Subject: [TR] manual gearbox alignment bolts TR6 /Stag (Sujit Roy)

From: "Frank Magnusson" <[email-masked]> a=ghaoKe/rVHPOl5ZgEXW5Qg==:117 a=ghaoKe/rVHPOl5ZgEXW5Qg==:17 a=kj9zAlcOel0A:10 a=sp2D9erbc5kA:10 a=FxorI9b4pqHqzuX66AQA:9 a=T2WF9oJ97t_v_Mcy:21 a=56w7v5-FclM_1lws:21 a=CjuIK1q_8ugA:10
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2019 14:50:48 -0600

Hi Sujit,

Very common problem on the Stag, which does not have these dowels (and
should).  On the TR6 (and GT6) IIRC, there are just several dowels on the
top and not the bottom.  I never had an issue with these dowels on my TR6 or
GT6 and never needed to replace them, having had several gearboxes in and
out.  So, I'm assuming you're talking for the Stag.

For the Stag, I never had any issues with my clutch until I decided to
change it, and then had all kinds of the classic Stag issues of sticking
clutch and juddering.  Compounded by the NOS pressure plate I installed was
defective....

For the dowels, I wasn't able to find any of these dowels at the time.  I
assume I tried Rimmers and Paddocks at the time, but it's probably been 10
years.  The bolt holes on the bell housing and block on mine were oval
shaped from wear, so I took a reamer and got them round again and up to a
standard size of the reamer, then went to an aerospace machine shop and had
them make me some dowel pins of the right size.  I believe he started with
dowel pins that they use for jigs and other hard tooling.  That along with a
good heavy duty pressure plate and clutch from Tony Hart in the UK and the
longer "snout" on the gearbox fixed all of my issues.

There is a good article on the Buckeye Triumphs site on the clutch judder
issue and snout; apparently it's a TR6 problem as well, although I never had
it on mine.  Worse on the Stag due to the heavier clutch I think.

My Mk I Stag had the shorter snout.  I believe the factory changed to a
longer snout in around '76.  I got a good used longer snout from Martin
Dimmock in the UK.  Not sure if the usual suppliers sell these now or not,
but upgrading to the longer snout would be a good idea if you're in there.
That's what the factory did.

If your top bolt holes on your bellhousing and block are oval like mine
were, standard dowels may not work.  Worth a try if they're not too bad.  I
chose to have some custom made; not sure if std dowel pins would have worked
or not, as I couldn't locate any.

What issues are you having with yours?

Frank

<Im aware the TR6 gearbox uses two special machined bolts to align the box
to engine plate.
They are positioned about 11pm and 2pm on the bell housing.

Someone on that  forum used one at the bottom as well (slightly smaller
diameter bolt.)

Has anyone else tried this and if so, where did you get the bolt?
The Stag and TR6 bell housing are similar.

Does anyone know if the Dolomite Sprint used the same bell housing as the
TR6?>

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From: Sujit Roy <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2019 09:43:28 -0800

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HI Randall and Frank,
It for  the Stag  I have 2 aircraft bolts with 3/8 diameter plain shank
that I can use.These are a very tight fit. LD Parts has a specialty
machined bolt that fits  one of the lower holes. Its 24 pounds. Not cheap.

I think I will stick with the two ones I have.

Frank. Rob Sport in UK makes the longer snout. They take your short snout
in exchange. I have  the longer snout. I'm working on a second Stag. It
will be manual with J type OD.

Sujit

On Fri, Feb 15, 2019, 2:06 PM Frank Magnusson <[email-masked] wrote:

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"auto">HI Randall and Frank,</div><div>It for=
=C2=A0 the Stag=C2=A0 I have 2 aircraft bolts with 3/8 diameter plain shank=
 that I can use.These are a very tight fit. LD Parts has a specialty machin=
ed bolt that fits=C2=A0 one of the lower holes. Its 24 pounds. Not cheap.</=
div><div><br></div><div>I think I will stick with the two ones I have.</div=
><div><br></div><div>Frank. Rob Sport in UK makes the longer snout. They ta=
ke your short snout in exchange. I have=C2=A0 the longer snout. I&#39;m wor=
king on a second Stag. It will be manual with J type OD.=C2=A0</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Sujit</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"lt=
r">On Fri, Feb 15, 2019, 2:06 PM Frank Magnusson &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fmag=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a> wrote:<br></div><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px sol=
id rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Hi Sujit,<br>
<br>
Very common problem on the Stag, which does not have these dowels (and<br>
should).=C2=A0 On the TR6 (and GT6) IIRC, there are just several dowels on =
the<br>
top and not the bottom.=C2=A0 I never had an issue with these dowels on my =
TR6 or<br>
GT6 and never needed to replace them, having had several gearboxes in and<b=
r>
out.=C2=A0 So, I&#39;m assuming you&#39;re talking for the Stag.<br>
<br>
For the Stag, I never had any issues with my clutch until I decided to<br>
change it, and then had all kinds of the classic Stag issues of sticking<br=
clutch and juddering.=C2=A0 Compounded by the NOS pressure plate I installe=
d was<br>
defective....<br>
<br>
For the dowels, I wasn&#39;t able to find any of these dowels at the time.=
=C2=A0 I<br>
assume I tried Rimmers and Paddocks at the time, but it&#39;s probably been=
 10<br>
years.=C2=A0 The bolt holes on the bell housing and block on mine were oval=
<br>
shaped from wear, so I took a reamer and got them round again and up to a<b=
r>
standard size of the reamer, then went to an aerospace machine shop and had=
<br>
them make me some dowel pins of the right size.=C2=A0 I believe he started =
with<br>
dowel pins that they use for jigs and other hard tooling.=C2=A0 That along =
with a<br>
good heavy duty pressure plate and clutch from Tony Hart in the UK and the<=
br>
longer &quot;snout&quot; on the gearbox fixed all of my issues.<br>
<br>
There is a good article on the Buckeye Triumphs site on the clutch judder<b=
r>
issue and snout; apparently it&#39;s a TR6 problem as well, although I neve=
r had<br>
it on mine.=C2=A0 Worse on the Stag due to the heavier clutch I think.<br>
<br>
My Mk I Stag had the shorter snout.=C2=A0 I believe the factory changed to =
a<br>
longer snout in around &#39;76.=C2=A0 I got a good used longer snout from M=
artin<br>
Dimmock in the UK.=C2=A0 Not sure if the usual suppliers sell these now or =
not,<br>
but upgrading to the longer snout would be a good idea if you&#39;re in the=
re.<br>
That&#39;s what the factory did.<br>
<br>
If your top bolt holes on your bellhousing and block are oval like mine<br>
were, standard dowels may not work.=C2=A0 Worth a try if they&#39;re not to=
o bad.=C2=A0 I<br>
chose to have some custom made; not sure if std dowel pins would have worke=
d<br>
or not, as I couldn&#39;t locate any.<br>
<br>
What issues are you having with yours?<br>
<br>
<br>
Frank<br>
<br>
&lt;Im aware the TR6 gearbox uses two special machined bolts to align the b=
ox<br>
to engine plate.<br>
They are positioned about 11pm and 2pm on the bell housing.<br>
<br>
Someone on that=C2=A0 forum used one at the bottom as well (slightly smalle=
r<br>
diameter bolt.)<br>
<br>
Has anyone else tried this and if so, where did you get the bolt?<br>
The Stag and TR6 bell housing are similar.<br>
<br>
Does anyone know if the Dolomite Sprint used the same bell housing as the<b=
r>
TR6?&gt;<br>
<br>
<br>
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ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div>

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