Subject: Re: [TR] Whitworth Wrenches on a TR3?

From: Frank Fisher <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2019 23:32:59 +0000 (UTC)

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 Randall will give you a full accountas i recall the adjusting bolt on the =
steering box was whitworththe plugs on top of the trans are metricsome of t=
he carbs and control head=C2=A0 may be BAim not sure i would ever have boug=
ht a set of whitworth except that i brought 2 full sets of sockets and wren=
ches with me from the old country when i left. they have a lot of dust on t=
hem right now and not a lot of oil.

you can take the steering wheel off in a similar manner to the TR6. you hav=
e to pull the horn hub assembly and pull the wire through the stator tube.o=
r...you could kill a socket by cutting a small groove in it so the wire can=
 pass through and not pull the wire all the way out.
frank

    On Monday, August 12, 2019, 03:52:56 PM PDT, Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gm=
ail.com> wrote: =20
=20
 First, being relatively new to the TR3 line, I am noticing some of the bol=
ts
don't match up to my SAE wrenches.=C2=A0 I have had to use metric on occasi=
on.
Haven't had this issue on the 4, 6 or 8.=C2=A0 Are these Whitworth sized bo=
lts
and nuts which would mean I should invest in a set of those wrenches?=C2=A0=
 I
always like a new tool but want to check first.

Secondly, what steps do I need to do to get the steering wheel lined up to
be straight.=C2=A0 The car tracks nicely down the road in a straight line b=
ut the
steering wheel is at the 11 and 5pm clock positions left and right hands
respectively.=C2=A0 The shop manual says take off the front apron etc.=C2=
=A0 Ouch.
It's a 60 TR3A, is there an easier way to disconnect wheel like a TR6 to
align correctly.=C2=A0=20

Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

60 TR3A=20
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
82 Jeep CJ8
02 Triumph Trophy 1200
Yes I have a sickness.

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archiv=
e

[email-masked]
 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp89b14247yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px=
;"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Randall will give you a full=
 account</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">as i recall the adjust=
ing bolt on the steering box was whitworth</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdi=
r=3D"false">the plugs on top of the trans are metric</div><div dir=3D"ltr" =
data-setdir=3D"false">some of the carbs and control head&nbsp; may be BA</d=
iv><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">im not sure i would ever have bou=
ght a set of whitworth except that i brought 2 full sets of sockets and wre=
nches with me from the old country when i left. they have a lot of dust on =
them right now and not a lot of oil.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"f=
alse"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">you can take the steering wheel off in a sim=
ilar manner to the TR6. you have to pull the horn hub assembly and pull the=
 wire through the stator tube.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">=
or...you could kill a socket by cutting a small groove in it so the wire ca=
n pass through and not pull the wire all the way out.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
 data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">fra=
nk</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp303931ffyahoo_quoted_5929013684" class=3D"ydp30=
3931ffyahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Monday, August 12, 2019, 03:52:56 PM PDT, Jim Hennin=
gsen &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div dir=3D"ltr">First, being relatively new to the TR=
3 line, I am noticing some of the bolts<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">don't mat=
ch up to my SAE wrenches.&nbsp; I have had to use metric on occasion.<br></=
div><div dir=3D"ltr">Haven't had this issue on the 4, 6 or 8.&nbsp; Are the=
se Whitworth sized bolts<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">and nuts which would mea=
n I should invest in a set of those wrenches?&nbsp; I<br></div><div dir=3D"=
ltr">always like a new tool but want to check first.<br></div><div dir=3D"l=
tr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Secondly, what steps do I need to do to get =
the steering wheel lined up to<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">be straight.&nbsp;=
 The car tracks nicely down the road in a straight line but the<br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr">steering wheel is at the 11 and 5pm clock positions left and=
 right hands<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">respectively.&nbsp; The shop manual =
says take off the front apron etc.&nbsp; Ouch.<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">It=
's a 60 TR3A, is there an easier way to disconnect wheel like a TR6 to<br><=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr">align correctly.&nbsp; <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br=
></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks,<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Jim Henningsen<br=
></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Ocala, FL<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div =
dir=3D"ltr">60 TR3A <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">61 TR3A<br></div><div dir=3D=
"ltr">62 TR4<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">75 TR6<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">82 =
Jeep CJ8<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">02 Triumph Trophy 1200<br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">Yes I have a sickness.<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div di=
r=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
am.net" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a> **<b=
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://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://www.=
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://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs " rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">htt=
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Frank Fisher <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2019 23:32:59 +0000 (UTC)

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Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

60 TR3A=20
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
82 Jeep CJ8
02 Triumph Trophy 1200
Yes I have a sickness.

[email-masked]
 =20

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From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2019 19:21:35 -0500

Jim,
I would invest in a small set of wrenches, King Dick is the Snap of the UK if you want to go first class, but not necessary.   Moss has some sets or find them sometimes on eBay.  But, for the most part, your SAE and Metric wrenches will do the job.  I’m sure Randall can expound on the specific areas that are BSW, I’m thinking transmission and rear end. 
Bill

Sent from my IBM 8088

On Aug 12, 2019, at 5:52 PM, Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:

First, being relatively new to the TR3 line, I am noticing some of the bolts
don't match up to my SAE wrenches.  I have had to use metric on occasion.
Haven't had this issue on the 4, 6 or 8.  Are these Whitworth sized bolts
and nuts which would mean I should invest in a set of those wrenches?  I
always like a new tool but want to check first.

Secondly, what steps do I need to do to get the steering wheel lined up to
be straight.  The car tracks nicely down the road in a straight line but the
steering wheel is at the 11 and 5pm clock positions left and right hands
respectively.  The shop manual says take off the front apron etc.  Ouch.
It's a 60 TR3A, is there an easier way to disconnect wheel like a TR6 to
align correctly.  

Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

60 TR3A 
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
82 Jeep CJ8
02 Triumph Trophy 1200
Yes I have a sickness.

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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From: Tom Walling <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2019 20:30:22 -0400 (EDT)

You're in luck Jim! Leave the front apron right where it is. Set the car so the front wheels track straight and remove and disconnect the horn-push / turn signal head. Right before your very eyes will be a big nut (guaranteed you won't have a socket that fits, but that's a good reason to add one to your tool box). Unscrew the nut and carefully pull the wheel toward you until it comes off of the steering column shaft. Fiddle with the wheel until it looks right to you and (you guessed it), the rest is the reverse of what you just did. This is one of the easier jobs on a TR3.

> On August 12, 2019 at 6:52 PM Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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From: "Kinderlehrer" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2019 19:56:59 -0700

I literally just did this today to replace the felt in the steering column.
Just to add a few hints, to remove the control head, remove the 3 grub
screws in the steering wheel, they are a little hard to see if you are not
looking for them, and pull the head out from the stator tube.  If you have a
little extra wire coming out of the steering box, you don't have to remove
the horn-push/turn signal head completely - it may be helpful to have
someone feed the wires up from the bottom of the steering box while you pull
on the head. If you don't remove the head completely along with all the
wires, which just makes it that much more difficult to reinstall, you can't
use a socket on that nut. I used a large adjustable crescent wrench
vertically with a screw driver through the hole at the end of the handle,
but an open end wrench of the right size if you have one, which i don't, may
work better.

BTW, I don't have any Whitworth wrenches and have managed many projects on
my TR3 and my 49 TR 2000 without them. 
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Tom
Walling
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2019 5:30 PM
To: Jim Henningsen; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Whitworth Wrenches on a TR3?

You're in luck Jim! Leave the front apron right where it is. Set the car so
the front wheels track straight and remove and disconnect the horn-push /
turn signal head. Right before your very eyes will be a big nut (guaranteed
you won't have a socket that fits, but that's a good reason to add one to
your tool box). Unscrew the nut and carefully pull the wheel toward you
until it comes off of the steering column shaft. Fiddle with the wheel until
it looks right to you and (you guessed it), the rest is the reverse of what
you just did. This is one of the easier jobs on a TR3.

> First, being relatively new to the TR3 line, I am noticing some of the 
> bolts don't match up to my SAE wrenches.  I have had to use metric on
occasion.
> Haven't had this issue on the 4, 6 or 8.  Are these Whitworth sized 
> bolts and nuts which would mean I should invest in a set of those 
> wrenches?  I always like a new tool but want to check first.
> 
> Secondly, what steps do I need to do to get the steering wheel lined 
> up to be straight.  The car tracks nicely down the road in a straight 
> line but the steering wheel is at the 11 and 5pm clock positions left 
> and right hands respectively.  The shop manual says take off the front
apron etc.  Ouch.
> It's a 60 TR3A, is there an easier way to disconnect wheel like a TR6 
> to align correctly.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala, FL
> 
> 60 TR3A
> 61 TR3A
> 62 TR4
> 75 TR6
> 82 Jeep CJ8
> 02 Triumph Trophy 1200
> Yes I have a sickness.
> 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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From: DAVE HOGYE <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2019 22:30:16 -0700 (PDT)

If I recall correctly, my steering shafts had center punch marks near the coupler to index where the shafts were originally located and the punch marks line up with the splits in the coupler. This may have be done some time later on.  
There was also a blue painted dot on the lower shaft where it seemed that from the factory, once the steering box was built and before oil was added to the box, a paint mark was placed on the shaft where the oil fill hole is located to indicate straight forward.  
I'm pretty sure that the steering wheel can be realigned by removing one of the bolts on the coupler and pulling on the wheel will disconnect the shaft and coupler, then the shaft can be rotated and reset to another spline in the shaft to straighten the wheel without disconnecting anything else. The crush sleeve will have to be loosened on the end of the horn and turn signal wire tube at the bottom of the steering box to allow the tube and wires to be pulled with the wheel and upper shaft.  You should only have to pull it about an inch to clear the coupler splines and rotate it to another location. 
Spreading the coupler split with a screw driver may help loosen the grip between the shaft and coupler. 
Of course, if you have an early TR with the one piece steering column, then you'd have to pull the steering wheel off for realignment. 
Dave H.

> On August 12, 2019 at 3:52 PM Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: "Jim Henningsen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 05:54:08 -0400

Thanks Bob and all the others for the feedback.  Will tackle the job this
weekend.  I greatly appreciate the collective wisdom and options too address
the next challenge on the 3.  

Jim Henningsen

-----Original Message-----
From: Kinderlehrer <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2019 10:57 PM
To: 'Tom Walling' <[email-masked]>; 'Jim Henningsen'
<[email-masked]>; 'Triumphs' <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [TR] Whitworth Wrenches on a TR3?

-----Original Message-----

occasion.
apron etc.  Ouch.

---

From: Randall <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 05:20:52 -0500

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A couple of adjustable (crescent) wrenches, one medium and one small, will =
pretty much cover the Whitworth wrench requirements.  A set of wrenches and=
 sockets isn=E2=80=99t really required.  Still, I do open my =E2=80=9CBriti=
sh=E2=80=9D drawer fairly often, so they aren=E2=80=99t useless either.

The hex nuts on all of the electrical equipment (starter, solenoid, generat=
or, control box, heater, etc) are British (some BSF, mostly BA).  Ditto for=
 the carbs.  A few other places, like the =E2=80=9CLift the Dot=E2=80=9D st=
uds with machine threads, are British threads but even  British wrenches do=
n=E2=80=99t fit the flats.

Fill plugs on the shock absorbers.  Frank already mentioned the adjustment =
lock nut on top of the steering box.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Jim Henningsen
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2019 5:52 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] Whitworth Wrenches on a TR3?

First, being relatively new to the TR3 line, I am noticing some of the bolt=
s

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ss=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>A couple of adjustable (crescent) wr=
enches, one medium and one small, will pretty much cover the Whitworth wren=
ch requirements.=C2=A0 A set of wrenches and sockets isn=E2=80=99t really r=
equired.=C2=A0 Still, I do open my =E2=80=9CBritish=E2=80=9D drawer fairly =
often, so they aren=E2=80=99t useless either.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>=
&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>The hex nuts on all of the electrical =
equipment (starter, solenoid, generator, control box, heater, etc) are Brit=
ish (some BSF, mostly BA).=C2=A0 Ditto for the carbs.=C2=A0 A few other pla=
ces, like the =E2=80=9CLift the Dot=E2=80=9D studs with machine threads, ar=
e British threads but even =C2=A0British wrenches don=E2=80=99t fit the fla=
ts.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Fill =
plugs on the shock absorbers.=C2=A0 Frank already mentioned the adjustment =
lock nut on top of the steering box.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o=
:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sent from <a href=3D"https://go.microsoft.com/f=
wlink/?LinkId=3D550986">Mail</a> for Windows 10</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div style=3D'mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;bor=
der-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal=
 style=3D'border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:trguy75@g=
mail.com">Jim Henningsen</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Monday, August 12, 2019 5:52 P=
M<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">'Triumphs'</a><b=
r><b>Subject: </b>[TR] Whitworth Wrenches on a TR3?</p></div><p class=3DMso=
Normal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>First, being relatively ne=
w to the TR3 line, I am noticing some of the bolts</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=
don't match up to my SAE wrenches.=C2=A0 I have had to use metric on occasi=
on.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Haven't had this issue on the 4, 6 or 8.=C2=A0 =
Are these Whitworth sized bolts</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>and nuts which woul=
d mean I should invest in a set of those wrenches?=C2=A0 I</p><p class=3DMs=
oNormal>always like a new tool but want to check first.</p><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>=

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From: Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 06:43:46 -0400

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Thank you. Jim

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 13, 2019, at 6:20 AM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> A couple of adjustable (crescent) wrenches, one medium and one small, will=
 pretty much cover the Whitworth wrench requirements.  A set of wrenches and=
 sockets isn=E2=80=99t really required.  Still, I do open my =E2=80=9CBritis=
h=E2=80=9D drawer fairly often, so they aren=E2=80=99t useless either.
> =20
> The hex nuts on all of the electrical equipment (starter, solenoid, genera=
tor, control box, heater, etc) are British (some BSF, mostly BA).  Ditto for=
 the carbs.  A few other places, like the =E2=80=9CLift the Dot=E2=80=9D stu=
ds with machine threads, are British threads but even  British wrenches don=E2=
=80=99t fit the flats.
> =20
> Fill plugs on the shock absorbers.  Frank already mentioned the adjustment=
ts
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archi=
ve
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75=
@gmail.com

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Thank you. Jim<br><br><div id=3D"AppleMailS=
ignature" dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Aug 13,=
 2019, at 6:20 AM, Randall &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">tr3dri=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=
=3D"ltr"><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Du=
tf-8"><meta name=3D"Generator" content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 (filtered medium=
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--></style><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">A couple of ad=
justable (crescent) wrenches, one medium and one small, will pretty much cov=
er the Whitworth wrench requirements.&nbsp; A set of wrenches and sockets is=
n=E2=80=99t really required.&nbsp; Still, I do open my =E2=80=9CBritish=E2=80=
=9D drawer fairly often, so they aren=E2=80=99t useless either.</p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">The hex nuts on all o=
f the electrical equipment (starter, solenoid, generator, control box, heate=
r, etc) are British (some BSF, mostly BA).&nbsp; Ditto for the carbs.&nbsp; A=
 few other places, like the =E2=80=9CLift the Dot=E2=80=9D studs with machin=
e threads, are British threads but even &nbsp;British wrenches don=E2=80=99t=
 fit the flats.</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3D"M=
soNormal">Fill plugs on the shock absorbers.&nbsp; Frank already mentioned t=
he adjustment lock nut on top of the steering box.</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"=
><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Sent from <a href=3D"https://go=
.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986">Mail</a> for Windows 10</p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div style=3D"mso-element:para-border-div;b=
order:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in"><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"border:none;padding:0in"><b>From: </b><a href=3D"ma=
ilto:[email-masked]">Jim Henningsen</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Monday, August 12=
, 2019 5:52 PM<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">'Tri=
umphs'</a><br><b>Subject: </b>[TR] Whitworth Wrenches on a TR3?</p></div><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">First, being r=
elatively new to the TR3 line, I am noticing some of the bolts</p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal">don't match up to my SAE wrenches.&nbsp; I have had to use metri=
c on occasion.</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Haven't had this issue on the 4, 6 o=
r 8.&nbsp; Are these Whitworth sized bolts</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">and nut=
s which would mean I should invest in a set of those wrenches?&nbsp; I</p><p=
 class=3D"MsoNormal">always like a new tool but want to check first.</p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></div></blockquote><blockquote=
 type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
am.net">[email-masked]</a> **</span><br><span></span><br><span>Dona=
te: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.h=
tml</a></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/tr=
iumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> &nbsp;<a href=3D"http://w=
ww.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span></span>=
<br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/optio=
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