Subject: Re: [TR] rear seal

From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2020 03:05:53 +0000

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Dave-

I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is getting =
the old seal out.  Pick your favorite method, but I've settled on using a t=
ool I bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago which has worked wel=
l as a seal puller.

Basic steps:

1) Unbolt driveshaft
2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut
3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange steady, =
and remove the castle nut.
4) Pull the old seal.

The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the sea=
l and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose.

5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider puttin=
g on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)
6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), an=
d drive the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket.
7  Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.  Since there is n=
o collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued back to f=
actory settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )

Randy

________________________________
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of dave <dave@ra=
nteer.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Subject: [TR] rear seal

Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a TR3/4/=
4a engine.

Mine leaks a lot and I=92d like to at least slow it down.

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<head>
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<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
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Dave-</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is getting =
the old seal out.&nbsp; Pick your favorite method, but I've settled on usin=
g a tool I bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years&nbsp;ago which has =
worked well as a seal puller.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Basic steps:</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1) Unbolt driveshaft</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange steady, =
and remove the castle nut.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
4) Pull the old seal.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the sea=
l and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose.&nbsp;&nbsp;</di=
v>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider puttin=
g on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), an=
d drive the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div=
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
7&nbsp; Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.&nbsp; Since =
there is no collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued=
 back to factory settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )</=
div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Randy&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; col=
or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumphs=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of dave &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] rear seal</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"word-wrap:break-word">
<div class=3D"x_WordSection1">
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family=
: Calibri, sans-serif;">
Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a TR3/4/=
4a engine.</p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family=
: Calibri, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family=
: Calibri, sans-serif;">
Mine leaks a lot and I=92d like to at least slow it down.</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

--_004_DM6PR19MB31303108B46AEE443E8EC652B9FA0DM6PR19MB3130namp_--

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From: bill beecher <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2020 21:28:44 -0600

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Just finished that job using the Viton seal from Joe Alexander and guidance f=
rom Kas Kastner=E2=80=99s book.  So far no leak at the rear, =F0=9F=A4=9E.  =
Follow the steps, you will succeed. =20
Bill B
TS30800L

#dontkillgrandma

On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville@hotma=
il.com> wrote:

=EF=BB=BF
Dave-

I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is getting t=
he old seal out.  Pick your favorite method, but I've settled on using a too=
l I bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago which has worked well a=
s a seal puller.

Basic steps:

1) Unbolt driveshaft
2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut=20
3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange steady, a=
nd remove the castle nut.
4) Pull the old seal.

The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the seal=
 and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose. =20

5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider putting=
 on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)
6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), and=
 drive the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket. =20
7  Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.  Since there is no=
 collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued back to fac=
tory settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )

Randy=20

From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of dave <dave@ran=
teer.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Subject: [TR] rear seal
=20
Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a TR3/4/4=
a engine.
=20
Mine leaks a lot and I=E2=80=99d like to at least slow it down.
** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive=

[email-masked]

--Apple-Mail-22241BEC-C2AE-454A-9D43-8768B573DC85
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Just finished that job using the Viton seal=
 from Joe Alexander and guidance from Kas Kastner=E2=80=99s book. &nbsp;So f=
ar no leak at the rear, =F0=9F=A4=9E. &nbsp;Follow the steps, you will succe=
ed. &nbsp;<div>Bill B</div><div>TS30800L</div><div><br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">=
#dontkillgrandma</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Rand=
y and Valerie DeRuiter &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></div=
><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF

<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DWindows-12=
52">

<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Dave-</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is getting t=
he old seal out.&nbsp; Pick your favorite method, but I've settled on using a=
 tool I bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years&nbsp;ago which has work=
ed well as a seal puller.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Basic steps:</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
1) Unbolt driveshaft</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange steady, a=
nd remove the castle nut.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
4) Pull the old seal.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the seal=
 and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>=

<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider putting=
 on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), and=
 drive the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
7&nbsp; Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.&nbsp; Since t=
here is no collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued b=
ack to factory settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )</div=
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Randy&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; c=
olor: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; colo=
r:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" col=
or=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumphs-b=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of dave &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] rear seal</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"word-wrap:break-word">
<div class=3D"x_WordSection1">
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family:=
 Calibri, sans-serif;">
Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a TR3/4/4=
a engine.</p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family:=
 Calibri, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family:=
 Calibri, sans-serif;">
Mine leaks a lot and I=E2=80=99d like to at least slow it down.</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<div>&lt;thumbnail_6C3BD05F-B527-4528-8564-E036B3B50ACC.jpg&gt;</div><span>*=
* [email-masked] **</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: http:/=
/www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/piper=
mail/triumphs &nbsp;http://www.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span><br><=
span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/nota=
[email-masked]</span><br></div></div></body></html>=

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From: Paul Tegler <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2020 22:59:09 -0500

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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simplest puller ever

https://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-3245-Seal-Puller/dp/B000CODE8Y/ref=asc_df_B000CODE8Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309813767497&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5936156728543363590&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007853&hvtargid=pla-628184084527&psc=1 

<https://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-3245-Seal-Puller/dp/B000CODE8Y/ref=asc_df_B000CODE8Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309813767497&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5936156728543363590&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007853&hvtargid=pla-628184084527&psc=1>

for this style (just a simple pic grab) have never found a seal it 
wouldn't pull right out one handed

ptegler

On 11/24/2020 10:05 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote:
> Dave-
>
> I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is 
> getting the old seal out.� Pick your favorite method, but I've settled 
> on using a tool I bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years�ago 
> which has worked well as a seal puller.
>
> Basic steps:
>
> 1) Unbolt driveshaft
> 3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange 
> steady, and remove the castle nut.
> 4) Pull the old seal.
>
> The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of 
> the seal and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose.
>
> 5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider 
> putting on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)
> 6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 
> 2), and drive the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket.
> 7� Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.� Since there 
> is no collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued 
> back to factory settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )
>
> Randy
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of dave 
> <[email-masked]>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM
> *To:* [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
> *Subject:* [TR] rear seal
>
> Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a 
> TR3/4/4a engine.
>
> Mine leaks a lot and I�d like to at least slow it down.
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

-- 
Paul Tegler
[email-masked]  www.teglerizer.com

--------------B4FF9E3442D12060E8693DF8
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
      charset=windows-1252">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>simplest puller ever</p>
    <p><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-3245-Seal-Puller/dp/B000CODE8Y/ref=asc_df_B000CODE8Y/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=309813767497&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=5936156728543363590&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9007853&amp;hvtargid=pla-628184084527&amp;psc=1">https://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-3245-Seal-Puller/dp/B000CODE8Y/ref=asc_df_B000CODE8Y/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=309813767497&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=5936156728543363590&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9007853&amp;hvtargid=pla-628184084527&amp;psc=1���
        <br>
      </a></p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p>for this style (just a simple pic grab) have never found a seal
      it wouldn't pull right out one handed<br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p>ptegler<br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/24/2020 10:05 PM, Randy and
      Valerie DeRuiter wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <style type="text/css" style="display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}</style>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        Dave-</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job
        is getting the old seal out.� Pick your favorite method, but
        I've settled on using a tool I bought from Harbor Freight a
        couple of years�ago which has worked well as a seal puller.</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        Basic steps:</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        1) Unbolt driveshaft</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut�</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the
        flange steady, and remove the castle nut.</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        4) Pull the old seal.</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge
        of the seal and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal
        loose.��</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged
        consider putting on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or
        KWK99149 Timken)</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used
        Permatex 2), and drive the new seal back in using a large pipe
        or socket.��</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        7� Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.� Since
        there is no collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just
        gets torqued back to factory settings (I think the factory
        manual says 85-100 ftlbs )</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        Randy�</div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
        font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
        <br>
      </div>
      <div>
        <div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;
          font-size:12pt; color:rgb(0,0,0)">
          <br>
        </div>
        <hr tabindex="-1" style="display:inline-block; width:98%">
        <div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
            face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
            Triumphs <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> on behalf
            of dave <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
            <b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM<br>
            <b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
            <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
            <b>Subject:</b> [TR] rear seal</font>
          <div>�</div>
        </div>
        <div style="word-wrap:break-word" lang="EN-US">
          <div class="x_WordSection1">
            <p class="x_MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt;
              font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
              Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear
              seal on a TR3/4/4a engine.</p>
            <p class="x_MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt;
              font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
              �</p>
            <p class="x_MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt;
              font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
              Mine leaks a lot and I�d like to at least slow it down.</p>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
Paul Tegler
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>  <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.teglerizer.com">www.teglerizer.com</a></pre>
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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2020 09:37:58 -0500

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Bill I think this discussion is about the diff seal, not the rear engine =
seal.=20

From: bill beecher=20
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 10:28 PM
To: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter=20
Cc: [email-masked]=20
Subject: Re: [TR] rear seal

Just finished that job using the Viton seal from Joe Alexander and =
guidance from Kas Kastner=E2=80=99s book.  So far no leak at the rear, =
=F0=9F=A4=9E.  Follow the steps, you will succeed.  =20
Bill B
TS30800L

#dontkillgrandma

On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter =
<[email-masked]> wrote:

=EF=BB=BF=20
Dave-

I've done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is =
getting the old seal out.  Pick your favorite method, but I've settled =
on using a tool I bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago which =
has worked well as a seal puller.

Basic steps:

1) Unbolt driveshaft
2) Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut=20
3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange =
steady, and remove the castle nut.
4) Pull the old seal.

The attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the =
seal and I hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose. =20

5) Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider =
putting on a repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)
6) Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), =
and drive the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket. =20
7  Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.  Since there =
is no collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued =
back to factory settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )

Randy=20

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------

From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of dave =
<[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 PM
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Subject: [TR] rear seal=20

Looking for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a =
TR3/4/4a engine.

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  =

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  =

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
http-equiv=3Dcontent-type></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Bill I think this discussion is about the diff seal, not the rear =
engine=20
seal. </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]>bill=20
beecher</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 10:28 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]>Randy and Valerie=20
DeRuiter</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]>[email-masked]</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [TR] rear seal</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>Just=20
finished that job using the Viton seal from Joe Alexander and guidance =
from Kas=20
Kastner=E2=80=99s book.&nbsp; So far no leak at the rear, =
=F0=9F=A4=9E.&nbsp; Follow the steps,=20
you will succeed.&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<DIV>Bill B</DIV>
<DIV>TS30800L</DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>#dontkillgrandma</DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr><BR>On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:06 PM, Randy and Valerie =
DeRuiter=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>=EF=BB=BF=20
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Dave-</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">I've=20
done this a few times, I think the hardest part of the job is getting =
the old=20
seal out.&nbsp; Pick your favorite method, but I've settled on using a =
tool I=20
bought from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago which has worked well =
as a seal=20
puller.</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Basic=20
steps:</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">1)=20
Unbolt driveshaft</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">2)=20
Remove cotter pin from pinion castle nut </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">3)=20
Hold flange (I bolt on a piece of angle iron to hold the flange steady, =
and=20
remove the castle nut.</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">4)=20
Pull the old seal.</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">The=20
attached picture shows what I use, the hook catches the edge of the seal =
and I=20
hit the puller with a hammer to jar the seal loose.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">5)=20
Inspect the flange seal surface, and if its badly ridged consider =
putting on a=20
repair sleeve (99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 Timken)</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">6)=20
Smear the new seal with something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), =
and drive=20
the new seal back in using a large pipe or socket.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">7&nbsp;=20
Install the flange and castle nut with new cotter pin.&nbsp; Since there =
is no=20
collapsible spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued back to =
factory=20
settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs )</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">Randy=20
</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, helvetica, sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV id=3Dappendonsend></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri,helvetica,sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">&nbsp;</DIV>
<HR tabIndex=3D-1 style=3D"WIDTH: 98%; DISPLAY: inline-block">

<DIV id=3DdivRplyFwdMsg dir=3Dltr><FONT style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt" =
color=3D#000000=20
face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif"><B>From:</B> Triumphs=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of dave=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 24, 2020 7:57 =

PM<BR><B>To:</B> [email-masked]=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<BR><B>Subject:</B> [TR] rear seal</FONT> =

<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV lang=3DEN-US style=3D"WORD-WRAP: break-word">
<DIV class=3Dx_WordSection1>
<P class=3Dx_MsoNormal=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in">Looking=20
for advice from people who have installed the rear seal on a TR3/4/4a=20
engine.</P>
<P class=3Dx_MsoNormal=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in">&nbsp;</P>
<P class=3Dx_MsoNormal=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in">Mine=20
leaks a lot and I=E2=80=99d like to at least slow it =
down.</P></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&lt;thumbnail_6C3BD05F-B527-4528-8564-E036B3B50ACC.jpg&gt;</DIV><SPA=
N>**=20
[email-masked] **</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Donate:=20
http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs&nbsp;=20
Manage:=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</SPAN=
><BR></DIV></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
** [email-masked] **<BR><BR>Donate:=20
http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs&nbsp;=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]<BR>=
</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2020 09:41:01 -0500

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Opps the original post was about the rear engine seal.

From: Jerry Van Vlack=20
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2020 9:37 AM
To: bill beecher ; Randy and Valerie DeRuiter=20
Cc: [email-masked]=20
Subject: Re: [TR] rear seal

From: bill beecher=20

#dontkillgrandma

=EF=BB=BF=20
Dave-

Basic steps:

1) Unbolt driveshaft

Randy=20

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<HTML><HEAD>
<DIV>Opps the original post was about the rear engine seal.</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
title=[email-masked]>Jerry Van Vlack</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, November 25, 2020 9:37 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]>bill beecher</A> ; <A=20
title=[email-masked]>Randy and Valerie DeRuiter</A> </DIV>

<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
</DIV></DIV></DIV>

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From: "dave" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2020 08:56:47 -0600

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Content-Language: en-us

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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It is actually about both!  I am learning a lot and hope to hear from =
more people!!!

=20

From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Jerry Van =
Vlack
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2020 8:38 AM
To: bill beecher <[email-masked]>; Randy and Valerie DeRuiter =
<[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] rear seal

=20

=20

From: bill beecher=20

=20

Bill B

TS30800L

=20

#dontkillgrandma

=EF=BB=BF=20

Dave-

=20

=20

Basic steps:

=20

1) Unbolt driveshaft

4) Pull the old seal.

=20

=20

=20

Randy=20

=20

=20

=20

  _____ =20

=20

=20

  _____ =20

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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72" style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>It is actually about =
both!=C2=A0 I am learning a lot and hope to hear from more =
people!!!<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Triumphs =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Jerry Van =
Vlack<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, November 25, 2020 8:38 AM<br><b>To:</b> =
bill beecher &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; Randy and Valerie DeRuiter =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> =
[email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] rear =
seal<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Bill I =
think this discussion is about the diff seal, not the rear engine seal. =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black'>&n=
bsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:whitesmoke'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black'>Fr=
om:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black'> =
bill beecher <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'background:whitesmoke'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black'>Se=
nt:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black'> =
Tuesday, November 24, 2020 10:28 PM<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:whitesmoke'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black'>To=
:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black'> =
Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:whitesmoke'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black'>Cc=
:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black'> =
[email-masked] <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'background:whitesmoke'><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black'>Su=
bject:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif;color:black'> =
Re: [TR] rear seal<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Just finished that job using the =
Viton seal from Joe Alexander and guidance from Kas Kastner=E2=80=99s =
book.&nbsp; So far no leak at the rear, </span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Segoe UI =
Emoji",sans-serif;color:black'>&#129310;</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>.&nbsp; Follow the steps, you =
will succeed.&nbsp;&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Bill =
B<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>TS30800L<o:p></o:p></span></p></di=
v><div><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><=
p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>#dontkillgrandma<o:p></o:p></span>=
</p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><br>On Nov 24, 2020, at 9:06 PM, =
Randy and Valerie DeRuiter &lt;[email-masked]&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>=EF=BB=BF =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Dave-<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><=
div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>I've done this a few times, I =
think the hardest part of the job is getting the old seal out.&nbsp; =
Pick your favorite method, but I've settled on using a tool I bought =
from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago which has worked well as a =
seal puller.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Basic =
steps:<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>1) Unbolt =
driveshaft<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>2) Remove cotter pin from pinion =
castle nut <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>3) Hold flange (I bolt on a piece =
of angle iron to hold the flange steady, and remove the castle =
nut.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>4) Pull the old =
seal.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>The attached picture shows what I =
use, the hook catches the edge of the seal and I hit the puller with a =
hammer to jar the seal loose.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>5) Inspect the flange seal =
surface, and if its badly ridged consider putting on a repair sleeve =
(99149 National, SKF or KWK99149 =
Timken)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>6) Smear the new seal with =
something appropriate (I've used Permatex 2), and drive the new seal =
back in using a large pipe or socket.&nbsp; =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>7&nbsp; Install the flange and =
castle nut with new cotter pin.&nbsp; Since there is no collapsible =
spacer to worry about, the flange just gets torqued back to factory =
settings (I think the factory manual says 85-100 ftlbs =
)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Randy =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
<div class=3DMsoNormal align=3Dcenter style=3D'text-align:center'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><hr size=3D2 width=3D"98%" =
align=3Dcenter></span></div><div id=3DdivRplyFwdMsg><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'color:black'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'color:black'> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt; =
on behalf of dave &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, =
November 24, 2020 7:57 PM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked] =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> [TR] rear =
seal</span><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'> =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div>=
</div><div><div><p class=3Dxmsonormal style=3D'margin:0in'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>Looking for advice from people who have installed =
the rear seal on a TR3/4/4a engine.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3Dxmsonormal style=3D'margin:0in'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3Dxmsonormal =
style=3D'margin:0in'><span style=3D'color:black'>Mine leaks a lot and =
I=E2=80=99d like to at least slow it =
down.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&lt;thumbnail_6C3BD05F-B527-4528-8=
564-E036B3B50ACC.jpg&gt;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>** =
[email-masked] **<br><br>Donate: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs&nbsp; =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]<o:p><=
/o:p></span></p></div></div><div class=3DMsoNormal align=3Dcenter =
style=3D'text-align:center'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'><hr size=3D2 width=3D"100%" =
align=3Dcenter></span></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>** [email-masked] =
**<br><br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>Archive: =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs&nbsp; =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]<o:p=
></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div></body></html>
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