Subject: Re: [TR] TYR3 Overdrive maintenance

From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 1 May 2016 21:08:39 -0500

I don't have a notched plug, so I shouldn't need that scary socket.   I tried a 32mm socket, too big, and a 30mm socket, too small.  So I'll see if I can find goldilocks somewhere tomorrow.   Hate put a pipe wrench on it, last option. 

Bill

Sent from my VIC-64

On Apr 30, 2016, at 10:18 AM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:

> 1. Have learned that the transmission and O/D use the same 
> oil reservoir so is the Red Line MT90 that I really love for 
> the trans is OK in the O/D unit?

MT-90 works fine for me.  I even contacted Redline tech support and that's what they recommended.

> 2. I have drained the trans from the normal plug, do I drain 
> the O/D from that big brass plug?  

Yes.  There is a screen inside, and perhaps some magnets, that should be cleaned as well.  On earlier units, you remove a small
screw with a flat washer and spacer, to get the screen out.  On later units it just pulls out (or falls out from it's own weight if
things are pretty clean).

> 3. If #2 is yes, Do I have to be careful of anything that may 
> come out, i.e. springs or seals, when I remove the plug?

There's a big fiber washer that seals the plug.  Not usually a problem, but check that it is not damaged before you reuse it.  I had
one split and cause a leak that was hard to find.  Wouldn't hurt to have a spare on hand (P/N 500641).

Main thing to be careful of, IMO, is the plug itself.  Brass is fairly soft, and it's easy to distort the plug, especially if you
have the later one with the notches and try to use a drift in one notch to turn it.  Here's a photo of the two tools I've made to
turn the later type:
http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0007_lighter.jpg.html

The one in the background is just a heavy iron bar (sold at Home Depot as a stake for concrete forms) that was drilled and tapped
for a couple of bolts, then the bolts were filed to suit the plug notches.  It worked OK, but a bit hard to get positioned on the
car.

The big socket with notches milled into it to form the teeth worked better, but I wish I had made it shorter so it would have less
of a tendency to twist.  I forget the size offhand, but the socket was on eBay, used to adjust wheel bearing nuts on a truck axle.

For the earlier type, I just found a heavy (impact) 6 point socket to fit, and filed down the end so it grabbed as much of the hex
as possible.  Seems like maybe it was a 35mm socket (sold for CV joints on FWD cars), but I'm not certain of the size offhand.

-- Randall  

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 2 May 2016 06:10:14 -0700

--===============6965100736779633357==

--001a113d3c309a3be40531dbb6a8

Perhaps not the common tool it once was but the old 'Monkey Wrench' is what
I use for that nut:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey_wrench

The on e I have is labeled 'Ford' - probably out of an old Model A tool
kit.  File image:

Geo

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 7:08 PM, [email-masked] <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I don't have a notched plug, so I shouldn't need that scary socket.   I
> tried a 32mm socket, too big, and a 30mm socket, too small.  So I'll see if
> I can find goldilocks somewhere tomorrow.   Hate put a pipe wrench on it,
> last option.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> Sent from my VIC-64
>
> Yes.  There is a screen inside, and perhaps some magnets, that should be
> cleaned as well.  On earlier units, you remove a small
> screw with a flat washer and spacer, to get the screen out.  On later
> units it just pulls out (or falls out from it's own weight if
> There's a big fiber washer that seals the plug.  Not usually a problem,
> but check that it is not damaged before you reuse it.  I had
> Main thing to be careful of, IMO, is the plug itself.  Brass is fairly
> soft, and it's easy to distort the plug, especially if you
> have the later one with the notches and try to use a drift in one notch to
> turn it.  Here's a photo of the two tools I've made to
> turn the later type:
>
> The one in the background is just a heavy iron bar (sold at Home Depot as
> a stake for concrete forms) that was drilled and tapped
> for a couple of bolts, then the bolts were filed to suit the plug
> notches.  It worked OK, but a bit hard to get positioned on the
> car.
>
> The big socket with notches milled into it to form the teeth worked
> better, but I wish I had made it shorter so it would have less
> of a tendency to twist.  I forget the size offhand, but the socket was on
> eBay, used to adjust wheel bearing nuts on a truck axle.
>
> For the earlier type, I just found a heavy (impact) 6 point socket to fit,
> and filed down the end so it grabbed as much of the hex
> as possible.  Seems like maybe it was a 35mm socket (sold for CV joints on
> FWD cars), but I'm not certain of the size offhand.
>
> -- Randall
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Perhaps not the common tool it once was but the old &=
#39;Monkey Wrench&#39; is what I use for that nut:</div><div><br></div><div=
><a href=3D"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey_wrench">https://en.wikiped=
ia.org/wiki/Monkey_wrench</a></div><div><br></div><div>The on e I have is l=
abeled &#39;Ford&#39; - probably out of an old Model A tool kit.=C2=A0 File=
 image:</div><div><br></div><div><img width=3D"471" height=3D"179" src=3D"h=
ttps://img0.etsystatic.com/004/0/5022161/il_570xN.367835942_6i0a.jpg"><br><=
/div><div><br></div><div>Geo</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div=
 class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 7:08 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:Wb=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailt=
o:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote=
:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-le=
ft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I don&#39;t have a notched plug, so I s=
houldn&#39;t need that scary socket.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I tried a 32mm socket, too=
 big, and a 30mm socket, too small.=C2=A0 So I&#39;ll see if I can find gol=
dilocks somewhere tomorrow.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Hate put a pipe wrench on it, last =
option.<br>
<br>
Bill<br>
<span><br>
<br>
<br>
Sent from my VIC-64<br>
<br>
On Apr 30, 2016, at 10:18 AM, Randall &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
</span><div><div class=3D"h5">&gt; 1. Have learned that the transmission an=
d O/D use the same<br>
&gt; oil reservoir so is the Red Line MT90 that I really love for<br>
&gt; the trans is OK in the O/D unit?<br>
<br>
MT-90 works fine for me.=C2=A0 I even contacted Redline tech support and th=
at&#39;s what they recommended.<br>
<br>
&gt; 2. I have drained the trans from the normal plug, do I drain<br>
&gt; the O/D from that big brass plug?<br>
<br>
Yes.=C2=A0 There is a screen inside, and perhaps some magnets, that should =
be cleaned as well.=C2=A0 On earlier units, you remove a small<br>
screw with a flat washer and spacer, to get the screen out.=C2=A0 On later =
units it just pulls out (or falls out from it&#39;s own weight if<br>
things are pretty clean).<br>
<br>
&gt; 3. If #2 is yes, Do I have to be careful of anything that may<br>
&gt; come out, i.e. springs or seals, when I remove the plug?<br>
<br>
There&#39;s a big fiber washer that seals the plug.=C2=A0 Not usually a pro=
blem, but check that it is not damaged before you reuse it.=C2=A0 I had<br>
one split and cause a leak that was hard to find.=C2=A0 Wouldn&#39;t hurt t=
o have a spare on hand (P/N 500641).<br>
<br>
Main thing to be careful of, IMO, is the plug itself.=C2=A0 Brass is fairly=
 soft, and it&#39;s easy to distort the plug, especially if you<br>
have the later one with the notches and try to use a drift in one notch to =
turn it.=C2=A0 Here&#39;s a photo of the two tools I&#39;ve made to<br>
turn the later type:<br>
<a href=3D"http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0007_=
lighter.jpg.html" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://s258.photobuc=
ket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0007_lighter.jpg.html</a><br>
<br>
The one in the background is just a heavy iron bar (sold at Home Depot as a=
 stake for concrete forms) that was drilled and tapped<br>
for a couple of bolts, then the bolts were filed to suit the plug notches.=
=C2=A0 It worked OK, but a bit hard to get positioned on the<br>
car.<br>
<br>
The big socket with notches milled into it to form the teeth worked better,=
 but I wish I had made it shorter so it would have less<br>
of a tendency to twist.=C2=A0 I forget the size offhand, but the socket was=
 on eBay, used to adjust wheel bearing nuts on a truck axle.<br>
<br>
For the earlier type, I just found a heavy (impact) 6 point socket to fit, =
and filed down the end so it grabbed as much of the hex<br>
as possible.=C2=A0 Seems like maybe it was a 35mm socket (sold for CV joint=
s on FWD cars), but I&#39;m not certain of the size offhand.<br>
<br>
-- Randall<br>
<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> *=
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From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 2 May 2016 09:57:54 -0500

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I have a couple of those, 6-8" I believe, might try that before the pipe wre=
nch.  Thx

Sent from my VIC-64

On May 2, 2016, at 8:10 AM, Geo Hahn <[email-masked]> wrote:

Perhaps not the common tool it once was but the old 'Monkey Wrench' is what I=
 use for that nut:

The on e I have is labeled 'Ford' - probably out of an old Model A tool kit.=
  File image:

Geo

> On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 7:08 PM, [email-masked] <[email-masked]> wrote:=

> I don't have a notched plug, so I shouldn't need that scary socket.   I tr=
ied a 32mm socket, too big, and a 30mm socket, too small.  So I'll see if I c=
an find goldilocks somewhere tomorrow.   Hate put a pipe wrench on it, last o=
ption.
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> MT-90 works fine for me.  I even contacted Redline tech support and that's=
 what they recommended.
>=20
>=20
> Yes.  There is a screen inside, and perhaps some magnets, that should be c=
leaned as well.  On earlier units, you remove a small
> screw with a flat washer and spacer, to get the screen out.  On later unit=
s it just pulls out (or falls out from it's own weight if
>=20
>=20
> There's a big fiber washer that seals the plug.  Not usually a problem, bu=
t check that it is not damaged before you reuse it.  I had
> one split and cause a leak that was hard to find.  Wouldn't hurt to have a=
 spare on hand (P/N 500641).
>=20
> Main thing to be careful of, IMO, is the plug itself.  Brass is fairly sof=
t, and it's easy to distort the plug, especially if you
> have the later one with the notches and try to use a drift in one notch to=
> turn the later type:
> http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0007_lighter.jp=
g.html
>=20
 stake for concrete forms) that was drilled and tapped
> for a couple of bolts, then the bolts were filed to suit the plug notches.=
  It worked OK, but a bit hard to get positioned on the
> car.
>=20
> The big socket with notches milled into it to form the teeth worked better=
, but I wish I had made it shorter so it would have less
> of a tendency to twist.  I forget the size offhand, but the socket was on e=
Bay, used to adjust wheel bearing nuts on a truck axle.
>=20
> For the earlier type, I just found a heavy (impact) 6 point socket to fit,=
> as possible.  Seems like maybe it was a 35mm socket (sold for CV joints on=
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@=
flash.net
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahne=
[email-masked]

--Apple-Mail-073B91A9-F066-440F-8B83-E1F49E4244A9
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>I have a couple of those, 6-8" I belie=
ve, might try that before the pipe wrench. &nbsp;Thx<br><br>Sent from my VIC=
-64</div><div><br>On May 2, 2016, at 8:10 AM, Geo Hahn &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div=
><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Perhaps not the common tool it once was but the old '=
Monkey Wrench' is what I use for that nut:</div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D=
"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey_wrench">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/=
Monkey_wrench</a></div><div><br></div><div>The on e I have is labeled 'Ford'=
 - probably out of an old Model A tool kit.&nbsp; File image:</div><div><br>=
</div><div><img width=3D"471" height=3D"179" src=3D"https://img0.etsystatic.=
com/004/0/5022161/il_570xN.367835942_6i0a.jpg"><br></div><div><br></div><div=
>Geo</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On=
 Sun, May 1, 2016 at 7:08 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Wbeech@fla=
sh.net</a> <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D=
"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmai=
l_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:=
1ex">I don't have a notched plug, so I shouldn't need that scary socket.&nbs=
p; &nbsp;I tried a 32mm socket, too big, and a 30mm socket, too small.&nbsp;=
 So I'll see if I can find goldilocks somewhere tomorrow.&nbsp; &nbsp;Hate p=
ut a pipe wrench on it, last option.<br>
<br>
Bill<br>
<span><br>
<br>
<br>
Sent from my VIC-64<br>
<br>
On Apr 30, 2016, at 10:18 AM, Randall &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked].=
com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
</span><div><div class=3D"h5">&gt; 1. Have learned that the transmission and=
 O/D use the same<br>
&gt; oil reservoir so is the Red Line MT90 that I really love for<br>
&gt; the trans is OK in the O/D unit?<br>
<br>
MT-90 works fine for me.&nbsp; I even contacted Redline tech support and tha=
t's what they recommended.<br>
<br>
&gt; 2. I have drained the trans from the normal plug, do I drain<br>
&gt; the O/D from that big brass plug?<br>
<br>
Yes.&nbsp; There is a screen inside, and perhaps some magnets, that should b=
e cleaned as well.&nbsp; On earlier units, you remove a small<br>
screw with a flat washer and spacer, to get the screen out.&nbsp; On later u=
nits it just pulls out (or falls out from it's own weight if<br>
things are pretty clean).<br>
<br>
&gt; 3. If #2 is yes, Do I have to be careful of anything that may<br>
&gt; come out, i.e. springs or seals, when I remove the plug?<br>
<br>
There's a big fiber washer that seals the plug.&nbsp; Not usually a problem,=
 but check that it is not damaged before you reuse it.&nbsp; I had<br>
one split and cause a leak that was hard to find.&nbsp; Wouldn't hurt to hav=
e a spare on hand (P/N 500641).<br>
<br>
Main thing to be careful of, IMO, is the plug itself.&nbsp; Brass is fairly s=
oft, and it's easy to distort the plug, especially if you<br>
have the later one with the notches and try to use a drift in one notch to t=
urn it.&nbsp; Here's a photo of the two tools I've made to<br>
turn the later type:<br>
<a href=3D"http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0007_l=
ighter.jpg.html" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://s258.photobucke=
t.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0007_lighter.jpg.html</a><br>
<br>
The one in the background is just a heavy iron bar (sold at Home Depot as a s=
take for concrete forms) that was drilled and tapped<br>
for a couple of bolts, then the bolts were filed to suit the plug notches.&n=
bsp; It worked OK, but a bit hard to get positioned on the<br>
car.<br>
<br>
The big socket with notches milled into it to form the teeth worked better, b=
ut I wish I had made it shorter so it would have less<br>
of a tendency to twist.&nbsp; I forget the size offhand, but the socket was o=
n eBay, used to adjust wheel bearing nuts on a truck axle.<br>
<br>
For the earlier type, I just found a heavy (impact) 6 point socket to fit, a=
nd filed down the end so it grabbed as much of the hex<br>
as possible.&nbsp; Seems like maybe it was a 35mm socket (sold for CV joints=
 on FWD cars), but I'm not certain of the size offhand.<br>
<br>
-- Randall<br>
<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **=
<br>
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"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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From: "Bill Beecher" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 2 May 2016 10:23:48 -0500

That's it!  Forgot about the big Whitworth wrench in my drawer, 11/16BSW was
the perfect fit, Bob's your uncle.  Thanks Randall
All the best,
Bill B
TS30800L

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:[email-masked]] 
Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 3:54 AM
To: [email-masked]' <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]; 'Bill Beecher' <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: [TR] TYR3 Overdrive maintenance

> 
> I don't have a notched plug, so I shouldn't need that scary 
> socket.   I tried a 32mm socket, too big, and a 30mm socket, 
> too small.  So I'll see if I can find goldilocks somewhere 
> tomorrow.   Hate put a pipe wrench on it, last option. 

I got curious, so I did some checking.  Looks like maybe the original
intention was 11/16 Whitworth, which according to the chart I have is
1.200".  The socket I used was 30mm, which should be only 1.181" but it's a
bit oversize and actually measures about 1.195".
It will go onto the old plug I found (not the same one I was using before)
with some persuasion.  Since the plug is somewhat chewed up (looks like
someone has been at it with a cold chisel), the 30mm impact socket would
still be the right tool, IMO, even if I had to clean up the flats a bit with
a file.

Probably none of that helps, I was just wondering WTF?  If you can't get the
30mm on with some encouragement, maybe pick up a big adjustable wrench.

Randall