Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?

From: "bill beecher" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2020 18:31:53 -0600

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Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coating and wondering about
the best sealer.  My first thought is a bead of RTV on each side of the
gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on this?   BTW, both
surfaces are in excellent condition.

Thanks,

Bill

TS30800L

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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coating =
and wondering about the best sealer.&nbsp; My first thought is a bead of =
RTV on each side of the gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the =
List on this?&nbsp;&nbsp; BTW, both surfaces are in excellent =
condition.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Bill<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>TS30800L<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2020 19:51:57 -0500

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A favorite of many racers is =E2=80=9CThe Right Stuff=E2=80=9D I believe =
made by Permatex.
JVV

From: bill beecher=20
Sent: Tuesday, February 4, 2020 7:31 PM
To: 'Triumphs'=20
Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?

Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coating and wondering =
about the best sealer.  My first thought is a bead of RTV on each side =
of the gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on this?   BTW, =
both surfaces are in excellent condition.

=20

Thanks,

Bill

TS30800L

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  =

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<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>A favorite of many racers is =E2=80=9CThe Right Stuff=E2=80=9D I =
believe made by=20
Permatex.</DIV>
<DIV>JVV</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]>bill=20
beecher</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, February 4, 2020 7:31 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]>'Triumphs'</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV class=3DWordSection1>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder =
coating and=20
wondering about the best sealer.&nbsp; My first thought is a bead of RTV =
on each=20
side of the gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on=20
this?&nbsp;&nbsp; BTW, both surfaces are in excellent =
condition.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p></o:p>&nbsp;</P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Bill<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>TS30800L<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
** [email-masked] **<BR><BR>Donate:=20
http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs&nbsp;=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]<BR>=
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From: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2020 20:11:30 -0500

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On Tue, Feb 4, 2020, 19:32 bill beecher <[email-masked]> wrote:

> gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on this?
>

I'm not the whole list, but I'd use Hylomar.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CFH9GZG/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are a number of different flavors, but I think it's the right
one...I'm on mobile, so it's hard to see

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<div dir=3D"auto"><br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Feb 4, 2020, 19:32 bill beecher &lt;<=
a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wro=
te:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;b=
order-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"#05=
63C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3D"m_-1886468811097256470WordSection1"><=
p class=3D"MsoNormal">Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coatin=
g and wondering about the best sealer.=C2=A0 My first thought is a bead of =
RTV on each side of the gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List o=
n this?=C2=A0 =C2=A0</p></div></div></blockquote></div><div dir=3D"auto"><b=
r></div><div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;m not the whole list, but I&#39;d use Hylom=
ar.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><a href=
=3D"https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CFH9GZG/ref=3Dsspa_mw_detail_0?ie=3DU=
TF8&amp;psc=3D1">https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CFH9GZG/ref=3Dsspa_mw_de=
tail_0?ie=3DUTF8&amp;psc=3D1</a></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">There are a number of different flavors, but I think it&#39;s the=
 right one...I&#39;m on mobile, so it&#39;s hard to see</div><div dir=3D"au=
to"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><blockquote class=3D"=
gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-=
left:1ex">
</blockquote></div></div>

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From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2020 20:18:26 -0500

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I have had good results with Permatex "Ultra Black" gasket maker. Part #
82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was only Permatex #1 which
was hardening and #2 which remained slightly pliable. Now, it seems that
there is a gasket goop for white cars travelling north with 6 cyl. engines,
a different product for dark color cars travelling east with 4 cyl. engines,
etc., etc. The choices on the rack at the local NAPA store can be
overwhelming, just like the varieties of Loctite that you can buy.

I have found that many gaskets for tractor restoration are no longer
available from anyone and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only alternative.
Sometimes, it is one casting being sealed against another casting - in those
cases, a very small bead is needed. When there is a pressed steel cover
being assembled to a casting, you know that there will be much more of a
chance for a warped or bent interface which will require a thicker bead. But
we all know that many engine and other drivetrain problems are the result of
excess gasket goop becoming entangled into suction screens, bearings, oil
galleries and other places. Truthfully, I always get very nervous when I am
repairing somebody's tractor or whatever and I see ribbons of blue RTV
sealer inside of a compartment. I'm sure that many leaks are the result of
deformed oil pans, valve covers, tappet covers, etc. due to a previous
"mechanic" overtightening bolts. "If 20 ft.-lbs. are good, then 40 must be
better" Unless you have access to a granite or cast iron surface plate, it
can be difficult to determine if an oil pan is warped. Years ago when I was
teaching in the shop, I would use the surface of our big table saw (all cast
iron) as a makeshift surface plate when checking small parts for flatness.

Alex Thomson

From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of bill
beecher
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2020 7:32 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?

Thanks,

Bill

TS30800L

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'>I have =
had good results with Permatex &#8220;Ultra Black&#8221; gasket maker. =
Part # 82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was only Permatex =
#1 which was hardening and #2 which remained slightly pliable. Now, it =
seems that there is a gasket goop for white cars travelling north with 6 =
cyl. engines, a different product for dark color cars travelling east =
with 4 cyl. engines,&nbsp; etc., etc. The choices on the rack at the =
local NAPA store can be overwhelming, just like the varieties of Loctite =
that you can buy.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'>I have =
found that many gaskets for tractor restoration are no longer available =
from anyone and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only alternative. =
Sometimes, it is one casting being sealed against another casting =
&#8211; in those cases, a very small bead is needed. When there is a =
pressed steel cover being assembled to a casting, you know that there =
will be much more of a chance for a warped or bent interface which will =
require a thicker bead. But we all know that many engine and other =
drivetrain problems are the result of excess gasket goop becoming =
entangled into suction screens, bearings, oil galleries and other =
places. Truthfully, I always get very nervous when I am repairing =
somebody&#8217;s tractor or whatever and I see ribbons of blue RTV =
sealer inside of a compartment. I&#8217;m sure that many leaks are the =
result of deformed oil pans, valve covers, tappet covers, etc. due to a =
previous &#8220;mechanic&#8221; overtightening bolts. &#8220;If 20 =
ft.-lbs. are good, then 40 must be better&#8221; Unless you have access =
to a granite or cast iron surface plate, it can be difficult to =
determine if an oil pan is warped. Years ago when I was teaching in the =
shop, I would use the surface of our big table saw (all cast iron) as a =
makeshift surface plate when checking small parts for =
flatness.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'>Alex =
Thomson<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div=
><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt =
0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>bill beecher<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, February 04, 2020 7:32 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> 'Triumphs'<br><b>Subject:</b> [TR] Oil Pan =
Sealer?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Replacing =
the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coating and wondering about the =
best sealer.&nbsp; My first thought is a bead of RTV on each side of the =
gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on this?&nbsp;&nbsp; =
BTW, both surfaces are in excellent condition.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Bill<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>TS30800L<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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From: Tony Drews <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2020 19:26:50 -0600

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I second the Permatex Ultra Black - although the reason I use it (versus 
other brands or whatever) is that it's stocked at my local Farm & 
Fleet.  I use the Permatex copper colored for other surfaces (like front 
plate to front of engine) but ultra black for pan and timing cover 
gasket.  The Ultra Black is more durable / harder to remove than the 
ultra copper.  THIN layer on both sides of gasket so it doesn't ooze 
into the engine and gum up the works as Alex describes.

I also beat down any bolt hole dimples (due to previous over 
tightening).  If anything, having the bolt hole slightly concave on the 
sealing surface so it can pull back down to flat is preferable to having 
it stand proud of the surface.  Of course that's better done prior to 
the powder coating.  :)

Regards, Tony Drews

On 2/4/2020 7:18 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:
>
> I have had good results with Permatex “Ultra Black” gasket maker. Part 
> # 82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was only Permatex #1 
> which was hardening and #2 which remained slightly pliable. Now, it 
> seems that there is a gasket goop for white cars travelling north with 
> 6 cyl. engines, a different product for dark color cars travelling 
> east with 4 cyl. engines,  etc., etc. The choices on the rack at the 
> local NAPA store can be overwhelming, just like the varieties of 
> Loctite that you can buy.
>
> available from anyone and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only 
> alternative. Sometimes, it is one casting being sealed against another 
> casting – in those cases, a very small bead is needed. When there is a 
> pressed steel cover being assembled to a casting, you know that there 
> will be much more of a chance for a warped or bent interface which 
> will require a thicker bead. But we all know that many engine and 
> other drivetrain problems are the result of excess gasket goop 
> becoming entangled into suction screens, bearings, oil galleries and 
> other places. Truthfully, I always get very nervous when I am 
> repairing somebody’s tractor or whatever and I see ribbons of blue RTV 
> sealer inside of a compartment. I’m sure that many leaks are the 
> result of deformed oil pans, valve covers, tappet covers, etc. due to 
> a previous “mechanic” overtightening bolts. “If 20 ft.-lbs. are good, 
> then 40 must be better” Unless you have access to a granite or cast 
> iron surface plate, it can be difficult to determine if an oil pan is 
> warped. Years ago when I was teaching in the shop, I would use the 
> surface of our big table saw (all cast iron) as a makeshift surface 
> plate when checking small parts for flatness.
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> *From:*Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] *On Behalf Of 
> *bill beecher
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 04, 2020 7:32 PM
> *To:* 'Triumphs'
> *Subject:* [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?
>
> Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coating and wondering 
> about the best sealer.  My first thought is a bead of RTV on each side 
> of the gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on this?   
> BTW, both surfaces are in excellent condition.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> TS30800L
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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      charset=windows-1252">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>I second the Permatex Ultra Black - although the reason I use it
      (versus other brands or whatever) is that it's stocked at my local
      Farm &amp; Fleet.  I use the Permatex copper colored for other
      surfaces (like front plate to front of engine) but ultra black for
      pan and timing cover gasket.  The Ultra Black is more durable /
      harder to remove than the ultra copper.  THIN layer on both sides
      of gasket so it doesn't ooze into the engine and gum up the works
      as Alex describes.</p>
    <p>I also beat down any bolt hole dimples (due to previous over
      tightening).  If anything, having the bolt hole slightly concave
      on the sealing surface so it can pull back down to flat is
      preferable to having it stand proud of the surface.  Of course
      that's better done prior to the powder coating.  :)</p>
    <p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/4/2020 7:18 PM, Alex &amp; Janet
      Thomson wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D">I have had good
            results with Permatex “Ultra Black” gasket maker. Part #
            82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was only
            Permatex #1 which was hardening and #2 which remained
            slightly pliable. Now, it seems that there is a gasket goop
            for white cars travelling north with 6 cyl. engines, a
            different product for dark color cars travelling east with 4
            cyl. engines,  etc., etc. The choices on the rack at the
            local NAPA store can be overwhelming, just like the
            varieties of Loctite that you can buy.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D">I have found that
            many gaskets for tractor restoration are no longer available
            from anyone and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only
            alternative. Sometimes, it is one casting being sealed
            against another casting – in those cases, a very small bead
            is needed. When there is a pressed steel cover being
            assembled to a casting, you know that there will be much
            more of a chance for a warped or bent interface which will
            require a thicker bead. But we all know that many engine and
            other drivetrain problems are the result of excess gasket
            goop becoming entangled into suction screens, bearings, oil
            galleries and other places. Truthfully, I always get very
            nervous when I am repairing somebody’s tractor or whatever
            and I see ribbons of blue RTV sealer inside of a
            compartment. I’m sure that many leaks are the result of
            deformed oil pans, valve covers, tappet covers, etc. due to
            a previous “mechanic” overtightening bolts. “If 20 ft.-lbs.
            are good, then 40 must be better” Unless you have access to
            a granite or cast iron surface plate, it can be difficult to
            determine if an oil pan is warped. Years ago when I was
            teaching in the shop, I would use the surface of our big
            table saw (all cast iron) as a makeshift surface plate when
            checking small parts for flatness.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D">Alex Thomson<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <div>
          <div style="border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF
            1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
            <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;">
                Triumphs [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:[email-masked]">mailto:[email-masked]</a>] <b>On
                  Behalf Of </b>bill beecher<br>
                <b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, February 04, 2020 7:32 PM<br>
                <b>To:</b> 'Triumphs'<br>
                <b>Subject:</b> [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          </div>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh
          powder coating and wondering about the best sealer.  My first
          thought is a bead of RTV on each side of the gasket, what is
          the collective wisdom of the List on this?   BTW, both
          surfaces are in excellent condition.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Bill<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">TS30800L<o:p></o:p></p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
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From: Frank Fisher <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 01:48:09 +0000 (UTC)

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 rtv on the pan side. let it set overnight on a flat surface.Hylomar on the=
 other surface when you marry it to the bottom of the motor.will come off e=
asy next time and be re-usable if you dont have a new one.
frank
    On Tuesday, February 4, 2020, 04:32:37 PM PST, bill beecher <bill_beech=
[email-masked]> wrote: =20
=20
=20
Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coating and wondering about =
the best sealer.=C2=A0 My first thought is a bead of RTV on each side of th=
e gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on this?=C2=A0=C2=A0 BT=
W, both surfaces are in excellent condition.

 =C2=A0

Thanks,

Bill

TS30800L

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archiv=
e

[email-masked]
 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp98f508a1yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px=
;"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">rtv on the pan side. let it =
set overnight on a flat surface.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false=
">Hylomar on the other surface when you marry it to the bottom of the motor=
.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">will come off easy next time =
and be re-usable if you dont have a new one.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-set=
dir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">frank</div><=
div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydpf13e97c4yahoo_quoted_1411357864" class=3D"ydpf1=
3e97c4yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Tuesday, February 4, 2020, 04:32:37 PM PST, bill bee=
cher &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"ydpf13e97c4yiv9404323604"><div><div class=
=3D"ydpf13e97c4yiv9404323604WordSection1"><p class=3D"ydpf13e97c4yiv9404323=
604MsoNormal">Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coating and wo=
ndering about the best sealer.&nbsp; My first thought is a bead of RTV on e=
ach side of the gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on this?&=
nbsp;&nbsp; BTW, both surfaces are in excellent condition.</p><p class=3D"y=
dpf13e97c4yiv9404323604MsoNormal"> &nbsp;</p><p class=3D"ydpf13e97c4yiv9404=
323604MsoNormal">Thanks,</p><p class=3D"ydpf13e97c4yiv9404323604MsoNormal">=
Bill</p><p class=3D"ydpf13e97c4yiv9404323604MsoNormal">TS30800L</p></div></=
div></div>** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"nofollow" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a> **<br><br>Donate: <a href=3D"ht=
tp://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/piper=
mail/triumphs " rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipe=
rmail/triumphs </a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"nofollow=
" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Mana=
ge: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yah=
oo.com" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/op=
tions/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br></div>
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From: Robert Rochlin <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:16:37 -0400

--===============4270954576243212127==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_C5AFCC30-28EC-43DA-9FF4-C3326A97DD07"

--Apple-Mail=_C5AFCC30-28EC-43DA-9FF4-C3326A97DD07
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I had the same problem as Tony.  The front plate of my engine had a =
dimple that didn=E2=80=99t notice until I went to reinstall the timing =
chain cover. I used Great Stuff to seal the timing chain cover instead =
of removing the front plate to flatten ou the dimple and it worked =
really well. I believe that the oil pan was sealed the same way by the =
engine rebuilder. I=E2=80=99ve been told that great stuff is very =
difficult to remove, but fortunately I=E2=80=99ve not had fine out for =
myself yet.
	Best
	Bob
	=E2=80=9972 TR6

> On Feb 4, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Tony Drews <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> I second the Permatex Ultra Black - although the reason I use it =
(versus other brands or whatever) is that it's stocked at my local Farm =
& Fleet.  I use the Permatex copper colored for other surfaces (like =
front plate to front of engine) but ultra black for pan and timing cover =
gasket.  The Ultra Black is more durable / harder to remove than the =
ultra copper.  THIN layer on both sides of gasket so it doesn't ooze =
into the engine and gum up the works as Alex describes.
>=20
> I also beat down any bolt hole dimples (due to previous over =
tightening).  If anything, having the bolt hole slightly concave on the =
sealing surface so it can pull back down to flat is preferable to having =
it stand proud of the surface.  Of course that's better done prior to =
the powder coating.  :)
>> I have had good results with Permatex =E2=80=9CUltra Black=E2=80=9D =
gasket maker. Part # 82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was =
only Permatex #1 which was hardening and #2 which remained slightly =
pliable. Now, it seems that there is a gasket goop for white cars =
travelling north with 6 cyl. engines, a different product for dark color =
cars travelling east with 4 cyl. engines,  etc., etc. The choices on the =
rack at the local NAPA store can be overwhelming, just like the =
varieties of Loctite that you can buy.
>> =20
>> I have found that many gaskets for tractor restoration are no longer =
available from anyone and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only =
alternative. Sometimes, it is one casting being sealed against another =
casting =E2=80=93 in those cases, a very small bead is needed. When =
there is a pressed steel cover being assembled to a casting, you know =
that there will be much more of a chance for a warped or bent interface =
which will require a thicker bead. But we all know that many engine and =
other drivetrain problems are the result of excess gasket goop becoming =
entangled into suction screens, bearings, oil galleries and other =
places. Truthfully, I always get very nervous when I am repairing =
somebody=E2=80=99s tractor or whatever and I see ribbons of blue RTV =
sealer inside of a compartment. I=E2=80=99m sure that many leaks are the =
result of deformed oil pans, valve covers, tappet covers, etc. due to a =
previous =E2=80=9Cmechanic=E2=80=9D overtightening bolts. =E2=80=9CIf 20 =
ft.-lbs. are good, then 40 must be better=E2=80=9D Unless you have =
access to a granite or cast iron surface plate, it can be difficult to =
determine if an oil pan is warped. Years ago when I was teaching in the =
shop, I would use the surface of our big table saw (all cast iron) as a =
makeshift surface plate when checking small parts for flatness.
>> =20
>> Alex Thomson
>> =20
>> From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked] =
>> =20
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>> TS30800L
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive =
<http://www.team.net/archive>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked] =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

--Apple-Mail=_C5AFCC30-28EC-43DA-9FF4-C3326A97DD07
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I =
had the same problem as Tony. &nbsp;The front plate of my engine had a =
dimple that didn=E2=80=99t notice until I went to reinstall the timing =
chain cover. I used Great Stuff to seal the timing chain cover instead =
of removing the front plate to flatten ou the dimple and it worked =
really well. I believe that the oil pan was sealed the same way by the =
engine rebuilder. I=E2=80=99ve been told that great stuff is very =
difficult to remove, but fortunately I=E2=80=99ve not had fine out for =
myself yet.<div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>Best</div><div class=3D""><span =
class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre">	=
</span>Bob</div><div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre">	</span>=E2=80=9972 TR6<br =
class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Feb 4, 2020, at 9:26 PM, Tony Drews &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D"">
 =20
    <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html;
      charset=3Dwindows-1252" class=3D"">
 =20
  <div class=3D""><p class=3D"">I second the Permatex Ultra Black - =
although the reason I use it
      (versus other brands or whatever) is that it's stocked at my local
      Farm &amp; Fleet.&nbsp; I use the Permatex copper colored for =
other
      surfaces (like front plate to front of engine) but ultra black for
      pan and timing cover gasket.&nbsp; The Ultra Black is more durable =
/
      harder to remove than the ultra copper.&nbsp; THIN layer on both =
sides
      of gasket so it doesn't ooze into the engine and gum up the works
      as Alex describes.</p><p class=3D"">I also beat down any bolt hole =
dimples (due to previous over
      tightening).&nbsp; If anything, having the bolt hole slightly =
concave
      on the sealing surface so it can pull back down to flat is
      preferable to having it stand proud of the surface.&nbsp; Of =
course
      that's better done prior to the powder coating.&nbsp; :)</p><p =
class=3D"">Regards, Tony Drews<br class=3D"">
    </p>
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 2/4/2020 7:18 PM, Alex &amp; Janet
      Thomson wrote:<br class=3D"">
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite" =
cite=3D"mid:[email-masked]" class=3D"">
      <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html;
        charset=3Dwindows-1252" class=3D"">
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      <div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span =
style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class=3D"">I have had good
            results with Permatex =E2=80=9CUltra Black=E2=80=9D gasket =
maker. Part #
            82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was only
            Permatex #1 which was hardening and #2 which remained
            slightly pliable. Now, it seems that there is a gasket goop
            for white cars travelling north with 6 cyl. engines, a
            different product for dark color cars travelling east with 4
            cyl. engines,&nbsp; etc., etc. The choices on the rack at =
the
            local NAPA store can be overwhelming, just like the
            varieties of Loctite that you can buy.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span =
style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span =
style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class=3D"">I have found that
            many gaskets for tractor restoration are no longer available
            from anyone and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only
            alternative. Sometimes, it is one casting being sealed
            against another casting =E2=80=93 in those cases, a very =
small bead
            is needed. When there is a pressed steel cover being
            assembled to a casting, you know that there will be much
            more of a chance for a warped or bent interface which will
            require a thicker bead. But we all know that many engine and
            other drivetrain problems are the result of excess gasket
            goop becoming entangled into suction screens, bearings, oil
            galleries and other places. Truthfully, I always get very
            nervous when I am repairing somebody=E2=80=99s tractor or =
whatever
            and I see ribbons of blue RTV sealer inside of a
            compartment. I=E2=80=99m sure that many leaks are the result =
of
            deformed oil pans, valve covers, tappet covers, etc. due to
            a previous =E2=80=9Cmechanic=E2=80=9D overtightening bolts. =
=E2=80=9CIf 20 ft.-lbs.
            are good, then 40 must be better=E2=80=9D Unless you have =
access to
            a granite or cast iron surface plate, it can be difficult to
            determine if an oil pan is warped. Years ago when I was
            teaching in the shop, I would use the surface of our big
            table saw (all cast iron) as a makeshift surface plate when
            checking small parts for flatness.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span =
style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span =
style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class=3D"">Alex Thomson<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span =
style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
        <div class=3D"">
          <div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF
            1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in" class=3D""><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal"><b class=3D""><span =
style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&=
quot;" class=3D"">From:</span></b><span =
style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&=
quot;" class=3D"">
                Triumphs [<a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">mailto:triumphs-bounces@au=
tox.team.net</a>] <b class=3D"">On
                  Behalf Of </b>bill beecher<br class=3D"">
                <b class=3D"">Sent:</b> Tuesday, February 04, 2020 7:32 =
PM<br class=3D"">
                <b class=3D"">To:</b> 'Triumphs'<br class=3D"">
                <b class=3D"">Subject:</b> [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p>
          </div>
        </div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal">Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh
          powder coating and wondering about the best sealer.&nbsp; My =
first
          thought is a bead of RTV on each side of the gasket, what is
          the collective wisdom of the List on this?&nbsp;&nbsp; BTW, =
both
          surfaces are in excellent condition.<o:p class=3D""></o:p></p><p=
 class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal">Thanks,<o:p class=3D""></o:p></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal">Bill<o:p class=3D""></o:p></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal">TS30800L<o:p class=3D""></o:p></p>
      </div>
      <br class=3D"">
      <fieldset class=3D"mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
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