Subject: [TR] TR3A Nut behind the wheel

From: "Art McEwen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2019 09:47:59 -0400

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In this case not the driver but literally the nut that holds the steering wheel on: Is there a lock washer mechanism that I (and the parts diagrams) are missing or is it just a given that every few months I have to loosen the trafficator housing and tap that nut tighter with a flat screwdriver and hammer?

Cheers,

Art
'60 TR3.

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In this case not the driver but literally the nut that holds the steerin=
g wheel on=3A=A0 =A0Is there a lock washer mechanism that I (and the par=
ts diagrams) are missing or is it just a given that every few months I h=
ave to loosen the trafficator housing and tap that nut tighter with a fl=
at screwdriver and hammer=3F=3Cdiv=3E=3Cbr /=3E=3C/div=3E=3Cdiv=3ECheers=
=2C=3Cbr /=3E=3Cdiv=3E=3Cbr /=3E=3C/div=3E=3Cdiv=3EArt=3C/div=3E=3Cdiv=3E=
=2760 TR3=2E=3C/div=3E=3C/div=3E

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 09:05:30 -0500

Never had that problem with any TR3s past or present.  If you have enough thread I don’t see why a lock washer, split or star, would not work for you.   Or, if you can find a Stover nut of the correct threads.  

Bill B
TS30800L (No. 6)

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 1, 2019, at 8:47 AM, Art McEwen <[email-masked]> wrote:

Cheers,

Art
'60 TR3.

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 07:56:06 -0700

I believe you're supposed to peen the nut lightly, to help lock it to the
threads.  This is mentioned in the TR4 manual.
Or a couple drops of purple Loctite should do nicely.

But I've never done either; perhaps because I tighten mine with a socket and
big ratchet.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

>   Is there a lock washer mechanism 
> that I (and the parts diagrams) are missing or is it just a 
> given that every few months I have to loosen the trafficator 
> housing and tap that nut tighter with a flat screwdriver and hammer?

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From: "Art McEwen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 01 May 2019 11:04:21 -0400

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Yeah loctite would work just as well as a lock washer. When I bite the bullet and decide I want to re-thread the wires down the steering tube (2nd worst job on the car) I'll add that. What torque do you use? 

> > housing and tap that nut tighter with a flat screwdriver and hammer?

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Yeah loctite would work just as well as a lock washer=2E=A0 =A0When I bi=
te the bullet and decide I want to re-thread the wires down the steering=
 tube (2nd worst job on the car) I=27ll add that=2E=A0 =A0What torque do=
 you use=3F=A0 =A0=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3E=3Cspan=3EOn 05/01/19=2C =3Cb clas=
s=3D=22name=22=3ERandall =3C/b=3E =26lt=3BTR3driver=40ca=2Err=2Ecom=26gt=
=3B wrote=3A=3C/span=3E=3Cblockquote cite=3D=22mid=3A948E3BFBD9964624B19=
5664CB595CE1D=40RYPC=22 class=3D=22iwcQuote=22 style=3D=22border-left=3A=
 1px solid =2300F=3B padding-left=3A 13px=3B margin-left=3A 0=3B=22 type=
=3D=22cite=22=3E=3Cdiv class=3D=22mimepart text plain=22=3EI believe you=
=27re supposed to peen the nut lightly=2C to help lock it to the=3Cbr /=3E=
threads=2E=A0 This is mentioned in the TR4 manual=2E=3Cbr /=3EOr a coupl=
e drops of purple Loctite should do nicely=2E=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3EBut I=27=
ve never done either=3B perhaps because I tighten mine with a socket and=
=3Cbr /=3Ebig ratchet=2E=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3E-- Randall =3Cbr /=3E56 TR3 =
TS13571L once and future daily driver=3Cbr /=3E71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting=
 engine rebuild=3Cbr /=3E71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild =3Cbr /=3E=
=3Cbr /=3E=26gt=3B=A0=A0 Is there a lock washer mechanism =3Cbr /=3E=26g=
t=3B that I (and the parts diagrams) are missing or is it just a =3Cbr /=
=3E=26gt=3B given that every few months I have to loosen the trafficator=
 =3Cbr /=3E=26gt=3B housing and tap that nut tighter with a flat screwdr=
iver and hammer=3F=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3E=3C/div=3E=3C/blockquote=3E

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 10:41:43 -0700

> Yeah loctite would work just as well as a lock washer.   When 
> I bite the bullet and decide I want to re-thread the wires 
> down the steering tube (2nd worst job on the car) I'll add 
> that.   What torque do you use?   

About all I can get, just holding the wheel with my other hand.  Never tried
to measure it.

FWIW, I usually remove the tube with the wires still inside, unless there is
some reason I need them out of the tube.  Just pull the control head back
until the ends of the wires are at the end of the tube (leaving just enough
sticking out to grab later). Then remove the nut on the front of the
steering box, and the compression sleeve (aka olive) under it.  Wait for the
oil to drain (if any) then pull the control head, wires and tube out as an
assembly.

If I do have to change the wires, I generally pull them through the tube
first, then put the tube back in the column.  I fasten a length of steel
"handy" wire (aka baling wire) to the end of the electrical wires, poke it
through the tube, then clamp the far end in the bench vise.  Then pull the
tube with one hand, while guiding/stuffing the harness into it with the
other hand.

Another alternative might be the penetrating version (aka green) of Loctite.
It is applied with the nut already tightened, and wicks it's way into the
threads.
www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_GREEN_tds.pdf

- Randall

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From: William Pugh <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 11:34:44 -0700

There is a wrench for that … worth the price.

> On May 1, 2019, at 6:47 AM, Art McEwen <[email-masked]> wrote:
>

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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 15:30:02 -0400

One and five-sixteenths if I remember correctly.  

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of William Pugh
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 2:35 PM
To: Art McEwen
Cc: TR3/6
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Nut behind the wheel

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