Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2015 09:17:27 -0700

My method:

Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
but double-check that)

Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks beforehand.

Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head. 

Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the little tab on the frame).  Cut a piece of all-thread
about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of the pin.  Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best
lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out as far as the socket will allow.  Took a bunch of torque
(I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against) but the pin moved before anything broke.  Add a suitable
spacer and pull some more.  Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin falls out.  I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they
were looking worn.

Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH.  I've always succeeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's
actually easier than taking the body off <g>

If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before reinstallation, it will pop right out next time.

-- Randall  

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

---

From: Frank Fisher <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2015 21:41:49 +0000 (UTC)

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you will also find that the head of the pin has a shoulder cut into it. so =
the head looks like a "D" shape.=C2=A0the tube that it fits through is cut =
away so that it fits flush.
frank
      From: Michael Marr <[email-masked]>
 To: Art McEwen <[email-masked]>=20
Cc: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>; Randall <TR3driver=
@ca.rr.com>=20
 Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 2:14 PM
 Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt
  =20
Art:
It has been a while since I changed a TR3a spring, but I believe that you w=
ill find that the tube in which the pin fits is what is welded to the frame=
. The pin has a head that is the same diameter as the OD of the tube, so at=
 first glance it looks like the pin is welded, whereas, in fact, it is just=
 the tube that is welded. That's my recollection, at least.=C2=A0
Mike

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 29, 2015, at 14:58, Art McEwen <[email-masked]> wrote:

What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0
On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:

My method:

Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka =
setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
but double-check that)

Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks b=
eforehand.

Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head.=20

Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the=
 little tab on the frame). =C2=A0Cut a piece of all-thread
about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of th=
e pin. =C2=A0Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best
lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out =
as far as the socket will allow. =C2=A0Took a bunch of torque
(I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against) b=
ut the pin moved before anything broke. =C2=A0Add a suitable
spacer and pull some more. =C2=A0Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin falls =
out. =C2=A0I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they
were looking worn.

Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH. =C2=A0I've always s=
ucceeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's
actually easier than taking the body off <g>

If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before reinstall=
ation, it will pop right out next time.

-- Randall =C2=A0

=20

biontechnical.com

[email-masked]

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<html><body><div style=3D"color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:He=
lveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:16px"><div><span>you will also find that the head of the pin has a =
shoulder cut into it. so the head looks like a "D" shape.&nbsp;</span></div=
><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>the tube that it fits through is cut away so that i=
t fits flush.</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span><br></span></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14758"><span>frank</span></div><b=
r>  <div style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Ar=
ial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_144354=
7637366_14660"> <div style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, H=
elvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;" id=3D"yui_3_1=
6_0_1_1443547637366_14659"> <div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_14435476373=
66_14658"> <hr size=3D"1">  <font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial" id=3D"yui_3_16_=
0_1_1443547637366_14661"> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold;">From:</span>=
</b> Michael Marr &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br> <b><span style=3D"f=
ont-weight: bold;">To:</span></b> Art McEwen &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br=
><b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Cc:</span></b> "[email-masked].=
net" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; Randall &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <=
br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> Tuesday, Septemb=
er 29, 2015 2:14 PM<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Subject:</spa=
n></b> Re: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt<br> </font> </div> <div cla=
ss=3D"y_msg_container" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14759"><br><div id=
=3D"yiv7129330502"><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14761">
<div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14760">Art:</div>
<div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14762"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14763">It has been a while since I ch=
anged a TR3a spring, but I believe that you will find that the tube in whic=
h the pin fits is what is welded to the frame. The pin has a head that is t=
he same diameter as the OD of the tube, so at first glance it looks like
 the pin is welded, whereas, in fact, it is just the tube that is welded. T=
hat's my recollection, at least.&nbsp;</div>
<div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14764"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14765">Mike<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div class=3D"qtdSeparateBR"><br><br></div><div class=3D"yiv7129330502yqt32=
71690246" id=3D"yiv7129330502yqt03026"><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_144354763736=
6_14766"><br clear=3D"none">
On Sep 29, 2015, at 14:58, Art McEwen &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect=
" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:am=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<div></div>
<div>What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://x.=
jtrk1.net/z.z?l=3DaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20vcy9qMzNuODU4dzBwcDBidHgva=
W1nXzA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&amp;r=3D5442752742&amp;d=3D737223&amp;p=3D1&amp;t=
=3Dh&amp;h=3Db60c1dc779937842d1b11854076cb5a7">https://www.dropbox.com/s/j3=
3n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0</a></div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect=
" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:T=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div><span>My method:</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers=
 (aka setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,</span><br c=
lear=3D"none">
<span>but double-check that)</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several w=
eeks beforehand.</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head. </span><br =
clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (a=
nd the little tab on the frame). &nbsp;Cut a piece of all-thread</span><br =
clear=3D"none">
<span>about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head=
 of the pin. &nbsp;Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best</span><b=
r clear=3D"none">
<span>lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pi=
n out as far as the socket will allow. &nbsp;Took a bunch of torque</span><=
br clear=3D"none">
<span>(I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull agai=
nst) but the pin moved before anything broke. &nbsp;Add a suitable</span><b=
r clear=3D"none">
<span>spacer and pull some more. &nbsp;Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin =
falls out. &nbsp;I replaced the nut &amp; all-thread once or twice, as they=
</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>were looking worn.</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH. &nbsp;I've al=
ways succeeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's</span><br cle=
ar=3D"none">
<span>actually easier than taking the body off &lt;g&gt;</span><br clear=3D=
"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before rei=
nstallation, it will pop right out next time.</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>-- Randall &nbsp;</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
</blockquote>
<img src=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=3D5442752742&amp;d=3D737223" alt=3D"" =
data-id=3D"d7bd738f-fccc-8772-a488-07b36e2eede2"> </div>
</blockquote></div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div><span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>** <a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:triumphs@auto=
x.team.net" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">trium=
[email-masked]</a> **</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>Donate: <a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"=
<br clear=3D"none">
<span>Archive: <a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_blank" href=3D=
"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br cle=
ar=3D"none">
<span>Forums: <a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"=
http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br clear=
=3D"none">
<span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_bla=
nk" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr@albiontech=
nical.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a=
></span><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
</blockquote>
</div></div><br><div class=3D"yqt3271690246" id=3D"yqt07365"><br clear=3D"n=
one">** <a shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **<br clear=
=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">Donate: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.t=
eam.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><=
br clear=3D"none">Archive: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/ar=
chive" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br clear=3D"none">=
Forums: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_bl=
ank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br clear=3D"none">Unsubscribe/Manage: <=
a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yel=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/t=
riumphs/[email-masked]</a><br clear=3D"none"></div><br><br></div> </di=
v> </div>  </div></body></html>
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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2015 14:47:45 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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That would indeed be a problem; but as Michael said, I don't believe that is the case in your photo.  

-- Randall 

  _____  

From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Art McEwen
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 12:58 PM
To: Randall
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=0
<http://x.jtrk1.net/z.z?l=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20vcy9qMzNuODU4dzBwcDBidHgvaW1nXzA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&r=5442752742&d=737223&p
=1&t=h&h=b60c1dc779937842d1b11854076cb5a7> 

My method:

-- Randall  

  <http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=5442752742&d=737223> 

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588"></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dauto>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D634074621-29092015><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial>That would indeed be a problem; but as Michael =
said, I don't=20
believe that is the case in your photo.&nbsp; </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><!-- Converted from text/plain format -->
<P><FONT size=3D2>-- Randall </FONT></P>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: =
5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV dir=3Dltr lang=3Den-us class=3DOutlookMessageHeader align=3Dleft>
  <HR tabIndex=3D-1>
  <FONT size=3D2 face=3DTahoma><B>From:</B> Triumphs=20
  [mailto:[email-masked]] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Art=20
  McEwen<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 29, 2015 12:58 =
PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
  Randall<BR><B>Cc:</B> [email-masked]<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: =
[TR] TR3A=20
  Leaf Spring front pin/bolt<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV>What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/z.z?l=3DaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20vcy9qMz=
NuODU4dzBwcDBidHgvaW1nXzA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&amp;r=3D5442752742&amp;d=3D7=
37223&amp;p=3D1&amp;t=3Dh&amp;h=3Db60c1dc779937842d1b11854076cb5a7">https=
://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0</A></DIV>
  <DIV><BR>On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall &lt;<A=20
  href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A>&gt;=20
  wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE type=3D"cite">
    <DIV><SPAN>My method:</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Hardened =
all-thread,=20
    hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka setup washers) =
all=20
    from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,</SPAN><BR><SPAN>but =
double-check=20
    that)</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Soak the pin in PBB (or your =
choice=20
    of penetrating oil) for several weeks=20
    beforehand.</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Use a bottoming tap to =
clean=20
    out the threads in the head. </SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Find =
a=20
    suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the =
little=20
    tab on the frame). &nbsp;Cut a piece of =
all-thread</SPAN><BR><SPAN>about 4"=20
    long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of the =
pin.=20
    &nbsp;Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the =
best</SPAN><BR><SPAN>lube=20
    you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin =
out as far=20
    as the socket will allow. &nbsp;Took a bunch of =
torque</SPAN><BR><SPAN>(I=20
    used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull =
against) but=20
    the pin moved before anything broke. &nbsp;Add a=20
    suitable</SPAN><BR><SPAN>spacer and pull some more. &nbsp;Lather, =
rinse,=20
    repeat until the pin falls out. &nbsp;I replaced the nut &amp; =
all-thread=20
    once or twice, as they</SPAN><BR><SPAN>were looking=20
    worn.</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Or; take the body off and =
commence=20
    pounding with a BFH. &nbsp;I've always succeeded with the first =
method but=20
    I'm not certain it's</SPAN><BR><SPAN>actually easier than taking the =
body=20
    off &lt;g&gt;</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>If you grease the pin =
up good=20
    with copper-based anti-seize before reinstallation, it will pop =
right out=20
    next time.</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>-- Randall=20
    &nbsp;</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=3D""=20
  src=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=3D5442752742&amp;d=3D737223" =
NOSEND=3D"1">=20
</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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---

From: "Art McEwen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2015 21:54:05 +0000

--===============4271575176593755182==
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--Apple-Mail-F1B45530-F3E4-4B63-BF03-426AF24005B0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The new pins arrived today, with hi resolution and max zoom I can almost beli=
eve I can see that shape in the old ones (or it could be anything).   More pb=
 blaster I guess. 

> On Sep 29, 2015, at 5:47 PM, Randall <[email-masked]=
.com> wrote:
> 
> That would indeed be a problem; but as Michael said, I do=
n't believe that is the case in your photo. 
=

> From: Triumphs [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Art M=
cEwen
> Cc: tri=
[email-masked]

> https://=
www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0
>> On Sep 18, 2015=
=

>> Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (ak=
a setup washers) all      from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
>> but doub=
le-check that)
>> 
>> Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oi=
l) for several weeks beforehand.
>> 
>> Use a bottoming tap to clean out th=
e threads in the head. 
>> 
>> Find a suitable socket that will just fit ov=
er the head of the pin (and the little tab on the frame).  Cut a piece of all=
-thread
>> about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the =
head of the pin.  Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best
>> lube yo=
u've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out as far as=
 the socket will allow.  Took a bunch of torque
>> (I used an extra-long box=
 end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against) but the pin moved before any=
thing broke.  Add a suitable
>> spacer and pull some more.  Lather, rinse, r=
epeat until the pin falls out.  I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice=
, as they
>> were looking worn.
>> 
>> Or; take the body off and commence =
pounding with a BFH.  I've always succeeded with the first method but I'm not=
 certain it's
>> If yo=
u grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before reinstallation, =
it will pop right out next time.
>> -- Randall  

--Apple-Mail-F1B45530-F3E4-4B63-BF03-426AF24005B0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div></div><div>The new pins arrived
today, with hi resolution and max zoom I can almost believe I can see that
shape in the old ones (or it could be anything). &nbsp; More pb blaster I
guess.&nbsp;</div><div><br>On Sep 29, 2015, at 5:47 PM, Randall &lt;<a
href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>

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<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="634074621-29092015"><font
color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">That would indeed be a problem; but as
Michael said, I don't 
believe that is the case in your photo.&nbsp; </font></span></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div><!-- Converted from text/plain format -->
<p><font size="2">-- Randall </font></p>
<div>&nbsp;</div><br>
<blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px;
MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <div dir="ltr" lang="en-us" class="OutlookMessageHeader" align="left">
  <hr tabindex="-1">
  <font size="2" face="Tahoma"><b>From:</b> Triumphs 
  [<a
href="mailto:[email-masked]">mailto:[email-masked]</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Art 
  McEwen<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, September 29, 2015 12:58 PM<br><b>To:</b> 
  Randall<br><b>Cc:</b> <a
href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br><b>Subject:</b>
Re: [TR] TR3A 
  Leaf Spring front pin/bolt<br></font><br></div>
  <div></div>
  <div></div>
  <div>What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?</div>
  <div><br></div>
  <div><a
href="http://x.jtrk1.net/z.z?l=aHR0cDovL3guanRyazEubmV0L3ouej9sPWFIUjBjSE02THk5M2QzY3VaSEp2Y0dKdmVDNWpiMjB2Y3k5cU16TnVPRFU0ZHpCd2NEQmlkSGd2YVcxblh6QTFPVEV1YW5CblAyUnNQVEElM2QmYW1wO3I9NTQ0Mjc1Mjc0MiZhbXA7ZD03MzcyMjMmYW1wO3A9MSZhbXA7dD1oJmFtcDtoPWI2MGMxZGM3Nzk5Mzc4NDJkMWIxMTg1NDA3NmNiNWE3&amp;r=5442967324&amp;d=737223&amp;p=1&amp;t=h&h=854e7372216941b9473bc39ebffe2b36">https://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=0</a></div>
  <div><br>On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall &lt;<a
href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; 
  wrote:<br><br></div>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <div><span>My method:</span><br><span></span><br><span>Hardened
all-thread, 
    hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka setup washers) all

    from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,</span><br><span>but double-check 
    that)</span><br><span></span><br><span>Soak the pin in PBB (or your
choice 
    of penetrating oil) for several weeks 
    beforehand.</span><br><span></span><br><span>Use a bottoming tap to
clean 
    out the threads in the head. </span><br><span></span><br><span>Find a 
    suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the
little 
    tab on the frame). &nbsp;Cut a piece of all-thread</span><br><span>about
4" 
    long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of the pin.

    &nbsp;Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the
best</span><br><span>lube 
    you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out as
far 
    as the socket will allow. &nbsp;Took a bunch of
torque</span><br><span>(I 
    used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against)
but 
    the pin moved before anything broke. &nbsp;Add a 
    suitable</span><br><span>spacer and pull some more. &nbsp;Lather, rinse,

    repeat until the pin falls out. &nbsp;I replaced the nut &amp;
all-thread 
    once or twice, as they</span><br><span>were looking 
    worn.</span><br><span></span><br><span>Or; take the body off and
commence 
    pounding with a BFH. &nbsp;I've always succeeded with the first method
but 
    I'm not certain it's</span><br><span>actually easier than taking the
body 
    off &lt;g&gt;</span><br><span></span><br><span>If you grease the pin up
good 
    with copper-based anti-seize before reinstallation, it will pop right
out 
    next time.</span><br><span></span><br><span>-- Randall 
    &nbsp;</span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote><img alt=""
src="http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=5442752742&amp;d=737223" nosend="1"> 
</blockquote>
</div></blockquote><img
src="http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=5442967324&amp;d=737223" alt=""></body></html>
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