Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild

From: Robert Rochlin <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:44:02 -0400

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Hi Richard,
	I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a =
complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6.  As I =
recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out =
of the garage and the brakes totally failed.  The TR6 rolled int my P/U =
truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very =
expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time =
to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6.  They rebuilt the m/c again =
gratis and I reinstalled it.  After about 8 months the m/c started to =
fail again, but slowly=E2=80=A6 I replaced it with a new Girling and it =
has gone several seasons working fine but now I=E2=80=99m getting the =
slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the =
seals myself.
	  Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt =
components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers,  =
I=E2=80=99ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
	Best,
	Bob

> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay =
<[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> Hello Bob, et al.,
>=20
>    Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the =
stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to =
venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem =
to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I =
wish them luck.
>=20
>    I have had two, fresh from the box,  M/Cs fail then a third, =
working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor =
since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name =
does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why =
I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
>    In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake =
circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear =
brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid =
through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works =
great today!
>=20
>    Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in =
China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did =
your M/C "fail catastrophically?"
>=20
> -rick
>=20
> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack =
> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of =
quarantine.  It down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusetts the stay =
at home order will be  completely lifted for several of more weeks, but =
some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.
>         I=E2=80=99ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In =
the past I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders =
only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation.  =
I=E2=80=99m figuring that I can improve on that record.  When I went to =
the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article =
recommended red grease.  I don=E2=80=99t have any, but I do have Volvo =
silicone breaks grease.  In the absence of red brake grease can I just =
apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the =
bullet and get the red brake grease.  About the only red grease I could =
fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping.=20=

>         Any advice would be appreciated.=20
>         Best,
>         Bob=20
>         =E2=80=9972 TR6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html =
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">Hi =
Richard,<div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>I sent my m/c off to a reputable =
(I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back =
installed it in the TR6. &nbsp;As I recall it worked fine for a short =
time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes =
totally failed. &nbsp;The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, =
and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I =
sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body =
shop fixed the TR6. &nbsp;They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I =
reinstalled it. &nbsp;After about 8 months the m/c started to fail =
again, but slowly=E2=80=A6 I replaced it with a new Girling and it has =
gone several seasons working fine but now I=E2=80=99m getting the slow =
sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals =
myself.</div><div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;Although I=E2=80=99ve =
had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, =
carburetors, shocks, and distributers, &nbsp;I=E2=80=99ll never send a =
master cylinder to a rebuilder again.</div><div class=3D""><span =
class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	=
</span>Best,</div><div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Bob<br class=3D""><div><br =
class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On May =
17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D""><div class=3D"">Hello Bob, <i class=3D"">et =
al.</i>,</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp;Glad you're well. Here is south =
Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people =
(like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe =
separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an <i class=3D"">All =
Clear</i> has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them =
luck.</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp;I have had two, fresh from the =
box,&nbsp; M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to =
directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite =
willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north =
side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask =
is: How did your M/Cs fail?</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">&nbsp; =
&nbsp;In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake =
circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear =
brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid =
through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works =
great today!</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp;Did I get two poorly or incorrectly =
rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do =
something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail =
catastrophically?"</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div>-rick</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via =
6pack &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br =
class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 =
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I hope everyone is =
hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine.&nbsp; It =
down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order =
will be&nbsp; completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some =
business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.<br class=3D"">
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; I=E2=80=99ve had a checkered history with =
master cylinders. In the past I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by =
reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after =
reinstallation.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m figuring that I can improve on that =
record.&nbsp; When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the =
rebuild process the article recommended red grease.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t =
have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease.&nbsp; In the =
absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to =
do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake =
grease.&nbsp; About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and =
it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. <br class=3D"">
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Any advice would be appreciated. <br =
class=3D"">
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Best,<br class=3D"">
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Bob <br class=3D"">
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; =E2=80=9972 TR6<br class=3D"">
_______________________________________________<br class=3D"">
Support <a href=3D"http://Team.Net" class=3D"">Team.Net</a> <a =
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href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay@gmail.=
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</blockquote></div></div></div>
</div></blockquote></div><br class=3D""></div></body></html>=

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From: bill beecher <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:13:54 -0500

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Have rebuilt many M/C, TR and others, always just use brake fluid as lubrica=
nt and bench bleed before installation.  =20
Bill B
TS30800L

Serenity Now......

On May 17, 2020, at 8:56 AM, Robert Rochlin <[email-masked]> wrote:

=EF=BB=BFHi Richard,
	I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a compl=
ete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6.  As I recall it w=
orked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage a=
nd the brakes totally failed.  The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the do=
or, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I se=
nt the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop f=
ixed the TR6.  They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it.  Afte=
r about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly=E2=80=A6 I replac=
ed it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but no=
w I=E2=80=99m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am=
 going to replace the seals myself.
	  Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt componen=
ts including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers,  I=E2=80=99ll n=
ever send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
	Best,
	Bob

> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay <[email-masked]> w=
rote:
>=20
> Hello Bob, et al.,
>=20
>    Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-h=
ome order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if st=
ill maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear=
 has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck.
>=20
>    I have had two, fresh from the box,  M/Cs fail then a third, working fi=
ne. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are al=
ways quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'no=
rth side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask i=
s: How did your M/Cs fail?
>    In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circu=
it worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake cir=
cuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either=
 circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today!
>=20
>    Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China=
 just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "=
fail catastrophically?"
>=20
> -rick
>=20
> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <[email-masked]=
et> wrote:
>> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quaran=
tine.  It down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home or=
der will be  completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business s=
lowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.
>>         I=E2=80=99ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In th=
e past I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only t=
o have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation.  I=E2=80=99m fi=
guring that I can improve on that record.  When I went to the Buckeye Triump=
h site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease.  I d=
on=E2=80=99t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease.  In the a=
bsence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do t=
he rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease.  About t=
he only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.=
00 plus $8.00 shipping.=20
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>=20
>> [email-masked]
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardol=
[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive=

[email-masked]

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Have rebuilt many M/C, TR and others, alway=
s just use brake fluid as lubricant and bench bleed before installation. &nb=
sp;&nbsp;<div><div>Bill B</div><div>TS30800L<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Serenit=
y Now......</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On May 17, 2020, at 8:56 AM, Robert Ro=
chlin &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=
=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">=
Hi Richard,<div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-spa=
ce:pre">	</span>I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuil=
der for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. &n=
bsp;As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling=
 out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. &nbsp;The TR6 rolled int m=
y P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very e=
xpensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to ki=
ll while the body shop fixed the TR6. &nbsp;They rebuilt the m/c again grati=
s and I reinstalled it. &nbsp;After about 8 months the m/c started to fail a=
gain, but slowly=E2=80=A6 I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone s=
everal seasons working fine but now I=E2=80=99m getting the slow sinking ped=
al. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself.</div><=
div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">=
	</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt=
 components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, &nbsp=
;I=E2=80=99ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.</div><div c=
lass=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</s=
pan>Best,</div><div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white=
-space:pre">	</span>Bob<br class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote ty=
pe=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard L=
indsay &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">richardol=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"=
><div class=3D""><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><div class=3D"">Hello Bob, <i c=
lass=3D"">et al.</i>,</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""><div d=
ir=3D"auto" class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp;Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we=
 too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are b=
eginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglin=
gs' seem to think an <i class=3D"">All Clear</i> has been sounded and they'r=
e back face to face. I wish them luck.</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br=
 class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp;I have had two, f=
resh from the box,&nbsp; M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish t=
o directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing=
 to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tr=
ee'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M=
/Cs fail?</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp;In one of my unit's=
 failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's t=
he one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid=
. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C w=
orked perfectly and still works great today!</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D=
""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp;Did I get t=
wo poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mista=
kes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastroph=
ically?"</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div>-rick</div><=
div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D=
"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM R=
obert Rochlin via 6pack &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D=
"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br class=3D""></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;paddi=
ng-left:1ex">I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time=
 of quarantine.&nbsp; It down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusetts the s=
tay at home order will be&nbsp; completely lifted for several of more weeks,=
 but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.<br class=
=3D"">
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; I=E2=80=99ve had a checkered history with master=
 cylinders. In the past I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable=
 rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallatio=
n.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m figuring that I can improve on that record.&nbsp; When I=
 went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article r=
ecommended red grease.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t have any, but I do have Volvo s=
ilicone breaks grease.&nbsp; In the absence of red brake grease can I just a=
pply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet a=
nd get the red brake grease.&nbsp; About the only red grease I could fine wa=
s on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. <br class=3D=
"">
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Any advice would be appreciated. <br class=3D"">=

&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Best,<br class=3D"">
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Bob <br class=3D"">
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; =E2=80=9972 TR6<br class=3D"">
_______________________________________________<br class=3D"">
Support <a href=3D"http://Team.Net" class=3D"">Team.Net</a> <a href=3D"http:=
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From: bill beecher <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:13:54 -0500

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Serenity Now......

=EF=BB=BFHi Richard,

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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From: Bob <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 10:36:44 -0400

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Hello,

Not sure what the problems are here. I rebuilt the MC on my 72 6 and I 
am in my 12th season. Now I did use the dot 5 synthetic fluid from TRF.

The MC on my 58 3 had the seals replaced about 10 years ago and not a 
problem since.

Same with the 63 4. Rebuild MC and clutch MC and used the same dot 5 
from TRF. No problems for over 15 seasons.

Before I rebuilt the 3 MC, I did notice it weeping a bit. I have never 
had a total failure in over 50 years of Triumph ownership.

I know this is of little help to understand the failures but I did want 
to let you know what you are experiencing is very unusual in my opinion.

Bob

On 5/17/20 9:44 AM, Robert Rochlin wrote:
> Hi Richard,
> I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete 
> rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6.  As I recall it 
> worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the 
> garage and the brakes totally failed.  The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck 
> dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very 
> expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had 
> time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6.  They rebuilt the m/c 
> again gratis and I reinstalled it.  After about 8 months the m/c 
> started to fail again, but slowly… I replaced it with a new Girling 
> and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I’m getting the 
> slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace 
> the seals myself.
>   Although I’ve had good luck with several rebuilt components 
> including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers,  I’ll never 
> send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
> Best,
> Bob
>
>> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay 
>>
>> Hello Bob, /et al./,
>>
>>    Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the 
>> stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to 
>> venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' 
>> seem to think an /All Clear/ has been sounded and they're back face 
>> to face. I wish them luck.
>>
>>    I have had two, fresh from the box,  M/Cs fail then a third, 
>> working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor 
>> since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their 
>> name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder 
>> and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
>>    In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake 
>> circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the 
>> rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no 
>> fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and 
>> still works great today!
>>
>>    Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in 
>> China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How 
>> did your M/C "fail catastrophically?"
>>
>> -rick
>>
>> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack 
>>
>>     I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time
>>     of quarantine.  It down’t look like here in Massachusetts the
>>     stay at home order will be  completely lifted for several of more
>>     weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to
>>     reopen.
>>             I’ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In
>>     the past I’ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders
>>     only to have them catastrophically fail soon after
>>     reinstallation. I’m figuring that I can improve on that record.
>>     When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild
>>     process the article recommended red grease.  I don’t have any,
>>     but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease.  In the absence of
>>     red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do
>>     the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake
>>     grease.  About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and
>>     it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping.
>>             Any advice would be appreciated.
>>             Best,
>>             Bob
>>             ’72 TR6
>>     Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]
>>
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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<html>
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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>Hello,</p>
    <p>Not sure what the problems are here. I rebuilt the MC on my 72 6
      and I am in my 12th season. Now I did use the dot 5 synthetic
      fluid from TRF. <br>
    </p>
    <p>The MC on my 58 3 had the seals replaced about 10 years ago and
      not a problem since.</p>
    <p>Same with the 63 4. Rebuild MC and clutch MC and used the same
      dot 5 from TRF. No problems for over 15 seasons.</p>
    <p>Before I rebuilt the 3 MC, I did notice it weeping a bit. I have
      never had a total failure in over 50 years of Triumph ownership. <br>
    </p>
    <p>I know this is of little help to understand the failures but I
      did want to let you know what you are experiencing is very unusual
      in my opinion.</p>
    <p>Bob<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/17/20 9:44 AM, Robert Rochlin
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      Hi Richard,
      <div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>I
        sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a
        complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6.
         As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I
        was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed.  The
        TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the
        front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c
        back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop
        fixed the TR6.  They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I
        reinstalled it.  After about 8 months the m/c started to fail
        again, but slowly… I replaced it with a new Girling and it has
        gone several seasons working fine but now I’m getting the slow
        sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace
        the seals myself.</div>
      <div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>  Although
        I’ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including
        starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers,  I’ll never
        send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.</div>
      <div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>Best,</div>
      <div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">	</span>Bob<br
          class="">
        <div><br class="">
          <blockquote type="cite" class="">
            <div class="">On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay
              &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]" class=""
                moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
              wrote:</div>
            <br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
            <div class="">
              <div dir="auto" class="">
                <div class="">Hello Bob, <i class="">et al.</i>,</div>
                <div dir="auto" class=""><br class="">
                  <div dir="auto" class="">   Glad you're well. Here is
                    south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home
                    order and the older people (like me) are beginning
                    to venture out, if still maintaining safe
                    separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an <i
                      class="">All Clear</i> has been sounded and
                    they're back face to face. I wish them luck.</div>
                  <div dir="auto" class=""><br class="">
                  </div>
                  <div dir="auto" class="">   I have had two, fresh from
                    the box,  M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I
                    don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor
                    since they are always quite willing to make things
                    right, but their name does grow on the 'north side
                    of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am
                    writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?</div>
                  <div dir="auto" class="">   In one of my unit's
                    failures, fresh from the box, the front brake
                    circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the
                    booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no
                    fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through
                    either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and
                    still works great today!</div>
                  <div dir="auto" class=""><br class="">
                  </div>
                  <div dir="auto" class="">   Did I get two poorly or
                    incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just
                    make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask:
                    How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?"</div>
                  <div dir="auto" class=""><br class="">
                  </div>
                  -rick</div>
                <div dir="auto" class=""><br class="">
                  <div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto">
                    <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, May 17,
                      2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack &lt;<a
                        href="mailto:[email-masked]" class=""
                        moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                      wrote:<br class="">
                    </div>
                    <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
                      .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I
                      hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well
                      in this time of quarantine.  It down’t look like
                      here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will
                      be  completely lifted for several of more weeks,
                      but some business slowly are beginning to be be
                      allowed to reopen.<br class="">
                              I’ve had a checkered history with master
                      cylinders. In the past I’ve sent m/c off to be
                      rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them
                      catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. 
                      I’m figuring that I can improve on that record. 
                      When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review
                      the rebuild process the article recommended red
                      grease.  I don’t have any, but I do have Volvo
                      silicone breaks grease.  In the absence of red
                      brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as
                      lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the
                      bullet and get the red brake grease.  About the
                      only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it
                      was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. <br
                        class="">
                              Any advice would be appreciated. <br
                        class="">
                              Best,<br class="">
                              Bob <br class="">
                              ’72 TR6<br class="">
                      _______________________________________________<br
                        class="">
                      Support <a href="http://Team.Net" class=""
                        moz-do-not-send="true">Team.Net</a> <a
                        href="http://www.team.net/donate.html"
                        rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank"
                        class="" moz-do-not-send="true">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br
                        class="">
                      Suggested annual donation  $12.96<br class="">
                      Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive"
                        rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank"
                        class="" moz-do-not-send="true">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br
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                        target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" class=""
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                    </blockquote>
                  </div>
                </div>
              </div>
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          </blockquote>
        </div>
        <br class="">
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>

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From: DAVE HOGYE <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:39:22 -0700 (PDT)

--===============8140886968461328908==
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If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild an=
 old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it o=
ff to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost.  I have never rebuilt a maste=
r that was available new.  Time is money and bent panels and paint repair a=
re too, beside being dangerous.  I learned very early in my mechanic learni=
ng to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis.  This saves compon=
ents from failure and adds long life to them.  Wilwood and others make exce=
llent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new.  At=
 this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one.  I understand the TR6 ha=
s a different style master and may be more costly.=20
Good luck for good brakes.=20
Dave H.

> On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
>     Hi Richard,
>     I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complet=
e rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6.  As I recall it wo=
rked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage a=
nd the brakes totally failed.  The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the d=
oor, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I =
sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body sho=
p fixed the TR6.  They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it.  =
After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly=E2=80=A6 I r=
eplaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine =
but now I=E2=80=99m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it aga=
in I am going to replace the seals myself.
>       Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt components=
 including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers,  I=E2=80=99ll n=
ever send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
>     Best,
>     Bob
>=20
>=20
>         > >         On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < richar=
[email-masked] mailto:[email-masked] > wrote:
> >=20
> >         Hello Bob, et al.,
> >=20
> >            Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing th=
e stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to ventur=
e out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think=
 an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them l=
uck.
> >=20
> >            I have had two, fresh from the box,  M/Cs fail then a third,=
 working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since=
 they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does gr=
ow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writ=
ing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
> >            In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front =
brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the re=
ar brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid t=
hrough either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great=
 today!
> >=20
> >            Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someo=
ne in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How d=
id your M/C "fail catastrophically?"
> >=20
> >         -rick
> >=20
> >         On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < 6pack@=
autox.team.net mailto:[email-masked] > wrote:
> >=20
> >             > > > I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in=
 this time of quarantine.  It down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusett=
s the stay at home order will be  completely lifted for several of more wee=
ks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.
> > >                     I=E2=80=99ve had a checkered history with master =
cylinders. In the past I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable=
 rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallati=
on.  I=E2=80=99m figuring that I can improve on that record.  When I went t=
o the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recomm=
ended red grease.  I don=E2=80=99t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone b=
reaks grease.  In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fl=
uid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the =
red brake grease.  About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and=
 it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping.
> > >             Supporthttp://Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > >             [email-masked] mailto:[email-masked]
> > >             Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options=
/6pack/[email-masked]
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/a=
rchive
>=20
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dl=
[email-masked]

------=_Part_289464_501055927.1589733562871
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!doctype html>
<html>
 <head>=20
  <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">=20
 </head>
 <body>
  <div style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;=
 color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">
   If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild=
 an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending i=
t off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost.&nbsp; I have never rebuilt=
 a master that was available new.&nbsp; Time is money and bent panels and p=
aint repair are too, beside being dangerous.&nbsp; I learned very early in =
my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis.&=
nbsp; This saves components from failure and adds long life to them.&nbsp; =
Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they =
are at the most $80 new.&nbsp; At this cost, it does not make sense to rebu=
ild one.&nbsp; I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be=
 more costly.&nbsp;=20
  </div>
  <div style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;=
 color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">
   Good luck for good brakes.&nbsp;
  </div>
  <div style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;=
 color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">
   Dave H.
  </div>
  <blockquote type=3D"cite">
   On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin &lt;[email-masked]&gt; w=
rote:=20
   <br>=20
   <br> Hi Richard,
   <div class=3D"">
    I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete =
rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. &nbsp;As I recall it=
 worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garag=
e and the brakes totally failed. &nbsp;The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dent=
ed the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive after=
noon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the =
body shop fixed the TR6. &nbsp;They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I rein=
stalled it. &nbsp;After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but s=
lowly=E2=80=A6 I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several sea=
sons working fine but now I=E2=80=99m getting the slow sinking pedal. Befor=
e replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself.
   </div>
   <div class=3D"">
    &nbsp;&nbsp;Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt co=
mponents including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, &nbsp;I=
=E2=80=99ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
   </div>
   <div class=3D"">
    Best,
   </div>
   <div class=3D"">
    Bob=20
    <br class=3D"">
    <div>
     <br class=3D"">
     <blockquote type=3D"cite">
      <div class=3D"">
       On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay &lt;=20
       <a class=3D"" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">richardolind=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:
      </div>
      <br class=3D"ox-ef884f7222-Apple-interchange-newline">
      <div class=3D"">
       <div class=3D"" dir=3D"auto">
        <div class=3D"">
         Hello Bob,=20
         <em class=3D"">et al.</em>,
        </div>
        <div class=3D"" dir=3D"auto">
         <br class=3D"">
         <div class=3D"" dir=3D"auto">
          &nbsp; &nbsp;Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are rel=
axing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning t=
o venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem =
to think an=20
          <em class=3D"">All Clear</em> has been sounded and they're back f=
ace to face. I wish them luck.
         </div>
         <div class=3D"" dir=3D"auto">
          <br class=3D"">
         </div>
         <div class=3D"" dir=3D"auto">
          &nbsp; &nbsp;I have had two, fresh from the box,&nbsp; M/Cs fail =
then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the=
 vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their=
 name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and =
why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
         </div>
         <div class=3D"" dir=3D"auto">
          &nbsp; &nbsp;In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, th=
e front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) bu=
t the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no=
 fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still wor=
ks great today!
         </div>
         <div class=3D"" dir=3D"auto">
          <br class=3D"">
         </div>
         <div class=3D"" dir=3D"auto">
          &nbsp; &nbsp;Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinder=
s? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I as=
k: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?"
         </div>
         <div class=3D"" dir=3D"auto">
          <br class=3D"">
         </div>-rick
        </div>
        <div class=3D"" dir=3D"auto">
         <br class=3D"">
         <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"ox-ef884f7222-gmail_quote">
          <div class=3D"ox-ef884f7222-gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">
           On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack &lt;=20
           <a class=3D"" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a>&gt; wrote:=20
           <br class=3D"">
          </div>
          <blockquote>
           I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time =
of quarantine.&nbsp; It down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusetts the =
stay at home order will be&nbsp; completely lifted for several of more week=
s, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.=20
           <br class=3D""> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; I=E2=80=99ve had a c=
heckered history with master cylinders. In the past I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c o=
ff to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically=
 fail soon after reinstallation.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m figuring that I can impr=
ove on that record.&nbsp; When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review=
 the rebuild process the article recommended red grease.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=
=99t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease.&nbsp; In the abs=
ence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do th=
e rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease.&nbsp; A=
bout the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty price=
y, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping.=20
           <br class=3D""> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Any advice would be =
appreciated.=20
           <br class=3D""> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Best,=20
           <br class=3D""> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Bob=20
           <br class=3D""> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; =E2=80=9972 TR6=20
           <br class=3D""> _______________________________________________=
=20
           <br class=3D""> Support=20
           <a class=3D"" href=3D"http://Team.Net">Team.Net</a>=20
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te.html" rel=3D"noopener">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>=20
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---

From: Rochlin Robert <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 08:34:58 -0400

--===============0007222045619900989==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_7044A143-40AB-4D46-A5D3-EBD35D36E951"

--Apple-Mail=_7044A143-40AB-4D46-A5D3-EBD35D36E951
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

	Thanks for all the informed replies. I very much appreciate the =
advice.  I did source hydraulic assembly grease form British Parts =
Northwest and will attempt to rebuild the master, and if that fails to =
repair the problem, I=E2=80=99ll source a new one.  This is kind of one =
of those =E2=80=9CThe journey is more important the destination=E2=80=9D =
projects while I=E2=80=99m sticking around the house
	The master cylinder that I had totally fail had been re-sleeved =
as part of the original rebuild process.  We are fortunate to have an =
array of options in repairing our old Triumph cars. In watching =
automobile restoration shows, Im amazed at the lengths and expense that =
restorers have to go to get replacement parts.  In most cases we are =
only a phone call (mouse click) away from a part.
	After the m/c rebuild is finished I'll have caught up with the =
necessary maintenance on my cars and will move on to unnecessary =
maintenance.
	Thanks again all for the help and suggestions. Stay safe.
	Best,
	Bob=20
	=E2=80=9972 Tr6

> On May 17, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Don Hiscock <[email-masked]> =
wrote:
>=20
> Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are available?  I like =
the finish on the original Girling master cylinders, and I trust a =
brass-sleeved original more than a modern Chinese knockoff.  The price =
for something I'll likely do once in my life isn't a big consideration.  =
That my car still has the master cylinders it was build with makes me =
happy.
>=20
> But Standard-Triumph always appealed to "frugal" owners, so I get that =
a simple drop-in chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners.
>=20
> On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE <[email-masked] =
> If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to =
rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but =
sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost.  I have never =
rebuilt a master that was available new.  Time is money and bent panels =
and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous.  I learned very early =
in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual =
basis.  This saves components from failure and adds long life to them.  =
Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and =
they are at the most $80 new.  At this cost, it does not make sense to =
rebuild one.  I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may =
be more costly.=20
>> On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin <[email-masked] =
>>=20
>> Hi Richard,
>>   Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt components =
including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers,  I=E2=80=99ll =
never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
>> Best,
>> Bob=20
>>=20
>>> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < =
>>>=20
>>> Hello Bob, et al.,
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> -rick
>>>=20
>>> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < =
quarantine.  It down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusetts the stay =
at home order will be  completely lifted for several of more weeks, but =
some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.=20
>>>         I=E2=80=99ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. =
In the past I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable =
rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after =
reinstallation.  I=E2=80=99m figuring that I can improve on that record. =
 When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process =
the article recommended red grease.  I don=E2=80=99t have any, but I do =
have Volvo silicone breaks grease.  In the absence of red brake grease =
can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i =
bite the bullet and get the red brake grease.  About the only red grease =
I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 =
shipping.=20
>>>         Best,=20
>>>         =E2=80=9972 TR6=20
>>> _______________________________________________=20
>>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>=20
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96=20
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>=20=

>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums <http://www.team.net/forums>=20
>>>=20
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack>=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked] =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/[email-masked]>=20=

>>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>=20
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs =
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D""><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Thanks for all the informed =
replies. I very much appreciate the advice. &nbsp;I did source hydraulic =
assembly grease form British Parts Northwest and will attempt to rebuild =
the master, and if that fails to repair the problem, I=E2=80=99ll source =
a new one. &nbsp;This is kind of one of those =E2=80=9CThe journey is =
more important the destination=E2=80=9D projects while I=E2=80=99m =
sticking around the house<div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>The master cylinder that I had =
totally fail had been re-sleeved as part of the original rebuild =
process. &nbsp;We are fortunate to have an array of options in repairing =
our old Triumph cars. In watching automobile restoration shows, Im =
amazed at the lengths and expense that restorers have to go to get =
replacement parts. &nbsp;In most cases we are only a phone call (mouse =
click) away from a part.</div><div class=3D""><span =
class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>After the =
m/c rebuild is finished I'll have caught up with the necessary =
maintenance on my cars and will move on to unnecessary =
maintenance.</div><div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Thanks again all for the help and =
suggestions. Stay safe.</div><div class=3D""><span =
class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	=
</span>Best,</div><div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Bob&nbsp;<br class=3D""><div><span =
class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>=E2=80=9972=
 Tr6</div><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On May 17, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Don Hiscock &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"">Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are =
available?&nbsp; I like the finish on the original Girling master =
cylinders, and I trust a brass-sleeved original more than a modern =
Chinese knockoff.&nbsp; The price for something I'll likely do once in =
my life isn't a big consideration.&nbsp; That my car still has the =
master cylinders it was build with makes me happy.<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">But Standard-Triumph always =
appealed&nbsp;to "frugal" owners, so I get&nbsp;that a simple drop-in =
chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners.</div></div><br =
class=3D""><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=
 wrote:<br class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><u class=3D""></u>

 =20
  =20
=20
 <div class=3D"">
  <div =
style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:rgb(5=
1,51,51)" class=3D"">
   If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to =
rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but =
sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost.&nbsp; I have =
never rebuilt a master that was available new.&nbsp; Time is money and =
bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous.&nbsp; I =
learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at =
least on an annual basis.&nbsp; This saves components from failure and =
adds long life to them.&nbsp; Wilwood and others make excellent =
replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new.&nbsp; =
At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one.&nbsp; I understand =
the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly.&nbsp;=20
  </div>
  <div =
style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:rgb(5=
1,51,51)" class=3D"">
   Good luck for good brakes.&nbsp;
  </div>
  <div =
style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:rgb(5=
1,51,51)" class=3D"">
   Dave H.
  </div>
  <blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"">
   On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:=20
   <br class=3D"">=20
   <br class=3D""> Hi Richard,
   <div class=3D"">
    I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a =
complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6.&nbsp; As =
I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling =
out of the garage and the brakes totally failed.&nbsp; The TR6 rolled =
int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 =
hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder =
as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6.&nbsp; They =
rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it.&nbsp; After about 8 =
months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly=E2=80=A6 I replaced it =
with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now =
I=E2=80=99m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I =
am going to replace the seals myself.
   </div>
   <div class=3D"">
    &nbsp;&nbsp;Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt =
components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, =
&nbsp;I=E2=80=99ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
   </div>
   <div class=3D"">
    Best,
   </div>
   <div class=3D"">
    Bob=20
    <br class=3D"">
    <div class=3D"">
     <br class=3D"">
     <blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"">
      <div class=3D"">
       On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay &lt;=20
       <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:
      </div>
      <br class=3D"">
      <div class=3D"">
       <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
        <div class=3D"">
         Hello Bob,=20
         <em class=3D"">et al.</em>,
        </div>
        <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
         <br class=3D"">
         <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
          &nbsp; &nbsp;Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are =
relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are =
beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The =
'younglings' seem to think an=20
          <em class=3D"">All Clear</em> has been sounded and they're =
back face to face. I wish them luck.
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
          <br class=3D"">
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
          &nbsp; &nbsp;I have had two, fresh from the box,&nbsp; M/Cs =
fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and =
disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things =
right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The =
question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs =
fail?
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
          &nbsp; &nbsp;In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, =
the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the =
booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit =
would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked =
perfectly and still works great today!
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
          <br class=3D"">
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
          &nbsp; &nbsp;Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt =
cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something =
wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?"
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
          <br class=3D"">
         </div>-rick
        </div>
        <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
         <br class=3D"">
         <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
          <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">
           On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack &lt;=20=

           <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:=20
           <br class=3D"">
          </div>
          <blockquote class=3D"">
           I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this =
time of quarantine.&nbsp; It down=E2=80=99t look like here in =
Massachusetts the stay at home order will be&nbsp; completely lifted for =
several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be =
allowed to reopen.=20
           <br class=3D""> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; I=E2=80=99ve had =
a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I=E2=80=99ve sent =
m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them =
catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m =
figuring that I can improve on that record.&nbsp; When I went to the =
Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article =
recommended red grease.&nbsp; I don=E2=80=99t have any, but I do have =
Volvo silicone breaks grease.&nbsp; In the absence of red brake grease =
can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i =
bite the bullet and get the red brake grease.&nbsp; About the only red =
grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus =
$8.00 shipping.=20
           <br class=3D""> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Any advice would =
be appreciated.=20
           <br class=3D""> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Best,=20
           <br class=3D""> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Bob=20
           <br class=3D""> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; =E2=80=9972 TR6=20=

           <br class=3D""> =
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From: Don Hiscock <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 12:58:51 -0500

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Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are available?  I like the
finish on the original Girling master cylinders, and I trust a
brass-sleeved original more than a modern Chinese knockoff.  The price for
something I'll likely do once in my life isn't a big consideration.  That
my car still has the master cylinders it was build with makes me happy.

But Standard-Triumph always appealed to "frugal" owners, so I get that a
simple drop-in chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners.

On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE <[email-masked]> wrote:

> If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild
> an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending =
it
> off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost.  I have never rebuilt a
> master that was available new.  Time is money and bent panels and paint
> repair are too, beside being dangerous.  I learned very early in my
> mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis.
> This saves components from failure and adds long life to them.  Wilwood a=
nd
> others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the
> most $80 new.  At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one.  I
> understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly.
> Good luck for good brakes.
> Dave H.
>
> worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the gara=
ge
> and the brakes totally failed.  The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented th=
e
> door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon.=
 I
> sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body
> shop fixed the TR6.  They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled
> it.  After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly=E2=80=
=A6 I
> replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fi=
ne
> but now I=E2=80=99m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it a=
gain I am
>   Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt components inc=
luding
> starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers,  I=E2=80=99ll never send=
 a master
> cylinder to a rebuilder again.
> Best,
> Bob
>
> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < [email-masked]>
> wrote:
>
> Hello Bob, *et al.*,
>
> stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to ventur=
e
> out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think
> an *All Clear* has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish
> them luck.
>
>    I have had two, fresh from the box,  M/Cs fail then a third, working
> fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they a=
re
> always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on th=
e
> 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is t=
o
> ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
> circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear
> brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid
> through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works
> great today!
>
>    Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in Chin=
a
> just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/=
C
> "fail catastrophically?"
>
> -rick
>
> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <
> [email-masked]> wrote:
>
> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of
> quarantine.  It down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusetts the stay a=
t home
> order will be  completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some
> business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.
e past
> I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to h=
ave them
> catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation.  I=E2=80=99m figuring th=
at I can
> improve on that record.  When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to revie=
w
> the rebuild process the article recommended red grease.  I don=E2=80=99t =
have any,
> but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease.  In the absence of red brake
> grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or
> should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease.  About the only re=
d
> grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus
> $8.00 shipping.
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are availab=
le?=C2=A0 I like the finish on the original Girling master cylinders, and I=
 trust a brass-sleeved original more than a modern Chinese knockoff.=C2=A0 =
The price for something I&#39;ll likely do once in my life isn&#39;t a big =
consideration.=C2=A0 That my car still has the master cylinders it was buil=
d with makes me happy.<div><br></div><div>But Standard-Triumph always appea=
led=C2=A0to &quot;frugal&quot; owners, so I get=C2=A0that a simple drop-in =
chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners.</div></div><br><div cl=
ass=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, May 17, 2=
020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">dlhog=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" st=
yle=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padd=
ing-left:1ex"><u></u>

 =20
  =20
=20
 <div>
  <div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51,51,51)">
   If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild=
 an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending i=
t off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost.=C2=A0 I have never rebuilt=
 a master that was available new.=C2=A0 Time is money and bent panels and p=
aint repair are too, beside being dangerous.=C2=A0 I learned very early in =
my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis.=
=C2=A0 This saves components from failure and adds long life to them.=C2=A0=
 Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they=
 are at the most $80 new.=C2=A0 At this cost, it does not make sense to reb=
uild one.=C2=A0 I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may b=
e more costly.=C2=A0=20
  </div>
  <div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51,51,51)">
   Good luck for good brakes.=C2=A0
  </div>
  <div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51,51,51)">
   Dave H.
  </div>
  <blockquote type=3D"cite">
   On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:rrochlin=
@comcast.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:=20
   <br>=20
   <br> Hi Richard,
   <div>
    I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete =
rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6.=C2=A0 As I recall it=
 worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garag=
e and the brakes totally failed.=C2=A0 The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dent=
ed the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive after=
noon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the =
body shop fixed the TR6.=C2=A0 They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I rein=
stalled it.=C2=A0 After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but s=
lowly=E2=80=A6 I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several sea=
sons working fine but now I=E2=80=99m getting the slow sinking pedal. Befor=
e replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself.
   </div>
   <div>
    =C2=A0=C2=A0Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt co=
mponents including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, =C2=A0I=
=E2=80=99ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
   </div>
   <div>
    Best,
   </div>
   <div>
    Bob=20
    <br>
    <div>
     <br>
     <blockquote type=3D"cite">
      <div>
       On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay &lt;=20
       <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">richa=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:
      </div>
      <br>
      <div>
       <div dir=3D"auto">
        <div>
         Hello Bob,=20
         <em>et al.</em>,
        </div>
        <div dir=3D"auto">
         <br>
         <div dir=3D"auto">
          =C2=A0 =C2=A0Glad you&#39;re well. Here is south Texas we too are=
 relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginni=
ng to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The &#39;youngling=
s&#39; seem to think an=20
          <em>All Clear</em> has been sounded and they&#39;re back face to =
face. I wish them luck.
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto">
          <br>
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto">
          =C2=A0 =C2=A0I have had two, fresh from the box,=C2=A0 M/Cs fail =
then a third, working fine. I don&#39;t wish to directly name and disparage=
 the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but t=
heir name does grow on the &#39;north side of the tree&#39;. The question I=
 ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto">
          =C2=A0 =C2=A0In one of my unit&#39;s failures, fresh from the box=
, the front brake circuit worked fine (that&#39;s the one closer to the boo=
ster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would=
 flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and s=
till works great today!
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto">
          <br>
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto">
          =C2=A0 =C2=A0Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinder=
s? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I as=
k: How did your M/C &quot;fail catastrophically?&quot;
         </div>
         <div dir=3D"auto">
          <br>
         </div>-rick
        </div>
        <div dir=3D"auto">
         <br>
         <div dir=3D"auto">
          <div dir=3D"ltr">
           On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack &lt;=20
           <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">6pack@=
autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:=20
           <br>
          </div>
          <blockquote>
           I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time =
of quarantine.=C2=A0 It down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusetts the =
stay at home order will be=C2=A0 completely lifted for several of more week=
s, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.=20
           <br> =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve had a checkered hi=
story with master cylinders. In the past I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c off to be re=
built by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon =
after reinstallation.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m figuring that I can improve on that=
 record.=C2=A0 When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuil=
d process the article recommended red grease.=C2=A0 I don=E2=80=99t have an=
y, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease.=C2=A0 In the absence of red =
brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or=
 should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease.=C2=A0 About the onl=
y red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 pl=
us $8.00 shipping.=20
           <br> =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Any advice would be appreciated=
.=20
           <br> =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Best,=20
           <br> =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Bob=20
           <br> =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =E2=80=9972 TR6=20
           <br> _______________________________________________=20
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