Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak - blueing the tapered surfaces

From: aribert neumann <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 21:59:17 -0400

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 ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Michael Marr <[email-masked]>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Cc: David Friedlander <[email-masked]>, TR3 Triumphs <
[email-masked]>, New England Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 21:46:56 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Small coolant leak
The drain =E2=80=9Cvalve=E2=80=9D is actually a petcock. It doesn=E2=80=99t=
 have a gate and seat,
as such.  The best fix is to relap the plug to the body, using valve
grinding compound.
Mike

There is a product called Prussian Blue.  Here is a link to one mfg of it
(not the only one) :
https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/rebuilders=
-aids/permatex-prussian-blue/
Should be available at any large industrial supply or machining supply type
of store.

I bought a 1/2 or 1 oz tube about 25 yrs ago - still have 90% of it and use
it maybe one or twice a year.  This stuff is nasty, it is infinitely
divisible, it will get all over your hands and clothing if you are not
careful.  I store my small tube in a zip lock bag and frequently I'll only
get a rubbing of blue off of the **outside** of the tube (previous sloppy
handling, hence the zip lock bag).  Put an extremely thin film (almost
translucent) on one of the two mating parts, asm and rotate a few times.
The high spot(s) should transfer over to the mating part.  Now you know how
bad the mating parts are with respect to one another.  Lap the parts as
mentioned above.  Redo the bluing to check the match.  Once the entire
surface around the water port on the cone/socket is showing faint traces of
blue, you are done lapping.  You now have a new skill and someone in the
future, at your estate sale, will have a royal mess on their hands when
they open the tube to find out what it is.

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<div dir=3D"ltr">
---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From:=C2=A0Michael Marr &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">mmarr@albiontech=
nical.com</a>&gt;<br>To:=C2=A0Jeff Scarbrough &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fishpla=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>Cc:=C2=A0Dav=
id Friedlander &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;, TR3 Triumphs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@aut=
ox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, New England=
 Triumphs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blan=
k">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>Bcc:=C2=A0<br>Date:=C2=A0Tue, 15 S=
ep 2020 21:46:56 +0000<br>Subject:=C2=A0Re: [TR] Small coolant leak<br>The
 drain =E2=80=9Cvalve=E2=80=9D is actually a petcock. It doesn=E2=80=99t ha=
ve a gate and seat,=20
as such.=C2=A0 The best fix is to relap the plug to the body, using valve=
=20
grinding compound. <br>
Mike <br><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>There is a product called Pruss=
ian Blue.=C2=A0
Here is a link to one mfg of it (not the only one) :

=C2=A0 <a href=3D"https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance=
-repair/rebuilders-aids/permatex-prussian-blue/">https://www.permatex.com/p=
roducts/specialized-maintenance-repair/rebuilders-aids/permatex-prussian-bl=
ue/</a>=C2=A0 Should be available at any large industrial supply or machini=
ng supply type of store.</div><div><br></div><div>I bought a 1/2 or 1 oz tu=
be about 25 yrs ago - still have 90% of it and use it maybe one or twice a =
year.=C2=A0 This stuff is nasty, it is infinitely divisible, it will get al=
l over your hands and clothing if you are not careful.=C2=A0 I store my sma=
ll tube in a zip lock bag and frequently I&#39;ll only get a rubbing of blu=
e off of the **outside** of the tube (previous sloppy handling, hence the z=
ip lock bag).=C2=A0 Put an extremely thin film (almost translucent) on one =
of the two mating parts, asm and rotate a few times.=C2=A0 The high spot(s)=
 should transfer over to the mating part.=C2=A0 Now you know how bad the ma=
ting parts are with respect to one another.=C2=A0 Lap the parts as mentione=
d above.=C2=A0 Redo the bluing to check the match.=C2=A0 Once the entire su=
rface around the water port on the cone/socket is showing faint traces of b=
lue, you are done lapping.=C2=A0 You now have a new skill and someone in th=
e future, at your estate sale, will have a royal mess on their hands when t=
hey open the tube to find out what it is.<br></div></div>

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Reihing, Randall S." <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 10:23:40 +0000

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My restored 1948 C85 Taylorcraft has a wing tank pet cock in the cockpit on=
 the passgenr side under the panel. Recently, it started a very slow seep. =
An occasional drop but not quite a steady drip. The valve is a petcock that=
 rotates 90 degree from full off to full on. It has a tapered bore and tape=
red stem. The fix was to remove and disasseble the valve, apply the finner =
grade of Clover Valve Grinding compound followed by Clover Lapping Compound=
. Prussian Blue was used to verify the two surfaces now perfectly matched. =
The vlave was reassembled and no longer leaks, even with 6 gallons of AV ga=
s above it.

Sincerey,
Randall Reihing
________________________________
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of aribert neuma=
nn <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 9:59 PM
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] [TR] Small coolant leak - blueing the tapered surfaces

---------- Forwarded message ----------
com>>
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 21:46:56 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Small coolant leak
The drain =93valve=94 is actually a petcock. It doesn=92t have a gate and s=
eat, as such.  The best fix is to relap the plug to the body, using valve g=
rinding compound.
Mike

There is a product called Prussian Blue.  Here is a link to one mfg of it (=
not the only one) :   https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-mainten=
ance-repair/rebuilders-aids/permatex-prussian-blue/<https://urldefense.com/=
v3/__https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/rebui=
lders-aids/permatex-prussian-blue/__;!!LoBwcKfm!1RXucXzoCkVKqGafAKDtvc3yQPg=
J__WX-6aY8mEpm7cUqWmH0XXmsiU-g0XKUZlgjepx5yw$>  Should be available at any =
large industrial supply or machining supply type of store.

I bought a 1/2 or 1 oz tube about 25 yrs ago - still have 90% of it and use=
 it maybe one or twice a year.  This stuff is nasty, it is infinitely divis=
ible, it will get all over your hands and clothing if you are not careful. =
 I store my small tube in a zip lock bag and frequently I'll only get a rub=
bing of blue off of the **outside** of the tube (previous sloppy handling, =
hence the zip lock bag).  Put an extremely thin film (almost translucent) o=
n one of the two mating parts, asm and rotate a few times.  The high spot(s=
) should transfer over to the mating part.  Now you know how bad the mating=
 parts are with respect to one another.  Lap the parts as mentioned above. =
 Redo the bluing to check the match.  Once the entire surface around the wa=
ter port on the cone/socket is showing faint traces of blue, you are done l=
apping.  You now have a new skill and someone in the future, at your estate=
 sale, will have a royal mess on their hands when they open the tube to fin=
d out what it is.

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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DWindows-1=
252">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size=
: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
My restored 1948 C85 Taylorcraft has a wing tank pet cock in the cockpit on=
 the passgenr side under the panel. Recently, it started a very slow seep. =
An occasional drop but not quite a steady drip. The valve is a petcock that=
 rotates 90 degree from full off
 to full on. It has a tapered bore and tapered stem. The fix was to remove =
and disasseble the valve, apply the finner grade of Clover Valve Grinding c=
ompound followed by Clover Lapping Compound. Prussian Blue was used to veri=
fy the two surfaces now perfectly
 matched. The vlave was reassembled and no longer leaks, even with 6 gallon=
s of AV gas above it.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size=
: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size=
: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Sincerey,</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size=
: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Randall Reihing</div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumphs=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of aribert neumann &lt;aribertn@gmail=
.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, September 16, 2020 9:59 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [EXTERNAL] [TR] Small coolant leak - blueing the tapered su=
rfaces</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>
From:&nbsp;Michael Marr &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
To:&nbsp;Jeff Scarbrough &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
Cc:&nbsp;David Friedlander &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, TR3 Triumphs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;,=
 New England Triumphs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" tar=
get=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
Bcc:&nbsp;<br>
Date:&nbsp;Tue, 15 Sep 2020 21:46:56 +0000<br>
Subject:&nbsp;Re: [TR] Small coolant leak<br>
The drain =93valve=94 is actually a petcock. It doesn=92t have a gate and s=
eat, as such.&nbsp; The best fix is to relap the plug to the body, using va=
lve grinding compound.
<br>
Mike <br>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>There is a product called Prussian Blue.&nbsp; Here is a link to one m=
fg of it (not the only one) : &nbsp;
<a href=3D"https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.permatex.com/products/sp=
ecialized-maintenance-repair/rebuilders-aids/permatex-prussian-blue/__;!!Lo=
BwcKfm!1RXucXzoCkVKqGafAKDtvc3yQPgJ__WX-6aY8mEpm7cUqWmH0XXmsiU-g0XKUZlgjepx=
5yw$">
https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/rebuilders=
-aids/permatex-prussian-blue/</a>&nbsp; Should be available at any large in=
dustrial supply or machining supply type of store.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I bought a 1/2 or 1 oz tube about 25 yrs ago - still have 90% of it an=
d use it maybe one or twice a year.&nbsp; This stuff is nasty, it is infini=
tely divisible, it will get all over your hands and clothing if you are not=
 careful.&nbsp; I store my small tube in a
 zip lock bag and frequently I'll only get a rubbing of blue off of the **o=
utside** of the tube (previous sloppy handling, hence the zip lock bag).&nb=
sp; Put an extremely thin film (almost translucent) on one of the two matin=
g parts, asm and rotate a few times.&nbsp;
 The high spot(s) should transfer over to the mating part.&nbsp; Now you kn=
ow how bad the mating parts are with respect to one another.&nbsp; Lap the =
parts as mentioned above.&nbsp; Redo the bluing to check the match.&nbsp; O=
nce the entire surface around the water port on the
 cone/socket is showing faint traces of blue, you are done lapping.&nbsp; Y=
ou now have a new skill and someone in the future, at your estate sale, wil=
l have a royal mess on their hands when they open the tube to find out what=
 it is.<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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