Subject: Re: [TR] Workbench rebuild

From: Chris Kantarjiev <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2016 14:00:57 -0700

I'd say "it depends" - on what you intend to use this workbench for.

For a general purpose bench, my favorite design so far is based on a 2x4 
or 2x6 frame, with plywood or butcher block over the top (depending on 
price and availability: 5/8", 2 sheets of 1/2", 1") topped with MDF 
("Masonite"). The plywood is screwed to the frame and the MDF is glued 
down. For bonus points, trim the edges with MDF, too. Let the top 
overhang by an inch or two for clamping.

MDF is a very forgiving surface: it absorbs oil and moisture, it won't 
damage parts when you drop them, it doesn't gouge very badly. And you 
can sand it down once or twice and then pry it off and replace it.

I have used galvanized steel (from an HVAC fitter) for counter tops. It 
has its place, but it can be hard on tools and parts that interact with it.

Plate steel can't be beat for a welding bench, but I wouldn't want to do 
generalized work on it.

I usually attach the bench to the garage framing studs with lag bolts, 
ideally in a corner. That makes it super stable - use a 4x4 or larger on 
the "free" end and mount your vise there.

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

---

From: Rye Livingston <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2016 16:43:03 -0700

My father used 2x6 tongue&groove, and hand picked the pieces so they were nice on the bottom, the non-groove side, and mounted it upside down, grove side down, so it it was very smooth. Very solid work surface.
Rye

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 20, 2016, at 2:00 PM, Chris Kantarjiev <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> For a general purpose bench, my favorite design so far is based on a 2x4 or 2x6 frame, with plywood or butcher block over the top (depending on price and availability: 5/8", 2 sheets of 1/2", 1") topped with MDF ("Masonite"). The plywood is screwed to the frame and the MDF is glued down. For bonus points, trim the edges with MDF, too. Let the top overhang by an inch or two for clamping.
> 
> MDF is a very forgiving surface: it absorbs oil and moisture, it won't damage parts when you drop them, it doesn't gouge very badly. And you can sand it down once or twice and then pry it off and replace it.
> 
> I have used galvanized steel (from an HVAC fitter) for counter tops. It has its place, but it can be hard on tools and parts that interact with it.
> 
> Plate steel can't be beat for a welding bench, but I wouldn't want to do generalized work on it.
> 
> I usually attach the bench to the garage framing studs with lag bolts, ideally in a corner. That makes it super stable - use a 4x4 or larger on the "free" end and mount your vise there.
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: Patrick Baize <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2016 18:44:58 -0500

was there a difference in clips that held the lower rear trim in place 
between a Mk1 and 2?

I bought the clip kit,  and it uses  1/8  rivots, but the holes in the 
top are twice as large.

Pat
71 Stag

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

---

From: Hoyt Duff <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2016 20:16:24 -0400

Here's some images of my workbenches, constructed of 2x4s and 24x48
sheets of plywood. These are attached to the walls, but I have several
workbenches that are stand-alone built along the same lines. I also
use this method to build storage shelves.

http://i.imgur.com/BnyBxmSl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HceOr5Ol.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/6ti8239l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9YihBDPl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/diPmMzpl.jpg

-- 
Hoyt