Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge

From: Bob <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 11:11:23 -0500

Jim,

Have you tried Ebay or Craigslist? Used to be plenty of stuff like that 
in the past.

Bob

On 2/17/20 11:07 AM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
> Ordered a new enameled hood badge as the body shop had tried to bend it to
> fit the holes and cracked the enamel.  The holes on my 62 TR4 hood are not
> quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.  This one is from
> England.  Any thoughts on fixing this before I experiment.  Badges ae too
> expensive to try and bend the mounting tips.  I am thinking I need to shave
> one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase length between holes. I
> know this may allow badge to shift after install, but what options are
> there?
> Thanks
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 61 TR3A
> 62 TR4
> 75 TR6
> 81 TR8
>
>
> ** [email-masked] **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From: "wbeech" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 11:15:47 -0600

IF you elongate the hole a little to fit, it will be hidden.  It will still
be a snug fit as the posts will occupy the maximum length.  If still unsure
you could repack the void with some clear JB Weld or other filler.
Bill B
TS30800L

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Jim
Henningsen
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 10:08 AM
To: 'Triumphs' <[email-masked]>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: John Macartney <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 17:28:44 +0000

I agree with Bill Beecher. Elongate one of the holes with a round needle file and then touch in the bare metal with a small dab of of body colour to impede rust. The retaining spire clips will hold it tight and snug.

Jonmac

At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
Lord Uxbridge:  “By God, Sir - I’ve lost my leg”
Duke of Wellington: “By God, Sir - so you have!”

> On 17 Feb 2020, at 17:15, wbeech <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From: Don Hiscock <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 11:30:39 -0600

--===============5357149224212135859==

--000000000000a12018059ec8ea6a

The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on my TR3B (not the
original, which was upgraded to this one thirty five years ago) are
slightly out of round.  The original style inserts would never have
worked.  For a few years I had the flat spring speed nuts on the mounting
posts, and the badge was tight with no movement.  But I hate those things.

A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts on my
reproduction badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts and plastic
washers.  It accomodates the slightly out-of-round holes quite well.  I'm
very happy with this approach and would recommend it for anyone who thinks
it might make sense for their car.

Don
Saint Louis
1962 TR3B

On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08 AM Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on my TR3B=
 (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thirty five years ago) a=
re slightly=C2=A0out of round.=C2=A0 The original style inserts would never=
 have worked.=C2=A0 For a few years I had the flat spring speed nuts on the=
 mounting posts, and the badge was tight with no movement.=C2=A0 But I hate=
 those things.<div><br></div><div>A few years ago I threaded (carefully) wi=
th a die the posts on my reproduction badge and it&#39;s now mounted with n=
yloc nuts and plastic washers.=C2=A0 It accomodates the slightly out-of-rou=
nd holes quite well.=C2=A0 I&#39;m very happy with this approach and would =
recommend it for anyone who thinks it might make sense for their car.</div>=
<div><br></div><div>Don</div><div>Saint Louis</div><div>1962 TR3B</div></di=
v><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On M=
on, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08 AM Jim Henningsen &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:trguy75@g=
mail.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gm=
ail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,=
204,204);padding-left:1ex">Ordered a new enameled hood badge as the body sh=
op had tried to bend it to<br>
fit the holes and cracked the enamel.=C2=A0 The holes on my 62 TR4 hood are=
 not<br>
quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.=C2=A0 This one is from<=
br>
England.=C2=A0 Any thoughts on fixing this before I experiment.=C2=A0 Badge=
s ae too<br>
expensive to try and bend the mounting tips.=C2=A0 I am thinking I need to =
shave<br>
one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase length between holes. =
I<br>
know this may allow badge to shift after install, but what options are<br>
there?=C2=A0 <br>
Thanks<br>
Jim Henningsen=C2=A0 <br>
Ocala FL<br>
61 TR3A<br>
62 TR4<br>
75 TR6<br>
81 TR8<br>
<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triumphs@au=
tox.team.net</a> **<br>
<br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=C2=A0 <a h=
ref=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div>

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From: Roger Elliott <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 12:15:04 -0600

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Is it possible to use some good heavy duty double sided tape?  Or is the 
badge too heavy for that?  i know I have heard of it being used in some 
places.
Roger

On 2/17/2020 11:30 AM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> worked.  For a few years I had the flat spring speed nuts on the 
> mounting posts, and the badge was tight with no movement.  But I hate 
> those things.
>
> washers.  It accomodates the slightly out-of-round holes quite well.  
> I'm very happy with this approach and would recommend it for anyone 
> who thinks it might make sense for their car.
>
> Don
> Saint Louis
> 1962 TR3B
>
> On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08 AM Jim Henningsen <[email-masked] 
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    <p>Is it possible to use some good heavy duty double sided tape?  Or
      is the badge too heavy for that?  i know I have heard of it being
      used in some places.<br>
      Roger <br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/17/2020 11:30 AM, Don Hiscock
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on
        my TR3B (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thirty
        five years ago) are slightly out of round.  The original style
        inserts would never have worked.  For a few years I had the flat
        spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge was tight
        with no movement.  But I hate those things.
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts
          on my reproduction badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts
          and plastic washers.  It accomodates the slightly out-of-round
          holes quite well.  I'm very happy with this approach and would
          recommend it for anyone who thinks it might make sense for
          their car.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Don</div>
        <div>Saint Louis</div>
        <div>1962 TR3B</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08
          AM Jim Henningsen &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]"
            moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Ordered
          a new enameled hood badge as the body shop had tried to bend
          it to<br>
          fit the holes and cracked the enamel.  The holes on my 62 TR4
          hood are not<br>
          quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.  This one
          is from<br>
          England.  Any thoughts on fixing this before I experiment. 
          Badges ae too<br>
          expensive to try and bend the mounting tips.  I am thinking I
          need to shave<br>
          one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase length
          between holes. I<br>
          know this may allow badge to shift after install, but what
          options are<br>
          there?  <br>
          Thanks<br>
          Jim Henningsen  <br>
          Ocala FL<br>
          61 TR3A<br>
          62 TR4<br>
          75 TR6<br>
          81 TR8<br>
          <br>
          <br>
          ** <a href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
            moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a> **<br>
          <br>
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          <a href="http://www.team.net/archive" rel="noreferrer"
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        </blockquote>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

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From: "Dressler Jr., Edward Thomas" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 18:16:20 +0000

--===============8934799926119574961==
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	boundary="_000_SN1PR02MB387284A0EBFCF7919D9E38AAA3160SN1PR02MB3872namp_"

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I tried a new one and it didn't sit flat.   found a good old one.  No way w=
ould the new one fit!

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>
________________________________
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Don Hiscock <=
[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 12:30:39 PM
To: Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]>
Cc: Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge

The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on my TR3B (not the origina=
l, which was upgraded to this one thirty five years ago) are slightly out o=
f round.  The original style inserts would never have worked.  For a few ye=
ars I had the flat spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge w=
as tight with no movement.  But I hate those things.

A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts on my reproduct=
ion badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts and plastic washers.  It acc=
omodates the slightly out-of-round holes quite well.  I'm very happy with t=
his approach and would recommend it for anyone who thinks it might make sen=
se for their car.

Don
Saint Louis
1962 TR3B

[email-masked]>> wrote:
I

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________________________________
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Don Hiscock <=
[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 12:30:39 PM
To: Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]>
Cc: Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge

The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on my TR3B (not the origina=
l, which was upgraded to this one thirty five years ago) are slightly out o=
f round.  The original style inserts would never have worked.  For a few ye=
ars I had the flat spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge w=
as tight with no movement.  But I hate those things.

A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts on my reproduct=
ion badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts and plastic washers.  It acc=
omodates the slightly out-of-round holes quite well.  I'm very happy with t=
his approach and would recommend it for anyone who thinks it might make sen=
se for their car.

Don
Saint Louis
1962 TR3B

[email-masked]>> wrote:
I

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</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction:ltr; margin:0; padding:0; font-family:=
sans-serif; font-size:11pt; color:black">
I tried a new one and it didn't sit flat.&nbsp;&nbsp; found a good old one.=
&nbsp; No way would the new one fit!&nbsp;<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction:ltr; margin:0; padding:0; font-family:=
sans-serif; font-size:11pt; color:black">
<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction:ltr; margin:0; padding:0; font-family:=
sans-serif; font-size:11pt; color:black">
<br>
</div>
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sans-serif; font-size:11pt; color:black">
<span id=3D"ms-outlook-mobile-signature">
<div><br>
</div>
Get <a href=3D"https://aka.ms/ghei36">Outlook for Android</a></span><br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumphs=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Don Hiscock &lt;don.hiscock@gmail.=
com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, February 17, 2020 12:30:39 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Jim Henningsen &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on my TR3B=
 (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thirty five years ago) a=
re slightly&nbsp;out of round.&nbsp; The original style inserts would never=
 have worked.&nbsp; For a few years I had the flat
 spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge was tight with no m=
ovement.&nbsp; But I hate those things.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts on my repr=
oduction badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts and plastic washers.&nb=
sp; It accomodates the slightly out-of-round holes quite well.&nbsp; I'm ve=
ry happy with this approach and would recommend
 it for anyone who thinks it might make sense for their car.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Don</div>
<div>Saint Louis</div>
<div>1962 TR3B</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08 AM Ji=
m Henningsen &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>=
&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; bord=
er-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
Ordered a new enameled hood badge as the body shop had tried to bend it to<=
br>
fit the holes and cracked the enamel.&nbsp; The holes on my 62 TR4 hood are=
 not<br>
quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.&nbsp; This one is from<=
br>
England.&nbsp; Any thoughts on fixing this before I experiment.&nbsp; Badge=
s ae too<br>
expensive to try and bend the mounting tips.&nbsp; I am thinking I need to =
shave<br>
one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase length between holes. =
I<br>
know this may allow badge to shift after install, but what options are<br>
there?&nbsp; <br>
Thanks<br>
Jim Henningsen&nbsp; <br>
Ocala FL<br>
61 TR3A<br>
62 TR4<br>
75 TR6<br>
81 TR8<br>
<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triumphs@au=
tox.team.net</a> **<br>
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<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumphs=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Don Hiscock &lt;don.hiscock@gmail.=
com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, February 17, 2020 12:30:39 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Jim Henningsen &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on my TR3B=
 (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thirty five years ago) a=
re slightly&nbsp;out of round.&nbsp; The original style inserts would never=
 have worked.&nbsp; For a few years I had the flat
 spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge was tight with no m=
ovement.&nbsp; But I hate those things.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts on my repr=
oduction badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts and plastic washers.&nb=
sp; It accomodates the slightly out-of-round holes quite well.&nbsp; I'm ve=
ry happy with this approach and would recommend
 it for anyone who thinks it might make sense for their car.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Don</div>
<div>Saint Louis</div>
<div>1962 TR3B</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08 AM Ji=
m Henningsen &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>=
&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; bord=
er-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
Ordered a new enameled hood badge as the body shop had tried to bend it to<=
br>
fit the holes and cracked the enamel.&nbsp; The holes on my 62 TR4 hood are=
 not<br>
quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.&nbsp; This one is from<=
br>
England.&nbsp; Any thoughts on fixing this before I experiment.&nbsp; Badge=
s ae too<br>
expensive to try and bend the mounting tips.&nbsp; I am thinking I need to =
shave<br>
one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase length between holes. =
I<br>
know this may allow badge to shift after install, but what options are<br>
there?&nbsp; <br>
Thanks<br>
Jim Henningsen&nbsp; <br>
Ocala FL<br>
61 TR3A<br>
62 TR4<br>
75 TR6<br>
81 TR8<br>
<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triumphs@au=
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--===============8934799926119574961==
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---

From: Don Hiscock <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 12:33:50 -0600

--===============5501848865030913798==

--0000000000009a0f31059ec9cc7f

Adhesives can do a lot -- the TRIUMPH nameplate on the back of my TR3B is
held on with 3M body trim mounting adhesive as an alternative to spire nuts.

The problem probably isn't the weight of the head badge, but the lack of
any surface area for contact.  The badge only touches the painted bodywork
around its narrow perimeter,  I guess one could cobble some blocking system
on the backside, but that would be a far from ideal solution.  The two that
would work are (1) modify the holes, or (2) modify or find a badge with
appropriate post spacing.

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

--0000000000009a0f31059ec9cc7f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Adhesives can do a lot -- the TRIUMPH nameplate on the bac=
k of my TR3B is held on with 3M body trim mounting adhesive as an alternati=
ve to spire nuts.<div><br></div><div>The problem probably isn&#39;t the wei=
ght of the head badge, but the lack of any surface area for contact.=C2=A0 =
The badge only touches the painted bodywork around its narrow perimeter,=C2=
=A0 I guess one could cobble some blocking system on the backside, but that=
 would be a far from ideal solution.=C2=A0 The two that would work are (1) =
modify the holes, or (2) modify or find a badge with appropriate post spaci=
ng.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 12:24 PM Roger Elliott &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-l=
eft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    <p>Is it possible to use some good heavy duty double sided tape?=C2=A0 =
Or
      is the badge too heavy for that?=C2=A0 i know I have heard of it bein=
g
      used in some places.<br>
      Roger <br>
    </p>
    <div>On 2/17/2020 11:30 AM, Don Hiscock
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr">The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on
        my TR3B (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thirty
        five years ago) are slightly=C2=A0out of round.=C2=A0 The original =
style
        inserts would never have worked.=C2=A0 For a few years I had the fl=
at
        spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge was tight
        with no movement.=C2=A0 But I hate those things.
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts
          on my reproduction badge and it&#39;s now mounted with nyloc nuts
          and plastic washers.=C2=A0 It accomodates the slightly out-of-rou=
nd
          holes quite well.=C2=A0 I&#39;m very happy with this approach and=
 would
          recommend it for anyone who thinks it might make sense for
          their car.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Don</div>
        <div>Saint Louis</div>
        <div>1962 TR3B</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08
          AM Jim Henningsen &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Ordered
          a new enameled hood badge as the body shop had tried to bend
          it to<br>
          fit the holes and cracked the enamel.=C2=A0 The holes on my 62 TR=
4
          hood are not<br>
          quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.=C2=A0 This on=
e
          is from<br>
          England.=C2=A0 Any thoughts on fixing this before I experiment.=
=C2=A0
          Badges ae too<br>
          expensive to try and bend the mounting tips.=C2=A0 I am thinking =
I
          need to shave<br>
          one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase length
          between holes. I<br>
          know this may allow badge to shift after install, but what
          options are<br>
          there?=C2=A0 <br>
          Thanks<br>
          Jim Henningsen=C2=A0 <br>
          Ocala FL<br>
          61 TR3A<br>
          62 TR4<br>
          75 TR6<br>
          81 TR8<br>
          <br>
          <br>
          ** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">t=
[email-masked]</a> **<br>
          <br>
          Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
          Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=
=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a=
>=C2=A0
          <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
          <br>
          Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/opti=
ons/triumphs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset></fieldset>
      <pre>** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">=
[email-masked]</a> **

//www.team.net/donate.html</a>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" target=3D"_blan=
k">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>  <a href=3D"http://www.team.n=
et/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a>

hs/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/option=
s/triumphs/[email-masked]</a>
</pre>
    </blockquote>
  </div>

--0000000000009a0f31059ec9cc7f--

--===============5501848865030913798==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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--===============5501848865030913798==--

---

From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 18:44:19 +0000 (UTC)

--===============5242190951490806066==
	boundary="----=_Part_2992987_506716287.1581965059980"

------=_Part_2992987_506716287.1581965059980
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 The badge I bought for the TR3 didn't sit flat either so I put a nylon was=
her one each post before mounting it and now it sits spaced away from the s=
heet metal ever so slightly where it can do no harm to the paint.=C2=A0 I c=
an'[t remember if I needed to modify the holes or not.
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Dressler Jr., Edward Thomas <[email-masked]>
To: Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]>; Don Hiscock <[email-masked]>
Cc: Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Sent: Mon, Feb 17, 2020 12:24 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge

I tried a new one and it didn't sit flat.=C2=A0=C2=A0 found a good old one.=
=C2=A0 No way would the new one fit!=C2=A0

Get Outlook for Android
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Don Hiscock <=
[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 12:30:39 PM
To: Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]>
Cc: Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge=C2=A0The badge mounting holes on the apron=
 currently on my TR3B (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thi=
rty five years ago) are slightly=C2=A0out of round.=C2=A0 The original styl=
e inserts would never have worked.=C2=A0 For a few years I had the flat spr=
ing speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge was tight with no movem=
ent.=C2=A0 But I hate those things.
A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts on my reproduct=
ion badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts and plastic washers.=C2=A0 I=
t accomodates the slightly out-of-round holes quite well.=C2=A0 I'm very ha=
ppy with this approach and would recommend it for anyone who thinks it migh=
t make sense for their car.
DonSaint Louis1962 TR3B
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08 AM Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:

 not
quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.=C2=A0 This one is from
s ae too
shave
there?=C2=A0=20
Thanks
Jim Henningsen=C2=A0=20
Ocala FL
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
81 TR8

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
rchive

[email-masked]

From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Don Hiscock <=
[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 12:30:39 PM
To: Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]>
Cc: Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge=C2=A0The badge mounting holes on the apron=
 currently on my TR3B (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thi=
rty five years ago) are slightly=C2=A0out of round.=C2=A0 The original styl=
e inserts would never have worked.=C2=A0 For a few years I had the flat spr=
ing speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge was tight with no movem=
ent.=C2=A0 But I hate those things.
A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts on my reproduct=
ion badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts and plastic washers.=C2=A0 I=
t accomodates the slightly out-of-round holes quite well.=C2=A0 I'm very ha=
ppy with this approach and would recommend it for anyone who thinks it migh=
t make sense for their car.
DonSaint Louis1962 TR3B
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08 AM Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:

 not
quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.=C2=A0 This one is from
s ae too
shave
there?=C2=A0=20
Thanks
Jim Henningsen=C2=A0=20
Ocala FL
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
81 TR8

------=_Part_2992987_506716287.1581965059980
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<div style="color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size="3">The badge I bought for the TR3 didn't sit flat either so I put a nylon washer one each post before mounting it and now it sits spaced away from the sheet metal ever so slightly where it can do no harm to the paint.&nbsp; I can'[t remember if I needed to modify the holes or not.</font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="clear:both"><font size="4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Dressler Jr., Edward Thomas &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: Jim Henningsen &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; Don Hiscock &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Cc: Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Mon, Feb 17, 2020 12:24 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge<br>
<br>

<div id="yiv9344569254">
<div>

<div>
</div>
</div>

<div>
<div style="direction:ltr;margin:0;padding:0;font-family:sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:black;">
I tried a new one and it didn't sit flat.&nbsp;&nbsp; found a good old one.&nbsp; No way would the new one fit!&nbsp;<br clear="none">
</div>

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<br clear="none">
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<br clear="none">
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<div style="direction:ltr;margin:0;padding:0;font-family:sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:black;">
<span id="yiv9344569254ms-outlook-mobile-signature">
</span>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>

Get <a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" target="_blank" removedlink__8c13f063-b791-4916-aca3-31a7c00f29cb__href="https://aka.ms/ghei36">Outlook for Android</a><br clear="none">
</div>

<hr tabindex="-1" style="display:inline-block;width:98%;">

<div class="yiv9344569254yqt6936367054" id="yiv9344569254yqt90547">
<div dir="ltr" id="yiv9344569254divRplyFwdMsg"><font style="font-size:11pt;" face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Don Hiscock &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br clear="none">
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, February 17, 2020 12:30:39 PM<br clear="none">
<b>To:</b> Jim Henningsen &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br clear="none">
<b>Cc:</b> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br clear="none">
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge</font>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

</div>

<div>

<div dir="ltr">The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on my TR3B (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thirty five years ago) are slightly&nbsp;out of round.&nbsp; The original style inserts would never have worked.&nbsp; For a few years I had the flat
 spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge was tight with no movement.&nbsp; But I hate those things.

<div><br clear="none">
</div>

<div>A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts on my reproduction badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts and plastic washers.&nbsp; It accomodates the slightly out-of-round holes quite well.&nbsp; I'm very happy with this approach and would recommend
 it for anyone who thinks it might make sense for their car.</div>

<div><br clear="none">
</div>

<div>Don</div>

<div>Saint Louis</div>

<div>1962 TR3B</div>

</div>

<br clear="none">

<div class="yiv9344569254x_gmail_quote">

<div class="yiv9344569254x_gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08 AM Jim Henningsen &lt;<a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank" removedlink__8c13f063-b791-4916-aca3-31a7c00f29cb__href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>

<blockquote class="yiv9344569254x_gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
Ordered a new enameled hood badge as the body shop had tried to bend it to<br clear="none">
fit the holes and cracked the enamel.&nbsp; The holes on my 62 TR4 hood are not<br clear="none">
quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.&nbsp; This one is from<br clear="none">
England.&nbsp; Any thoughts on fixing this before I experiment.&nbsp; Badges ae too<br clear="none">
expensive to try and bend the mounting tips.&nbsp; I am thinking I need to shave<br clear="none">
one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase length between holes. I<br clear="none">
know this may allow badge to shift after install, but what options are<br clear="none">
there?&nbsp; <br clear="none">
Thanks<br clear="none">
Jim Henningsen&nbsp; <br clear="none">
Ocala FL<br clear="none">
61 TR3A<br clear="none">
62 TR4<br clear="none">
75 TR6<br clear="none">
81 TR8<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
** <a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank" removedlink__8c13f063-b791-4916-aca3-31a7c00f29cb__href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Archive: <a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" target="_blank" removedlink__8c13f063-b791-4916-aca3-31a7c00f29cb__href="https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Ftriumphs&amp;data=02%7C01%7Cetd%40psu.edu%7C5107e1710e51475fa17308d7b3cf2474%7C7cf48d453ddb4389a9c1c115526eb52e%7C0%7C0%7C637175574560854589&amp;sdata=Xrgg2raPHaVZjj7nFmazOl65bSb8upzG0CnaLKiA%2BPg%3D&amp;reserved=0">
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br clear="none">
</blockquote>
</div>

</div>
</div>

<hr tabindex="-1" style="display:inline-block;width:98%;">

<div dir="ltr" id="yiv9344569254divRplyFwdMsg"><font style="font-size:11pt;" face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Don Hiscock &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br clear="none">
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, February 17, 2020 12:30:39 PM<br clear="none">
<b>To:</b> Jim Henningsen &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br clear="none">
<b>Cc:</b> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br clear="none">
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge</font>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

</div>

<div>

<div dir="ltr">The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on my TR3B (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thirty five years ago) are slightly&nbsp;out of round.&nbsp; The original style inserts would never have worked.&nbsp; For a few years I had the flat
 spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge was tight with no movement.&nbsp; But I hate those things.

<div><br clear="none">
</div>

<div>A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts on my reproduction badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts and plastic washers.&nbsp; It accomodates the slightly out-of-round holes quite well.&nbsp; I'm very happy with this approach and would recommend
 it for anyone who thinks it might make sense for their car.</div>

<div><br clear="none">
</div>

<div>Don</div>

<div>Saint Louis</div>

<div>1962 TR3B</div>

</div>

<br clear="none">

<div class="yiv9344569254x_gmail_quote">

<div class="yiv9344569254x_gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:08 AM Jim Henningsen &lt;<a rel="noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank" removedlink__8c13f063-b791-4916-aca3-31a7c00f29cb__href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>

<blockquote class="yiv9344569254x_gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
Ordered a new enameled hood badge as the body shop had tried to bend it to<br clear="none">
fit the holes and cracked the enamel.&nbsp; The holes on my 62 TR4 hood are not<br clear="none">
quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.&nbsp; This one is from<br clear="none">
England.&nbsp; Any thoughts on fixing this before I experiment.&nbsp; Badges ae too<br clear="none">
expensive to try and bend the mounting tips.&nbsp; I am thinking I need to shave<br clear="none">
one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase length between holes. I<br clear="none">
know this may allow badge to shift after install, but what options are<br clear="none">
there?&nbsp; <br clear="none">
Thanks<br clear="none">
Jim Henningsen&nbsp; <br clear="none">
Ocala FL<br clear="none">
61 TR3A<br clear="none">
62 TR4<br clear="none">
75 TR6<br clear="none">
81 TR8<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
</blockquote></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>

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From: "Keith Stewart" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 15:32:10 -0500

The original securing mechanism was small plastic inserts (like those ground bullet connectors that have a hole through the bottom for the ground wire to protrude and bend over). Once the hole(s) is elongated, these would not work but spire nuts as John suggests or spring clips should hold it secure.

Keith Stewart
[email-masked]

---

From: Don Hiscock <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 14:39:35 -0600

--===============3338975712593249866==

--00000000000045a96c059ecb8e9f

Plastic inserts sounds about right for TR4-era, especially later in its
run.  Here are the spring metal inserts my TR3B had originally.
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w8Vvgjr/0/ea2975fc/X5/i-w8Vvgjr-X5.jpg

On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 2:32 PM Keith Stewart <[email-masked]> wrote:

> The original securing mechanism was small plastic inserts (like those
> ground bullet connectors that have a hole through the bottom for the ground
> wire to protrude and bend over). Once the hole(s) is elongated, these would
> not work but spire nuts as John suggests or spring clips should hold it
> secure.
>
>
> Keith Stewart
> [email-masked]
>
>
>
> I agree with Bill Beecher. Elongate one of the holes with a round needle
> file and then touch in the bare metal with a small dab of of body colour to
> impede rust. The retaining spire clips will hold it tight and snug.
>
>
>

--00000000000045a96c059ecb8e9f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Plastic inserts sounds about right for TR4-era, especially=
 later in its run.=C2=A0 Here are the spring metal inserts my TR3B had orig=
inally.<div><a href=3D"https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w8Vvgjr/0/ea2975=
fc/X5/i-w8Vvgjr-X5.jpg">https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w8Vvgjr/0/ea297=
5fc/X5/i-w8Vvgjr-X5.jpg</a><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D=
"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at=
 2:32 PM Keith Stewart &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">keithst=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" st=
yle=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padd=
ing-left:1ex">The original securing mechanism was small plastic inserts (li=
ke those ground bullet connectors that have a hole through the bottom for t=
he ground wire to protrude and bend over). Once the hole(s) is elongated, t=
hese would not work but spire nuts as John suggests or spring clips should =
hold it secure.<br>
<br>
<br>
Keith Stewart<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">keithstewart@bel=
l.net</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
I agree with Bill Beecher. Elongate one of the holes with a round needle fi=
le and then touch in the bare metal with a small dab of of body colour to i=
mpede rust. The retaining spire clips will hold it tight and snug.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triumphs@au=
tox.team.net</a> **<br>
<br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=C2=A0 <a h=
ref=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div>

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 12:37:12 -0800

> The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on my TR3B 
> (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thirty five 
> years ago) are slightly out of round.  The original style 
> inserts would never have worked.  For a few years I had the 
> flat spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge 
> was tight with no movement.  But I hate those things.

I'm confused, Don.  Weren't the original fasteners on a 3B "flat spring
speed nuts"? P/N FP1005?
TR4 went to FP1012/9 according to my book, but that's still what I would
call a "flat spring" nut.  Same thing is listed for 4A.
https://i.imgur.com/tbm4dTT.jpg

> A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts 
> and plastic washers.

FWIW, I found some "speed nuts" that have hex flats, so you can turn them
down the posts without having to cut threads separately.  They have a bit of
spring to them, so can hold the badge tightly.  The studs on my badge seemed
pretty soft, and the plating was rough, so I wasn't confident it would hold
machine threads.  The speed nuts have worked quite well, and are removable.
(MMC calls them "push nuts")

https://www.mcmaster.com/90533a115

> I am thinking I need to shave
> one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase 
> length between holes. I know this may allow badge to shift after install,
but 

My suggestion would be to use a small round file, and do multiple test fits,
to remove the absolute minimum metal required from the holes.  Put some
touch-up paint in the holes, then use the nuts I linked to.

I've still got 98 of them in the box and not likely to ever use more than a
few.  If anyone wants a couple, contact me off-list.

-- Randall

---

From: "Keith Stewart" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 15:48:32 -0500

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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In addition to the plastic inserts, I have used:

Spring clips

And speed nuts

=20

The speed nuts I used were brass with a rubber coating on the surface =
that would contact the paint. That allowed them to compress and snug up =
firmly without any paint damage.

=20

=20

Keith Stewart

[email-masked]

=20

=20

=20

From: Don Hiscock <[email-masked]>=20
Sent: February 17, 2020 3:40 PM
To: Keith Stewart <[email-masked]>
Cc: John Macartney <[email-masked]>; wbeech =
<[email-masked]>; Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge

=20

Plastic inserts sounds about right for TR4-era, especially later in its =
run.  Here are the spring metal inserts my TR3B had originally.

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w8Vvgjr/0/ea2975fc/X5/i-w8Vvgjr-X5.jp=
g

=20

=20

On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 2:32 PM Keith Stewart <[email-masked] =

The original securing mechanism was small plastic inserts (like those =
ground bullet connectors that have a hole through the bottom for the =
ground wire to protrude and bend over). Once the hole(s) is elongated, =
these would not work but spire nuts as John suggests or spring clips =
should hold it secure.

Keith Stewart

-----Original Message-----
I agree with Bill Beecher. Elongate one of the holes with a round needle =
file and then touch in the bare metal with a small dab of of body colour =
to impede rust. The retaining spire clips will hold it tight and snug.

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  =

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta =
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-CA link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>In addition to the plastic inserts, =
I have used:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Spring =
clips<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><img width=3D200 height=3D200 =
style=3D'width:2.0833in;height:2.0833in' id=3D"Picture_x0020_1" =
src=3D"cid:[email-masked]" alt=3D"Image result for speed =
nuts"></span><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>And speed =
nuts<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><img width=3D250 height=3D220 =
style=3D'width:2.6in;height:2.2916in' id=3D"Picture_x0020_2" =
src=3D"cid:[email-masked]" alt=3D"Image result for speed =
nuts"></span><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>The speed =
nuts I used were brass with a rubber coating on the surface that would =
contact the paint. That allowed them to compress and snug up firmly =
without any paint damage.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Keith =
Stewart<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>[email-masked]<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span =
lang=3DEN-US> Don Hiscock &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br><b>Sent:</b> =
February 17, 2020 3:40 PM<br><b>To:</b> Keith Stewart =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> John Macartney =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;; wbeech &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; =
Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR4 =
Hood Badge<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Plastic =
inserts sounds about right for TR4-era, especially later in its =
run.&nbsp; Here are the spring metal inserts my TR3B had =
originally.<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><a =
href=3D"https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w8Vvgjr/0/ea2975fc/X5/i-w8Vvg=
jr-X5.jpg">https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w8Vvgjr/0/ea2975fc/X5/i-w8=
Vvgjr-X5.jpg</a><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 2:32 PM Keith Stewart &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal>The =
original securing mechanism was small plastic inserts (like those ground =
bullet connectors that have a hole through the bottom for the ground =
wire to protrude and bend over). Once the hole(s) is elongated, these =
would not work but spire nuts as John suggests or spring clips should =
hold it secure.<br><br><br>Keith Stewart<br><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br><br><br><br>-----Original =
Message-----<br>I agree with Bill Beecher. Elongate one of the holes =
with a round needle file and then touch in the bare metal with a small =
dab of of body colour to impede rust. The retaining spire clips will =
hold it tight and snug.<br><br><br><br>** <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a> **<br><br>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>&nbsp; <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Mana=
ge: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.=
com" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hisc=
[email-masked]</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></div></body></html>
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From: Don Hiscock <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 15:03:26 -0600

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Well, I didn't have my car for the first nineteen years of its life, and it
had apron bodywork when I got it.  Who knows for sure what was original to
its build.  TR3Bs are their own animal sometimes in esoteric ways the parts
manual doesn't always catch.

For example, the main gauges on every TR3B I've checked have "two piece"
clamps like a TR4, not the single U-clamp like a TR3A.  What's the SPM4E
say it should have?
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-5fbNcWz/0/efc7f301/X5/i-5fbNcWz-X5.jpg

Where TR3B rules are concerned, there are no rules!

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Well, I didn&#39;t have my car for the first nineteen year=
s of its life, and it had apron bodywork when I got it.=C2=A0 Who knows for=
 sure what was original to its build.=C2=A0 TR3Bs are their own animal some=
times in esoteric ways the parts manual doesn&#39;t always catch.=C2=A0=C2=
=A0<div><br></div><div>For example, the main gauges on every TR3B I&#39;ve =
checked have &quot;two piece&quot; clamps like a TR4, not the single U-clam=
p like a TR3A.=C2=A0 What&#39;s the SPM4E say it should have?</div><div><a =
href=3D"https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-5fbNcWz/0/efc7f301/X5/i-5fbNcWz=
-X5.jpg">https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-5fbNcWz/0/efc7f301/X5/i-5fbNcW=
z-X5.jpg</a><br></div><div><br></div><div>Where TR3B rules are concerned, t=
here are no rules!</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"lt=
r" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 2:44 PM Randall &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div=
><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border=
-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">&gt; The badge mounting =
holes on the apron currently on my TR3B <br>
&gt; (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thirty five <br>
&gt; years ago) are slightly out of round.=C2=A0 The original style <br>
&gt; inserts would never have worked.=C2=A0 For a few years I had the <br>
&gt; flat spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge <br>
&gt; was tight with no movement.=C2=A0 But I hate those things.<br>
<br>
I&#39;m confused, Don.=C2=A0 Weren&#39;t the original fasteners on a 3B &qu=
ot;flat spring<br>
speed nuts&quot;? P/N FP1005?<br>
TR4 went to FP1012/9 according to my book, but that&#39;s still what I woul=
d<br>
call a &quot;flat spring&quot; nut.=C2=A0 Same thing is listed for 4A.<br>
<a href=3D"https://i.imgur.com/tbm4dTT.jpg" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_b=
lank">https://i.imgur.com/tbm4dTT.jpg</a><br>
<br>
&gt; A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts <br>
&gt; on my reproduction badge and it&#39;s now mounted with nyloc nuts <br>
&gt; and plastic washers.<br>
<br>
FWIW, I found some &quot;speed nuts&quot; that have hex flats, so you can t=
urn them<br>
down the posts without having to cut threads separately.=C2=A0 They have a =
bit of<br>
spring to them, so can hold the badge tightly.=C2=A0 The studs on my badge =
seemed<br>
pretty soft, and the plating was rough, so I wasn&#39;t confident it would =
hold<br>
machine threads.=C2=A0 The speed nuts have worked quite well, and are remov=
able.<br>
(MMC calls them &quot;push nuts&quot;)<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"https://www.mcmaster.com/90533a115" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">https://www.mcmaster.com/90533a115</a><br>
<br>
&gt; I am thinking I need to shave<br>
&gt; one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase <br>
&gt; length between holes. I know this may allow badge to shift after insta=
ll,<br>
but <br>
<br>
My suggestion would be to use a small round file, and do multiple test fits=
,<br>
to remove the absolute minimum metal required from the holes.=C2=A0 Put som=
e<br>
touch-up paint in the holes, then use the nuts I linked to.<br>
<br>
I&#39;ve still got 98 of them in the box and not likely to ever use more th=
an a<br>
few.=C2=A0 If anyone wants a couple, contact me off-list.<br>
<br>
-- Randall <br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triumphs@au=
tox.team.net</a> **<br>
<br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=C2=A0 <a h=
ref=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div>

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 13:36:35 -0800

Well, shoot.  Here I thought you had some pearl of wisdom I could record :)

Speedo numbers are something else I've never run to ground entirely.  For
sure, there were a lot of them fitted to the TR3 that aren't listed in the
SPC.  The TR4 SPC has 16 of them, and the 4A document has 4 more "for
competition only" with no indication of what that means.  It's not the 4.11
axle, since it was included in the 8 others listed.

But no indication of mounting clamp style.  It was considered part of the
gauge.

-- Randall

---

From: "Jim Henningsen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 17:41:24 -0500

Thanks, Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: John Macartney <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 12:29 PM
To: wbeech <[email-masked]>
Cc: Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]>; Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge

Jonmac

> IF you elongate the hole a little to fit, it will be hidden.  It will 
> still be a snug fit as the posts will occupy the maximum length.  If 
> still unsure you could repack the void with some clear JB Weld or other filler.
> Bill B
> TS30800L
> 
> From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of 
> Jim Henningsen
> Ordered a new enameled hood badge as the body shop had tried to bend 
> it to fit the holes and cracked the enamel.  The holes on my 62 TR4 
> hood are not quite matching up with the aftermarket hood badges.  This 
> one is from England.  Any thoughts on fixing this before I experiment.  
> Badges ae too expensive to try and bend the mounting tips.  I am 
> thinking I need to shave one of the holes on a top or bottom side to 
> increase length between holes. I know this may allow badge to shift 
> after install, but what options are there?
> Thanks
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 61 TR3A
> 62 TR4
> 75 TR6
> 81 TR8
> 
> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
> rg.uk

---

From: "Jim Henningsen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2020 17:43:18 -0500

Bill and all those who responded.  Thank you.  I am going to first try to
elongate hole. Might put a ribber washer around post to top of hood as extra
protection to paint.  I have the round spires and the rectangular speed nuts
to secure.  Wish me luck.  I really want a new installed to match the
quality of the rest of the car.  
Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 12:16 PM
To: 'Jim Henningsen' <[email-masked]>; 'Triumphs'
<[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4 Hood Badge