Subject: Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages

From: "Reihing, Randall S." <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2016 04:48:02 +0000

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Bill,

Where I used to work we often fabricated extensions to small brushes like t=
hat by TIG welding an extension to the end. Sometimes the extension was sim=
ply fused to the end of the brush's shaft with no rod used. Could you braze=
 or silver solder an extension on?

Randall S.
________________________________
From: Triumphs [[email-masked]] on behalf of Bill Brewer [=
[email-masked]]
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages

     So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4=
. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They cl=
eaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the smal=
l end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8 b=
rass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded i=
t in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and rust=
 poured out. The hole is about 0.180=94 diameter. I=92ve been trying to fin=
d a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better,=
 but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5=94 long an=
d the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3=94. I could pull the small end bu=
shings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there fit the w=
rist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can help it.
     I have been considering buying a 12=94 long 3/16ths (.188=94) drill bi=
t and running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which m=
ight not be a bad thing.

http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-=
Drill-Bit/74680.uts

     Has anybody else been here? How did you get by this?
     TIA,

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

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<div style=3D"direction: ltr;font-family: Tahoma;color: #000000;font-size: =
10pt;">Bill,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Where I used to work we often fabricated extensions to small brushes l=
ike that by TIG welding an extension to the end. Sometimes the extension wa=
s simply fused to the end of the brush's shaft with no rod used. Could you =
braze or silver solder an extension
 on?&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Randall S.&nbsp;<br>
<div style=3D"font-family: Times New Roman; color: #000000; font-size: 16px=
">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRpF518558" style=3D"direction: ltr;"><font face=3D"Tahoma" si=
ze=3D"2" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Triumphs [[email-masked]=
am.net] on behalf of Bill Brewer [[email-masked]]<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages<br>
</font><br>
</div>
<div></div>
<div>
<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; So I am rebuilding a Standard Vangu=
ard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4. The connecting rods have been laying o=
n a shed floor for decades. They cleaned up nicely, but the
 oiling hole through the connecting rod to the small end bushings were all =
rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8 brass welding rod. I poun=
ded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded it in while turning with =
a small Vise-grips. It got the hole
 opened and rust poured out. The hole is about 0.180=94 diameter. I=92ve be=
en trying to find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean =
them out better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be ab=
out 5=94 long and the longest that McMaster
 Carr has is 3=94. I could pull the small end bushings out and go at it fro=
m both ends, but the bushings in there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I w=
ould rather not mess them up if I can help it.</span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have been considering buying a 12=
=94 long 3/16ths (.188=94) drill bit and running that through. It might ope=
n up the hole a little bit, which might not be a bad thing.</span></font></=
p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt"><a href=3D"http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-Hig=
h-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts" target=3D"_blank">http://www=
.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/=
74680.uts</a></span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Has anybody else been here? How did=
 you get by this?</span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; TIA,</span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Bill Brewer</span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Tehachapi, CA</span></font></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"fon=
t-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</span></font></p>
</div>
</div>
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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: ptegler <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2016 01:44:46 -0500

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Harbor Freight sells sets with long handles

also, you can go to any sporting goods (hunting) store.... bore brushes 
and cleaning rods for various caliper rifles and shotguns will get you 
just about every size needed.

ptegler

Paul Tegler [email-masked] www.teglerizer.com
On 12/3/2016 9:48 PM, Bill Brewer wrote:
>
>      So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan 
> Plus 4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for 
> decades. They cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the 
> connecting rod to the small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made 
> a tool out of a piece of 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end 
> flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded it in while turning with a small 
> Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and rust poured out. The hole is 
> about 0.180” diameter. I’ve been trying to find a long 3/16ths tube 
> brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better, but no one makes 
> one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5” long and the longest 
> that McMaster Carr has is 3”. I could pull the small end bushings out 
> and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there fit the wrist 
> pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can help it.
>
>      I have been considering buying a 12” long 3/16ths (.188”) drill 
> bit and running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, 
> which might not be a bad thing.
>
> http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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    <p>Harbor Freight sells sets with long handles <br>
    </p>
    <p>also, you can go to any sporting goods (hunting) store.... bore
      brushes and cleaning rods for various caliper rifles and shotguns
      will get you just about every size needed.</p>
    <p>ptegler<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-signature">Paul Tegler
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.teglerizer.com">www.teglerizer.com</a>
    </div>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/3/2016 9:48 PM, Bill Brewer
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Calibri" size="3"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt">     So I am rebuilding a
              Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4. The
              connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for
              decades. They cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole
              through the connecting rod to the small end bushings were
              all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8
              brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a
              screwdriver, and pounded it in while turning with a small
              Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and rust poured out.
              The hole is about 0.180” diameter. I’ve been trying to
              find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to
              clean them out better, but no one makes one long enough.
              The brush needs to be about 5” long and the longest that
              McMaster Carr has is 3”. I could pull the small end
              bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings
              in there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather
              not mess them up if I can help it.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Calibri" size="3"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt">     I have been considering
              buying a 12” long 3/16ths (.188”) drill bit and running
              that through. It might open up the hole a little bit,
              which might not be a bad thing.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Calibri" size="3"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Calibri" size="3"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt"><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts">http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Calibri" size="3"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Calibri" size="3"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt">     Has anybody else been here?
              How did you get by this?<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Calibri" size="3"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt">     TIA,<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Calibri" size="3"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Calibri" size="3"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt">     Bill Brewer<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Calibri" size="3"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt">     Tehachapi, CA<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><font face="Calibri" size="3"><span
              style="font-size:12.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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      <br>
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** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

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From: marty <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2016 12:28:35 +0000

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Something like this work?

Marty

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-61820/overview/

[https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/MOR-61820_xl.jpg=
]<https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-61820/overview/>

Moroso Engine Cleaning Brush Sets 61820<https://www.summitracing.com/parts/=
mor-61820/overview/>
www.summitracing.com
Find Moroso Engine Cleaning Brush Sets 61820 and get Free Shipping on Order=
s Over $99 at Summit Racing! It's important to have a clean block, especial=
ly in the critical, hard-to-reach areas of the oiling system. Each of the b=
rushes in these Moroso engine cleaning brush sets is designed for a specifi=
c purpose. They can be used on crankshaft oil holes, cylinder heads, etc. T=
heir bristles are made of nylon, which cleans as well as wire but does not =
scratch. Find Moroso Engine Cleaning Brush Sets 61820

________________________________
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Reihing, Rand=
all S. <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, December 3, 2016 11:48 PM
To: Bill Brewer; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages

Bill,

Randall S.

     So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4=
. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They cl=
eaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the smal=
l end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8 b=
rass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded i=
t in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and rust=
 poured out. The hole is about 0.180" diameter. I've been trying to find a =
long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better, but=
 no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5" long and the =
longest that McMaster Carr has is 3". I could pull the small end bushings o=
ut and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there fit the wrist pin=
s perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can help it.

     I have been considering buying a 12" long 3/16ths (.188") drill bit an=
d running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which might=
 not be a bad thing.

     TIA,

     Bill Brewer

     Tehachapi, CA

--_000_DM3PR19MB066529D64733691EC642268FBA800DM3PR19MB0665namp_
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<p>Something like this work?</p>
<p>Marty</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><a class=3D"OWAAutoLink" id=3D"LPlnk728784" href=3D"https://www.summitra=
cing.com/parts/mor-61820/overview/" previewremoved=3D"true">https://www.sum=
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<a id=3D"LPImageAnchor_14808544698010.4868103164455819" style=3D"text-align=
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gb(102, 102, 102); line-height: 20px; overflow: hidden; font-family: &quot;=
wf_segoe-ui_normal&quot;,&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,&quot;Segoe WP&quot;,Tahoma,A=
rial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-weight: 400; display: block; max-hei=
ght: 100px;">
Find Moroso Engine Cleaning Brush Sets 61820 and get Free Shipping on Order=
s Over $99 at Summit Racing! It's important to have a clean block, especial=
ly in the critical, hard-to-reach areas of the oiling system. Each of the b=
rushes in these Moroso engine cleaning
 brush sets is designed for a specific purpose. They can be used on cranksh=
aft oil holes, cylinder heads, etc. Their bristles are made of nylon, which=
 cleans as well as wire but does not scratch. Find Moroso Engine Cleaning B=
rush Sets 61820</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<br>
<br>
<p></p>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Calib=
ri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumphs=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Reihing, Randall S. &lt;Randall.Re=
[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 3, 2016 11:48 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Bill Brewer; [email-masked]<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div style=3D"direction:ltr; font-family:Tahoma; color:#000000; font-size:1=
0pt">Bill,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Where I used to work we often fabricated extensions to small brushes l=
ike that by TIG welding an extension to the end. Sometimes the extension wa=
s simply fused to the end of the brush's shaft with no rod used. Could you =
braze or silver solder an extension
 on?&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Randall S.&nbsp;<br>
<div style=3D"font-family:Times New Roman; color:#000000; font-size:16px">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRpF518558" style=3D"direction:ltr"><font color=3D"#000000" fa=
ce=3D"Tahoma" size=3D"2"><b>From:</b> Triumphs [[email-masked]=
.net] on behalf of Bill Brewer [[email-masked]]<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages<br>
</font><br>
</div>
<div></div>
<div>
<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0pt; font-family: &quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;; font-size: 11pt;">
<font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 M=
organ Plus 4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for deca=
des. They cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the
 connecting rod to the small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a t=
ool out of a piece of 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a=
 screwdriver, and pounded it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It g=
ot the hole opened and rust poured
 out. The hole is about 0.180&#8221; diameter. I&#8217;ve been trying to fi=
nd a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better=
, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5&#8221; lo=
ng and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3&#8221;. I
 could pull the small end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the=
 bushings in there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess=
 them up if I can help it.</span></font></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0pt; font-family: &quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;; font-size: 11pt;">
<font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have been considering buying a 12&#8221; long 3/16ths (.=
188&#8221;) drill bit and running that through. It might open up the hole a=
 little bit, which might not be a bad thing.</span></font></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0pt; font-family: &quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;; font-size: 11pt;">
<font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</=
span></font></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0pt; font-family: &quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;; font-size: 11pt;">
<font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><a id=3D=
"LPlnk321408" style=3D"color: blue; text-decoration: underline;" href=3D"ht=
tp://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Dr=
ill-Bit/74680.uts" target=3D"_blank" previewremoved=3D"true">http://www.tru=
evalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/7468=
0.uts</a></span></font></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0pt; font-family: &quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;; font-size: 11pt;">
<font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</=
span></font></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0pt; font-family: &quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;; font-size: 11pt;">
<font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Has anybody else been here? How did you get by this?</span=
></font></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0pt; font-family: &quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;; font-size: 11pt;">
<font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; TIA,</span></font></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0pt; font-family: &quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;; font-size: 11pt;">
<font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</=
span></font></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0pt; font-family: &quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;; font-size: 11pt;">
<font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Bill Brewer</span></font></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0pt; font-family: &quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;; font-size: 11pt;">
<font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Tehachapi, CA</span></font></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0pt; font-family: &quot;Calibri&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;; font-size: 11pt;">
<font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</=
span></font></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>

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---

From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2016 06:46:23 -0700

--===============7335593462973883924==

--001a11416e3ea0f6d40542d56595
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Or perhaps (as you mention) a pipe cleaner.  They are commonly sold in 12"
lengths as a craft item.  This is the Amazon listing but places like
Michaels probably have a selection.

http://tinyurl.com/j9crgos

Geo

On Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 7:48 PM, Bill Brewer <[email-masked]> wrote:

>      So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus
> 4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They
> cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the
> small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of
> 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and
> pounded it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole open=
ed
> and rust poured out. The hole is about 0.180=E2=80=9D diameter. I=E2=80=
=99ve been trying to
> find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out
> better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5=
=E2=80=9D
> long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3=E2=80=9D. I could pull t=
he small
> end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there f=
it
> the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can hel=
p
> it.
>
>      I have been considering buying a 12=E2=80=9D long 3/16ths (.188=E2=
=80=9D) drill bit
> and running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which
> might not be a bad thing.
>
>
>
> http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-
> Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts
>
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>

--001a11416e3ea0f6d40542d56595
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Or perhaps (as you mention) a pipe cleaner.=C2=A0 The=
y are commonly sold in 12&quot; lengths as a craft item.=C2=A0 This is the =
Amazon listing but places like Michaels probably have a selection.</div><di=
v><br></div><div><a href=3D"http://tinyurl.com/j9crgos">http://tinyurl.com/=
j9crgos</a></div><div><br></div><div>Geo<br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail=
_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 7:48 PM, Bill=
 Brewer <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" tar=
get=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid=
;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" vlink=3D"purple" link=3D"blue"><div =
class=3D"m_-430726669600274146WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font fa=
ce=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0 So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus=
 4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They =
cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the sm=
all end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8=
 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded=
 it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and ru=
st poured out. The hole is about 0.180=E2=80=9D diameter. I=E2=80=99ve been=
 trying to find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean th=
em out better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be abou=
t 5=E2=80=9D long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3=E2=80=9D. I c=
ould pull the small end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the b=
ushings in there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess t=
hem up if I can help it.<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNorm=
al"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I have been considering buying a 12=E2=80=9D long 3/16th=
s (.188=E2=80=9D) drill bit and running that through. It might open up the =
hole a little bit, which might not be a bad thing.<u></u><u></u></span></fo=
nt></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=
=3D"font-size:12pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt"><a h=
ref=3D"http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point=
-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts" target=3D"_blank">http://www.truevalue.com/<wbr=
>product/3-16-x-12-In-High-<wbr>Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-<wbr>Bit/7468=
0.uts</a><u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font face=
=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u>=
</span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3">=
<span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Has anybody else be=
en here? How did you get by this?<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:1=
2pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 TIA,<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:1=
2pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font fac=
e=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0 Bill Brewer<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><f=
ont face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0 Tehachapi, CA<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt"><u><=
/u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></font></p></div></div><br><br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> *=
*<br>
<br>
=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/donate.<wbr>html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"n=
oreferrer">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
hs/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/<wbr>options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@<wbr>gmail.com</a><br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2016 09:18:47 -0500

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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If I were to use a drill, I think I would try a slightly undersize bit. Rust
usually breaks up fairly easily but removing original material might be a
lot to ask a full size, generic bit to do at such a length. I would dread
the thought of a drill bit breaking of in the hole. I think there would be
less chance of breakage with a slightly undersize drill.

Alex Thomson 

From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Bill
Brewer
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages

     So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4.
The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They
cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the
small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of
1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and
pounded it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened
and rust poured out. The hole is about 0.180" diameter. I've been trying to
find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out
better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5"
long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3". I could pull the small
end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there fit
the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can help
it.

     I have been considering buying a 12" long 3/16ths (.188") drill bit and
running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which might
not be a bad thing.

http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-D
rill-Bit/74680.uts

     TIA,

     Bill Brewer

     Tehachapi, CA

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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>If I were to use a drill, I think I would try a =
slightly undersize bit. Rust usually breaks up fairly easily but =
removing original material might be a lot to ask a full size, generic =
bit to do at such a length. I would dread the thought of a drill bit =
breaking of in the hole. I think there would be less chance of breakage =
with a slightly undersize drill.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Alex Thomson =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid =
#B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Bill Brewer<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> [TR] Opening =
Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; So I am rebuilding a =
Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4. The connecting rods =
have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They cleaned up nicely, =
but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the small end bushings =
were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8 brass welding =
rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded it in while =
turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and rust poured =
out. The hole is about 0.180&#8221; diameter. I&#8217;ve been trying to =
find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out =
better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about =
5&#8221; long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3&#8221;. I =
could pull the small end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but =
the bushings in there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather =
not mess them up if I can help it.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have been =
considering buying a 12&#8221; long 3/16ths (.188&#8221;) drill bit and =
running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which =
might not be a bad thing.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><a =
href=3D"http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Po=
int-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts">http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12=
-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts</a><o:p></o:p></span=
></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Has anybody else =
been here? How did you get by this?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
TIA,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Bill =
Brewer<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Tehachapi, =
CA<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div></body></htm=
l>
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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2016 09:30:29 -0500

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I guess I wonder why you want to use something that is rusted and =
possibly the entire length of the hole might be rusted. How can you =
assure you=E2=80=99ll get all of the rust cleaned and that small bits =
won=E2=80=99t break loose later? I=E2=80=99d be looking for good =
replacements.=20

From: Geo Hahn=20
Sent: Sunday, December 4, 2016 8:46 AM
To: Bill Brewer=20
Cc: Triumphs=20
Subject: Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages

Or perhaps (as you mention) a pipe cleaner.  They are commonly sold in =
12" lengths as a craft item.  This is the Amazon listing but places like =
Michaels probably have a selection.

Geo

On Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 7:48 PM, Bill Brewer <[email-masked]> =
wrote:

       So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan =
Plus 4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for =
decades. They cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the =
connecting rod to the small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a =
tool out of a piece of 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, =
like a screwdriver, and pounded it in while turning with a small =
Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and rust poured out. The hole is =
about 0.180=E2=80=9D diameter. I=E2=80=99ve been trying to find a long =
3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better, but =
no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5=E2=80=9D =
long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3=E2=80=9D. I could pull =
the small end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings =
in there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them =
up if I can help it.

       I have been considering buying a 12=E2=80=9D long 3/16ths =
(.188=E2=80=9D) drill bit and running that through. It might open up the =
hole a little bit, which might not be a bad thing.

  =
http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Stee=
l-Drill-Bit/74680.uts

       TIA,

       Bill Brewer

       Tehachapi, CA

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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>I guess I wonder why you want to use something that is rusted and =
possibly=20
the entire length of the hole might be rusted. How can you assure =
you=E2=80=99ll get all=20
of the rust cleaned and that small bits won=E2=80=99t break loose later? =
I=E2=80=99d be looking=20
for good replacements. </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]>Geo=20
Hahn</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, December 4, 2016 8:46 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]>Bill Brewer</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=[email-masked]>Triumphs</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil=20
Passages</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV>Or perhaps (as you mention) a pipe cleaner.&nbsp; They are commonly =
sold in=20
12" lengths as a craft item.&nbsp; This is the Amazon listing but places =
like=20
Michaels probably have a selection.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><A =
href=3D"http://tinyurl.com/j9crgos">http://tinyurl.com/j9crgos</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Geo<BR></DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_extra>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 7:48 PM, Bill Brewer =
<SPAN=20
dir=3Dltr>&lt;<A target=3D_blank>[email-masked]</A>&gt;</SPAN> =
wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px =
0px 0.8ex">
  <DIV lang=3DEN-US link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple">
  <DIV class=3Dm_-430726669600274146WordSection1>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; So I am rebuilding =
a Standard=20
  Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4. The connecting rods have =
been laying=20
  on a shed floor for decades. They cleaned up nicely, but the oiling =
hole=20
  through the connecting rod to the small end bushings were all rusted =
solid. I=20
  made a tool out of a piece of 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end =
flat,=20
  like a screwdriver, and pounded it in while turning with a small =
Vise-grips.=20
  It got the hole opened and rust poured out. The hole is about =
0.180=E2=80=9D diameter.=20
  I=E2=80=99ve been trying to find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a =
pipe cleaner) to=20
  clean them out better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush =
needs to be=20
  about 5=E2=80=9D long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is =
3=E2=80=9D. I could pull the=20
  small end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings =
in there=20
  fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I =
can help=20
  it.<U></U><U></U></SPAN></FONT></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have been =
considering=20
  buying a 12=E2=80=9D long 3/16ths (.188=E2=80=9D) drill bit and =
running that through. It might=20
  open up the hole a little bit, which might not be a bad=20
  thing.<U></U><U></U></SPAN></FONT></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><U></U><U></U></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri><SPAN =
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Po=
int-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts"=20
  =
target=3D_blank>http://www.truevalue.com/<WBR>product/3-16-x-12-In-High-<=
WBR>Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-<WBR>Bit/74680.uts</A><U></U><U></U></S=
PAN></FONT></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><U></U><U></U></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Has anybody else =
been here?=20
  How did you get by this?<U></U><U></U></SPAN></FONT></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  TIA,<U></U><U></U></SPAN></FONT></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><U></U><U></U></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Bill=20
  Brewer<U></U><U></U></SPAN></FONT></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Tehachapi,=20
  CA<U></U><U></U></SPAN></FONT></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT size=3D3 face=3DCalibri><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
12pt"><U></U><U></U></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</P></DIV></DIV><BR><BR></BLOCKQU=
OTE></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: Don Hiscock <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2016 09:04:49 -0600

--===============1110914894374265994==

--94eb2c07280249fc350542d67fe7
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I'd probably soak them in Evapo-Rust for a few days or a week before doing
anything, to see how bad (or good) they are under the corrosion.

ed
=99ve been trying to
=E2=80=9D
he small
it
p
=80=9D) drill bit
> options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>

--94eb2c07280249fc350542d67fe7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;d probably soak them in Evapo-Rust for a few days or=
 a week before doing anything, to see how bad (or good) they are under the =
corrosion.</div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">O=
n Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 8:48 PM, Bill Brewer <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 =
0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" l=
ink=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple"><div class=3D"m_2650904662027231342WordSectio=
n1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D=
"font-size:12.0pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 So I am rebuilding a Standard V=
anguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4. The connecting rods have been layi=
ng on a shed floor for decades. They cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole=
 through the connecting rod to the small end bushings were all rusted solid=
. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end =
flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded it in while turning with a small Vise=
-grips. It got the hole opened and rust poured out. The hole is about 0.180=
=E2=80=9D diameter. I=E2=80=99ve been trying to find a long 3/16ths tube br=
ush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better, but no one makes one lo=
ng enough. The brush needs to be about 5=E2=80=9D long and the longest that=
 McMaster Carr has is 3=E2=80=9D. I could pull the small end bushings out a=
nd go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there fit the wrist pins pe=
rfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can help it.<u></u><u></u>=
</span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri">=
<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I have been consi=
dering buying a 12=E2=80=9D long 3/16ths (.188=E2=80=9D) drill bit and runn=
ing that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which might not b=
e a bad thing.<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font =
size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<=
u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Cal=
ibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><a>http://www.truevalue.com/<wbr>pro=
duct/3-16-x-12-In-High-<wbr>Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-<wbr>Bit/74680.ut=
s</a><u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3=
" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></s=
pan></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><sp=
an style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Has anybody else bee=
n here? How did you get by this?<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0=
pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 TIA,<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:1=
2.0pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font s=
ize=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0 Bill Brewer<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"=
><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Tehachapi, CA<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0=
pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></font></p></div></div><br><br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> *=
*<br>
<br>
a>.<wbr>html<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archiv=
e</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</=
a><br>
.team.net/mailman/</a><wbr>options/triumphs/don.hiscock@<wbr><a href=3D"htt=
p://gmail.com">gmail.com</a><br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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From: "Reihing, Randall S." <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2016 15:23:29 +0000

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No matter how the passages are cleaned out and opened up, patience and a li=
ght touch is key. Assuming the oil passages are in straight lines, I would =
suggest initially foregoing any powered attempts to clean out those passage=
s using tools that are as highly tempered and hardened as drill bits, etc. =
 An extended length 4-6 flute reamer with straight flutes, favored over tap=
ered reamers for this application, available from any machine tool supply h=
ouse or catalogs like McMaster-Carr might be a better choice than a drill. =
I would prefer a series of extended length straight flute reamers in this a=
pplication. Reamers are not designed to pull themselves deeper into the mat=
erial they are used in, but rather to enlarge an existing opening. Once the=
 passage has opened, a reamer will be very effective at removing rust, corr=
osion and even original material but far less likely to break than a drill =
bit. If a drill bit is used, extra long aircraft drill bits are available f=
rom the above sources and can be mounted in a hand held drill chuck and app=
lied by hand, reducing the chance of breaking but even in that method I wou=
ld not use a drill bit if the passage were open. I would still much prefer =
using 2-3 reamers of various diameters close to each other in O.D. starting=
 with one close to the same rough diameter of the existing passage and care=
fully work up from there. Patience and a light touch is key.

Once those rods have their oil passages cleaned out it might be worthwhile =
talking them to a motor rebuilding shop to have them properly evaluated for=
 wear and condition. A well equipped shop will have a dedicated machine to =
test and evaluate each rod in addition to using hand micrometers to measure=
 each rod end opening. This way each rod can be checked for length being wi=
thin accepted tolerance plus any indication of very slight twist and/or ang=
le deformity that might not be visible to the naked eye.

I did this with a Ford V6 engine I recently totally overhauled starting wit=
h a bare block and a new crankshaft and discovered two of the original 6 ro=
ds were outside their tolerance range in at least one of their specificatio=
ns. Unless you have a lot of experience using precision ID and OD micromete=
rs and have a granite plate it might be worth your time to have a dedicated=
, well equipped, engine rebuilding business check each rod for you. The las=
t thing you want to end up with is an assembled engine that has a slightly =
misaligned rod or one out of wear tolerance, inside.

Good luck on the rebuild.

Randall S.

________________________________
From: Triumphs [[email-masked]] on behalf of Alex&Janet Th=
omson [[email-masked]]
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2016 9:18 AM
To: 'Bill Brewer'; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages

If I were to use a drill, I think I would try a slightly undersize bit. Rus=
t usually breaks up fairly easily but removing original material might be a=
 lot to ask a full size, generic bit to do at such a length. I would dread =
the thought of a drill bit breaking of in the hole. I think there would be =
less chance of breakage with a slightly undersize drill.

Alex Thomson
From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Bill B=
rewer
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

--_000_5DF59F06A5E05E47A21C0E72057265D9016FB83FE5msgdb11utadut_
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">
<div style=3D"direction: ltr;font-family: Tahoma;color: #000000;font-size: =
10pt;">No matter how the passages are cleaned out and opened up, patience a=
nd a light touch is key. Assuming the oil passages are in straight lines, I=
 would suggest initially foregoing
 any powered attempts to clean out those passages using tools that are as h=
ighly tempered and hardened as drill bits, etc. &nbsp;An extended length 4-=
6 flute reamer with straight flutes, favored over tapered reamers for this =
application, available from any machine
 tool supply house or catalogs like McMaster-Carr might be a better choice =
than a drill. I would prefer a series of extended length straight flute rea=
mers in this application. Reamers are not designed to pull themselves deepe=
r into the material they are used
 in, but rather to enlarge an existing opening. Once the passage has opened=
, a reamer will be very effective at removing rust, corrosion and even orig=
inal material but far less likely to break than a drill bit. If a drill bit=
 is used, extra long aircraft drill
 bits are available from the above sources and can be mounted in a hand hel=
d drill chuck and applied by hand, reducing the chance of breaking but even=
 in that method I would not use a drill bit if the passage were open. I wou=
ld still much prefer using 2-3 reamers
 of various diameters close to each other in O.D. starting with one close t=
o the same rough diameter of the existing passage and carefully work up fro=
m there. Patience and a light touch is key.&nbsp;
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Once those rods have their oil passages cleaned out it might be worthw=
hile talking them to a motor rebuilding shop to have them properly evaluate=
d for wear and condition. A well equipped shop will have a dedicated machin=
e to test and evaluate each rod
 in addition to using hand micrometers to measure each rod end opening. Thi=
s way each rod can be checked for length being within accepted tolerance pl=
us any indication of very slight twist and/or angle deformity that might no=
t be visible to the naked eye. &nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I did this with a Ford V6 engine I recently totally overhauled startin=
g with a bare block and a new crankshaft and discovered two of the original=
 6 rods were outside their tolerance range in at least one of their specifi=
cations. Unless you have a lot of
 experience using precision ID and OD micrometers and have a granite plate =
it might be worth your time to have a dedicated, well equipped, engine rebu=
ilding business check each rod for you. The last thing you want to end up w=
ith is an assembled engine that
 has a slightly misaligned rod or one out of wear tolerance, inside. &nbsp;=
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Good luck on the rebuild.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Randall S.<br>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<div style=3D"font-family: Times New Roman; color: #000000; font-size: 16px=
">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRpF705520" style=3D"direction: ltr;"><font face=3D"Tahoma" si=
ze=3D"2" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Triumphs [[email-masked]=
am.net] on behalf of Alex&amp;Janet Thomson [[email-masked]]<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 04, 2016 9:18 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Bill Brewer'; [email-masked]<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages<br>
</font><br>
</div>
<div></div>
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<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">If I were to use a dri=
ll, I think I would try a slightly undersize bit. Rust usually breaks up fa=
irly easily but removing original material might be a lot to ask a full siz=
e, generic bit to do at such a length.
 I would dread the thought of a drill bit breaking of in the hole. I think =
there would be less chance of breakage with a slightly undersize drill.</sp=
an></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">Alex Thomson </span></=
p>
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n 0in 0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt; font-family:&quo=
t;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;">From:</span></b><span style=3D"font-=
size:10.0pt; font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;"> Triump=
hs [mailto:[email-masked]]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Bill Brewer<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages</span></p>
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<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp; So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus =
4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They c=
leaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting
 rod to the small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of =
a piece of 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdrive=
r, and pounded it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole=
 opened and rust poured out. The
 hole is about 0.180=94 diameter. I=92ve been trying to find a long 3/16ths=
 tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better, but no one make=
s one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5=94 long and the longest th=
at McMaster Carr has is 3=94. I could pull
 the small end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings i=
n there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if=
 I can help it.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp; I have been considering buying a 12=94 long 3/16ths (.188=94) drill b=
it and running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which =
might not be a bad thing.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><a href=3D"http://w=
ww.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bi=
t/74680.uts" target=3D"_blank">http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-I=
n-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts</a></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp; Has anybody else been here? How did you get by this?</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp; TIA,</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp; Bill Brewer</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp; Tehachapi, CA</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">&nbsp;</span></p>
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