before and a=
fter the rebuild). I've replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric =
one thinking it might be a weak
 fuel pump, but that didn't solve it. I improved my grounding to ensure I w=
asn't stealing coil voltage for the starter, and I even replaced the starte=
r with a high-torque version to get a higher spin rate. None of this helped=
. I thought vapor lock might be
 the issue (I also installed a head shield for the carbs), but it happens w=
hen it's cold too. The only thing left I can think of is that the carbs are=
 flooding. But when I rebuilt them, I was careful to set the float height. =
Before I pull the carbs to check/adjust,
 does anyone have any suggestions on what might be causing this?</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:14pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>

</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:14pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Thanks, Joel Justin...</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:14pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1954 TR2</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:14pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1958 10 Estate</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:14pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1960 TR3A</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:14pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1961 TR4</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:14pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1965 2000</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:14pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1971 GT6</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:14pt;col=
or:rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>

</div>

</div>

</div>
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tox.team.net">[email-masked]</a> **<br>
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//www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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From: John Linney <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2021 15:47:13 -0700

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Hi Joel - It does sound like it=E2=80=99s flooding. It could be that your el=
ectric fuel pump is kicking out too much pressure and overcoming the float v=
alve, unless you have a regulator. The carbs need only 3 or 4 pounds at the m=
ost. I have seen this issue with a friend=E2=80=99s TR6. -john

> On Aug 27, 2021, at 12:10 PM, Joel Justin <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Hi everyone. This is my first time posting a question. I've got a 1965 Tri=
umph 2000 Mk1 Saloon. The engine is basically a GT6 2 liter with dual Stromb=
erg CD150 carbs. I have a starting issue and I'd like to tap into the wisdom=
 of this group. When I first go to start the car, I give it a little choke, p=
ump the accelerator once or twice and leave it at about half throttle, and t=
urn the key. The car always starts right up, even if it's been sitting for a=
 month. But if I pull it out into the driveway, and turn it off (or stall it=
 =F0=9F=98=89), then try to restart it, it struggles. It cranks and cranks w=
ith the RPMs increasing like it's thinking about starting, and sometimes it d=
oes, but others, it takes several cycles of that before it starts. The warme=
r the engine, the harder it is to restart. If I let it cool for say a half h=
our, it starts right up again. The carbs were rebuilt about a year ago (this=
 happened before and after the rebuild). I've replaced the mechanical fuel p=
ump with an electric one thinking it might be a weak fuel pump, but that did=
n't solve it. I improved my grounding to ensure I wasn't stealing coil volta=
ge for the starter, and I even replaced the starter with a high-torque versi=
on to get a higher spin rate. None of this helped. I thought vapor lock migh=
t be the issue (I also installed a head shield for the carbs), but it happen=
s when it's cold too. The only thing left I can think of is that the carbs a=
re flooding. But when I rebuilt them, I was careful to set the float height.=
 Before I pull the carbs to check/adjust, does anyone have any suggestions o=
n what might be causing this?
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archi=
ve
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john@li=
nneyweb.com

--Apple-Mail-AEBCB107-A91D-4505-AFAA-DADD31C8885A
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Hi Joel - It does sound like it=E2=80=99s f=
looding. It could be that your electric fuel pump is kicking out too much pr=
essure and overcoming the float valve, unless you have a regulator. The carb=
s need only 3 or 4 pounds at the most. I have seen this issue with a friend=E2=
=80=99s TR6. -john<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr"><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Aug 2=
7, 2021, at 12:10 PM, Joel Justin &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br>=
</blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF

<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">

<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Hi everyone. This is my first time posting a question. I've got a 1965 Trium=
ph 2000 Mk1 Saloon. The engine is basically a GT6 2 liter with dual Stromber=
g CD150 carbs. I have a starting issue and I'd like to tap into the wisdom o=
f this group. When I first go
 to start the car, I give it a little choke, pump the accelerator once or tw=
ice and leave it at about half throttle, and turn the key. The car always st=
arts right up, even if it's been sitting for a month. But if I pull it out i=
nto the driveway, and turn it
 off (or stall it =F0=9F=98=89), then try to restart it, it struggles. It cr=
anks and cranks with the RPMs increasing like it's thinking about starting, a=
nd sometimes it does, but others, it takes several cycles of that before it s=
tarts. The warmer the engine, the harder
 it is to restart. If I let it cool for say a half hour, it starts right up a=
gain. The carbs were rebuilt about a year ago (this happened before and afte=
r the rebuild). I've replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one t=
hinking it might be a weak
 fuel pump, but that didn't solve it. I improved my grounding to ensure I wa=
sn't stealing coil voltage for the starter, and I even replaced the starter w=
ith a high-torque version to get a higher spin rate. None of this helped. I t=
hought vapor lock might be
 the issue (I also installed a head shield for the carbs), but it happens wh=
en it's cold too. The only thing left I can think of is that the carbs are f=
looding. But when I rebuilt them, I was careful to set the float height. Bef=
ore I pull the carbs to check/adjust,
 does anyone have any suggestions on what might be causing this?</div>
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olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
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olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Thanks, Joel Justin...</div>
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olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1954 TR2</div>
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olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1958 10 Estate</div>
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olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1960 TR3A</div>
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olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1961 TR4</div>
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olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1965 2000</div>
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olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1971 GT6</div>
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olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>

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