Subject: [TR] Engine stand

From: Bob Nogueira <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2018 18:15:26 +0000

I’m about to rebuild my TR 4 engine. I’ve done it three times in the past so there’s not much I’m worried about. The one thing that freaks me out is suspending the engine on the engine stand by four 5/16 inch bolts. Every time I see it sitting there I freak out that the bolts are going to snap and the engine is going to come crashing down.
    Two things I’ve done to relieve my paranoia is add a cross beam on the front so it has four wheels not the original three and keep a two by four between the front of the engine and the leg to carry the weight of the suspended engine.
      Two questions, am I being paranoid and should I use grade 5 or grade 8 bolts to fasten the engine to the stand?

Thanks for any advise.

Bob Nogueira 
** [email-masked] **

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2018 00:49:53 +0000 icro6MAPtt98fAc4vGK1EeWMzlD0YvXPDOKnRbSDk9gaCJrC1/B5k9MuP/pu7NnUI7TzTGOOcwZNvqm0HHPNEtVE5+OWWdRPN5s=

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Don't let these guys make you feel bad about asking the question,=0Afrea=
ks me out too. If you look at the factory manual for a Healey big=0Asix=
 they pull it out with a special tool on the valve cover studs,=0Awhich=
 are not very substantial. =0AI have decided intellectually the 5/16" bo=
lts are not something I need=0Ato worry about, but it still looks like a=
 lot of weight held on by=0Asome little sticks to me.=0AHowever, a big s=
ix will tilt a small three point engine stand pretty=0Aeasily if a wheel=
 catches on some kitty litter when you try to push=0Ait.=0AGreg LemonTR2=
50=0A=0A=09-----------------------------------------From: "Bob Nogueira"=
 =0A=0ATo: "Triumphs list"=0ACc: =0ASent: Tuesday October 23 2018 2:15:2=
6PM=0ASubject: [TR] Engine stand=0A=0A I=E2=80=99m about to rebuild my T=
R 4 engine. I=E2=80=99ve done it three times in=0Athe past so there=E2=
=80=99s not much I=E2=80=99m worried about. The one thing that=0Afreaks=
 me out is suspending the engine on the engine stand by four=0A5/16 inch=
 bolts. Every time I see it sitting there I freak out that=0Athe bolts a=
re going to snap and the engine is going to come crashing=0Adown.=0A Two=
 things I=E2=80=99ve done to relieve my paranoia is add a cross beam on=
=0Athe front so it has four wheels not the original three and keep a two=
=0Aby four between the front of the engine and the leg to carry the=0Awe=
ight of the suspended engine.=0A Two questions, am I being paranoid and=
 should I use grade 5 or grade=0A8 bolts to fasten the engine to the sta=
nd?=0A=0A Thanks for any advise.=0A=0A Bob Nogueira =0A ** triumphs@auto=
x.team.net **=0A=0A Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html=0A /> Archiv=
e: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs [1]=0Ahttp://www.team.net/arch=
ive=0A /> =0A Unsubscribe/Manage:=0Ahttp://autox.team.net/mailman/option=
s/triumphs/[email-masked]=0A /> =0A=0ALinks:=0A------=0A[1] http://ww=
w.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=0A

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<html><body>Don't let these guys make you feel bad about asking the ques=
tion, freaks me out too.&nbsp; If you look at the factory manual for a H=
ealey big six they pull it out with a special tool on the valve cover st=
uds, which are not very substantial.&nbsp;&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>I ha=
ve decided intellectually the 5/16" bolts are not something I need to wo=
rry about, but it still looks like a lot of weight held on by some littl=
e sticks to me.</div><div><br></div><div>However, a big six will tilt a=
 small three point engine stand pretty easily if a wheel catches on some=
 kitty litter when you try to push it.</div><div><br></div><div>Greg Lem=
on</div><div>TR250<br><br><div class=3D"reply-new-signature"></div><p>--=
---------------------------------------</p>From: "Bob Nogueira" <nogera@=
hotmail.com><br><br></[email-masked]><div><[email-masked]>To: "T=
riumphs list"<br>Cc: <br>Sent: Tuesday October 23 2018 2:15:26PM<br>Subj=
ect: [TR] Engine stand<br><br> I=E2=80=99m about to rebuild my TR 4 engi=
ne. I=E2=80=99ve done it three times in the past so there=E2=80=99s not=
 much I=E2=80=99m worried about. The one thing that freaks me out is sus=
pending the engine on the engine stand by four 5/16 inch bolts. Every ti=
me I see it sitting there I freak out that the bolts are going to snap a=
nd the engine is going to come crashing down.<br>=0A Two things I=E2=80=
=99ve done to relieve my paranoia is add a cross beam on the front so it=
 has four wheels not the original three and keep a two by four between t=
he front of the engine and the leg to carry the weight of the suspended=
 engine.<br>=0A Two questions, am I being paranoid and should I use grad=
e 5 or grade 8 bolts to fasten the engine to the stand?<br>=0A <br>=0A T=
hanks for any advise.<br>=0A <br>=0A Bob Nogueira <br>=0A ** triumphs@au=
tox.team.net **<br>=0A <br>=0A Donate: <a target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http=
://www.team.net/donate.html&lt;br">http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>=
=0A /&gt; Archive: </a><a target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://www.team.net/=
pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> <a target=
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et/archive<br>=0A /&gt; <br>=0A Unsubscribe/Manage: </a><a target=3D"_bl=
ank" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]=
r.com&lt;br">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]=
r.com<br>=0A /&gt; </a></[email-masked]></div></div></body></html>

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From: DAVE HOGYE <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2018 20:52:05 -0700 (PDT)

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The bolts that fasten the engine to the stand might not be the issue.  The =
single bolt that attaches the square tube member which has the stationary w=
heels to the vertical member is more of a concern.  So far, so good, in my =
garage.

Smilie face,

Dave H.

> On October 24, 2018 at 5:49 PM [email-masked] wrote:
>=20
>     Don't let these guys make you feel bad about asking the question, fre=
aks me out too.  If you look at the factory manual for a Healey big six the=
y pull it out with a special tool on the valve cover studs, which are not v=
ery substantial. =20
>=20
>     I have decided intellectually the 5/16" bolts are not something I nee=
d to worry about, but it still looks like a lot of weight held on by some l=
ittle sticks to me.
>=20
>     However, a big six will tilt a small three point engine stand pretty =
easily if a wheel catches on some kitty litter when you try to push it.
>=20
>     Greg Lemon
>     TR250
>=20
>     =20
>=20
>     -----------------------------------------
>=20
>     From: "Bob Nogueira"
>=20
>     </[email-masked]>
>     To: "Triumphs list"
>     Cc:
>     Sent: Tuesday October 23 2018 2:15:26PM
>     Subject: [TR] Engine stand
>=20
>     I=E2=80=99m about to rebuild my TR 4 engine. I=E2=80=99ve done it thr=
ee times in the past so there=E2=80=99s not much I=E2=80=99m worried about.=
 The one thing that freaks me out is suspending the engine on the engine st=
and by four 5/16 inch bolts. Every time I see it sitting there I freak out =
that the bolts are going to snap and the engine is going to come crashing d=
own.
>     Two things I=E2=80=99ve done to relieve my paranoia is add a cross be=
am on the front so it has four wheels not the original three and keep a two=
 by four between the front of the engine and the leg to carry the weight of=
 the suspended engine.
>     Two questions, am I being paranoid and should I use grade 5 or grade =
8 bolts to fasten the engine to the stand?
>=20
>=20
>=20
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>     http://www.team.net/archive
>     />
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>     />
>=20

>=20
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/a=
rchive
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/>

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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html><head>
    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sa=
ns-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">The bolts that fasten the engine to the =
stand might not be the issue.&#160; The single bolt that attaches the squar=
e tube member which has the stationary wheels to the vertical member is mor=
e of a concern.&#160; So far, so good, in my garage.</p><p style=3D"font-si=
ze: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51)=
;">Smilie face,</p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, ari=
al, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Dave H.</p><blockquote type=3D"cit=
e">On October 24, 2018 at 5:49 PM [email-masked] wrote: <br> <br>Don&#39=
;t let these guys make you feel bad about asking the question, freaks me ou=
t too.&#160; If you look at the factory manual for a Healey big six they pu=
ll it out with a special tool on the valve cover studs, which are not very =
substantial.&#160;&#160;<div><br></div><div>I have decided intellectually t=
he 5/16&#34; bolts are not something I need to worry about, but it still lo=
oks like a lot of weight held on by some little sticks to me.</div><div><br=
></div><div>However, a big six will tilt a small three point engine stand p=
retty easily if a wheel catches on some kitty litter when you try to push i=
t.</div><div><br></div><div>Greg Lemon</div><div>TR250 <br> <br><div class=
=3D"ox-e341e2bb78-reply-new-signature">&#160;<br></div><p>-----------------=
------------------------</p>From: &#34;Bob Nogueira&#34; <br> <br> &#60;/no=
[email-masked]&#62;<div>To: &#34;Triumphs list&#34; <br>Cc: <br>Sent: Tue=
sday October 23 2018 2:15:26PM <br>Subject: [TR] Engine stand <br> <br> I&#=
8217;m about to rebuild my TR 4 engine. I&#8217;ve done it three times in t=
he past so there&#8217;s not much I&#8217;m worried about. The one thing th=
at freaks me out is suspending the engine on the engine stand by four 5/16 =
inch bolts. Every time I see it sitting there I freak out that the bolts ar=
e going to snap and the engine is going to come crashing down. <br> Two thi=
ngs I&#8217;ve done to relieve my paranoia is add a cross beam on the front=
 so it has four wheels not the original three and keep a two by four betwee=
n the front of the engine and the leg to carry the weight of the suspended =
engine. <br> Two questions, am I being paranoid and should I use grade 5 or=
 grade 8 bolts to fasten the engine to the stand? <br> <br> Thanks for any =
advise. <br> <br> Bob Nogueira <br> ** [email-masked] ** <br> <br>=
 Donate: <a target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumph=
s" rel=3D"noopener">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a><a target=3D"=
_blank"><br>http://www.team.net/archive<br> /&#62; <br> Unsubscribe/Manage:=
 </a> <a target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tr=
iumphs/[email-masked]&lt;br &gt;http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tr=
iumphs/[email-masked]&lt;br&gt; /&gt; &lt;/a&gt;
     &lt;/[email-masked]&gt;
    &lt;/div&gt;
   &lt;/div&gt;
  &lt;/blockquote&gt;=20
  &lt;br&gt;=20
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dding-left: 10px; border-left: solid 1px blue;" rel=3D"noopener" data-mce-h=
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r>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]<br> /&#6=
2; </a>
    =20
    </div>
   </div>
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  <br>=20
  <blockquote type=3D""> ** [email-masked] ** <br> <br>Donate: htt=
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=20
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From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2018 11:28:50 +0000 (UTC)

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 The math says:The cross sectional area of a 5/16 bolt is 0.076 sq in.=C2=
=A0 But the tensile strength of a grade 5 bolt is in the range of 100,000 P=
SI which means a 5/16 bolt will pull apart at about 7,700 lbs.=C2=A0 Liftin=
g a 600 lb engine with four bolts good for 7,000 lbs leaves a pretty genero=
us safety margin.
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: GLEMON <[email-masked]>
To: 'Bob Nogueira' <[email-masked]>; 'Triumphs list' <[email-masked]=
am.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 24, 2018 9:00 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine stand

Don't let these guys make you feel bad about asking the question, freaks me=
 out too.=C2=A0 If you look at the factory manual for a Healey big six they=
 pull it out with a special tool on the valve cover studs, which are not ve=
ry substantial.=C2=A0=C2=A0
I have decided intellectually the 5/16" bolts are not something I need to w=
orry about, but it still looks like a lot of weight held on by some little =
sticks to me.
However, a big six will tilt a small three point engine stand pretty easily=
 if a wheel catches on some kitty litter when you try to push it.
Greg LemonTR250

-----------------------------------------From: "Bob Nogueira"=20

 To: "Triumphs list"
Cc:=20

 I=E2=80=99m about to rebuild my TR 4 engine. I=E2=80=99ve done it three ti=
mes in the past so there=E2=80=99s not much I=E2=80=99m worried about. The =
one thing that freaks me out is suspending the engine on the engine stand b=
y four 5/16 inch bolts. Every time I see it sitting there I freak out that =
the bolts are going to snap and the engine is going to come crashing down.
 Two things I=E2=80=99ve done to relieve my paranoia is add a cross beam on=
 the front so it has four wheels not the original three and keep a two by f=
our between the front of the engine and the leg to carry the weight of the =
suspended engine.
 Two questions, am I being paranoid and should I use grade 5 or grade 8 bol=
ts to fasten the engine to the stand?
=20
 Thanks for any advise.
=20
 Bob Nogueira=20
 ** [email-masked] **
=20
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 /> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/arc=
hive
 />=20
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@=
neb.rr.com
 /> ** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archiv=
e

[email-masked]

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<font color=3D'black' size=3D'3' face=3D'Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'>
<div> <font size=3D"3">The math says:</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3">The cross sectional area of a 5/16 bolt is 0.076 sq i=
n.&nbsp; But the tensile strength of a grade 5 bolt is in the range of 100,=
000 PSI which means a 5/16 bolt will pull apart at about 7,700 lbs.&nbsp; L=
ifting a 600 lb engine with four bolts good for 7,000 lbs leaves a pretty g=
enerous safety margin.</font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"clear:both"><font size=3D"4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----=
Original Message-----<br>
From: GLEMON &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: 'Bob Nogueira' &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; 'Triumphs list' &lt;Triumphs=
@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
Sent: Wed, Oct 24, 2018 9:00 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine stand<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"yiv0091344634">
<div>Don't let these guys make you feel bad about asking the question, frea=
ks me out too.&nbsp; If you look at the factory manual for a Healey big six=
 they pull it out with a special tool on the valve cover studs, which are n=
ot very substantial.&nbsp;&nbsp;
<div><br>
</div>

<div>I have decided intellectually the 5/16" bolts are not something I need=
 to worry about, but it still looks like a lot of weight held on by some li=
ttle sticks to me.</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>However, a big six will tilt a small three point engine stand pretty e=
asily if a wheel catches on some kitty litter when you try to push it.</div=

<div><br>
</div>

<div>Greg Lemon</div>

<div>TR250<br>
<br>

<div class=3D"yiv0091344634reply-new-signature"></div>

<div>-----------------------------------------</div>
From: "Bob Nogueira" <br>
<br>

<div> To: "Triumphs list"<br>
Cc: <br>
Sent: Tuesday October 23 2018 2:15:26PM<br>
Subject: [TR] Engine stand<br>
<br>
 I=E2=80=99m about to rebuild my TR 4 engine. I=E2=80=99ve done it three ti=
mes in the past so there=E2=80=99s not much I=E2=80=99m worried about. The =
one thing that freaks me out is suspending the engine on the engine stand b=
y four 5/16 inch bolts. Every time I see it sitting there I freak out that =
the bolts are going to snap and the engine is going to come crashing down.<=
br>

 Two things I=E2=80=99ve done to relieve my paranoia is add a cross beam on=
 the front so it has four wheels not the original three and keep a two by f=
our between the front of the engine and the leg to carry the weight of the =
suspended engine.<br>

 Two questions, am I being paranoid and should I use grade 5 or grade 8 bol=
ts to fasten the engine to the stand?<br>

 <br>

 Thanks for any advise.<br>

 <br>

 Bob Nogueira <br>

 ** [email-masked] **<br>

 <br>

 Donate: <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" target=3D"_blank" removedlink__4413=
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From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2018 11:44:29 +0000 (UTC)

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 I remember helping my friend carry a Healey block.=C2=A0 It took two of us=
 using a pipe passed through one of the cylinders.
So, 140 lbs for the block, 100 lbs for the crank and head comes to 240 lbs.=
=C2=A0 Add in the flywheel, pistons, rods and sleeves and a fully dressed T=
R2,3,4 engine adds up to about 350 lbs or less.
I weighed some TR6 parts and the block is 120 lbs, the crank is 60 lbs and =
flywheel is 30 lbs.=C2=A0 Same ball park.=C2=A0 The Healey block, by itself=
, must weigh in at 200 lbs.
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: DAVE HOGYE <[email-masked]>
To: ptegler <[email-masked]>; triumphs <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wed, Oct 24, 2018 11:54 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine stand

A TR2-3-4 engine block with the crank caps and bolts, weighs very close to =
140 lbs.=C2=A0 That is just the casting, no internals.=C2=A0=C2=A0I did the=
 study for shipping one a few years ago.=C2=A0=C2=A0I ended up meeting a go=
od racer friend at Portland Raceway to pick up the block instead of shippin=
g it.=C2=A0 I lifted the block out of his van and placed it in my car by my=
self.=C2=A0=C2=A0The crank and head are the other heaviest items at around =
50 lbs. each.Dave H.
On October 24, 2018 at 6:18 PM Paul Tegler <[email-masked]> wrote:=20
=20
I seem to remember years back a couple gentleman cutting up a Healey 6 cyl =
block to make casts for an aluminum block build for a race car. IIRC... the=
 oem was something in the order of 700 lbs. The aluminum one came in around=
 half (or less) of that.=C3=AF=C2=BF=C2=BD=C3=AF=C2=BF=C2=BD So in my view,=
 ANY engine is fine on these stands if it can handle a 700 lbs healey block=
 sticking so far our 4's and 6's are just fine!...think mine came from Pep =
Boys on sale... (two wheel up front version)
ptegler

On 10/24/2018 8:59 AM, Reihing, Randall S. wrote:=20

I purchased an engine stand from Harbor Freight, mounted our Ford van's V6 =
engine on it and used that setup to disassemble, rebuild and reassemble the=
 entire engine. No issues. Even though the V6 has a cast steel block with a=
luminum heads and aluminum intake manifold, it is still a lot of weight and=
 I had zero issues with the engine stand. Very stable and easy to roll arou=
nd. Now planning to use the same stand to rebuild the TR3's engine.=C3=AF=
=C2=BF=C2=BD
 Sincerely,Randall Reihing =C3=AF=C2=BF=C2=BD

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<font color=3D'black' size=3D'3' face=3D'Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'>
<div> <font size=3D"3">I remember helping my friend carry a Healey block.&n=
bsp; It took two of us using a pipe passed through one of the cylinders.</f=
ont></div>

<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3">So, 140 lbs for the block, 100 lbs for the crank and =
head comes to 240 lbs.&nbsp; Add in the flywheel, pistons, rods and sleeves=
 and a fully dressed TR2,3,4 engine adds up to about 350 lbs or less.</font=
></div>

<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size=3D"3">I weighed some TR6 parts and the block is 120 lbs, th=
e crank is 60 lbs and flywheel is 30 lbs.&nbsp; Same ball park.&nbsp; The H=
ealey block, by itself, must weigh in at 200 lbs.</font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----=
Original Message-----<br>
From: DAVE HOGYE &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: ptegler &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; triumphs &lt;[email-masked]=
et&gt;<br>
Sent: Wed, Oct 24, 2018 11:54 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine stand<br>
<br>

<div id=3D"yiv4864570361">
<div>
<div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51, 51, 51);">A TR2-3-4 engine block with the crank caps and bolts, we=
ighs very close to 140 lbs.&nbsp; That is just the casting, no internals.&n=
bsp;&nbsp;</div>

<div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51, 51, 51);">I did the study for shipping one a few years ago.&nbsp;&=
nbsp;</div>

<div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51, 51, 51);">I ended up meeting a good racer friend at Portland Racew=
ay to pick up the block instead of shipping it.&nbsp; I lifted the block ou=
t of his van and placed it in my car by myself.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div>

<div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51, 51, 51);">The crank and head are the other heaviest items at aroun=
d 50 lbs. each.</div>

<div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51, 51, 51);">Dave H.</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">On October 24, 2018 at 6:18 PM Paul Tegler &lt;pt=
[email-masked]&gt; wrote:=20
<div class=3D"yiv4864570361yqt7907982147" id=3D"yiv4864570361yqtfd49215"><b=
r clear=3D"none"> <br clear=3D"none">
<div>I seem to remember years back a couple gentleman cutting up a Healey 6=
 cyl block to make casts for an aluminum block build for a race car. IIRC..=
. the oem was something in the order of 700 lbs. The aluminum one came in a=
round half (or less) of that.=C3=AF=C2=BF=C2=BD=C3=AF=C2=BF=C2=BD So in my =
view, ANY engine is fine on these stands if it can handle a 700 lbs healey =
block sticking so far our 4's and 6's are just fine!</div>

<div>...think mine came from Pep Boys on sale... (two wheel up front versio=
n)<br clear=3D"none"></div>

<div>ptegler<br clear=3D"none"></div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv4864570361ox-2e62d864f1-moz-cite-prefix">On 10/24/2018 8:5=
9 AM, Reihing, Randall S. wrote: <br clear=3D"none"></div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div style=3D"direction:ltr;font-family:Tahoma;color:#000000;font-size:10pt=
;">I purchased an engine stand from Harbor Freight, mounted our Ford van's =
V6 engine on it and used that setup to disassemble, rebuild and reassemble =
the entire engine. No issues. Even though the V6 has a cast steel block wit=
h aluminum heads and aluminum intake manifold, it is still a lot of weight =
and I had zero issues with the engine stand. Very stable and easy to roll a=
round. Now planning to use the same stand to rebuild the TR3's engine.=C3=
=AF=C2=BF=C2=BD
<div><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;"><br clear=3D"none"> </span></div>

<div><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;">Sincerely,</span></div>

<div><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;">Randall Reihing =C3=AF=C2=BF=C2=BD</sp=
an>
<div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Times New Roman;color:#000000;font-size:16px;"><h=
r></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</font>
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From: "Frank Magnusson" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2018 14:38:20 -0500

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Hi Bob,

I don't think you're being paranoid at all.  Better safe than sorry.

A 4 wheeled engine stand is better than a 3 wheel one due to tip over
concerns.  Can you do it with a 3 wheeled stand?  Sure, but if you haven't
bought a stand yet, why take the risk of tip over?  Just not worth it.

Same with bolt grades.  I would definitely use grade 5 or grade 8 bolts.
I'm sure someone will say a grade 2 bolt will work but again why take the
risk.  The cost difference between a grade 2 and a grade 5 or 8 is
insignificant.  But the safety margin goes up substantially with the higher
quality bolts.

Same with working around an engine being pulled.  You wouldn't want to be
directly underneath the engine obviously, but I've seen guys do it.
Anything slips or breaks and it falls on you and you're permanently disabled
or dead.  Same with working under a car with just a floor jack and no
jackstands.  You see it all the time and read about fatalities when the 10
cent seal in the jack fails and it all comes crashing down on top of them.

No substitute for safety.

My 2 cents,

Frank

'72 Stag

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3D"#0563C1=
" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Hi Bob,<=
o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNorma=
l>I don&#8217;t think you&#8217;re being paranoid at all.&nbsp; Better safe=
 than sorry.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal>A 4 wheeled engine stand is better than a 3 wheel one due to=
 tip over concerns.&nbsp; Can you do it with a 3 wheeled stand?&nbsp; Sure,=
 but if you haven&#8217;t bought a stand yet, why take the risk of tip over=
?&nbsp; Just not worth it.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Same with bolt grades.&nbsp; I would definitel=
y use grade 5 or grade 8 bolts.&nbsp; I&#8217;m sure someone will say a gra=
de 2 bolt will work but again why take the risk.&nbsp; The cost difference =
between a grade 2 and a grade 5 or 8 is insignificant.&nbsp; But the safety=
 margin goes up substantially with the higher quality bolts.<o:p></o:p></p>=
<p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Same with wo=
rking around an engine being pulled.&nbsp; You wouldn&#8217;t want to be di=
rectly underneath the engine obviously, but I&#8217;ve seen guys do it.&nbs=
p; Anything slips or breaks and it falls on you and you&#8217;re permanentl=
y disabled or dead.&nbsp; Same with working under a car with just a floor j=
ack and no jackstands.&nbsp; You see it all the time and read about fatalit=
ies when the 10 cent seal in the jack fails and it all comes crashing down =
on top of them.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>No substitute for safety.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNor=
mal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>My 2 cents,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Frank<o:p></o:p=
></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>&#8217;72 Stag<o:p></o:p></p></div><div id=3D"DAB=
4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
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From: Chris Simo <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2018 20:06:08 -0400

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in the for what its worth department, i made a plate to side mount the Tr6
engine during a rebuild. I did a reasonable job of estimating center of
gravity, too.

I can provide a sketch if anyone is interested. Was really nice having
access to front and back during the build.

I've done 3 different builds on the stand and have loaned it out a few
times, too.

Sent from my TRASH-80

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<div dir=3D"auto">in the for what its worth department, i made a plate to s=
ide mount the Tr6 engine during a rebuild. I did a reasonable job of estima=
ting center of gravity, too.=C2=A0=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div di=
r=3D"auto">I can provide a sketch if anyone is interested. Was really nice =
having access to front and back during the build.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><b=
r></div><div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;ve done 3 different builds on the stand and=
 have loaned it out a few times, too.<br><br><div data-smartmail=3D"gmail_s=
ignature" dir=3D"auto">Sent from my TRASH-80</div></div></div>

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