Subject: [TR] TR4 heater valve

From: "James Henningsen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2015 13:14:21 -0500

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--===============0800389457456851088==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_001A_01D1423A.D53C24C0"
Content-Language: en-us

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01D1423A.D53C24C0
	charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Still working on my restoration of my 1962 TR4.  I have a new heater valve
inlet pipe installed in the head.  I noticed that it is loose in the threads
and that you cannot completely turn it to tighten as it hits up against the
first cylinder head stud and nut.  Even with the stud nut removed, it would
still hit against the head stud.  It looks like the correct part per the
factory parts catalog.  The question is how to tighten this pipe?  It
appears it needs to be a little higher so it doesn't catch against the head
stud and can spin freely.  At this stage I am thinking of cutting the top of
the pipe off so I can remove and start over.  The parts catalog doesn't show
if it has a straight pipe extension going into head first and then the 45
degree elbow pipe screws into that.  That is what looks like is needed.  Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated before cutting this bugger out.

Cheers,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4 (one day it will be done)

73 Jaguar XKE 2+2 (delivery from Santa!)

75 TR6

76 Toyota Celica

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01D1423A.D53C24C0
	charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" =
xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" =
xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" =
xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" =
xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><META =
HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii"><meta name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 =
(filtered medium)"><style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
	{font-family:"Cambria Math";
	panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
@font-face
	{font-family:Calibri;
	panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
	{margin:0in;
	margin-bottom:.0001pt;
	font-size:11.0pt;
	font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
	{mso-style-priority:99;
	color:#0563C1;
	text-decoration:underline;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
	{mso-style-priority:99;
	color:#954F72;
	text-decoration:underline;}
span.EmailStyle17
	{mso-style-type:personal-compose;
	font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
	color:windowtext;}
.MsoChpDefault
	{mso-style-type:export-only;
	font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}
@page WordSection1
	{size:8.5in 11.0in;
	margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
div.WordSection1
	{page:WordSection1;}
--></style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Still working on my restoration of my 1962 TR4.&nbsp; =
I have a new heater valve inlet pipe installed in the head.&nbsp; I =
noticed that it is loose in the threads and that you cannot completely =
turn it to tighten as it hits up against the first cylinder head stud =
and nut.&nbsp; Even with the stud nut removed, it would still hit =
against the head stud.&nbsp; It looks like the correct part per the =
factory parts catalog.&nbsp; The question is how to tighten this =
pipe?&nbsp; It appears it needs to be a little higher so it =
doesn&#8217;t catch against the head stud and can spin freely.&nbsp; At =
this stage I am thinking of cutting the top of the pipe off so I can =
remove and start over.&nbsp; The parts catalog doesn&#8217;t show if it =
has a straight pipe extension going into head first and then the 45 =
degree elbow pipe screws into that.&nbsp; That is what looks like is =
needed.&nbsp; Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated before =
cutting this bugger out.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Cheers,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Jim =
Henningsen<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Ocala FL<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>62 TR4 (one day it will be done)<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>73 Jaguar XKE 2+2 (delivery from =
Santa!)<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>75 TR6<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>76 Toyota Celica<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal> =
&nbsp;&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01D1423A.D53C24C0--

--===============0800389457456851088==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

--===============0800389457456851088==--

---

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2015 14:16:41 -0800

> Jim,
> 
> The part you need is the elbow. Part # 133061. Plate # AR10 
> on page 99 in the TR4 parts list.

A 45 degree "street ell" (from the local plumbing supply) will also work.

Randall

---

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2015 16:06:04 -0800

> Possibly the correct assembly order is to have it in place 
> before the head is lowered onto the studs?

That's the way I remember it.  

Since Jim already has the head installed, I would probably try removing that one stud leaving the rest tight (which shouldn't mess
up the head gasket seal).  

Another alternative (if strict originality is not too important) might be to cut the old one apart, remove the lower end with a pipe
extractor, then use a short straight nipple & regular elbow (either 45 or 90) instead of the stock 45 street ell.

-- Randall