Subject: [TR] The story (drags on) continues

From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 16:38:01 -0700

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A couple of thoughts on your clutch issue.

1.  Is the slave cylinder installed with the bleeder valve on top?  The 
hose and bleeder valve are interchangeable so you just need to swap them 
if they are not in the correct orientation rather than turn the slave over.

2. If so you can try removing the slave with the hose attached and then 
bleed with the cylinder pointing down wards so the bleeder is absolutely 
at the highest point.  Yes you will have to remove the oil filter 
adapter but at this point that seems pretty minor.

3.  I had a similar problem with a TR4.  The master cylinder seal was 
worn and if you pumped the pedal quickly it would suck air in past the 
master cylinder seal on the return stroke.  The proper way to fix this 
is to rebuild the master but if you return the pedal slowly to the up 
position during bleeding you can get the air out and get the car home.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

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    <font face="Arial Black">A <font face="Arial Black">couple of
        thoughts on your clutch issue.<br>
        <br>
        <font face="Arial Black">1.  Is the slave cylinder installed w<font
            face="Arial Black">ith the bleeder valve on top?  The hose
            and bleeder valve are interchangeable so you just need to
            swap them if they are not in the correct orientation rather
            than turn the slave over.<br>
            <br>
            <font face="Arial Black">2. If so you can try removing the
              slave with the hose attached and then bleed with the c<font
                face="Arial Black">ylinder pointing down wards so the
                bleeder is absolutely at the highest point.  Yes you
                will have to remove the oil filter adapter but at this
                point that seems pretty minor.<br>
                <br>
                <font face="Arial Black">3.  I had a similar problem
                  with a TR4.  The master cylinder sea<font face="Arial
                    Black">l was wor<font face="Arial Black">n and if
                      you <font face="Arial Black">pumped </font>the
                      pedal quickly it woul<font face="Arial Black">d
                        suck air in past the master cylinder seal on the
                        return stroke.  The proper way to fix this is to
                        rebuild the master but if you return the pedal
                        slowly to the up position during bleeding you
                        can get the air out and get the car home.<br>
                        <br>
                        <font face="Arial Black">Edward Hamer<br>
                          <font face="Arial Black">Petaluma CA</font><br>
                        </font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font>
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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 17:14:59 -0700

> If one gets a "hard" pedal and it then goes away.. THERE IS 
> an air leak. Either the MC or slave or some where in between...

I've not had the pleasure, but couldn't a thrust washer problem (as suggested by MJB) cause the same symptom?  With the engine
stopped, and the crank pushed as far forward as it will go (without the missing TW half), you could get a hard pedal.  Then when the
engine is started, the crank wanders back to the rear and compresses the clutch slave.  After that, stepping on the pedal causes the
crank to move, rather than operating the clutch.

A similar issue can happen with a broken taper pin.  Sometimes the broken end catches, sometimes it doesn't.

Ditto for a MC piston that doesn't reliably return all the way (broken spring inside).

Randall