Subject: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt

From: "Art McEwen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2015 10:23:14 -0400

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So what's the collective wisdom for getting that $*@(ing thing out?

Thanks,

Art.
TS64989LO

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So what's the collective wisdom for getting that $*@(ing thing out?<div><br /></div><div>Thanks,</div><div><br /></div><div>Art.</div><div>TS64989LO</div>

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2015 11:47:07 -0400

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Assuming it won't pull out, I have seen holes drilled to hammer it out, and
I have seen a hole cut in the frame to facilitate heating the bolt directly.

It is a pain in the rear, though.

Andrew Uprichard

From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Art
McEwen
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2015 10:23 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt

Thanks,

Art.

TS64989LO

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Assuming it won&#8217;t pull out, I have seen holes drilled to hammer =
it out, and I have seen a hole cut in the frame to facilitate heating =
the bolt directly.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>It is a pain in the rear, though.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Andrew Uprichard<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Art McEwen<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, September 18, 2015 10:23 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR3A =
Leaf Spring front pin/bolt<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>So what's =
the collective wisdom for getting that $*@(ing thing =
out?<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Art.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>TS64989LO<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></body></html>
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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2015 08:49:31 -0700

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Art --

For a couple of years I soaked mine in PBlaster every time I was working in
the area, I also cleaned the threads and put a bolt in them to keep them
clean.

When the day came to remove one (broken spring) I used a method outlined by
Randall that applies a length of all-thread and an assortment of sockets,
washers and a nut to pull it out.

Came out as smoothly as a cork from a wine bottle.

YMMV (by quite a bit apparently).

Geo

On Fri, Sep 18, 2015 at 7:23 AM, Art McEwen <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Art --</div><div><br></div><div>For a couple of years=
 I soaked mine in PBlaster every time I was working in the area, I also cle=
aned the threads and put a bolt in them to keep them clean.</div><div><br><=
/div><div>When the day came to remove one (broken spring) I used a method o=
utlined by Randall that applies a length of all-thread and an assortment of=
 sockets, washers and a nut to pull it out.</div><div><br></div><div>Came o=
ut as smoothly as a cork from a wine bottle.</div><div><br></div><div>YMMV =
(by quite a bit apparently).</div><div><br></div><div>Geo</div></div><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Fri, Sep 18, 2015 at=
 7:23 AM, Art McEwen <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:amcewen2@cogec=
o.ca" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockq=
uote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc =
solid;padding-left:1ex">So what&#39;s the collective wisdom for getting tha=
t $*@(ing thing out?<div><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><div><br></div><div>Ar=
t.</div><div>TS64989LO</div>
<br><br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> *=
*<br>
<br>
=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"n=
oreferrer">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
hs/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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From: "Art McEwen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2015 13:37:13 -0400

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Thanks Randall, I'll have to lie under the car to study your method before I fully understand.

Art.

On 09/18/15, Randall  <[email-masked]> wrote:
> My method:
> 
> Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
> but double-check that)
> 
> Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks beforehand.
> 
> Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head. 
> 
> Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the little tab on the frame). Cut a piece of all-thread
> about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of the pin. Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best
> lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out as far as the socket will allow. Took a bunch of torque
> (I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against) but the pin moved before anything broke. Add a suitable
> spacer and pull some more. Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin falls out. I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they
> were looking worn.
> 
> Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH. I've always succeeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's
> actually easier than taking the body off <g>
> 
> If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before reinstallation, it will pop right out next time.
> 
> -- Randall 
> 
> 
> 

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Thanks Randall=2C I=27ll have to lie under the car to study your method =
before I fully understand=2E=3Cdiv=3E=3Cbr /=3E=3C/div=3E=3Cdiv=3EArt=2E=
=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3E=3Cspan=3EOn 09/18/15=2C =3Cb class=3D=22name=22=3ER=
andall =3C/b=3E =26lt=3BTR3driver=40ca=2Err=2Ecom=26gt=3B wrote=3A=3C/sp=
an=3E=3Cblockquote cite=3D=22mid=3A11=2EF9=2E13021=2E2193CF55=40cdptpa-o=
edge01=22 class=3D=22iwcQuote=22 style=3D=22border-left=3A 1px solid =23=
00F=3B padding-left=3A 13px=3B margin-left=3A 0=3B=22 type=3D=22cite=22=3E=
=3Cdiv class=3D=22mimepart text plain=22=3EMy method=3A=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=
=3EHardened all-thread=2C hardened nuts=2C extra thick hardened flat was=
hers (aka setup washers) all from MMC=2E (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF=2C=3C=
br /=3Ebut double-check that)=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3ESoak the pin in PBB (or=
 your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks beforehand=2E=3Cbr /=3E=
=3Cbr /=3EUse a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head=2E =3C=
br /=3E=3Cbr /=3EFind a suitable socket that will just fit over the head=
 of the pin (and the little tab on the frame)=2E=A0 Cut a piece of all-t=
hread=3Cbr /=3Eabout 4=26quot=3B long=2C and use double nuts to lightly =
torque it into the head of the pin=2E=A0 Remove the nuts=2C lube the thr=
eads with the best=3Cbr /=3Elube you=27ve got=2C then use the setup wash=
er and one nut to pull the pin out as far as the socket will allow=2E=A0=
 Took a bunch of torque=3Cbr /=3E(I used an extra-long box end wrench an=
d grabbed the car to pull against) but the pin moved before anything bro=
ke=2E=A0 Add a suitable=3Cbr /=3Espacer and pull some more=2E=A0 Lather=2C=
 rinse=2C repeat until the pin falls out=2E=A0 I replaced the nut =26amp=
=3B all-thread once or twice=2C as they=3Cbr /=3Ewere looking worn=2E=3C=
br /=3E=3Cbr /=3EOr=3B take the body off and commence pounding with a BF=
H=2E=A0 I=27ve always succeeded with the first method but I=27m not cert=
ain it=27s=3Cbr /=3Eactually easier than taking the body off =26lt=3Bg=26=
gt=3B=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3EIf you grease the pin up good with copper-based=
 anti-seize before reinstallation=2C it will pop right out next time=2E=3C=
br /=3E=3Cbr /=3E-- Randall=A0 =3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3E=3C/div=3E=3C/blockqu=
ote=3E=3C/div=3E

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From: "Art McEwen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2015 19:57:58 +0000

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What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?

https://www.drop=
box.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0

> On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 =
PM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:
> Hardened al=
l-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka setup washers=
) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
>=
 Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks be=
forehand.
> Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head. 
=
> 
> Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and=
 the little tab on the frame).  Cut a piece of all-thread
> about 4" long, a=
nd use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of the pin.  Remove the=
 nuts, lube the threads with the best
> lube you've got, then use the setup =
washer and one nut to pull the pin out as far as the socket will allow.  Took=
 a bunch of torque
> (I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the ca=
r to pull against) but the pin moved before anything broke.  Add a suitable
=
> spacer and pull some more.  Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin falls out. =
 I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they
> were looking worn.=

> 
> Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH.  I've always =
succeeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's
> actually easier t=
han taking the body off <g>
> 
> If you grease the pin up good with copper-=
based anti-seize before reinstallation, it will pop right out next time.
=

> -- Randall  

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div></div><div>What happens if somebody has=
 welded the old pin in place?</div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"http://x.jt=
rk1.net/z.z?l=3DaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20vcy9qMzNuODU4dzBwcDBidHgvaW1nX=
zA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&amp;r=3D5442752742&amp;d=3D737223&amp;p=3D1&amp;t=3Dh&h=
=3Db60c1dc779937842d1b11854076cb5a7">https://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0bt=
x/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0</a></div><div><br>On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall=
 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote=
:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><span>My method:</span><br><spa=
n></span><br><span>Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened f=
lat washers (aka setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,</s=
pan><br><span>but double-check that)</span><br><span></span><br><span>Soak th=
e pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks beforehand=
.</span><br><span></span><br><span>Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threa=
ds in the head. </span><br><span></span><br><span>Find a suitable socket that=
 will just fit over the head of the pin (and the little tab on the frame). &n=
bsp;Cut a piece of all-thread</span><br><span>about 4" long, and use double n=
uts to lightly torque it into the head of the pin. &nbsp;Remove the nuts, lub=
e the threads with the best</span><br><span>lube you've got, then use the set=
up washer and one nut to pull the pin out as far as the socket will allow. &n=
bsp;Took a bunch of torque</span><br><span>(I used an extra-long box end wren=
ch and grabbed the car to pull against) but the pin moved before anything bro=
ke. &nbsp;Add a suitable</span><br><span>spacer and pull some more. &nbsp;Lat=
her, rinse, repeat until the pin falls out. &nbsp;I replaced the nut &amp; al=
l-thread once or twice, as they</span><br><span>were looking worn.</span><br>=
<span></span><br><span>Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH=
. &nbsp;I've always succeeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's<=
/span><br><span>actually easier than taking the body off &lt;g&gt;</span><br>=
<span></span><br><span>If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-s=
eize before reinstallation, it will pop right out next time.</span><br><span>=
</span><br><span>-- Randall &nbsp;</span><br><span></span><br></div></blockqu=
ote><img src=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=3D5442752742&amp;d=3D737223" alt=3D"=
"></body></html>

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From: Michael Marr <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2015 21:14:11 +0000

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	boundary="_000_D9819836B0A14122A74CECE38F818B79albiontechnicalcom_"

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Art:

It has been a while since I changed a TR3a spring, but I believe that you w=
ill find that the tube in which the pin fits is what is welded to the frame=
. The pin has a head that is the same diameter as the OD of the tube, so at=
 first glance it looks like the pin is welded, whereas, in fact, it is just=
 the tube that is welded. That's my recollection, at least.

Mike

Sent from my iPhone

ogeco.ca>> wrote:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0<http://x.jtrk=
1.net/z.z?l=3DaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20vcy9qMzNuODU4dzBwcDBidHgvaW1nX=
zA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&r=3D5442752742&d=3D737223&p=3D1&t=3Dh&h=3Db60c1dc7799=
37842d1b11854076cb5a7>

@ca.rr.com>> wrote:

My method:

Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka =
setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
but double-check that)

Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks b=
eforehand.

Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the=
 little tab on the frame).  Cut a piece of all-thread
about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of th=
e pin.  Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best
lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out =
as far as the socket will allow.  Took a bunch of torque
(I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against) b=
ut the pin moved before anything broke.  Add a suitable
spacer and pull some more.  Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin falls out. =
 I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they
were looking worn.

Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH.  I've always succee=
ded with the first method but I'm not certain it's
actually easier than taking the body off <g>

If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before reinstall=
ation, it will pop right out next time.

-- Randall

[http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=3D5442752742&d=3D737223]

biontechnical.com

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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"=
</head>
<body dir=3D"auto">
<div>Art:</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>It has been a while since I changed a TR3a spring, but I believe that =
you will find that the tube in which the pin fits is what is welded to the =
frame. The pin has a head that is the same diameter as the OD of the tube, =
so at first glance it looks like
 the pin is welded, whereas, in fact, it is just the tube that is welded. T=
hat's my recollection, at least.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Mike<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div><br>
On Sep 29, 2015, at 14:58, Art McEwen &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:amcewen2@cogeco=
.ca">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<div></div>
<div>What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><a href=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/z.z?l=3DaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20v=
cy9qMzNuODU4dzBwcDBidHgvaW1nXzA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&amp;r=3D5442752742&amp;d=
=3D737223&amp;p=3D1&amp;t=3Dh&amp;h=3Db60c1dc779937842d1b11854076cb5a7">htt=
ps://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0</a></div>
<div><br>
On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div><span>My method:</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers=
 (aka setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,</span><br>
<span>but double-check that)</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several w=
eeks beforehand.</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head. </span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (a=
nd the little tab on the frame). &nbsp;Cut a piece of all-thread</span><br>
<span>about 4&quot; long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the=
 head of the pin. &nbsp;Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best</sp=
an><br>
<span>lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pi=
n out as far as the socket will allow. &nbsp;Took a bunch of torque</span><=
br>
<span>(I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull agai=
nst) but the pin moved before anything broke. &nbsp;Add a suitable</span><b=
r>
<span>spacer and pull some more. &nbsp;Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin =
falls out. &nbsp;I replaced the nut &amp; all-thread once or twice, as they=
</span><br>
<span>were looking worn.</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH. &nbsp;I've al=
ways succeeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's</span><br>
<span>actually easier than taking the body off &lt;g&gt;</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before rei=
nstallation, it will pop right out next time.</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>-- Randall &nbsp;</span><br>
<span></span><br>
</div>
</blockquote>
<img src=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=3D5442752742&amp;d=3D737223" alt=3D"">=
 </div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div><span></span><br>
<span>** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
</a> **</span><br>
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</blockquote>
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