Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3

From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2016 08:57:08 -0600

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I presume you are referring to the tapered shaft end of the tie Rod?  To rem=
ove the tie rod end you are best served buy buying a Tie Rod End Separator, e=
asily obtainable at your FLAPS.( also handy for self-defense)

It is a forked wedge that slips right on top of the ball joint, sometimes a f=
ew well place taps, sometime a significant whack will get the job done. =20

Bill
TS30800L

Sent from my VIC-64

On Jan 22, 2016, at 8:20 AM, Harold Sawatsky <[email-masked]> wrote:

Good morning
=20
First, thanks for all the input I received before Xmas. The project this wee=
kend is to remove the tie rod as one of the fulcrum pins is completely destr=
oyed and replacing with new pins. Also, should we replace any other bushings=
 while we are doing this? It does look like most other components are in goo=
d condition.
=20
Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best way to proceed an=
d do I need any specialty tools. The engine is ready to re-install but going=
 to delay until this is done although it doesn=E2=80=99t appear that the eng=
ine would be in the way at all.
=20
Thanks in advance
=20
Harold Sawatsky
REMAX CROWN REAL ESTATE
306-535-6961
[email-masked]

=20
	This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Av=
ast.=20
www.avast.com

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
ash.net

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>I presume you are referring to the tap=
ered shaft end of the tie Rod? &nbsp;To remove the tie rod end you are best s=
erved buy buying a Tie Rod End Separator, easily obtainable at your FLAPS.( a=
lso handy for self-defense)</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><br></div><d=
iv id=3D"AppleMailSignature">It is a forked wedge that slips right on top of=
 the ball joint, sometimes a few well place taps, sometime a significant wha=
ck will get the job done. &nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><br></d=
iv><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Bill</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">T=
S30800L</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id=3D"AppleMailSi=
gnature"><br></div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature"><br>Sent from my VIC-64</d=
iv><div><br>On Jan 22, 2016, at 8:20 AM, Harold Sawatsky &lt;<a href=3D"mail=
to:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><d=
iv><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-asci=
i"><meta name=3D"Generator" content=3D"Microsoft Word 12 (filtered medium)">=
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">Good morning<o:p></o:p></span></p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></s=
pan></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">First, thank=
s for all the input I received before Xmas. The project this weekend is to r=
emove the tie rod as one of the fulcrum pins is completely destroyed and rep=
lacing with new pins. Also, should we replace any other bushings while we ar=
e doing this? It does look like most other components are in good condition.=
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt=
"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-siz=
e:12.0pt">Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best way to p=
roceed and do I need any specialty tools. The engine is ready to re-install b=
ut going to delay until this is done although it doesn=E2=80=99t appear that=
 the engine would be in the way at all.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"Mso=
Normal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">Thanks in advance<o:p></o:p=
></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><o:p>&nb=
sp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Harold Sawatsky<o:p></o:p></p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal">REMAX CROWN REAL ESTATE<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNorm=
al">306-535-6961<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><a href=3D"mailto:hsaw=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNorm=
al"><span style=3D"font-size:10.5pt;font-family:&quot;Helvetica&quot;,&quot;=
sans-serif&quot;;color:black"><a href=3D"http://www.myporchlight.ca/"><span s=
tyle=3D"font-size:9.0pt;color:#4787FF"><br></span></a><o:p></o:p></span></p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div>
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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2016 08:00:58 -0700

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Might be a good idea to clarify -- I though perhaps you were referring to
the drag link, if only because the tie-rod ends are so straight forward.

Geo

On Fri, Jan 22, 2016 at 7:57 AM, [email-masked] <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I presume you are referring to the tapered shaft end of the tie Rod?  To
> remove the tie rod end you are best served buy buying a Tie Rod End
> Separator, easily obtainable at your FLAPS.( also handy for self-defense)
>
> It is a forked wedge that slips right on top of the ball joint, sometimes
> a few well place taps, sometime a significant whack will get the job done=
.
>
> Bill
> TS30800L
>
>
>
> Sent from my VIC-64
>
> On Jan 22, 2016, at 8:20 AM, Harold Sawatsky <[email-masked]> wrote=
:
>
> Good morning
>
>
>
> First, thanks for all the input I received before Xmas. The project this
> weekend is to remove the tie rod as one of the fulcrum pins is completely
> destroyed and replacing with new pins. Also, should we replace any other
> bushings while we are doing this? It does look like most other components
> are in good condition.
>
>
>
> Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best way to proceed
> and do I need any specialty tools. The engine is ready to re-install but
> going to delay until this is done although it doesn=E2=80=99t appear that=
 the
> engine would be in the way at all.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance
>
>
>
> Harold Sawatsky
>
> REMAX CROWN REAL ESTATE
>
> 306-535-6961
>
> [email-masked]
>
>
> <http://www.myporchlight.ca/>
>
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm=
_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient> This
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Might be a good idea to clarify -- I though perhaps y=
ou were referring to the drag link, if only because the tie-rod ends are so=
 straight forward.</div><div><br></div><div>Geo</div></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Fri, Jan 22, 2016 at 7:57 AM, =
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> <span dir=3D"ltr">=
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]<=
/a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:=
0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><=
div>I presume you are referring to the tapered shaft end of the tie Rod?=C2=
=A0 To remove the tie rod end you are best served buy buying a Tie Rod End =
Separator, easily obtainable at your FLAPS.( also handy for self-defense)</=
div><div><br></div><div>It is a forked wedge that slips right on top of the=
 ball joint, sometimes a few well place taps, sometime a significant whack =
will get the job done. =C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Bill</div><div>TS308=
00L</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br>Sent from my VIC-64</div><d=
iv><div class=3D"h5"><div><br>On Jan 22, 2016, at 8:20 AM, Harold Sawatsky =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">hsawatsk@sask=
tel.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span =
style=3D"font-size:12pt">Good morning<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"M=
soNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">First, thanks for all th=
e input I received before Xmas. The project this weekend is to remove the t=
ie rod as one of the fulcrum pins is completely destroyed and replacing wit=
h new pins. Also, should we replace any other bushings while we are doing t=
his? It does look like most other components are in good condition.<u></u><=
u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt"><u><=
/u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:=
12pt">Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best way to pro=
ceed and do I need any specialty tools. The engine is ready to re-install b=
ut going to delay until this is done although it doesn=E2=80=99t appear tha=
t the engine would be in the way at all.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></=
p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">Thanks in advance<u=
></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt=
"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Harold Sawatsky<u><=
/u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">REMAX CROWN REAL ESTATE<u></u><u></u><=
/p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><a href=3D"tel:306-535-6961" target=3D"_blank" va=
lue=3D"+13065356961">306-535-6961</a><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l"><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">hsawatsk@saskt=
el.net</a><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:bla=
ck;font-family:&quot;Helvetica&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;font-size:10.5p=
t"><a href=3D"http://www.myporchlight.ca/" target=3D"_blank"><span style=3D=
"color:rgb(71,135,255);font-size:9pt"><br></span></a><u></u><u></u></span><=
/p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div>
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From: "Harold Sawatsky" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2016 09:03:35 -0600

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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The tapered one it is. I=E2=80=99m guessing it=E2=80=99s also called a pick=
le fork. That I have

Thanks

From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] 
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 8:57 AM
To: Harold Sawatsky
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3

I presume you are referring to the tapered shaft end of the tie Rod?  To re=
move the tie rod end you are best served buy buying a Tie Rod End Separator=
, easily obtainable at your FLAPS.( also handy for self-defense)

It is a forked wedge that slips right on top of the ball joint, sometimes a=
 few well place taps, sometime a significant whack will get the job done.  =

Bill

TS30800L

Sent from my VIC-64

Good morning

First, thanks for all the input I received before Xmas. The project this we=
ekend is to remove the tie rod as one of the fulcrum pins is completely des=
troyed and replacing with new pins. Also, should we replace any other bushi=
ngs while we are doing this? It does look like most other components are in=
 good condition.

Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best way to proceed a=
nd do I need any specialty tools. The engine is ready to re-install but goi=
ng to delay until this is done although it doesn=E2=80=99t appear that the =
engine would be in the way at all.

Thanks in advance

Harold Sawatsky

REMAX CROWN REAL ESTATE

306-535-6961

[email-masked]

 

 <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_=
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--></style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vli=
nk=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'c=
olor:#1F497D'>The tapered one it is. I=E2=80=99m guessing it=E2=80=99s also=
 called a pickle fork. That I have<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNorma=
l><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Thanks<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoN=
ormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div s=
tyle=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0i=
n'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tah=
oma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-fam=
ily:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] <br>=
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, January 22, 2016 8:57 AM<br><b>To:</b> Harold Sawatsky=
<br><b>Cc:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] Removing=
 Tie-rod 56TR3<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&=
nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I presume you are referring to the=
 tapered shaft end of the tie Rod? &nbsp;To remove the tie rod end you are =
best served buy buying a Tie Rod End Separator, easily obtainable at your F=
LAPS.( also handy for self-defense)<o:p></o:p></p></div><div id=3DAppleMail=
Signature><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div id=3DAppleMa=
ilSignature><p class=3DMsoNormal>It is a forked wedge that slips right on t=
op of the ball joint, sometimes a few well place taps, sometime a significa=
nt whack will get the job done. &nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div id=3DAppleM=
ailSignature><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div id=3DAppl=
eMailSignature><p class=3DMsoNormal>Bill<o:p></o:p></p></div><div id=3DAppl=
eMailSignature><p class=3DMsoNormal>TS30800L<o:p></o:p></p></div><div id=3D=
AppleMailSignature><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div id=
=3DAppleMailSignature><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div =
id=3DAppleMailSignature><p class=3DMsoNormal><br>Sent from my VIC-64<o:p></=
o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><br>=
On Jan 22, 2016, at 8:20 AM, Harold Sawatsky &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:hsawatsk=
@sasktel.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><div>=
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>Good morning</span><o=
:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;</=
span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>F=
irst, thanks for all the input I received before Xmas. The project this wee=
kend is to remove the tie rod as one of the fulcrum pins is completely dest=
royed and replacing with new pins. Also, should we replace any other bushin=
gs while we are doing this? It does look like most other components are in =
good condition.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'fo=
nt-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span styl=
e=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>Trying to find some documentation or advice as to th=
e best way to proceed and do I need any specialty tools. The engine is read=
y to re-install but going to delay until this is done although it doesn=E2=
=80=99t appear that the engine would be in the way at all.</span><o:p></o:p=
></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:=
p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>Thanks in=
 advance</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size=
:12.0pt'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Harold Sawatsky<o=
:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>REMAX CROWN REAL ESTATE<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>306-535-6961<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica","=
sans-serif";color:black'><a href=3D"http://www.myporchlight.ca/"><span styl=
e=3D'font-size:9.0pt;color:#4787FF'><br></span></a></span><o:p></o:p></p><p=
 class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><table class=3DMsoNormalTable borde=
r=3D1 cellspacing=3D3 cellpadding=3D0 style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid=
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ng:9.0pt .75pt .75pt .75pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-top:.25in'=
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---

From: Harold Sawatsky <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2016 10:30:59 -0600

I'll check our local auto parts supplier here. 
Thanks!

Harold Sawatsky
Remax Crown Real Estate
306-535-6961
[email-masked]

> On Jan 22, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> 
>> First, thanks for all the input I received before Xmas. The 
>> project this weekend is to remove the tie rod as one of the 
>> fulcrum pins is completely destroyed
> 
> A very common problem in my experience.  You might want to consider upgrading to the Delrin/SS joints as sold by ARE & TRF.  They
> will last much longer.
> 
>> Also, should we replace any other bushings while we are 
>> doing this? It does look like most other components are in 
>> good condition.
> 
> The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO; particularly the upper ones.  For the other joints, pry and wiggle against
> them looking for any movement.  In general, if you can see them move at all in ways they are not supposed to, the joint should be
> replaced.
> 
> Also look for any play in the steering box.  If you see any, my suggestion is to rebuild it rather than trying to adjust the screw
> on the top.  It's to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, not wear IMO.
> 
>> Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best 
>> way to proceed and do I need any specialty tools.
> 
> This style of tool seems to work the best for me
> http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
> 
> Never had much luck with the "pickle fork" style, especially on those fulcrum pins (aka silentblocs).
> 
> Randall
>

---

From: Tony Drews <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2016 12:44:00 -0600

+1 on that style of ball joint separator - seems to be much nicer to 
the ball joint, especially if I'm taking it apart but don't plan to 
replace the ball joint.

Tony Drews

At 09:41 AM 1/22/2016, Randall wrote:

>A very common problem in my experience.  You might want to consider 
>upgrading to the Delrin/SS joints as sold by ARE & TRF.  They
>will last much longer.
>
>The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO; 
>particularly the upper ones.  For the other joints, pry and wiggle against
>them looking for any movement.  In general, if you can see them move 
>at all in ways they are not supposed to, the joint should be
>replaced.
>
>Also look for any play in the steering box.  If you see any, my 
>suggestion is to rebuild it rather than trying to adjust the screw
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: davehogye <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2016 19:58:21 +0000 (UTC)

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All good solid advice. 
The fulcrum pin is the inside upper and lower a-arm pivots. The upper pin is replaceable, but the lower isn't really. Are you sure that you have the parts terminology correct? What car is this? 
The upper pin replacement wouldn't necessarily include removable of the tie rod end. 

Dave H. 
----- Original Message -----

From: "Tony Drews" <[email-masked]> 
To: "Randall" <[email-masked]>, "Harold Sawatsky" <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] 
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 10:44:00 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3 

Tony Drews 

------=_Part_8385011_1156378073.1453492701064
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">All good solid advice. &nbsp;</div><di=
v aria-label=3D"Compose body">The fulcrum pin is the inside upper and lower=
 a-arm pivots. &nbsp;The upper pin is replaceable, but the lower isn't real=
ly. &nbsp;Are you sure that you have the parts terminology correct? &nbsp;W=
hat car is this?</div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">The upper pin replac=
ement wouldn't necessarily include removable of the tie rod end.</div><div =
aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">Dave=
 H.</div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=
=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;fo=
nt-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style=3D"col=
or: #000; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; f=
ont-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"Ton=
y Drews" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>To: </b>"Randall" &lt;TR3driver@c=
a.rr.com&gt;, "Harold Sawatsky" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;, triumphs@auto=
x.team.net<br><b>Sent: </b>Friday, January 22, 2016 10:44:00 AM<br><b>Subje=
ct: </b>Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3<br><div><br></div>+1 on that style =
of ball joint separator - seems to be much nicer to <br>the ball joint, esp=
ecially if I'm taking it apart but don't plan to <br>replace the ball joint=
.<br><div><br></div>Tony Drews<br><div><br></div>At 09:41 AM 1/22/2016, Ran=
dall wrote:<br><div><br></div>&gt; &gt; First, thanks for all the input I r=
eceived before Xmas. The<br>&gt; &gt; project this weekend is to remove the=
 tie rod as one of the<br>&gt; &gt; fulcrum pins is completely destroyed<br=
>&gt;<br>&gt;A very common problem in my experience. &nbsp;You might want t=
o consider <br>&gt;upgrading to the Delrin/SS joints as sold by ARE &amp; T=
RF. &nbsp;They<br>&gt;will last much longer.<br>&gt;<br>&gt; &gt; Also, sho=
uld we replace any other bushings while we are<br>&gt; &gt; doing this? It =
does look like most other components are in<br>&gt; &gt; good condition.<br=
>&gt;<br>&gt;The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO; <br>=
&gt;particularly the upper ones. &nbsp;For the other joints, pry and wiggle=
 against<br>&gt;them looking for any movement. &nbsp;In general, if you can=
 see them move <br>&gt;at all in ways they are not supposed to, the joint s=
hould be<br>&gt;replaced.<br>&gt;<br>&gt;Also look for any play in the stee=
ring box. &nbsp;If you see any, my <br>&gt;suggestion is to rebuild it rath=
er than trying to adjust the screw<br>&gt;on the top. &nbsp;It's to compens=
ate for manufacturing tolerances, not wear IMO.<br>&gt;<br>&gt; &gt; Trying=
 to find some documentation or advice as to the best<br>&gt; &gt; way to pr=
oceed and do I need any specialty tools.<br>&gt;<br>&gt;This style of tool =
seems to work the best for me<br>&gt;http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quart=
er-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html<br>&gt;<br>&gt;Never had muc=
h luck with the "pickle fork" style, especially on <br>&gt;those fulcrum pi=
ns (aka silentblocs).<br>&gt;<br>&gt;Randall<br>&gt;<br>&gt;<br>&gt;** triu=
[email-masked] **<br>&gt;<br>&gt;Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.ht=
ml<br>&gt;Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt;Forums: http://www.te=
am.net/forums<br>&gt;Unsubscribe/Manage: <br>&gt;http://autox.team.net/mail=
man/options/triumphs/[email-masked]<br><div><br></div><br><div><br></di=
v>** [email-masked] **<br><div><br></div>Donate: http://www.team.n=
et/donate.html<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http://ww=
w.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/opti=
ons/triumphs/[email-masked]<br></div><div><br></div></div></body></htm=
l>
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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2016 13:08:38 -0700

--===============0100279793688415278==

--001a1141f14ce956900529f1c836

On Fri, Jan 22, 2016 at 12:58 PM, davehogye <[email-masked]> wrote:

> ...Are you sure that you have the parts terminology correct?...
>

Maybe the parts in question can be called out by the numbers...

http://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/Products/Schematics/TRI-026_1.jpg

http://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/Products/Schematics/TRI-022_1_1.jpg

Geo

--001a1141f14ce956900529f1c836
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On F=
ri, Jan 22, 2016 at 12:58 PM, davehogye <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"ma=
ilto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</sp=
an> wrote:<br><div>=C2=A0</div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"m=
argin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204)=
;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid"><div><div style=3D"color:rg=
b(0,0,0);font-family:Arial;font-size:12pt"><div>...Are you sure that you ha=
ve the parts terminology correct?...<br></div></div></div></blockquote><div=
><br></div><div><br></div><div>Maybe the parts in question can be called ou=
t by the numbers...</div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"http://www.mossmoto=
rs.com/Graphics/Products/Schematics/TRI-026_1.jpg">http://www.mossmotors.co=
m/Graphics/Products/Schematics/TRI-026_1.jpg</a></div><div><br></div><div><=
img src=3D"http://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/Products/Schematics/TRI-026_1=
.jpg"></div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"http://www.mossmotors.com/Graphi=
cs/Products/Schematics/TRI-022_1_1.jpg">http://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/=
Products/Schematics/TRI-022_1_1.jpg</a>=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><di=
v><img src=3D"http://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/Products/Schematics/TRI-02=
2_1_1.jpg"></div><div><br></div><div>Geo<br></div></div></div></div>

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---

From: "Harold Sawatsky" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2016 15:20:32 -0600

Managed to pick up almost the same thing here in Regina.

Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Harold
Sawatsky
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 10:31 AM
To: Randall
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3

Harold Sawatsky
Remax Crown Real Estate
306-535-6961
[email-masked]

>> First, thanks for all the input I received before Xmas. The project 
>> this weekend is to remove the tie rod as one of the fulcrum pins is 
>> completely destroyed
> 
> upgrading to the Delrin/SS joints as sold by ARE & TRF.  They will last
much longer.
> 
>> Also, should we replace any other bushings while we are doing this? 
>> It does look like most other components are in good condition.
> 
> The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO; particularly 
> the upper ones.  For the other joints, pry and wiggle against them 
> looking for any movement.  In general, if you can see them move at all in
ways they are not supposed to, the joint should be replaced.
> suggestion is to rebuild it rather than trying to adjust the screw on the
top.  It's to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, not wear IMO.
> 
>> Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best way to 
>> proceed and do I need any specialty tools.
> 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

---

From: Harold Sawatsky <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2016 17:14:02 -0600

--===============3873745924074320435==
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OK. I'll sit down I front of it in the morning.=20
And, my terminology could definitely be off. I thought I had a good look but=
 marble not.=20
Good advice=20

Thanks

Harold Sawatsky
Remax Crown Real Estate
306-535-6961
[email-masked]

> On Jan 22, 2016, at 1:58 PM, davehogye <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> All good solid advice. =20
> The fulcrum pin is the inside upper and lower a-arm pivots.  The upper pin=
 is replaceable, but the lower isn't really.  Are you sure that you have the=
 parts terminology correct?  What car is this?
> The upper pin replacement wouldn't necessarily include removable of the ti=
e rod end.
> To: "Randall" <[email-masked]>, "Harold Sawatsky" <[email-masked]=
et>, [email-masked]
> +1 on that style of ball joint separator - seems to be much nicer to=20
> the ball joint, especially if I'm taking it apart but don't plan to=20
> replace the ball joint.
>=20
> Tony Drews
>=20
> >A very common problem in my experience.  You might want to consider=20
> >The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO;=20
> >particularly the upper ones.  For the other joints, pry and wiggle agains=
t
> >them looking for any movement.  In general, if you can see them move=20
> >Also look for any play in the steering box.  If you see any, my=20
> >on the top.  It's to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, not wear IM=
O.
> >http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator=
-99849.html
> >
> >Never had much luck with the "pickle fork" style, especially on=20
> >those fulcrum pins (aka silentblocs).
> >
> >Randall
> >
> >
> >Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye=
@comcast.net

--Apple-Mail-5D331572-CB69-4F65-962B-451927F2C09B
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>OK. I'll sit down I front of it in the=
 morning.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">And, my terminology coul=
d definitely be off. I thought I had a good look but marble not.&nbsp;</div>=
<div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Good advice&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSi=
gnature"><br></div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Thanks<br><br>Harold Sawat=
sky<div>Remax Crown Real Estate</div><div>306-535-6961</div><div><a href=3D"=
mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></div></div><div><br>On J=
an 22, 2016, at 1:58 PM, davehogye &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite">=
<div><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div=
 aria-label=3D"Compose body">All good solid advice. &nbsp;</div><div aria-la=
bel=3D"Compose body">The fulcrum pin is the inside upper and lower a-arm piv=
ots. &nbsp;The upper pin is replaceable, but the lower isn't really. &nbsp;A=
re you sure that you have the parts terminology correct? &nbsp;What car is t=
his?</div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">The upper pin replacement wouldn'=
t necessarily include removable of the tie rod end.</div><div aria-label=3D"=
Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">Dave H.</div><div a=
ria-label=3D"Compose body"></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;f=
ont-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helveti=
ca,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style=3D"color: #000; font-wei=
ght: normal; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; font-family: Helveti=
ca,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"Tony Drews" &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br><b>To: </b>"Ran=
dall" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=
, "Harold Sawatsky" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">hsawatsk@sas=
ktel.net</a>&gt;, <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">triumphs@autox.=
team.net</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Friday, January 22, 2016 10:44:00 AM<br><b>Subj=
ect: </b>Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3<br><div><br></div>+1 on that style o=
f ball joint separator - seems to be much nicer to <br>the ball joint, espec=
ially if I'm taking it apart but don't plan to <br>replace the ball joint.<b=
r><div><br></div>Tony Drews<br><div><br></div>At 09:41 AM 1/22/2016, Randall=
 wrote:<br><div><br></div>&gt; &gt; First, thanks for all the input I receiv=
ed before Xmas. The<br>&gt; &gt; project this weekend is to remove the tie r=
od as one of the<br>&gt; &gt; fulcrum pins is completely destroyed<br>&gt;<b=
r>&gt;A very common problem in my experience. &nbsp;You might want to consid=
er <br>&gt;upgrading to the Delrin/SS joints as sold by ARE &amp; TRF. &nbsp=
;They<br>&gt;will last much longer.<br>&gt;<br>&gt; &gt; Also, should we rep=
lace any other bushings while we are<br>&gt; &gt; doing this? It does look l=
ike most other components are in<br>&gt; &gt; good condition.<br>&gt;<br>&gt=
;The inner A-arm bushings are another common problem, IMO; <br>&gt;particula=
rly the upper ones. &nbsp;For the other joints, pry and wiggle against<br>&g=
t;them looking for any movement. &nbsp;In general, if you can see them move <=
br>&gt;at all in ways they are not supposed to, the joint should be<br>&gt;r=
eplaced.<br>&gt;<br>&gt;Also look for any play in the steering box. &nbsp;If=
 you see any, my <br>&gt;suggestion is to rebuild it rather than trying to a=
djust the screw<br>&gt;on the top. &nbsp;It's to compensate for manufacturin=
g tolerances, not wear IMO.<br>&gt;<br>&gt; &gt; Trying to find some documen=
tation or advice as to the best<br>&gt; &gt; way to proceed and do I need an=
y specialty tools.<br>&gt;<br>&gt;This style of tool seems to work the best f=
or me<br>&gt;<a href=3D"http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged=
-ball-joint-separator-99849.html">http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-i=
nch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html</a><br>&gt;<br>&gt;Never had much=
 luck with the "pickle fork" style, especially on <br>&gt;those fulcrum pins=
 (aka silentblocs).<br>&gt;<br>&gt;Randall<br>&gt;<br>&gt;<br>&gt;** <a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **<br>&gt;<b=
r>&gt;Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.ne=
t/donate.html</a><br>&gt;Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">ht=
tp://www.team.net/archive</a><br>&gt;Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/=
forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>&gt;Unsubscribe/Manage: <br>&gt;<a=
 href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]">=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br><di=
v><br></div><br><div><br></div>** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a> **<br><div><br></div>Donate: <a href=3D"http://=
www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a=
 href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>For=
ums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><b=
r>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/trium=
phs/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlho=
[email-masked]</a><br></div><div><br></div></div></div></blockquote></body>=
</html>=

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From: davehogye <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2016 00:21:14 +0000 (UTC)

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Oh, I see the car type in the thread title, duh. 

Harold, 
I'm thinking that you might be talking about the trunnion. If the trunnion is obviously worn and if you are going to disassemble the front suspension to replace it, then a total suspension rebuild would be in order. 
The trunnion is the most expensive part to service correctly. An experience mechanic might be considered for this work. Studying a proper manual would be a good place to start. 
To replace the trunnions, I would do both sides, there are bronze bushings in the a-arms that need to be replaced and honed to fit the new trunnions. 
An automotive machinist should perform this job. 
The rest of the rebuild is fairly easy. 
I can guaranty that you would not regret rebuilding the suspension and steering if it is needed. It will transform the handling of your TR. 

Best of luck, 
Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Harold Sawatsky" <[email-masked]> 
To: "davehogye" <[email-masked]> 
Cc: "Tony Drews" <[email-masked]>, "TR3driver Randall" <[email-masked]>, "TR list" <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 3:14:02 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3 

OK. I'll sit down I front of it in the morning. 
And, my terminology could definitely be off. I thought I had a good look but marble not. 
Good advice 

Thanks 

Harold Sawatsky 
Remax Crown Real Estate 
306-535-6961 
[email-masked] 

On Jan 22, 2016, at 1:58 PM, davehogye < [email-masked] > wrote: 

All good solid advice. 

Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Tony Drews" < [email-masked] > 
To: "Randall" < [email-masked] >, "Harold Sawatsky" < [email-masked] >, [email-masked] 
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 10:44:00 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3 

Tony Drews 

------=_Part_8581751_390450527.1453508474268
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">Oh, I see the car type in the thread t=
itle, duh.</div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=
=3D"Compose body">Harold, </div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">I'm thinki=
ng that you might be talking about the trunnion. &nbsp;If the trunnion is o=
bviously worn and if you are going to disassemble the front suspension to r=
eplace it, then a total suspension rebuild would be in order. &nbsp;</div><=
div aria-label=3D"Compose body">The trunnion is the most expensive part to =
service correctly. &nbsp;An experience mechanic might be considered for thi=
s work. &nbsp;Studying a proper manual would be a good place to start.</div=
><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">To replace the trunnions, I would do both=
 sides, there are bronze bushings in the a-arms that need to be replaced an=
d honed to fit the new trunnions.</div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">An =
automotive machinist should perform this job.</div><div aria-label=3D"Compo=
se body">The rest of the rebuild is fairly easy.</div><div aria-label=3D"Co=
mpose body">I can guaranty that you would not regret rebuilding the suspens=
ion and steering if it is needed. &nbsp;It will transform the handling of y=
our TR.</div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"=
Compose body">Best of luck,</div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">Dave H.</=
div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose b=
ody"></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;fon=
t-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;=
font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style=3D"color: #000; font-weight: normal; font-s=
tyle: normal; text-decoration: none; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-seri=
f; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"Harold Sawatsky" &lt;[email-masked]=
t&gt;<br><b>To: </b>"davehogye" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Cc: </b>"=
Tony Drews" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;, "TR3driver Randall" &lt;TR3driver@c=
a.rr.com&gt;, "TR list" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Sent: </b>Fri=
day, January 22, 2016 3:14:02 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [TR] Removing Tie-r=
od 56TR3<br><div><br></div><div>OK. I'll sit down I front of it in the morn=
ing.&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">And, my terminology could de=
finitely be off. I thought I had a good look but marble not.&nbsp;</div><di=
v id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Good advice&nbsp;</div><div id=3D"AppleMailSign=
ature"><br></div><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">Thanks<br><div><br></div>Ha=
rold Sawatsky<div>Remax Crown Real Estate</div><div>306-535-6961</div><div>=
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"m=
ailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></div></div><div><br>On J=
an 22, 2016, at 1:58 PM, davehogye &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
t" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">dlhogye@c=
omcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br><div><br></div></div><blockquote><div><div sty=
le=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000" data-mce-style=
=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000;"><div>All good sol=
id advice. &nbsp;</div><div>The fulcrum pin is the inside upper and lower a=
-arm pivots. &nbsp;The upper pin is replaceable, but the lower isn't really=
. &nbsp;Are you sure that you have the parts terminology correct? &nbsp;Wha=
t car is this?</div><div>The upper pin replacement wouldn't necessarily inc=
lude removable of the tie rod end.</div><div><br></div><div>Dave H.</div><d=
iv><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;f=
ont-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-seri=
f;font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style=3D"color: #000; font-weight: normal; font=
-style: normal; text-decoration: none; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,sans-se=
rif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"Tony Drews" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tony=
@tonydrews.com" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
m">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br><b>To: </b>"Randall" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"mailto:TR3driver@c=
a.rr.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, "Harold Sawatsky" &lt;<a href=3D"mai=
lto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"mailto:hsawats=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@aut=
ox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"mailto:[email-masked].=
net">[email-masked]</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Friday, January 22, 2016 1=
0:44:00 AM<br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3<br><div><br><=
/div>+1 on that style of ball joint separator - seems to be much nicer to <=
br>the ball joint, especially if I'm taking it apart but don't plan to <br>=
replace the ball joint.<br><div><br></div>Tony Drews<br><div><br></div>At 0=
9:41 AM 1/22/2016, Randall wrote:<br><div><br></div>&gt; &gt; First, thanks=
 for all the input I received before Xmas. The<br>&gt; &gt; project this we=
ekend is to remove the tie rod as one of the<br>&gt; &gt; fulcrum pins is c=
ompletely destroyed<br>&gt;<br>&gt;A very common problem in my experience. =
&nbsp;You might want to consider <br>&gt;upgrading to the Delrin/SS joints =
as sold by ARE &amp; TRF. &nbsp;They<br>&gt;will last much longer.<br>&gt;<=
br>&gt; &gt; Also, should we replace any other bushings while we are<br>&gt=
; &gt; doing this? It does look like most other components are in<br>&gt; &=
gt; good condition.<br>&gt;<br>&gt;The inner A-arm bushings are another com=
mon problem, IMO; <br>&gt;particularly the upper ones. &nbsp;For the other =
joints, pry and wiggle against<br>&gt;them looking for any movement. &nbsp;=
In general, if you can see them move <br>&gt;at all in ways they are not su=
pposed to, the joint should be<br>&gt;replaced.<br>&gt;<br>&gt;Also look fo=
r any play in the steering box. &nbsp;If you see any, my <br>&gt;suggestion=
 is to rebuild it rather than trying to adjust the screw<br>&gt;on the top.=
 &nbsp;It's to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, not wear IMO.<br>&g=
t;<br>&gt; &gt; Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best<=
br>&gt; &gt; way to proceed and do I need any specialty tools.<br>&gt;<br>&=
gt;This style of tool seems to work the best for me<br>&gt;<a href=3D"http:=
//www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.=
html" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-q=
uarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html">http://www.harborfreigh=
t.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html</a><br>&gt;<b=
r>&gt;Never had much luck with the "pickle fork" style, especially on <br>&=
gt;those fulcrum pins (aka silentblocs).<br>&gt;<br>&gt;Randall<br>&gt;<br>=
&gt;<br>&gt;** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank"=
 data-mce-href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</=
a> **<br>&gt;<br>&gt;Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" ta=
rget=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>&gt;Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/a=
rchive" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">htt=
p://www.team.net/archive</a><br>&gt;Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/=
forums" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http=
://www.team.net/forums</a><br>&gt;Unsubscribe/Manage: <br>&gt;<a href=3D"ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]" target=3D"=
_blank" data-mce-href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ton=
[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydr=
ews.com</a><br><div><br></div><br><div><br></div>** <a href=3D"mailto:trium=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"mailto:triumphs@auto=
x.team.net">[email-masked]</a> **<br><div><br></div>Donate: <a hre=
f=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"ht=
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ve: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=
=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>Forums:=
 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank" data-mce-href=3D"=
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s/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br></div><div><br></div></div></div></bl=
ockquote></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>
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---

From: "CFMTR3A" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2016 10:47:01 -0500

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--===============3092961202692197391==
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Not knowing what you have purchased already, but you may want to consider
buying TRF's Magic kit that includes all of the necessary parts to rebuild
the front suspension.  It is on sale through the 28th and looks to be a
great price when you look at the individual prices at both Moss and TRF.  

http://trf.zeni.net/wc/specials6.21/8.php

From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Harold
Sawatsky
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 9:20 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] Removing Tie-rod 56TR3

Good morning

Trying to find some documentation or advice as to the best way to proceed
and do I need any specialty tools. The engine is ready to re-install but
going to delay until this is done although it doesn't appear that the engine
would be in the way at all.

Thanks in advance

Harold Sawatsky

REMAX CROWN REAL ESTATE

306-535-6961

 

<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campai
gn=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 

<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campai
gn=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> www.avast.com 

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<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" =
xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" =
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii"><meta name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 =
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Not knowing what you have purchased already, but =
you may want to consider buying TRF&#8217;s Magic kit that includes all =
of the necessary parts to rebuild the front suspension.&nbsp; It is on =
sale through the 28<sup>th</sup> and looks to be a great price when you =
look at the individual prices at both Moss and TRF.&nbsp; =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><a =
href=3D"http://trf.zeni.net/wc/specials6.21/8.php" =
target=3D"_blank">http://trf.zeni.net/wc/specials6.21/8.php</a><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><b>From:</b> =
Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Harold Sawatsky<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, January 22, 2016 9:20 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> [TR] =
Removing Tie-rod 56TR3<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>Good =
morning<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>First, thanks for all the input I received =
before Xmas. The project this weekend is to remove the tie rod as one of =
the fulcrum pins is completely destroyed and replacing with new pins. =
Also, should we replace any other bushings while we are doing this? It =
does look like most other components are in good =
condition.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>Trying to find some documentation or advice =
as to the best way to proceed and do I need any specialty tools. The =
engine is ready to re-install but going to delay until this is done =
although it doesn&#8217;t appear that the engine would be in the way at =
all.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>Thanks in advance<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'>Harold =
Sawatsky<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-left:.5in'>REMAX CROWN REAL ESTATE<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-left:.5in'>306-535-6961<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><o:p></o:p><=
/p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><a =
href=3D"http://www.myporchlight.ca/"><span =
style=3D'font-size:9.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#4787FF=
'><br></span></a><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.5pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'=
><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
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