Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 road draft tube plug

From: Alan Myers <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 16:48:04 -0400

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... Then at
engine number CT14234E through end of TR4 production the
cars had air
filters with vent openings coming from a flame trap from the valve
cover
along with a "sealed" valve cover cap and no road draft tube.  TR4As had
a
gulp valve with a vented (1/8" metered opening in the cap) valve cover
cap
and no road draft tube.  This information was found in Service
Bulletin

I can tell you for certain that's incorrect. The change from open breathing to flame-trap, etc. came later than that.
 
CT17791E (fitted to CT17602L, built in late October, 1962) originally had the vented cap and the road draft tube. 
 
The cap is the push on type, has big vents on the underside and filled with coarse  "steel wool" to reduce oil spray, I'm sure. 
 
The road draft (or draught, I suppose) tube is large diameter, press fit into the side of the block and locked in place with two screws (maybe 1/4 or 5/16"). 
 
The original valve cover has no vent, but it does have a large brass plug where one could be fitted. 

Never had a problem with oil out of the push on cap or an unusual amount of leaks.... but the road draft tube kept most of the underside of the car rust free! 
 
The car now has an aftermarket cast alu valve cover with a breather pipe and a low profile, twist-in filler cap (with a single, tiny breather hole). 
 
I've replaced the road draft tube, but didn't plug it. It now has a nipple for a 1/2" or larger hose fitting. I don't think it's a good idea to completely seal up the bottom end of the engine. It needs to be able to breathe, same as the top end. 

Car is not yet back on the road, but when it is the plan is  to have a catch tank or can fitted with a breather cap, with hoses running from both the valve cover and the fitting at the draft tube.

I intend to use a catch can similar to this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jrc-555-6402

Alan Myers 
San Jose Calif. 
'62 TR4 CT17602L
[email-masked]
http://www.triumphowners.com/to-car/tr4-14/

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<font color='black' size='2' face='Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'>
<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div style="color: black; font-family: arial,helvetica; font-size: 10pt;"><blockquote style="padding-left: 3px; border-left-color: blue; border-left-width: 2px; border-left-style: solid;"><pre><tt>... Then at
engine number CT14234E through end of TR4 production the
cars had air
filters with vent openings coming from a flame trap from the valve
cover
along with a "sealed" valve cover cap and no road draft tube.  TR4As had
a
gulp valve with a vented (1/8" metered opening in the cap) valve cover
cap
and no road draft tube.  This information was found in Service
Bulletin</tt></pre></blockquote></div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>&nbsp;
<div>I can tell you for certain that's incorrect. The change from open breathing to flame-trap, etc. came later than that.</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>CT17791E (fitted to&nbsp;CT17602L, built in late October, 1962) originally had the vented cap and the road draft tube. </div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>The cap is the push on type, has big vents on the underside and filled with coarse &nbsp;"steel wool" to reduce oil spray, I'm sure. </div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>The road draft (or draught, I suppose) tube is large diameter, press fit into the side of the block and locked in place with two screws (maybe 1/4 or 5/16"). </div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>The original valve cover has no vent, but it does have a large brass plug where one could be fitted. </div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>Never had a problem with oil out of the push on cap or an unusual amount of leaks.... but the road draft tube kept most of the underside of the car rust free! </div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>The car now has an aftermarket cast alu valve cover with a breather pipe and a low profile, twist-in filler cap (with a single, tiny breather hole). </div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>I've replaced the road draft tube, but didn't plug it. It now has a nipple for a 1/2" or larger&nbsp;hose fitting. I don't think it's a good idea to completely&nbsp;seal up&nbsp;the bottom end of the engine. It needs to be able to breathe, same as the top end. <br>
<br>
Car is not yet back on the road, but when it is&nbsp;the plan is&nbsp; to&nbsp;have a catch tank or can&nbsp;fitted with a breather cap, with hoses running from both the valve cover and the fitting at the draft tube.</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>I intend to use a catch can similar to this: <a href="http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jrc-555-6402">http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jrc-555-6402</a></div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>

<div style="clear: both;">
<div><font size="3">Alan Myers</font> </div>

<div>San Jose Calif. </div>

<div>'62 TR4 CT17602L</div>

<div><a href="mailto:[email-masked]" saprocessedanchor="true">[email-masked]</a></div>

<div><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/to-car/tr4-14/">http://www.triumphowners.com/to-car/tr4-14/</a></div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>

<div><br>

</div>

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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---

From: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 17:32:28 -0400

On Tue, Sep 8, 2015 at 4:48 PM, Alan Myers <[email-masked]> wrote:
> I've replaced the road draft tube, but didn't plug it. It now has a nipple
> for a 1/2" or larger hose fitting. I don't think it's a good idea to
> completely seal up the bottom end of the engine. It needs to be able to
> breathe, same as the top end.

Aren't the two ends connected by the pushrod openings?

---

From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 20:55:53 -0400

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--001a1135fbe2cb5061051f45f12c

Alan,

So much for the official Triumph documentation!

Does anyone know why the real early TR4s (and I think late TR3Bs) had the
brass plug in the top of the valve cover?  I've never seen anything
relating to that plug written anywhere.

I don't think the bottom end can be completely sealed due to the openings
for the push rods.  When the switch was made to the "sealed" system the
draft tube went away for good.

Thanks,

Brad

On Tue, Sep 8, 2015 at 4:48 PM, Alan Myers <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I can tell you for certain that's incorrect. The change from open
> breathing to flame-trap, etc. came later than that.
>
> The cap is the push on type, has big vents on the underside and filled
> with coarse  "steel wool" to reduce oil spray, I'm sure.
>
> The road draft (or draught, I suppose) tube is large diameter, press fit
> into the side of the block and locked in place with two screws (maybe 1/4
> or 5/16").
>
> Never had a problem with oil out of the push on cap or an unusual amount
> of leaks.... but the road draft tube kept most of the underside of the car
> rust free!
>
> The car now has an aftermarket cast alu valve cover with a breather pipe
> and a low profile, twist-in filler cap (with a single, tiny breather hole).
>
> Car is not yet back on the road, but when it is the plan is  to have a
> catch tank or can fitted with a breather cap, with hoses running from both
> the valve cover and the fitting at the draft tube.
>
> I intend to use a catch can similar to this:
> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jrc-555-6402
>
> Alan Myers
> San Jose Calif.
> '62 TR4 CT17602L
> [email-masked]

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Alan,=C2=A0<div><br></div><div>So much for the official Tr=
iumph documentation! =C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Does anyone know why t=
he real early TR4s (and I think late TR3Bs) had the brass plug in the top o=
f the valve cover?=C2=A0 I&#39;ve never seen anything relating to that plug=
 written anywhere.</div><div><br></div><div>I don&#39;t think the bottom en=
d can be completely sealed due to the openings for the push rods.=C2=A0 Whe=
n the switch was made to the &quot;sealed&quot; system the draft tube went =
away for good.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><div><br></div><div>Br=
ad</div><div><br><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">=
On Tue, Sep 8, 2015 at 4:48 PM, Alan Myers <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> w=
rote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;borde=
r-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><font color=3D"black" size=3D"2" fa=
ce=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">
<div>=C2=A0</div>

<div style=3D"color:black;font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt"><bloc=
kquote style=3D"padding-left:3px;border-left-color:blue;border-left-width:2=
px;border-left-style:solid"><pre><tt>... Then at
engine number CT14234E through end of TR4 production the
cars had air
filters with vent openings coming from a flame trap from the valve
cover
along with a &quot;sealed&quot; valve cover cap and no road draft tube.  TR=
4As had
a
gulp valve with a vented (1/8&quot; metered opening in the cap) valve cover
cap
and no road draft tube.  This information was found in Service
Bulletin</tt></pre></blockquote></div>

<div>=C2=A0</div>

<div>=C2=A0
<div>I can tell you for certain that&#39;s incorrect. The change from open =
breathing to flame-trap, etc. came later than that.</div>

<div>=C2=A0</div>

<div>CT17791E (fitted to=C2=A0CT17602L, built in late October, 1962) origin=
ally had the vented cap and the road draft tube. </div>

<div>=C2=A0</div>

<div>The cap is the push on type, has big vents on the underside and filled=
 with coarse =C2=A0&quot;steel wool&quot; to reduce oil spray, I&#39;m sure=
. </div>

<div>=C2=A0</div>

<div>The road draft (or draught, I suppose) tube is large diameter, press f=
it into the side of the block and locked in place with two screws (maybe 1/=
4 or 5/16&quot;). </div>

<div>=C2=A0</div>

<div>The original valve cover has no vent, but it does have a large brass p=
lug where one could be fitted. </div>

<div>=C2=A0</div>

<div>Never had a problem with oil out of the push on cap or an unusual amou=
nt of leaks.... but the road draft tube kept most of the underside of the c=
ar rust free! </div>

<div>=C2=A0</div>

<div>The car now has an aftermarket cast alu valve cover with a breather pi=
pe and a low profile, twist-in filler cap (with a single, tiny breather hol=
e). </div>

<div>=C2=A0</div>

<div>I&#39;ve replaced the road draft tube, but didn&#39;t plug it. It now =
has a nipple for a 1/2&quot; or larger=C2=A0hose fitting. I don&#39;t think=
 it&#39;s a good idea to completely=C2=A0seal up=C2=A0the bottom end of the=
 engine. It needs to be able to breathe, same as the top end. <br>
<br>
Car is not yet back on the road, but when it is=C2=A0the plan is=C2=A0 to=
=C2=A0have a catch tank or can=C2=A0fitted with a breather cap, with hoses =
running from both the valve cover and the fitting at the draft tube.</div>

<div>=C2=A0</div>

<div>I intend to use a catch can similar to this: <a href=3D"http://www.sum=
mitracing.com/parts/jrc-555-6402" target=3D"_blank">http://www.summitracing=
.com/parts/jrc-555-6402</a></div><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888=
888">

<div>=C2=A0</div>
</font></span></div><span class=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888">

<div style=3D"clear:both">
<div><font size=3D"3">Alan Myers</font> </div>

<div>&#39;62 TR4 CT17602L</div>

<div><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</=
a></div>

<div><a href=3D"http://www.triumphowners.com/to-car/tr4-14/" target=3D"_bla=
nk">http://www.triumphowners.com/to-car/tr4-14/</a></div>

<div>=C2=A0</div>

<div>=C2=A0</div></div></font></span></font></blockquote></div></div></div>=
</div>

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From: "Ron L'Herault" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2015 09:16:26 -0400

Nah, I hate airports.  I'd go by train though.

Ron L

---------------------
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 07:42:16 -0400
From: Dave <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] carbon canister

Perhaps you haven't removed his canisters yet but if he pops for air fare
you'd be happy to, right?

Dave Massey

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron L'Herault <[email-masked]>

I have not removed the carbon canister from your 73 Stag or anyone else's.
Indeed, the carbon canister is still in my '73 TR-6.

Ron
L

---

From: "Dave Connitt" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2015 18:30:06 -0400 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00CE_01D0ECBF.E22EA200"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hi Alan,
I enjoyed reading about your TR4 on your website. I have a TR4A that is =
finally back on the road after 15 years. The reason I am writing you is =
that I have been working through crankcase breathing issues since =
getting the car drivable about 1-1/2 years ago.
I have a aluminum valve cover on my engine which as you know has a =
spigot for the gulp valve but is missing a baffle to keep the oil mist =
from being sucked directly into the intake manifold. I discovered this =
by accident though.. When I originally had the head rebuilt back in =
2007, the machinist installed bronze valve guides which was OK I suppose =
but the bad news was that there wasn't enough clearance between the =
valve guide and the valve stem. The result was that if I got about 2,400 =
RPM the valves would start making clicking noises like a collapsed =
hydraulic lifter makes. It seems the valves were sticking in the guides =
at speed.. Ruined my new BP270 camshaft and lifters.. BUT the reason I =
am telling you this is when I had taken the engine apart to fix this =
after only 500 miles of operation, there was a ton of carbon buildup on =
the piston tops, combustion chambers and exhaust ports. The gulp valve =
was completely soaked with oil also.=20
The engine crankcase ventilation system was completely stock at the time =
(minus the fancy aluminum valve cover).  I decided to go "old school TR" =
and install a TR4 road draft tube and figure out something for the valve =
cover breathing. Removing the plug in the side of the block was a giant =
PIA as there is no room down there at all but I finally got it out by =
drilling a hole in the middle of it and screwing a drywall screw in and =
pulling it out that way. After carefully cleaning out all the drill =
filings (not much there at all) I installed the road draft tube. =
Regarding the gulp valve, I removed it and plugged the hole on the =
intake manifold and installed a K&N breather in the spigot on the valve =
cover. The volume of leaking oil diminished greatly but it still leaks =
some. The engine uses about a quart or less of oil every 2,000 miles and =
pretty much all of that is leaks.=20
It's amazing where these engines leak from.. I had moved the ignition =
coil off the block and onto the fender well right across from the =
distributor to keep it cooler. Never understood why they bolted the coil =
to the block?? Anyway, I hadn't replaced the two small bolts in the =
block that hold the coil. I noticed drops of oil spattered on the driver =
side inner fender but couldn't figure out where it was coming from until =
I had a friend rev  the engine while I bent down and watched the engine. =
That was when a drop of oil flew past my head after coming out of one of =
the coil bolt holes!
Back to the venting issue, I have considered replacing the K&N breather =
with a catch tank arrangement. I found there are some two stage designs =
out there that have space to actually distill  the oil mist into a =
liquid but where can you plumb the oil back into the engine? I think if =
you had blanked off the mechanical fuel pump, it would be fairly easy to =
plumb a drain back into the block from the catch tank that way which I =
think is what the GoodParts system does but I am still a fan of the =
mechanical fuel pump so I am stuck..
I am enjoying this thread as this is something I am currently working.
Thanks to all for the good information!
Dave Connitt
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Alan Myers=20
  To: [email-masked]=20
  Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 4:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 road draft tube plug

... Then at
   =20
  I can tell you for certain that's incorrect. The change from open =

  CT17791E (fitted to CT17602L, built in late October, 1962) originally =
had the vented cap and the road draft tube.=20

  The cap is the push on type, has big vents on the underside and filled =
with coarse  "steel wool" to reduce oil spray, I'm sure.=20

  The road draft (or draught, I suppose) tube is large diameter, press =
fit into the side of the block and locked in place with two screws =
(maybe 1/4 or 5/16").=20

  The original valve cover has no vent, but it does have a large brass =
plug where one could be fitted.=20

  Never had a problem with oil out of the push on cap or an unusual =
amount of leaks.... but the road draft tube kept most of the underside =
of the car rust free!=20

  The car now has an aftermarket cast alu valve cover with a breather =
pipe and a low profile, twist-in filler cap (with a single, tiny =
breather hole).=20

  I've replaced the road draft tube, but didn't plug it. It now has a =
nipple for a 1/2" or larger hose fitting. I don't think it's a good idea =
to completely seal up the bottom end of the engine. It needs to be able =
to breathe, same as the top end.=20

  Car is not yet back on the road, but when it is the plan is  to have a =
catch tank or can fitted with a breather cap, with hoses running from =
both the valve cover and the fitting at the draft tube.

  I intend to use a catch can similar to this: =
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jrc-555-6402

  Alan Myers=20
  San Jose Calif.=20
  '62 TR4 CT17602L
  [email-masked]

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----

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  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hi Alan,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I enjoyed reading about your TR4 on your =
website. I have a=20
TR4A that is finally back on the road after 15 years. The reason I am =
writing=20
you is that I have been working through crankcase breathing issues since =
getting=20
the car drivable about 1-1/2 years ago.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I have a aluminum valve cover on my engine which =
as you=20
know has a spigot for the gulp valve but is missing a baffle to keep the =
oil=20
mist from being sucked directly into the intake manifold. I discovered =
this by=20
accident though.. When I originally had the head rebuilt back in 2007, =
the=20
machinist installed bronze valve guides which was OK I suppose but the =
bad news=20
was that there wasn't enough clearance between the valve guide and the =
valve=20
stem. The result was that if I got about 2,400 RPM the valves would =
start making=20
clicking noises like a collapsed hydraulic lifter makes. It seems the =
valves=20
were sticking in the guides at speed.. Ruined my new BP270 camshaft and=20
lifters.. BUT the reason I am telling you this is when I had taken the =
engine=20
apart to fix this after only 500 miles of operation, there was a ton of =
carbon=20
buildup on the piston tops, combustion chambers and exhaust ports. The =
gulp=20
valve was completely soaked with oil also. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>The engine crankcase ventilation system was =
completely=20
stock at the time (minus the fancy aluminum valve cover).&nbsp; I =
decided to go=20
"old school TR" and install a TR4 road draft tube and figure out =
something for=20
the valve cover breathing. Removing the plug in the side of the block =
was a=20
giant PIA as there is no room down there at all but I finally got it out =
by=20
drilling a hole in the middle of it and screwing a drywall screw in and =
pulling=20
it out that way. After carefully cleaning out all the drill filings (not =
much=20
there at all) I installed the road draft tube. Regarding the gulp valve, =
I=20
removed it and plugged the hole on the intake manifold and installed a =
K&amp;N=20
breather in the spigot on the valve cover. The volume of leaking oil =
diminished=20
greatly but it still leaks some. The engine uses about a quart or less =
of oil=20
every 2,000 miles and pretty much all of that is leaks. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>It's amazing where these engines leak from.. I =
had moved=20
the ignition coil off the block and onto the fender well right across =
from the=20
distributor to keep it cooler. Never understood why they bolted the coil =
to the=20
block?? Anyway, I hadn't replaced the two small bolts in the block that =
hold the=20
coil. I noticed drops of oil spattered on the driver side inner fender =
but=20
couldn't figure out where it was coming from until I had a friend =
rev&nbsp; the=20
engine while I bent down and watched the engine. That was when a drop of =
oil=20
flew past my head after coming out of one of the coil bolt =
holes!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Back to the venting issue, I have considered =
replacing the=20
K&amp;N breather with a catch tank arrangement. I found there are some =
two stage=20
designs out there that have&nbsp;space to actually distill &nbsp;the oil =
mist=20
into a liquid but where can you plumb the oil back into the engine? I =
think if=20
you had blanked off the mechanical fuel pump, it would be fairly easy to =
plumb a=20
drain back into the block from the catch tank that way which I think is =
what the=20
GoodParts system does but I am still a fan of the mechanical fuel pump =
so I am=20
stuck..</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I am enjoying this thread as this is something I =
am=20
currently working.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Thanks to all for the good =
information!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Dave Connitt</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=[email-masked] href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Alan =
Myers</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 08, =
2015 4:48=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [TR] TR4 road =
draft tube=20
  plug</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT color=3Dblack size=3D2 face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, =
sans-serif">
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,helvetica; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: =
10pt">
  <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: =
3px"><PRE><TT>... Then at
engine number CT14234E through end of TR4 production the
cars had air
filters with vent openings coming from a flame trap from the valve
cover
along with a "sealed" valve cover cap and no road draft tube.  TR4As had
a
gulp valve with a vented (1/8" metered opening in the cap) valve cover
cap
and no road draft tube.  This information was found in Service
Bulletin</TT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;=20
  <DIV>I can tell you for certain that's incorrect. The change from open =

  breathing to flame-trap, etc. came later than that.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>CT17791E (fitted to&nbsp;CT17602L, built in late October, 1962)=20
  originally had the vented cap and the road draft tube. </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>The cap is the push on type, has big vents on the underside and =
filled=20
  with coarse &nbsp;"steel wool" to reduce oil spray, I'm sure. </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>The road draft (or draught, I suppose) tube is large diameter, =
press fit=20
  into the side of the block and locked in place with two screws (maybe =
1/4 or=20
  5/16"). </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>The original valve cover has no vent, but it does have a large =
brass plug=20
  where one could be fitted. </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Never had a problem with oil out of the push on cap or an unusual =
amount=20
  of leaks.... but the road draft tube kept most of the underside of the =
car=20
  rust free! </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>The car now has an aftermarket cast alu valve cover with a =
breather pipe=20
  and a low profile, twist-in filler cap (with a single, tiny breather =
hole).=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I've replaced the road draft tube, but didn't plug it. It now has =
a=20
  nipple for a 1/2" or larger&nbsp;hose fitting. I don't think it's a =
good idea=20
  to completely&nbsp;seal up&nbsp;the bottom end of the engine. It needs =
to be=20
  able to breathe, same as the top end. <BR><BR>Car is not yet back on =
the road,=20
  but when it is&nbsp;the plan is&nbsp; to&nbsp;have a catch tank or=20
  can&nbsp;fitted with a breather cap, with hoses running from both the =
valve=20
  cover and the fitting at the draft tube.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>I intend to use a catch can similar to this: <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jrc-555-6402">http://www.summit=
racing.com/parts/jrc-555-6402</A></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"CLEAR: both">
  <DIV><FONT size=3D3>Alan Myers</FONT> </DIV>
  <DIV>San Jose Calif. </DIV>
  <DIV>'62 TR4 CT17602L</DIV>
  <DIV><A href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=20
  saprocessedanchor=3D"true">[email-masked]</A></DIV>
  <DIV><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.triumphowners.com/to-car/tr4-14/">http://www.triumphow=
ners.com/to-car/tr4-14/</A></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><!-- end of =
AOLMsgPart_1_2c102bbd-5f42-4fb9-9e83-c373784814c7 --></FONT>
  <P>
  <HR>

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