Subject: [TR] Compression TR3A

From: Ann Carletta <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2015 23:25:39 +0000 (UTC)

Hi and thanks to everyone who gave me comments on the carburetor.  So turns out it wasn't a carb problem, but a compression problem  #1-75, #2-55, #3-55 and #4-0.  Even though he explained it to me, all I heard was the expensive price, which is not in my budget right now.  Am I doing any damage to the car if I drive her this way.  I always check the oil and fill it when needed.  Is there a cheaper temporary fix?

Ann
1960 (or 59?) TR3A

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2015 07:41:24 -0500

> Hi and thanks to everyone who gave me comments on the carburetor.  So turns out it wasn't a carb problem, but a compression problem  #1-75, #2-55, #3-55 and #4-0.  Even though he explained it to me…

Hard to say how much additional damage you might be doing by driving
it further, but unless I was being chased by zombies, I wouldn't.  At
best, you'd run the risk of being stranded somewhere when the rest of
it quits...at worst, you would destroy whatever is left that's still
good right now.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

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From: Michael Marr <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2015 12:54:54 +0000

Who did the compression test?  Did the person do it dry first, and then with a little oil in the cylinders?  What was the condition of the plug from #4?  When did the engine last have a valve job?  If #4 really has 0 compression, then something catastrophic may have occurred, so I am not sure that I would drive it.  At the minimum I would remove the head to see what is going on in #4. 

Mike

Michael Marr
Albion Technical Services
Mobile:  630-202-0065

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 15, 2015, at 5:29 PM, Ann Carletta <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
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From: "Pete Ryner" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2015 08:04:21 -0500

I wouldn't drive it until I knew what was going on.  I had a similar problem 
and found a hole in the #4 piston.  The recommendation of a dry/wet 
compression test is a good one to try to find the problem but nothing will 
beat taking the head off if there was really 0 compression.  You don't know 
how damaged the engine is, but if you continue to drive you can pretty much 
guarantee you'll do more damage and possibly much more expensive.  You sure 
don't want to damage the crankshaft or block or even the head to the point 
they can't be repaired.  Then you could be talking big bucks.
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: Michael Marr
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2015 7:54 AM
To: Ann Carletta
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] Compression TR3A

Who did the compression test?  Did the person do it dry first, and then with 
a little oil in the cylinders?  What was the condition of the plug from #4? 
When did the engine last have a valve job?  If #4 really has 0 compression, 
then something catastrophic may have occurred, so I am not sure that I would 
drive it.  At the minimum I would remove the head to see what is going on in 
#4.

Mike

Michael Marr

Sent from my iPad

> Hi and thanks to everyone who gave me comments on the carburetor.  So 
> turns out it wasn't a carb problem, but a compression problem  #1-75, 
> #2-55, #3-55 and #4-0.  Even though he explained it to me, all I heard was 
> the expensive price, which is not in my budget right now.  Am I doing any 
> damage to the car if I drive her this way.  I always check the oil and 
> fill it when needed.  Is there a cheaper temporary fix?
>
> Ann
> 1960 (or 59?) TR3A
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2015 06:36:48 -0700

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On Sun, Nov 15, 2015 at 4:25 PM, Ann Carletta <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Even though he explained it to me, all I heard was the expensive price,..
> Is there a cheaper temporary fix?

You don't say what he explained but if the price was a shocker (say, high 4
figures) then perhaps he is quoting a complete rebuild of the engine.

There may be less expensive approaches but whether there are would depend
on more tests, including some already mentioned.

I know it is difficult (and expensive) when a TR owner is reliant on a
professional mechanic for work.  There are some 'half-measures' that might
make sense for someone doing their own work but when using a pro he will be
less likely to look on such things favorably as a shop will want to stand
behind their work which means they will want to 'fix it right'.

Geo

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On S=
un, Nov 15, 2015 at 4:25 PM, Ann Carletta <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"=
mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&g=
t;</span> wrote:<br><div>=C2=A0</div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" styl=
e=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,20=
4,204);border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid"> Even though he expla=
ined it to me, all I heard was the expensive price,..=C2=A0 Is there a chea=
per temporary fix?</blockquote><div><br></div><div>You don&#39;t say what h=
e explained but if the price was a shocker (say, high 4 figures) then perha=
ps he is quoting a complete rebuild of the engine.</div><div><br></div><div=
>There may be less expensive approaches but whether there are would depend =
on more tests, including some already mentioned.</div><div><br></div><div>I=
 know it is difficult (and expensive)=C2=A0when a TR owner is reliant on a =
professional mechanic for work.=C2=A0 There are some &#39;half-measures&#39=
; that might make sense for someone doing their own work but when using a p=
ro=C2=A0he will be less likely to look on such things favorably as a shop w=
ill want to stand behind their work which means they will want to &#39;fix =
it right&#39;.</div><div><br></div><div>Geo</div><div><br></div><div>=C2=A0=
</div></div></div></div>

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From: EDWARD <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2015 14:33:57 +0000 (UTC)

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Can engine even move a car with such compression numbers? 
Ed Woods 

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<html><body><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><DIV>Can engine even move a car with such compression numbers?<BR></DIV>
<DIV>Ed Woods</DIV></div></body></html>
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From: "John Macartney" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2015 14:43:05 -0000

Ann

The engine in your car is a tough old beast and can take an enormous amount of 'abuse'. That said, the symptoms you describe suggest that things are far from what they should be and it's likely the power unit may have to be removed to determine the extent of those issues. Of course, it's a big disappointment when you can't use the car but if you do continue to drive it, more damage might be caused and the cost of fixing things might be even higher than any figure quoted this far. This time around I'd advise no further driving until you have a lot more info.

Jonmac

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From: David Porter <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2015 07:44:48 -0700

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barely... and starting it must be a challenge too..
dp

On 11/16/2015 7:33 AM, EDWARD wrote:
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

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    barely... and starting it must be a challenge too..<br>
    dp<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/16/2015 7:33 AM, EDWARD wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000">
        <div>Can engine even move a car with such compression numbers?<br>
        </div>
        <div>Ed Woods</div>
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      <br>
      <pre wrap="">
** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a>
</pre>
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    <br>
    <div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
      Dave Porter
      Porter Custom Bicycles
      2909 Arno St. NE
      Albuquerque, NM 87107
      505-352-1378
      Go HERE: my world <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.porterbikes.com/">www.porterbikes.com/</a>
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2015 09:51:54 -0500

You are talking psi, right?  Something isn't right there - I don't believe
the car would start, let alone drive with numbers like that.

Since you cannot afford the mechanic, I'd call the local TR chapter, get a
few folks over at the weekend and order a pizza (much cheaper).

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Ann
Carletta
Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2015 6:26 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] Compression TR3A

Hi and thanks to everyone who gave me comments on the carburetor.  So turns
out it wasn't a carb problem, but a compression problem  #1-75, #2-55, #3-55
and #4-0.  Even though he explained it to me, all I heard was the expensive
price, which is not in my budget right now.  Am I doing any damage to the
car if I drive her this way.  I always check the oil and fill it when
needed.  Is there a cheaper temporary fix?

Ann
1960 (or 59?) TR3A

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: "Jonas Payne" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2015 08:54:08 -0800

Why not pull the valve cover gasket and verify that you don't have a stuck
valve or pushrod out of whack - just had an AH in the shop with no
compression on 6 and it turned out that it was a stuck valve.

I wouldn't run a car that isn't hitting on one cylinder, it will still be
getting gas, and the gas will wash the cylinder wall, accelerating wear and
eventually go to your crankcase.  It won't take long to have a crankcase
full of gas.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2015 8:20 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] Compression TR3A

> Am I doing any

Hard to know for sure, without knowing just what is going on inside.
Getting a compression reading of 0 is unusual and suggests a large failure,
like a broken piston or a stuck valve.

But, if it holds adequate oil pressure (at least 10 psi per 1000 rpm) and
there are no metal flakes (aka sparklies) in the drained oil; then I'd say
chances are that you aren't hurting it any further by driving it.  The parts
that are damaged will likely continue to deteriorate, but they already have
to be replaced anyway.

If it were mine, I would pop the head off and have a look.  There are
several partial repairs that can be done on the cheap, when you don't have
to pay for shop time.  But as noted, a professional shop is not likely to
want to do those sorts of things, for fear that you will blame them when
they eventually fail.

-- Randall  

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: "Jonas Payne" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2015 08:54:52 -0800

Valve cover, not valve cover gasket............

Jonas Payne

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Jonas
Payne
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2015 8:54 AM
To: 'Randall' <[email-masked]>; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] Compression TR3A

Jonas Payne

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2015 8:20 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] Compression TR3A

-- Randall