Subject: Re: [TR] Success

From: Dean Tetterton <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2016 09:50:05 -0400

I had those two bolts come loose on the TR4 race car. one came out and caught the flywheel and bent as it was pulled out. Banged around until ejected out the cover plate. Those now have red loctite on them.

Dean T.  

On Aug 21, 2016, at 10:56 PM, anabil007 wrote:

> There are two 1 1/2 inch Allen screws holding the adaptor mounting plate to the body of the starter. They are 180 degrees apart. Some how the lower one on the TR3 was gone!
> After we wrestled the starter out (you have to remove the carbs), cleaned everything up and installed new Allen screws they were a little longer, dremeled the body to make a flat space for locking nuts, those screws are not going anywhere, now came the hard part, getting it back in the car, new grade eight bolts and locking nuts.
> We wanted to have the nuts on the engine side, so we had to improvise a way to get them positioned, magnets, bailing wire, and luck got them how we wanted.
> Buttoned everything up, reinstalled carbs ... Every thing is good ... For now.
> Hope to see you folks at Triumphest.
> 
> Be Well
> Bill Pugh
> Wallace, CA
> 
> 
> 
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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2016 10:03:31 -0700

> After we wrestled the starter out (you have to remove the carbs), 

FWIW, mine comes out without removing either carb.  I installed a Helicoil
in the bellhousing for the upper starter bolt, so it can be removed and
replaced using a long extension, swivel socket and magnetic insert.
(This shot taken without the heat shield, but same approach works with
shield in place.)
http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/TS13571L/DSCF0056-1.jpg.htm
l

http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/TS13571L/DSCF0059.jpg.html

I do have a TR6 gearbox with the thicker flange, but I believe the same
approach would work with the thinner TR3 flange.

The starter itself can be removed through the bottom, after removing the
cables, by twisting it around and prying the motor over just a bit on its
mounts.

Also, a 1/4 drive swivel socket and extension makes the rear carb a lot
easier to remove (when necessary).
http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/TS13571L/DSCF0018.jpg.html

Randall

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From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2016 14:11:33 -0700

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I tapped the bolt holes 3/8 course thread. Screwd in 2.5incj bolts with
locktite. Makes putting the motor in a snap. Nuts on the inside of course.

On Aug 22, 2016 4:40 AM, "anabil007" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> There are two 1 1/2 inch Allen screws holding the adaptor mounting plate
> to the body of the starter. They are 180 degrees apart. Some how the lower
> one on the TR3 was gone!
> After we wrestled the starter out (you have to remove the carbs), cleaned
> everything up and installed new Allen screws they were a little longer,
> dremeled the body to make a flat space for locking nuts, those screws are
> not going anywhere, now came the hard part, getting it back in the car, new
> grade eight bolts and locking nuts.
> We wanted to have the nuts on the engine side, so we had to improvise a
> way to get them positioned, magnets, bailing wire, and luck got them how we
> wanted.
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<p dir=3D"ltr">I tapped the bolt holes 3/8 course thread. Screwd in 2.5incj=
 bolts with locktite. Makes putting the motor in a snap. Nuts on the inside=
 of course.</p>
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Aug 22, 2016 4=
:40 AM, &quot;anabil007&quot; &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br type=3D"attribution"><blockquote cl=
ass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;p=
adding-left:1ex">There are two 1 1/2 inch Allen screws holding the adaptor =
mounting plate to the body of the starter. They are 180 degrees apart. Some=
 how the lower one on the TR3 was gone!<br>
After we wrestled the starter out (you have to remove the carbs), cleaned e=
verything up and installed new Allen screws they were a little longer, drem=
eled the body to make a flat space for locking nuts, those screws are not g=
oing anywhere, now came the hard part, getting it back in the car, new grad=
e eight bolts and locking nuts.<br>
We wanted to have the nuts on the engine side, so we had to improvise a way=
 to get them positioned, magnets, bailing wire, and luck got them how we wa=
nted.<br>
Buttoned everything up, reinstalled carbs ... Every thing is good ... For n=
ow.<br>
Hope to see you folks at Triumphest.<br>
<br>
Be Well<br>
Bill Pugh<br>
Wallace, CA<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> *=
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et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.<wbr>html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
hs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/<wbr>options/triumphs/triosan@<wbr>gmail.com</a><br>
</blockquote></div></div>

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2016 16:10:27 -0700

Oops, sorry, link got cut off.  This one should work
http://tinyurl.com/hqhsd5y

-- Randall