Subject: [TR] OD Transmission problem - suggestions?

From: Rye Livingston <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 18 May 2016 16:44:43 +0000 (GMT) MailServer16C185.25034-16A-888-23ed09b22b5b t=1463589888; bh=h+ag4pNSY3ofN5ic+PTxGmz74nX5FZhyKOVJHf15xWQ=; h=MIME-version:Content-type:To:From:Subject:Date:Message-id; b=q0jl17GyNx+L/k8SijLWDGXszGjYbFkmXTd9t5CHSRUu83qoz+NNtDEtqnZyKs4sx HIlR7S8sjwHRC9ik7qETXOVLMSJZo3iUvaIUYGxuxzTuiGJvKK2dQGE+Z9Sgfb3b7v X8BZoDR+OI4m9674NK2GNCLk2DA+HlHQk2xfgOnFNNPqqSF49FgaAd1LBtfR9Om/0q gUbuynfVs0QC8di9fuz6kaGLU4D8GkuEzERGM2dLS6qH/e6DbLpaN8tPRU6cHwtJZl 7Kcfp3HnZu9v/E3MT2hpo1HknI6BpaDENPCMdzIxTrOa2mRkRtqTCE4a5yBTGxaU6k TGSUTAn+WDc8A==

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My rebuilt engine, now with Hastings Rings, is running great. =C2=A0This p=
ast weekend, the Triumph Travelers had a North County drive up around Sono=
ma, along the coast through Tamales Bay, Bodega Bay and all around. =C2=A0=
440 miles over two days.=0A=0ANow the problem=0AWhen I rebuilt the engine =
I also purchased an OD transmission and had it rebuilt. =C2=A0I think I wr=
ote about this before so I apologize, but I'm dropping off my car with Bri=
tish Motorsports later today, who rebuilt the transmission, and they are g=
oing to try and figure out the problem.=0A=0ASince day one, it will shift =
into OD only when letting up on the gas or coasting. =C2=A0If I'm accelera=
ting it will not shift into OD until I let up on the gas. =C2=A0Once in OD=
 and am cruising along, especially in 2nd or 3rd gear, if I punch it, it w=
ill drop out of OD just like an automatic transmission. =C2=A0Then when I =
let up, it will shift back into OD. =C2=A0Obviously doing this under incre=
ased load or torque. =C2=A0It will also do it in 4th gear, just not as eas=
ily. =C2=A0, just not as easily. =C2=A0When getting to a hill and I start =
to accelerate quite a bit, it will downshift out of OD. =C2=A0Then crest t=
he hill and let up, and it will shift back into OD.=0A=0AA few weeks ago I=
 dropped the car off with British Motorsports so they could diagnose the p=
roblem and the hydraulic pump is over 400psi, the clutch is not slipping, =
the solenoids are working fine.=0A=0AI know there will be a lot of suggest=
ions which I plan to forward the emails to them, and am hoping there will =
be something they haven't checked yet.=0A=0AThanks,=0A=0ARye=0A=0APS: For =
those of you who are at all curious, we had 16 Triumphs on the drive. =C2=A0=
Here is a link to the photos I took.=0Ahttps://share.shutterfly.com/share/=
received/welcome.sfly?fid=3Db94161b565006033&sid=3D0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs=0A=C2=A0=
=0A=

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<html><body><div>My rebuilt engine, now with Hastings Rings, is running great. &nbsp;T=
his past weekend, the Triumph Travelers had a North County drive up around=
 Sonoma, along the coast through Tamales Bay, Bodega Bay and all around. &=
nbsp;440 miles over two days.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><di=
v>Now the problem</div><div>When I rebuilt the engine I also purchased an =
OD transmission and had it rebuilt. &nbsp;I think I wrote about this befor=
e so I apologize, but I'm dropping off my car with British Motorsports lat=
er today, who rebuilt the transmission, and they are going to try and figu=
re out the problem.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Since da=
y one, it will shift into OD only when letting up on the gas or coasting. =
&nbsp;If I'm accelerating it will not shift into OD until I let up on the =
gas. &nbsp;Once in OD and am cruising along, especially in 2nd or 3rd gear=
, if I punch it, it will drop out of OD just like an automatic transmissio=
n. &nbsp;Then when I let up, it will shift back into OD. &nbsp;Obviously d=
oing this under increased load or torque. &nbsp;It will also do it in 4th =
gear, just not as easily. &nbsp;, just not as easily. &nbsp;When getting t=
o a hill and I start to accelerate quite a bit, it will downshift out of O=
D. &nbsp;Then crest the hill and let up, and it will shift back into OD.</=
div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>A few weeks ago I dropped the=
 car off with British Motorsports so they could diagnose the problem and t=
he hydraulic pump is over 400psi, the clutch is not slipping, the solenoid=
s are working fine.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>I know t=
here will be a lot of suggestions which I plan to forward the emails to th=
em, and am hoping there will be something they haven't checked yet.</div><=
div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Thanks,</div><div><br data-mce-bog=
us=3D"1"></div><div>Rye</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>PS: =
For those of you who are at all curious, we had 16 Triumphs on the drive. =
&nbsp;Here is a link to the photos I took.</div><div><a href=3D"https://sh=
are.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=3Db94161b565006033&amp;=
sid=3D0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs">https://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome=
.sfly?fid=3Db94161b565006033&amp;sid=3D0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs</a></div><div>&nbsp=
;<br></div></body></html>=

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: ptegler <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 18 May 2016 15:46:29 -0400

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which O/D?  (LH, A, D, J?)

400lbs is not 'high'.... spec vs what works best vary ...let alone what 
actually works correctly vs the condition of the springs

At a minimum on j types.... unless you have it under full load there is 
no way to validate the Annulus clutch (outer ring of the planetary gear 
assy) is not slipping.

Not slipping in to O/D I'd look at oil level and viscosity. Some say 
80-90 Castrol Hypoy (servie manual) many rebuilders switch to 
non-detergent straight 30WT. BOTH are very close to the same viscosity, 
its the additives that are different. I've seen synthetic work great, 
and have seen disasters using syn.  PAYOR .   when I put one together 
(10? 15 now?) , I usually will use 90wt (as my user manual specs) DO NOT 
use the 'smelly' stuff...the sulphur will eat the yellow metal.

Interlock switch on top? first place I'd check. Only takes a little flex 
to have the lever NOT flip the interlock switch correctly......

In most cases (if installed) simply removing the fiber washer between 
switch and case (no fear it won't leak), will extend the push button tip 
far enough into the case to activate correctly. Often the washer is too 
thick, so push button throw position is slightly off, and even the 
button tip worn down so it does not activate as designed.

Also clean and dielectric grease every elec connection in the path 
(while you're in there.)

ptegler

On 5/18/2016 12:44 PM, Rye Livingston wrote:
> My rebuilt engine, now with Hastings Rings, is running great.  This 
> past weekend, the Triumph Travelers had a North County drive up around 
> Sonoma, along the coast through Tamales Bay, Bodega Bay and all 
> around.  440 miles over two days.
>
> Now the problem
> When I rebuilt the engine I also purchased an OD transmission and had 
> it rebuilt.  I think I wrote about this before so I apologize, but I'm 
> dropping off my car with British Motorsports later today, who rebuilt 
> the transmission, and they are going to try and figure out the problem.
>
> Since day one, it will shift into OD only when letting up on the gas 
> or coasting.  If I'm accelerating it will not shift into OD until I 
> let up on the gas.  Once in OD and am cruising along, especially in 
> 2nd or 3rd gear, if I punch it, it will drop out of OD just like an 
> automatic transmission.  Then when I let up, it will shift back into 
> OD.  Obviously doing this under increased load or torque.  It will 
> also do it in 4th gear, just not as easily.  , just not as easily. 
>  When getting to a hill and I start to accelerate quite a bit, it will 
> downshift out of OD.  Then crest the hill and let up, and it will 
> shift back into OD.
>
> A few weeks ago I dropped the car off with British Motorsports so they 
> could diagnose the problem and the hydraulic pump is over 400psi, the 
> clutch is not slipping, the solenoids are working fine.
>
> I know there will be a lot of suggestions which I plan to forward the 
> emails to them, and am hoping there will be something they haven't 
> checked yet.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rye
>
> PS: For those of you who are at all curious, we had 16 Triumphs on the 
> drive.  Here is a link to the photos I took.
> https://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=b94161b565006033&sid=0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs
>
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

-- 
Paul Tegler [email-masked] www.teglerizer.com

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    <p>which O/D?  (LH, A, D, J?)</p>
    <p>400lbs is not 'high'.... spec vs what works best vary ...let
      alone what actually works correctly vs the condition of the
      springs<br>
    </p>
    <p>At a minimum on j types.... unless you have it under full load
      there is no way to validate the Annulus clutch (outer ring of the
      planetary gear assy) is not slipping.</p>
    <p>Not slipping in to O/D I'd look at oil level and viscosity. Some
      say 80-90 Castrol Hypoy (servie manual) many rebuilders switch to
      non-detergent straight 30WT. BOTH are very close to the same
      viscosity, its the additives that are different. I've seen
      synthetic work great, and have seen disasters using syn.  PAYOR
      .   when I put one together (10? 15 now?) , I usually will use
      90wt (as my user manual specs) DO NOT use the 'smelly' stuff...the
      sulphur will eat the yellow metal.<br>
    </p>
    <p>Interlock switch on top? first place I'd check. Only takes a
      little flex to have the lever NOT flip the interlock switch
      correctly......</p>
    <p>In most cases (if installed) simply removing the fiber washer
      between switch and case (no fear it won't leak), will extend the
      push button tip far enough into the case to activate correctly.
      Often the washer is too thick, so push button throw position is
      slightly off, and even the button tip worn down so it does not
      activate as designed.</p>
    <p>Also clean and dielectric grease every elec connection in the
      path (while you're in there.)</p>
    <p>ptegler<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/18/2016 12:44 PM, Rye Livingston
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <div>My rebuilt engine, now with Hastings Rings, is running great.
         This past weekend, the Triumph Travelers had a North County
        drive up around Sonoma, along the coast through Tamales Bay,
        Bodega Bay and all around.  440 miles over two days.</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>Now the problem</div>
      <div>When I rebuilt the engine I also purchased an OD transmission
        and had it rebuilt.  I think I wrote about this before so I
        apologize, but I'm dropping off my car with British Motorsports
        later today, who rebuilt the transmission, and they are going to
        try and figure out the problem.</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>Since day one, it will shift into OD only when letting up on
        the gas or coasting.  If I'm accelerating it will not shift into
        OD until I let up on the gas.  Once in OD and am cruising along,
        especially in 2nd or 3rd gear, if I punch it, it will drop out
        of OD just like an automatic transmission.  Then when I let up,
        it will shift back into OD.  Obviously doing this under
        increased load or torque.  It will also do it in 4th gear, just
        not as easily.  , just not as easily.  When getting to a hill
        and I start to accelerate quite a bit, it will downshift out of
        OD.  Then crest the hill and let up, and it will shift back into
        OD.</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>A few weeks ago I dropped the car off with British
        Motorsports so they could diagnose the problem and the hydraulic
        pump is over 400psi, the clutch is not slipping, the solenoids
        are working fine.</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>I know there will be a lot of suggestions which I plan to
        forward the emails to them, and am hoping there will be
        something they haven't checked yet.</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>Thanks,</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>Rye</div>
      <div><br data-mce-bogus="1">
      </div>
      <div>PS: For those of you who are at all curious, we had 16
        Triumphs on the drive.  Here is a link to the photos I took.</div>
      <div><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=b94161b565006033&amp;sid=0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs">https://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=b94161b565006033&amp;sid=0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs</a></div>
      <div> <br>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">
** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>
</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
      Paul Tegler
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.teglerizer.com">www.teglerizer.com</a>
    </div>
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From: Rye Livingston <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 18 May 2016 20:52:57 +0000 (GMT) MailServer16C185.25034-16A-888-23ed09b22b5b t=1463604778; bh=iAhgJn3vi3koOTWOiYei35hjd7TctF6TdMsnu1UKnwY=; h=MIME-version:Content-type:To:From:Subject:Date:Message-id; b=YiKSRakyhPPvv1uXk6u6VNIgu0xzajHEB0jEfjgBrmKeRXnOd2VGwQJ77kq9Bg2JS GOOf3V8fV1cmq+Rv3xDNcLbEcwpA6MdAexkcsgDBFYfdWOrLbV2YTYzM58E/UJSQwz hbk4rHV6Gymx5BlW6Bu+ei8w+mjG3NZ/xpKCiWu/BBzCajF7gcid6WMlPvp1CMql7d oUGUiMahJcIpZMVGljJ00b+2cu248b5yMjYfzLVFtAEI4AnK+BT6Pl5x7ITO8Dwe7W zqwekNh8xEw3VU8KZaciBhp2o4QLqklqKGLcHkoKn048cQmR0f2z3AdJvymOtn4G9x WQPh0Vg6aSqew==

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As I thought, this is way over my head. =C2=A0It's on a 1960 TR3. =C2=A0LH=
, A, D, J - I don't know.=0A=0AI was told speck is 450 psi and it's at spe=
c, other than that, again, I don't know.=0A=0AAs for the clutch in the OD,=
 he said they checked it and it's not slipping. =C2=A0Other than that, I d=
on't know.=0A=0AI was told to run 90w, that's what's in it.=0A=0AI'll pass=
 on the rest of this to British Motorsports as they will be diagnosing the=
 problem, and you may be talking about something they haven't tried.=0A=0A=
I appreciate the feedback.=0A=0ARye=0A=0A=0ARye=0APH: 530-FIND-RYE=0A=0AOn=
 May 18, 2016, at 12:46 PM, ptegler <[email-masked]> wrote:=0A=0Awhic=
h O/D?=C2=A0 (LH, A, D, J?)=0A400lbs is not 'high'.... spec vs what works =
best vary ...let alone what actually works correctly vs the condition of t=
he springs=0AAt a minimum on j types.... unless you have it under full loa=
d there is no way to validate the Annulus clutch (outer ring of the planet=
ary gear assy) is not slipping.=0ANot slipping in to O/D I'd look at oil l=
evel and viscosity. Some say 80-90 Castrol Hypoy (servie manual) many rebu=
ilders switch to non-detergent straight 30WT. BOTH are very close to the s=
ame viscosity, its the additives that are different. I've seen synthetic w=
ork great, and have seen disasters using syn.=C2=A0 PAYOR .=C2=A0=C2=A0 wh=
en I put one together (10? 15 now?) , I usually will use 90wt (as my user =
manual specs) DO NOT use the 'smelly' stuff...the sulphur will eat the yel=
low metal.=0AInterlock switch on top? first place I'd check. Only takes a =
little flex to have the lever NOT flip the interlock switch correctly.....=
.=0AIn most cases (if installed) simply removing the fiber washer between =
switch and case (no fear it won't leak), will extend the push button tip f=
ar enough into the case to activate correctly. Often the washer is too thi=
ck, so push button throw position is slightly off, and even the button tip=
 worn down so it does not activate as designed.=0AAlso clean and dielectri=
c grease every elec connection in the path (while you're in there.)=0Apteg=
ler=0A=0AOn 5/18/2016 12:44 PM, Rye Livingston wrote:=0AMy rebuilt engine,=
 now with Hastings Rings, is running great. =C2=A0This past weekend, the T=
riumph Travelers had a North County drive up around Sonoma, along the coas=
t through Tamales Bay, Bodega Bay and all around. =C2=A0440 miles over two=
 days.=0A=0ANow the problem=0AWhen I rebuilt the engine I also purchased a=
n OD transmission and had it rebuilt. =C2=A0I think I wrote about this bef=
ore so I apologize, but I'm dropping off my car with British Motorsports l=
ater today, who rebuilt the transmission, and they are going to try and fi=
gure out the problem.=0A=0ASince day one, it will shift into OD only when =
letting up on the gas or coasting. =C2=A0If I'm accelerating it will not s=
hift into OD until I let up on the gas. =C2=A0Once in OD and am cruising a=
long, especially in 2nd or 3rd gear, if I punch it, it will drop out of OD=
 just like an automatic transmission. =C2=A0Then when I let up, it will sh=
ift back into OD. =C2=A0Obviously doing this under increased load or torqu=
e. =C2=A0It will also do it in 4th gear, just not as easily. =C2=A0, just =
not as easily. =C2=A0When getting to a hill and I start to accelerate quit=
e a bit, it will downshift out of OD. =C2=A0Then crest the hill and let up=
, and it will shift back into OD.=0A=0AA few weeks ago I dropped the car o=
ff with British Motorsports so they could diagnose the problem and the hyd=
raulic pump is over 400psi, the clutch is not slipping, the solenoids are =
working fine.=0A=0AI know there will be a lot of suggestions which I plan =
to forward the emails to them, and am hoping there will be something they =
haven't checked yet.=0A=0AThanks,=0A=0ARye=0A=0APS: For those of you who a=
re at all curious, we had 16 Triumphs on the drive. =C2=A0Here is a link t=
o the photos I took.=0Ahttps://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome=
.sfly?fid=3Db94161b565006033&sid=3D0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs=0A=C2=A0=0A=0A=0A** tri=
[email-masked] **=0A=0ADonate: http://www.team.net/donate.html=0AArc=
hive: http://www.team.net/archive=0AForums: http://www.team.net/forums=0AU=
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@=
verizon.net=0A=0A-- =0APaul Tegler [email-masked] www.teglerizer.com=

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<html><body><div>As I thought, this is way over my head. &nbsp;It's on a 1960 TR3. &nb=
sp;LH, A, D, J - I don't know.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><d=
iv>I was told speck is 450 psi and it's at spec, other than that, again, I=
 don't know.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>As for the clut=
ch in the OD, he said they checked it and it's not slipping. &nbsp;Other t=
han that, I don't know.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>I wa=
s told to run 90w, that's what's in it.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"=
></div><div>I'll pass on the rest of this to British Motorsports as they w=
ill be diagnosing the problem, and you may be talking about something they=
 haven't tried.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>I appreciate=
 the feedback.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Rye</div><div=
><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div c=
lass=3D"x-apple-signature"><pre style=3D"font-family: 'SFNSText','Helvetic=
a Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap; wo=
rd-wrap: break-word;" data-mce-style=3D"font-family: 'SFNSText','Helvetica=
 Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap; wor=
d-wrap: break-word;">Rye=0APH: 530-FIND-RYE</pre></div><div><br>On May 18,=
 2016, at 12:46 PM, ptegler &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></di=
v><div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div class=3D"msg-quote" bgcolor=3D"#FFFF=
FF" text=3D"#000000"><p>which O/D?&nbsp; (LH, A, D, J?)</p><p>400lbs is no=
t 'high'.... spec vs what works best vary ...let alone what actually works=
 correctly vs the condition of the springs<br></p><p>At a minimum on j typ=
es.... unless you have it under full load there is no way to validate the =
Annulus clutch (outer ring of the planetary gear assy) is not slipping.</p=
><p>Not slipping in to O/D I'd look at oil level and viscosity. Some say 8=
0-90 Castrol Hypoy (servie manual) many rebuilders switch to non-detergent=
 straight 30WT. BOTH are very close to the same viscosity, its the additiv=
es that are different. I've seen synthetic work great, and have seen disas=
ters using syn.&nbsp; PAYOR .&nbsp;&nbsp; when I put one together (10? 15 =
now?) , I usually will use 90wt (as my user manual specs) DO NOT use the '=
smelly' stuff...the sulphur will eat the yellow metal.<br></p><p>Interlock=
 switch on top? first place I'd check. Only takes a little flex to have th=
e lever NOT flip the interlock switch correctly......</p><p>In most cases =
(if installed) simply removing the fiber washer between switch and case (n=
o fear it won't leak), will extend the push button tip far enough into the=
 case to activate correctly. Often the washer is too thick, so push button=
 throw position is slightly off, and even the button tip worn down so it d=
oes not activate as designed.</p><p>Also clean and dielectric grease every=
 elec connection in the path (while you're in there.)</p><p>ptegler<br></p=
><br><div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 5/18/2016 12:44 PM, Rye Livingston =
wrote:<br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>My rebuilt engine, now with=
 Hastings Rings, is running great. &nbsp;This past weekend, the Triumph Tr=
avelers had a North County drive up around Sonoma, along the coast through=
 Tamales Bay, Bodega Bay and all around. &nbsp;440 miles over two days.</d=
iv><div><br></div><div>Now the problem</div><div>When I rebuilt the engine=
 I also purchased an OD transmission and had it rebuilt. &nbsp;I think I w=
rote about this before so I apologize, but I'm dropping off my car with Br=
itish Motorsports later today, who rebuilt the transmission, and they are =
going to try and figure out the problem.</div><div><br></div><div>Since da=
y one, it will shift into OD only when letting up on the gas or coasting. =
&nbsp;If I'm accelerating it will not shift into OD until I let up on the =
gas. &nbsp;Once in OD and am cruising along, especially in 2nd or 3rd gear=
, if I punch it, it will drop out of OD just like an automatic transmissio=
n. &nbsp;Then when I let up, it will shift back into OD. &nbsp;Obviously d=
oing this under increased load or torque. &nbsp;It will also do it in 4th =
gear, just not as easily. &nbsp;, just not as easily. &nbsp;When getting t=
o a hill and I start to accelerate quite a bit, it will downshift out of O=
D. &nbsp;Then crest the hill and let up, and it will shift back into OD.</=
div><div><br></div><div>A few weeks ago I dropped the car off with British=
 Motorsports so they could diagnose the problem and the hydraulic pump is =
over 400psi, the clutch is not slipping, the solenoids are working fine.</=
div><div><br></div><div>I know there will be a lot of suggestions which I =
plan to forward the emails to them, and am hoping there will be something =
they haven't checked yet.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><div><br><=
/div><div>Rye</div><div><br></div><div>PS: For those of you who are at all=
 curious, we had 16 Triumphs on the drive. &nbsp;Here is a link to the pho=
tos I took.</div><div><a href=3D"https://share.shutterfly.com/share/receiv=
ed/welcome.sfly?fid=3Db94161b565006033&amp;sid=3D0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs" data-mce=
-href=3D"https://share.shutterfly.com/share/received/welcome.sfly?fid=3Db9=
4161b565006033&amp;sid=3D0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs">https://share.shutterfly.com/sha=
re/received/welcome.sfly?fid=3Db94161b565006033&amp;sid=3D0QaNmjFs2aMVFXs<=
/a></div><div>&nbsp;<br></div><br><fieldset class=3D"mimeAttachmentHeader"=
></fieldset><br><pre>** <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mail=
to:[email-masked]" data-mce-href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
t">[email-masked]</a> **=0A=0ADonate: <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-fr=
eetext" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" data-mce-href=3D"http://w=
ww.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>=0AArchive: <a=
 class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" data=
-mce-href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>=0A=
Forums: <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://www.team.net/for=
ums" data-mce-href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/foru=
ms</a>=0AUnsubscribe/Manage: <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]" data-mce=
-href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]=
t">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a>=0A=
</pre></blockquote><br><div class=3D"moz-signature">-- <br> Paul Tegler <a=
 class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" da=
ta-mce-href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> <a clas=
s=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"http://www.teglerizer.com" data-mce=
-href=3D"http://www.teglerizer.com">www.teglerizer.com</a></div></div></bl=
ockquote></div></body></html>=

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 19 May 2016 05:53:53 -0700

Almost certainly an A-type, as that is the only type fitted as original.
Very slim chance someone fitted a J-type along with a later gearbox, but not
likely.  I guess anything is possible (I once saw a Spitfire with a 426 Hemi
under the hood), but you'd have to be slightly crazy to put a LH or D type
behind a TRactor motor.

Things I would look at:
1) Does the pressure hold when the problem is actually happening?  (Or did
they only check it on the bench)

2) How far does the ball in the operating valve actually move?  It's not
unusual for components to wear until the "setting lever" is no longer
accurate.

3) Is the solenoid still drawing current when the problem happens?
Obviously, if not, the problem is electrical (outside the OD).

FWIW, I am currently having a somewhat similar problem with the A-type in my
56 TR3.  In my case, the problem is almost certainly the 3-4 isolator switch
being intermittent.  Bumping the shift lever slightly forward (not enough to
shift out of gear) or backward will usually get it to make contact again.
Sooner or later, I'll have to pull the cover and change the switch.  Maybe
this time, I'll pay more attention to the number of shims under it.

I'm also curious how they established that the OD clutch is not slipping.
How much torque did they apply to try to make it slip?
Was that while you were seeing the problem?

-- Randall

---

From: Rye Livingston <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 19 May 2016 14:22:14 +0000 (GMT) MailServer16C185.25034-16A-888-23ed09b22b5b t=1463667737; bh=HpG1QMZkFprcSRH/eAXefL80nxh9H0C00MTZ41aVsS8=; h=MIME-version:Content-type:To:From:Subject:Date:Message-id; b=UQt+YsgnMr+xSRZmv67CA2HB1Ry4JzHPzuG54SOsmUzP20K/Os2V0tBe1HMURsL3Q 5GlCKXMAkWSLfTMd9SiADjwdC4wuN9t/Lo2wEyTjKwA9mo/pCUYELb+oYvfjEEpSBu /c0tc8uy05dKpt6K+eW4CLP0S31xTI92bBIids7UhqLEPoCl2GVOTJyRbubMYthiYk iMIADAHedJogyN6r1MPjfQNVGiTH+iJS8Kue7CZ5a3s+WXWNz2p184nEaD8doirCMr jHSb1wJY02WQ5Z1tPrChPOaiAoTlbLE4QyWpG3nfisVhO7cTjUi2JYyJC6hrKrOdnU Z2GWBp792dRgg==

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I will send this to British Motorsports.

Thanks,

Rye

On May 19, 2016, at 06:29 AM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:

Things I would look at:

-- Randall

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<html><body><div></div><div class=3D"x-apple-signature"></div><div class=3D"x-apple-si=
gnature">I will send this to British Motorsports.</div><div class=3D"x-app=
le-signature"><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div class=3D"x-apple-signatu=
re">Thanks,</div><div class=3D"x-apple-signature"><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"=
></div><div class=3D"x-apple-signature">Rye</div><div class=3D"x-apple-sig=
nature"><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div class=3D"x-apple-signature"><b=
r data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div class=3D"x-apple-signature"><br>On May 1=
9, 2016, at 06:29 AM, Randall &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></=
div><div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div class=3D"msg-quote"><div class=3D"=
_stretch"><span class=3D"body-text-content">Almost certainly an A-type, as=
 that is the only type fitted as original.<br>Very slim chance someone fit=
ted a J-type along with a later gearbox, but not<br>likely. I guess anythi=
ng is possible (I once saw a Spitfire with a 426 Hemi<br>under the hood), =
but you'd have to be slightly crazy to put a LH or D type<br>behind a TRac=
tor motor.<br><br>Things I would look at:<br>1) Does the pressure hold whe=
n the problem is actually happening? (Or did<br>they only check it on the =
bench)<br><br>2) How far does the ball in the operating valve actually mov=
e? It's not<br>unusual for components to wear until the "setting lever" is=
 no longer<br>accurate.<br><br>3) Is the solenoid still drawing current wh=
en the problem happens?<br>Obviously, if not, the problem is electrical (o=
utside the OD).<br><br>FWIW, I am currently having a somewhat similar prob=
lem with the A-type in my<br>56 TR3. In my case, the problem is almost cer=
tainly the 3-4 isolator switch<br>being intermittent. Bumping the shift le=
ver slightly forward (not enough to<br>shift out of gear) or backward will=
 usually get it to make contact again.<br>Sooner or later, I'll have to pu=
ll the cover and change the switch. Maybe<br>this time, I'll pay more atte=
ntion to the number of shims under it.<br><br>I'm also curious how they es=
tablished that the OD clutch is not slipping.<br>How much torque did they =
apply to try to make it slip?<br>Was that while you were seeing the proble=
m?<br><br>-- Randall<br><br><br>** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
et" data-mce-href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
et</a> **<br><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" data-=
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"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>Forums: <=
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iv></blockquote></div></body></html>=

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