Subject: Re: [TR] clutch for pin

From: Irv Korey <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2020 14:28:33 -0600

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On Fri, Feb 7, 2020 at 2:19 PM Sujit Roy <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I've been deciding whether to fit a stronger clutch fork pin to my Triumph
> than the original type.
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]>

You are better off cross drilling the shaft and fork, and inserting a roll
pin or bolt in there as well as the fork pin.
If you do this, you will never have a broken fork pin ever again. There are
plenty of places on the Internet where you can
read/view this to see how it should be done. Easy peasy.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Feb 7, 2020 at 2:19 PM Sujit =
Roy &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&=
gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0=
px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div =
dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;ve been deciding whether=C2=A0to fit a stronger clutch=C2=
=A0fork pin to my Triumph than the original=C2=A0type. <br></div><a href=3D=
"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"=
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"></a></blockquote><div><br></div><div>You are =
better off cross drilling the shaft and fork, and inserting a roll pin or b=
olt in there as well as the fork pin.</div><div>If you do this, you will ne=
ver have a broken fork pin ever again. There are plenty of places on the In=
ternet where you can</div><div>read/view this to see how it should be done.=
 Easy peasy.</div><div><br></div><div>Irv Korey</div><div>74 TR6 CF22767U</=
div><div>Highland Park, IL<br></div></div></div>

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From: John Innis <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2020 14:29:24 -0600

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Are you talking about the pivot pin, where the fork attaches to the
bellhousing, or the slave cyl push rod pivot?
For the pivot pin, I went to the local farm store and found a grade 8 bolt
that fit very nicely.  It has been in there a couple years now with no
issues.  I can't remember the exact diameter and length I bought but they
are pretty cheap.  Take the pin with you and get a couple different
diameters and various lengths.

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Are you talking about the pivot pin, where the fork a=
ttaches to the bellhousing, or the slave cyl push rod pivot?</div><div>For =
the pivot pin, I went to the local farm store and found a grade 8 bolt that=
 fit very nicely.=C2=A0 It has been in there a couple years now with no iss=
ues.=C2=A0 I can&#39;t remember the exact diameter and length I bought but =
they are pretty cheap.=C2=A0 Take the pin with you and get a couple differe=
nt diameters and various lengths.=C2=A0 <br></div></div>

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2020 14:26:56 -0800

> You are better off cross drilling the shaft and fork, and 
> inserting a roll pin or bolt in there as well as the fork pin.
> If you do this, you will never have a broken fork pin ever 
> again.

That's what I did, using a grade 8 1/4-28 bolt and cutting off the threads
so the unthreaded shank went into the fork on both sides.  Also drilled the
hole a bit undersize, so it was a light press fit (tapped into place with
BFH).

But considering that the original taper pin lasted over 40 years, I doubt
I'll be around long enough to judge whether it's really any improvement or
not.

Don't forget to install a taper pin while drilling the fork and shaft; and
get the fork turned the right way.  My shaft has an extra hole for some
strange reason ...

-- Randall