Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin

From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 21:36:44 -0400 (EDT)

Alas, I have been a good boy...relatively speaking, of course.  Yet nonetheless the Prince of Darkness, St. Lucas, has descended to wreak havoc.

TR3 engine starts and runs, then flutters and, now, dies.  I've been through the fuel system completely, short of a magnet in the fuel tank, which I might try.  Completely disassembled the carbs again today.  Jets centered, float bowls have no gas in them, float valves perfectly adjusted, and the puff test shows they stop flow as they should.  Mixture and idle is right.  Not to mention I tried a complete swap out of these carbs (rebuilt by Quantum Mechanics some years back).  

I've tracked wiring through the system.  I thought a partial open (broken wires) at the lighting switch where it feeds the ignition switch would fix it.  Didn't.  Replaced the 60 year old ignition switch. Didn't fix it.  Double checked the fuse holder for solid and clean connections.  Not the issue.  When it does run, the voltmeter (not ammeter) shows just the 12 volts from the battery, and not a charge.  White wire from the fuse to the coil tests no short to ground, and bypassing it with another connecting wire doesn't cure the problem either.  

So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I replaced that too), the generator control is wired differently.  I've checked connections there and they're good.  But is there any break-down inside that could cause a power disruption to the ignition system.  

Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram whether the generator or the starter could be stealing power from the ignition system.

I'll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts?

Best,
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire
** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

---

From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 21:41:18 -0400 (EDT)

Oh, and replaced the fuel pump and all fuel filters.  

> On May 29, 2019 at 9:36 PM TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: Patrick Baize <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 20:54:31 -0500

I have that gremlin also, Stag will run, and just quit. tried to find 
it, can't.  I had the original ignition, new coils, points. Pertronix 
and optical type(don't remember brand)  But a day later, will start 
right up.   I just wonder, does a Mk1 Stag and TR3 use the same style 
RPM gauge. The type where the coil wire goes THRU the RPM gauge?  
Because if you undo the plug to the gauge, the car wont start. I wonder 
if the gauge is failing?

Thnx

Patrick

71 Stag

5/29/2019 8:36 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:

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From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 22:02:55 -0400 (EDT)

Hi, Patrick.  On a '3, the tachometer is run by a cable coming off the distributor, so not electrical.

> On May 29, 2019 at 9:54 PM Patrick Baize <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
>

---

From: "Kinderlehrer" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 19:41:40 -0700

Hi Terry,
Try a very easy test, open the fuel filler cap and try again. If that
doesn't tell you something, disconnect the fuel line at the carbs and see if
you get a good strong flow from the fuel pump. I once had a tank that was
some clogged at the outlet only a small amount of gas could get by, not
enough to keep the car running.
Just some thoughts,
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of TERRY
SMITH
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2019 6:41 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] Electrical Gremlin

> Alas, I have been a good boy...relatively speaking, of course.  Yet
nonetheless the Prince of Darkness, St. Lucas, has descended to wreak havoc.
> 
> TR3 engine starts and runs, then flutters and, now, dies.  I've been
through the fuel system completely, short of a magnet in the fuel tank,
which I might try.  Completely disassembled the carbs again today.  Jets
centered, float bowls have no gas in them, float valves perfectly adjusted,
and the puff test shows they stop flow as they should.  Mixture and idle is
right.  Not to mention I tried a complete swap out of these carbs (rebuilt
by Quantum Mechanics some years back).  
> 
> I've tracked wiring through the system.  I thought a partial open (broken
wires) at the lighting switch where it feeds the ignition switch would fix
it.  Didn't.  Replaced the 60 year old ignition switch. Didn't fix it.
Double checked the fuse holder for solid and clean connections.  Not the
issue.  When it does run, the voltmeter (not ammeter) shows just the 12
volts from the battery, and not a charge.  White wire from the fuse to the
coil tests no short to ground, and bypassing it with another connecting wire
doesn't cure the problem either.  
> 
> So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I replaced
that too), the generator control is wired differently.  I've checked
connections there and they're good.  But is there any break-down inside that
could cause a power disruption to the ignition system.  
> 
> Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram whether the
generator or the starter could be stealing power from the ignition system.
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 22:53:46 -0700

> Jets centered, float 
> bowls have no gas in them,

A typo?  Float bowls should have gas in them, engine won't run without gas.
If the bowls are running dry, you've got a fuel delivery problem.

> So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I 
> replaced that too), the generator control is wired 
> differently.

Not that I know of.  I installed a Pertronix, had it running for months,
eventually removed it, no changes at all to generator control.  The
Pertronix needs exactly 3 connections on a TR3A, ground through the point
plate (which can be a problem), power from the hot side of the coil, and the
output to the ground side of the coil.

> Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram 
> whether the generator or the starter could be stealing power 
> from the ignition system.
> 

Instead of replacing everything in sight, try doing some tests.  Temporarily
connect a 12v test light from the coil hot terminal (which should also feed
the Pertronix) to a good ground on the engine.  Start the engine, watch the
light.  It may dim a bit while cranking, but should stay full brightness
once the starter is no longer engaged.  If it dims when the engine dies,
you've proven an electrical problem; which you can now go looking for in a
similar manner.

If the light stays full brightness, though, either the Pertronix is flaking
out, or the problem lies elsewhere.  I would look next at the ground wire
for the point plate, as they flex in service and sometimes break inside the
insulation.

-- Randall

---

From: Greg Lemon <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 08:29:48 +0200

--===============6691201403368500200==

--00000000000005db9a058a150793

To focus on what Randall said "float bowls have no fuel in them" Car won't
run without it, do you have a clogged line?  I have had this happen on
several cars, fuel flows when you turn the car on, whatever is restricting
(usually chunks or tiny flakes of rust) is drawn to they line intake on the
tank or other point of restriction and fuel stops, sometimes runs for a few
minutes, sometimes ten or 15.  You stop for long enough it will start again
and repeat the cycle.

Just a thought.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Thu, May 30, 2019, 7:58 AM Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

--00000000000005db9a058a150793
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<div dir=3D"auto">To focus on what Randall said &quot;float bowls have no f=
uel in them&quot; Car won&#39;t run without it, do you have a clogged line?=
=C2=A0 I have had this happen on several cars, fuel flows when you turn the=
 car on, whatever is restricting (usually chunks or tiny flakes of rust) is=
 drawn to they line intake on the tank or other point of restriction and fu=
el stops, sometimes runs for a few minutes, sometimes ten or 15.=C2=A0 You =
stop for long enough it will start again and repeat the cycle.<div dir=3D"a=
uto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Just a thought.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br=
></div><div dir=3D"auto">Greg Lemon</div><div dir=3D"auto">TR250</div></div=
><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Th=
u, May 30, 2019, 7:58 AM Randall &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quo=
te" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"=
><br>
&gt; Jets centered, float <br>
&gt; bowls have no gas in them,<br>
<br>
A typo?=C2=A0 Float bowls should have gas in them, engine won&#39;t run wit=
hout gas.<br>
If the bowls are running dry, you&#39;ve got a fuel delivery problem.<br>
<br>
&gt; So question.=C2=A0 When one has done the Pertronix modification (I <br=
&gt; replaced that too), the generator control is wired <br>
&gt; differently.<br>
<br>
Not that I know of.=C2=A0 I installed a Pertronix, had it running for month=
s,<br>
eventually removed it, no changes at all to generator control.=C2=A0 The<br=
Pertronix needs exactly 3 connections on a TR3A, ground through the point<b=
r>
plate (which can be a problem), power from the hot side of the coil, and th=
e<br>
output to the ground side of the coil.<br>
<br>
&gt; Second question, I can&#39;t really tell from the wiring diagram <br>
&gt; whether the generator or the starter could be stealing power <br>
&gt; from the ignition system.<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; I&#39;ll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts?<br>
<br>
Instead of replacing everything in sight, try doing some tests.=C2=A0 Tempo=
rarily<br>
connect a 12v test light from the coil hot terminal (which should also feed=
<br>
the Pertronix) to a good ground on the engine.=C2=A0 Start the engine, watc=
h the<br>
light.=C2=A0 It may dim a bit while cranking, but should stay full brightne=
ss<br>
once the starter is no longer engaged.=C2=A0 If it dims when the engine die=
s,<br>
you&#39;ve proven an electrical problem; which you can now go looking for i=
n a<br>
similar manner.<br>
<br>
If the light stays full brightness, though, either the Pertronix is flaking=
<br>
out, or the problem lies elsewhere.=C2=A0 I would look next at the ground w=
ire<br>
for the point plate, as they flex in service and sometimes break inside the=
<br>
insulation.<br>
<br>
-- Randall<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nore=
ferrer">[email-masked]</a> **<br>
<br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
er noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=
=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer=
" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http:/=
/autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div>

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From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 11:39:58 +0000 (UTC)

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 That is a very common compressor used on GM cars in the late 70's and earl=
y 80's.=C2=A0 But the replacements are a bit different since the port for t=
he superheat switch has been repurposed to a high pressure cutout switch so=
, don't use the time-delay fuse.=C2=A0=20
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]>
To: triumphs <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 4:14 pm
Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning

Anyone know source for stock AC parts for low mileage 81 tr8.=C2=A0 Delco R=
4 compressor.=C2=A0 Want to update to modern r134 but want stock appearance=
.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL

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<div style="color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size="3">That is a very common compressor used on GM cars in the late 70's and early 80's.&nbsp; But the replacements are a bit different since the port for the superheat switch has been repurposed to a high pressure cutout switch so, don't use the time-delay fuse.&nbsp; </font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="clear:both"><font size="4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Jim Henningsen &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 4:14 pm<br>
Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning<br>
<br>

<div dir="ltr">Anyone know source for stock AC parts for low mileage 81 tr8.&nbsp; Delco R4 compressor.&nbsp; Want to update to modern r134 but want stock appearance.<br>
</div>

<div dir="ltr">Thanks,<br>
</div>

<div dir="ltr">Jim Henningsen<br>
</div>

<div dir="ltr">Ocala FL<br>
</div>

<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>

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From: Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 10:06:52 -0400

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	charset=utf-8
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Dave,
Thanks. That=E2=80=99s Greek to me as I have never worked on AC before.  Was=
 hoping there would be a specific part cross reference on Delco r4 unit that=
 would be a bolt in.
Jim

Sent from my iPad

> On May 30, 2019, at 7:39 AM, DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
y 80's.  But the replacements are a bit different since the port for the sup=
erheat switch has been repurposed to a high pressure cutout switch so, don't=
 use the time-delay fuse. =20
> Anyone know source for stock AC parts for low mileage 81 tr8.  Delco R4 co=
mpressor.  Want to update to modern r134 but want stock appearance.
> Ocala FL

--Apple-Mail-1F9C8F32-3E14-4FD8-9DD0-6BAB97592034
	charset=utf-8
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Dave,<div>Thanks. That=E2=80=99s Greek to m=
e as I have never worked on AC before. &nbsp;Was hoping there would be a spe=
cific part cross reference on Delco r4 unit that would be a bolt in.</div><d=
iv>Jim<br><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPad</=
div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On May 30, 2019, at 7:39 AM, DAVID MASSEY &lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></=
div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size=3D"3">That is a very common compressor used on GM cars in t=
he late 70's and early 80's.&nbsp; But the replacements are a bit different s=
ince the port for the superheat switch has been repurposed to a high pressur=
e cutout switch so, don't use the time-delay fuse.&nbsp; </font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"clear:both"><font size=3D"4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----O=
riginal Message-----<br>
From: Jim Henningsen &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">trguy75@gmail.=
com</a>&gt;<br>
To: triumphs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a>&gt;<br>
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 4:14 pm<br>
Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning<br>
<br>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Anyone know source for stock AC parts for low mileage 81 tr=
8.&nbsp; Delco R4 compressor.&nbsp; Want to update to modern r134 but want s=
tock appearance.<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks,<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Jim Henningsen<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Ocala FL<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div></blockquote></div></body></html>=

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From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 10:45:21 -0400 (EDT)

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Sorry, everyone.  I meant to say the floats themselves have no fuel, meaning no pinholes causing flooding.  

> On May 30, 2019 at 2:29 AM Greg Lemon <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
>     To focus on what Randall said "float bowls have no fuel in them" Car won't run without it, do you have a clogged line?  I have had this happen on several cars, fuel flows when you turn the car on, whatever is restricting (usually chunks or tiny flakes of rust) is drawn to they line intake on the tank or other point of restriction and fuel stops, sometimes runs for a few minutes, sometimes ten or 15.  You stop for long enough it will start again and repeat the cycle.
> 
>     Just a thought.
> 
>     Greg Lemon
>     TR250
> 
>     On Thu, May 30, 2019, 7:58 AM Randall < [email-masked] mailto:[email-masked] > wrote:
> 
>         > >         > Jets centered, float
> >         ** [email-masked] mailto:[email-masked] **
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
> > 

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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html><head>
    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sa=
ns-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Sorry, everyone.&#160; I meant to say th=
e floats themselves have no fuel, meaning no pinholes causing flooding.&#16=
0;&#160;</p><blockquote type=3D"cite">On May 30, 2019 at 2:29 AM Greg Lemon=
 &#60;[email-masked]&#62; wrote: <br> <br><div dir=3D"auto">To focus on w=
hat Randall said &#34;float bowls have no fuel in them&#34; Car won&#39;t r=
un without it, do you have a clogged line?&#160; I have had this happen on =
several cars, fuel flows when you turn the car on, whatever is restricting =
(usually chunks or tiny flakes of rust) is drawn to they line intake on the=
 tank or other point of restriction and fuel stops, sometimes runs for a fe=
w minutes, sometimes ten or 15.&#160; You stop for long enough it will star=
t again and repeat the cycle.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=
Just a thought.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Greg Lem=
on</div><div dir=3D"auto">TR250</div></div><br><div class=3D"ox-ceae52b07b-=
gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"ox-ceae52b07b-gmail_attr">On Thu, Ma=
y 30, 2019, 7:58 AM Randall &#60; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">TR=
[email-masked]</a>&#62; wrote: <br></div><blockquote><br> &#62; Jets cen=
tered, float <br> &#62; bowls have no gas in them, <br> <br> A typo?&#160; =
Float bowls should have gas in them, engine won&#39;t run without gas. <br>=
 If the bowls are running dry, you&#39;ve got a fuel delivery problem. <br>=
 <br> &#62; So question.&#160; When one has done the Pertronix modification=
 (I <br> &#62; replaced that too), the generator control is wired <br> &#62=
; differently. <br> <br> Not that I know of.&#160; I installed a Pertronix,=
 had it running for months, <br> eventually removed it, no changes at all t=
o generator control.&#160; The <br> Pertronix needs exactly 3 connections o=
n a TR3A, ground through the point <br> plate (which can be a problem), pow=
er from the hot side of the coil, and the <br> output to the ground side of=
 the coil. <br> <br> &#62; Second question, I can&#39;t really tell from th=
e wiring diagram <br> &#62; whether the generator or the starter could be s=
tealing power <br> &#62; from the ignition system. <br> &#62; <br> &#62; I&=
#39;ll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts? <br> <br> Instead of repla=
cing everything in sight, try doing some tests.&#160; Temporarily <br> conn=
ect a 12v test light from the coil hot terminal (which should also feed <br=
> the Pertronix) to a good ground on the engine.&#160; Start the engine, wa=
tch the <br> light.&#160; It may dim a bit while cranking, but should stay =
full brightness <br> once the starter is no longer engaged.&#160; If it dim=
s when the engine dies, <br> you&#39;ve proven an electrical problem; which=
 you can now go looking for in a <br> similar manner. <br> <br> If the ligh=
t stays full brightness, though, either the Pertronix is flaking <br> out, =
or the problem lies elsewhere.&#160; I would look next at the ground wire <=
br> for the point plate, as they flex in service and sometimes break inside=
 the <br> insulation. <br> <br> -- Randall <br> <br> ** <a href=3D"mailto:t=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a> ** <br> <br> Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html=
" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a> <b=
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lank" rel=3D"noopener">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>&#160; <a =
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p://www.team.net/archive</a> <br> <br> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http:=
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mail.com</a> <br></blockquote></div>** [email-masked] ** <br> <br>=
permail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive <br> <br>Unsubscribe/Manage: h=
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ckquote></body></html>
=20
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---

From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 10:56:35 -0400 (EDT)

Thanks, Randall.  You are, of course, right on about doing tests.  Trouble is, this has been an intermittent problem that can test fine at one moment or another and I never know which state it's in at the moment!

Good news (:-p) is, now it starts and stalls right away.  After a moment, it starts again.  Sounds like fuel starvation so checked fuel lines and for any obstruction in the tank (none there).  On the other hand, intermittently, when I turn the ignition switch on, I get nothing.  Other times, I get power but the starter just makes a clunk sound.  Other times, it fires right up.  Sounds like an electrical problem.  

Gadfrey!!!!!

> On May 30, 2019 at 1:53 AM Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> > Jets centered, float

---

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 08:38:44 -0700

So, don't assume it's a single problem.  Focus on one symptom and run it to
ground as far as you can.  Then if something else stops you (like a no-crank
condition), go chase that.

One tactic I've found useful is to connect your meter or test light using a
long cord, so you can bring the meter out where you can see it from the
driver's seat.  Years ago, I went as far as making up a test harness from
about 20' of lamp cord, with alligator clips on one end and pin jacks (to
accept the meter leads) on the other end.  At one point, I drove several
weeks with it connected to the OD relay and the meter on the seat beside me,
so I could turn it on and check relay function any time it acted up. (Turned
out the relay itself was intermittent.)

When the starter just makes a clunk, check how much power is getting to the
starter motor.  If it's getting juice but won't crank the engine, chances
are the motor itself has a problem.  Use the rubber button on the starter
solenoid, as that bypasses all of the wiring harness, dash switches, etc.
Check that the engine can be turned (eg put the gearbox in 4th and push the
car forward enough to see the fan move).  The two most common problems here,
in my experience, are bad connections at the battery posts, and a bad
connection where the battery ground strap joins the body.  Also make sure
the ground strap at the LH motor mount is in place and has good,
metal-to-metal contact at both ends.  (Paint doesn't conduct worth a darn.)

While I dislike throwing parts at problems; those funky "helmet" battery
cables look troublesome to me.  If you have those, you might consider
temporarily replacing the battery cables with ones that have more modern
clamps molded onto them.  Once everything else is sorted, you can go back to
the helmets if you want, with a high confidence that if the problems come
back, the helmets are the problem.  

With the clamps, use a wire brush to clean both the posts and the clamps
just before you put them together.  Just like copper wire, you want the
surfaces bright and shiny when you join them together.  I use a battery
terminal spray like
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Battery-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC
But again, silicone grease or Vaseline will work better than nothing.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild

---

From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 16:34:59 +0000 (UTC)

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 Are you a member of the Triumph Wedge Owners Association?=C2=A0 They have =
a hand cross reference for all sorts of things
http://wedgelist.triumphwedgeowners.org/crossref/They have an Autozone part=
 number listed, 57225
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]>
To: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Cc: triumphs <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thu, May 30, 2019 9:06 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning

Dave,Thanks. That=E2=80=99s Greek to me as I have never worked on AC before=
. =C2=A0Was hoping there would be a specific part cross reference on Delco =
r4 unit that would be a bolt in.Jim

Sent from my iPad

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]>
To: triumphs <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 4:14 pm
Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning

------=_Part_6786607_2003228987.1559234099519
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size=3D"3">Are you a member of the Triumph Wedge Owners Associa=
tion?&nbsp; They have a hand cross reference for all sorts of things</font>=
</div>

<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3">http://wedgelist.triumphwedgeowners.org/crossref/</fo=
nt></div>

<div><font size=3D"3">They have an Autozone part number listed, 57225</font=
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----=
Original Message-----<br>
From: Jim Henningsen &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: DAVID MASSEY &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Cc: triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Thu, May 30, 2019 9:06 am<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"yiv3056775935">
<div>Dave,
<div>Thanks. That=E2=80=99s Greek to me as I have never worked on AC before=
. &nbsp;Was hoping there would be a specific part cross reference on Delco =
r4 unit that would be a bolt in.</div>

<div>Jim<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">
<div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yiv3056775935AppleMailSignature">Sent from my iPad</=
div>

<div class=3D"yiv3056775935yqt5838423906" id=3D"yiv3056775935yqt61414">
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none">On May 30, 2019, at 7:39 AM, DAVID MASS=
EY &lt;<a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:dave=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" removedlink__43894de9-03df-43fb-b5c5-94b1=
11d27235__href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wro=
te:<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"></div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">

<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">

<div> <font size=3D"3">That is a very common compressor used on GM cars in =
the late 70's and early 80's.&nbsp; But the replacements are a bit differen=
t since the port for the superheat switch has been repurposed to a high pre=
ssure cutout switch so, don't use the time-delay fuse.&nbsp; </font><br cle=
ar=3D"none">
</div>

<div> <br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div style=3D"clear:both;"><font size=3D"4">Dave </font><br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div> <br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div> <br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial, helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black;">---=
--Original Message-----<br clear=3D"none">
From: Jim Henningsen &lt;<a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymai=
lto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" removedlink__43894de9-03=
df-43fb-b5c5-94b111d27235__href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">trguy75@gmail.=
com</a>&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
To: triumphs &lt;<a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"m=
ailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" removedlink__43894de9-03df=
-43fb-b5c5-94b111d27235__href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">triumphs@a=
utox.team.net</a>&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 4:14 pm<br clear=3D"none">
Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">

<div dir=3D"ltr">Anyone know source for stock AC parts for low mileage 81 t=
r8.&nbsp; Delco R4 compressor.&nbsp; Want to update to modern r134 but want=
 stock appearance.<br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks,<br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Jim Henningsen<br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Ocala FL<br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>

<br clear=3D"none">
</div>

</div>

</div>
</blockquote></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

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---

From: "Keith Richard Stewart" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 15:37:36 -0400

TERRY SMITH wrote on May 29, 2019 9:37 PM
++++++++++

I've tracked wiring through the system.  I thought a partial open (broken wires) at the lighting switch where it feeds the ignition switch would fix it.  Didn't.  Replaced the 60 year old ignition switch. Didn't fix it.  Double checked the fuse holder for solid and clean connections.  Not the issue.  When it does run, the voltmeter (not ammeter) shows just the 12 volts from the battery, and not a charge.  White wire from the fuse to the coil tests no short to ground, and bypassing it with another connecting wire doesn't cure the problem either.  
++++++++++
Symptoms seem similar to a problem we had in my wife's TR6. Do you have a spare coil to swap in? That was her problem. Previous owner had an engine rebuild and the rebuilder put back in a 40+ year old coil. Replacement coil and tight connections were an easy fix.

Keith Stewart
[email-masked]

---

From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 18:54:44 -0400 (EDT)

Good suggestion, Keith.  Thanks.  Yep, did try that.  And Voltage to the coil checks at 12.3 volts.  

At this point, after the engine sits for about ten or so minutes, it'll start and rev quickly, then completely stall.  

I've run the new electric fuel pump for a time into a 5 gallon jug and got good pressure throughout, so concerns about an intermittent weak connection there are reduced.  And I can't see any circuit on that side of the fuse box that could drain all power from it.  I did check all the things Randall mentioned already, even swapped out the battery for another I had (marine for my dump trailer).  I did a complete tune-up...needed one anyway...with new plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor.  Tomorrow am going back to square one to check the Pertronix, swapping it back to points.  As some have experienced, I may have gotten a bad set when I replaced it.  I just can't figure what could allow it to start, rev, then die immediately other than, as Randall mentioned, Pertronix likes high voltage and something is robbing it once the engine starts firing. That's why I wonder if the starter or the generator control box might be the culprit.  (BTW, the control box is indeed wired for a generator; I forgot that some time ago I'd switched back to one from the alternator conversion I ran for a time.) 

Staying positive, I sense copious beer in my future once this thing finally fires up and runs!

> On May 30, 2019 at 3:37 PM Keith Richard Stewart <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
>