Subject: Re: [TR] wiring or ?

From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 15:18:15 +0000 (UTC)

--===============7053973430411128669==
	boundary="----=_Part_19479728_1684392634.1438096695413"

------=_Part_19479728_1684392634.1438096695413
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

1000's of us have had the same mechanic working on our cars at one time or =
another.=20
=C2=A0=20
Ed Woods=20
=C2=A0=20

------=_Part_19479728_1684392634.1438096695413
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<html><body><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><DIV aria-label="Compose body">1000's of us have had the same mechanic working on our cars at one time or another.<BR></DIV>
<DIV aria-label="Compose body">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV aria-label="Compose body">Ed Woods</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></div></body></html>
------=_Part_19479728_1684392634.1438096695413--

--===============7053973430411128669==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

--===============7053973430411128669==--

---

From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 09:21:33 -0700

--===============8466074758895249731==

--bcaec548a62710d520051bf1dd4a

If you have not gone through all the tests in the Lucas Fault Manual - that
is where I would start.

Pretty sure there is a copy available online if you do not have it (really
worth having).  Possibly the same tests are in the shop manual or Haynes -
but the Lucas manual always seemed to me to be the easiest to follow and be
sure I have covered everything.

Geo

On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 7:55 AM, dave n <[email-masked]> wrote:

>   57 TR3, small mouth, early disk brake car.  supposedly everything is
> new and/or rebuilt, but i'm not so sure.  car has been being worked on for
> a decade; this car was mostly put together by an incompetent mechanic, so
> keep that in mind.  i am still trying to finish the car and undo his crap.
>
> we put the instrument panel in and wired the supposedly new set of
> gauges.  we finally got the car running, and its got about 2 miles on it.
> the red generator stayed lit during these 2 miles.  we finally figured out
> he had supplied a positive ground generator for a negative ground car,
> flashed the generator, and the light went out.
>
> we then discovered that the gas gauge did not work.  we pulled it, tried
> some things, discovered that the sending unit was not working, replaced
> that, but the gauge still did not work.  had the gauge rebuilt, and now its
> working.
>
> but the generator light is back on.  we thought it might be the voltage
> regulator, but we pulled it and tested it with nothing suspicious.  plus i
> swapped in a regulator from a running car, with no change.
>
> i'm thinking it could be the ammeter, or possibly when we were messing
> with the fuel gauge, we caused something to short or loosened a
> connection.  this car has a heater, so all that stuff is really crammed in
> there.
>
> i've got a tr4 ammeter, which according to moss, is the same.  and i'm
> going to look at the wiring.  any ideas, thoughts, recommendations, etc are
> more than welcome.
>
> not only is this guy a lousy mechanic, he put a bunch of philip head
> screws and bolts into a car which never had anything but slotted head.
> plus he had my car for several years without actually doing anything on
> it.  so by the time we discovered there were issues with the paint, it was
> too late to go back to the painter.  and i had specifically asked him to
> make sure the paint was ok when he picked it up from the painter.  then he
> said it was my fault for approving it, when i wasn't even there.
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>

--bcaec548a62710d520051bf1dd4a
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>If you have not gone through all the tests in the Luc=
as Fault Manual - that is where I would start.</div><div><br></div><div>Pre=
tty sure there is a copy available online if you do not have it (really wor=
th having).=C2=A0 Possibly the same tests are in the shop manual or Haynes =
- but the Lucas manual always seemed to me to be the easiest to follow and =
be sure I have covered everything.</div><div><br></div><div>Geo</div></div>=
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Jul 28, 2=
015 at 7:55 AM, dave n <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:dave@ranteer=
.com" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquo=
te class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc so=
lid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;;font-size:12=
pt">
<div>57 TR3, small mouth, early disk brake car.=C2=A0 supposedly everything=
 is=20
new and/or rebuilt, but i&#39;m not so sure.=C2=A0 car has been being worke=
d on for=20
a decade; this car was mostly put together by an incompetent mechanic, so k=
eep=20
that in mind.=C2=A0 i am still trying to finish the car and undo his crap.=
=C2=A0=20
</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>we put the instrument panel in and wired the supposedly new set of=20
gauges.=C2=A0 we finally got the car running, and its got about 2 miles on=
=20
it.=C2=A0 the red generator stayed lit during these 2 miles.=C2=A0 we final=
ly=20
figured out he had supplied a positive ground generator for a negative grou=
nd=20
car, flashed the generator, and the light went out.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>we then discovered that the gas gauge did not work.=C2=A0 we pulled it=
,=20
tried some things, discovered that the sending unit was not working, replac=
ed=20
that, but the gauge still did not work.=C2=A0 had the gauge rebuilt, and no=
w its=20
working.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>but the generator light is back on.=C2=A0 we thought it might be the=
=20
voltage regulator, but we pulled it and tested it with nothing suspicious.=
=C2=A0=20
plus i swapped in a regulator from a running car, with no change.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>i&#39;m thinking it could be the ammeter, or possibly when we were mes=
sing with=20
the fuel gauge, we caused something to short or loosened a connection.=C2=
=A0=20
this car has a heater, so all that stuff is really crammed in there.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>i&#39;ve got a tr4 ammeter, which according to moss, is the same.=C2=
=A0 and i&#39;m=20
going to look at the wiring.=C2=A0 any ideas, thoughts, recommendations, et=
c are=20
more than welcome.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>not only is this guy a lousy mechanic, he put a bunch of philip head s=
crews=20
and bolts into a car which never had anything but slotted=20
head.=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 plus he had my car for several years without actual=
ly=20
doing anything on it.=C2=A0 so by the time we discovered there were issues =
with=20
the paint, it was too late to go back to the painter.=C2=A0 and i had=20
specifically asked him to make sure the paint was ok when he picked it up f=
rom=20
the painter.=C2=A0 then he said it was my fault for approving it, when i wa=
sn&#39;t=20
even there.=C2=A0 </div></div></div></div>
<br><br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> *=
*<br>
<br>
=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"n=
oreferrer">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
hs/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

--bcaec548a62710d520051bf1dd4a--

--===============8466074758895249731==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

--===============8466074758895249731==--

---

From: Dave <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 21:49:04 -0400

--===============2847952118190772411==
	boundary="----=_Part_133191_1892555589.1438134544636"

------=_Part_133191_1892555589.1438134544636
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I'd start with reflashing the field.  It is quick, easy and costs nothing.

It sounds like you're making progress.  It always seems to be a bunch of little things that get taken care of one at a time.

Dave Massey

-----Original Message-----
From: dave n <[email-masked]>
To: triumphs <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tue, Jul 28, 2015 4:04 pm
Subject: [TR] wiring or ?

57 TR3, small mouth, early disk brake car.  supposedly everything is new and/or rebuilt, but i'm not so sure.  car has been being worked on for a decade; this car was mostly put together by an incompetent mechanic, so keep that in mind.  i am still trying to finish the car and undo his crap.     

we put the instrument panel in and wired the supposedly new set of gauges.  we finally got the car running, and its got about 2 miles on it.  the red generator stayed lit during these 2 miles.  we finally figured out he had supplied a positive ground generator for a negative ground car, flashed the generator, and the light went out.   

we then discovered that the gas gauge did not work.  we pulled it, tried some things, discovered that the sending unit was not working, replaced that, but the gauge still did not work.  had the gauge rebuilt, and now its working.   

but the generator light is back on.  we thought it might be the voltage regulator, but we pulled it and tested it with nothing suspicious.  plus i swapped in a regulator from a running car, with no change.   

i'm thinking it could be the ammeter, or possibly when we were messing with the fuel gauge, we caused something to short or loosened a connection.  this car has a heater, so all that stuff is really crammed in there.   

i've got a tr4 ammeter, which according to moss, is the same.  and i'm going to look at the wiring.  any ideas, thoughts, recommendations, etc are more than welcome.   

not only is this guy a lousy mechanic, he put a bunch of philip head screws and bolts into a car which never had anything but slotted head.    plus he had my car for several years without actually doing anything on it.  so by the time we discovered there were issues with the paint, it was too late to go back to the painter.  and i had specifically asked him to make sure the paint was ok when he picked it up from the painter.  then he said it was my fault for approving it, when i wasn't even there.     

Donate:
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

------=_Part_133191_1892555589.1438134544636
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<font color='black' size='4' face='Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'><font size="4">I'd start with reflashing the field.&nbsp; It is quick, easy and costs nothing.<br>
<br>
It sounds like you're making progress.&nbsp; It always seems to be a bunch of little things that get taken care of one at a time.<br>
</font>

<div> <br>

</div>

<div> <br>

</div>

<div style="clear:both"><font size="4">Dave Massey</font><br>

<br>

</div>

<div> <br>

</div>

<div> <br>

</div>

<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>

From: dave n &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>

To: triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>

Sent: Tue, Jul 28, 2015 4:04 pm<br>

Subject: [TR] wiring or ?<br>

<br>

<div id="AOLMsgPart_1.2_e38253ee-887f-4b39-8ce0-e45cd55093a1">

<div dir="ltr" class="aolReplacedBody"> 

<div dir="ltr"> 

<div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000"> 

<div>
57 TR3, small mouth, early disk brake car.&nbsp; supposedly everything is new and/or rebuilt, but i'm not so sure.&nbsp; car has been being worked on for a decade; this car was mostly put together by an incompetent mechanic, so keep that in mind.&nbsp; i am still trying to finish the car and undo his crap.&nbsp; 
   </div>

<div>
&nbsp;
   </div>

<div>
we put the instrument panel in and wired the supposedly new set of gauges.&nbsp; we finally got the car running, and its got about 2 miles on it.&nbsp; the red generator stayed lit during these 2 miles.&nbsp; we finally figured out he had supplied a positive ground generator for a negative ground car, flashed the generator, and the light went out.
   </div>

<div>
&nbsp;
   </div>

<div>
we then discovered that the gas gauge did not work.&nbsp; we pulled it, tried some things, discovered that the sending unit was not working, replaced that, but the gauge still did not work.&nbsp; had the gauge rebuilt, and now its working.
   </div>

<div>
&nbsp;
   </div>

<div>
but the generator light is back on.&nbsp; we thought it might be the voltage regulator, but we pulled it and tested it with nothing suspicious.&nbsp; plus i swapped in a regulator from a running car, with no change.
   </div>

<div>
&nbsp;
   </div>

<div>
i'm thinking it could be the ammeter, or possibly when we were messing with the fuel gauge, we caused something to short or loosened a connection.&nbsp; this car has a heater, so all that stuff is really crammed in there.
   </div>

<div>
&nbsp;
   </div>

<div>
i've got a tr4 ammeter, which according to moss, is the same.&nbsp; and i'm going to look at the wiring.&nbsp; any ideas, thoughts, recommendations, etc are more than welcome.
   </div>

<div>
&nbsp;
   </div>

<div>
not only is this guy a lousy mechanic, he put a bunch of philip head screws and bolts into a car which never had anything but slotted head.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; plus he had my car for several years without actually doing anything on it.&nbsp; so by the time we discovered there were issues with the paint, it was too late to go back to the painter.&nbsp; and i had specifically asked him to make sure the paint was ok when he picked it up from the painter.&nbsp; then he said it was my fault for approving it, when i wasn't even there.&nbsp; 
   </div>

  </div>

 </div>

</div>

</div>

<div id="AOLMsgPart_2_410fa044-dac7-4ac8-b9b5-b46d718e37e6" style="margin: 0px;font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif;font-size: 12px;color: #000;background-color: #fff;">

<pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt>
** <a removedlink__cca85b06-5448-4199-86cc-02a1cd314695__href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

Donate:
<a removedlink__cca85b06-5448-4199-86cc-02a1cd314695__href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>
Archive: <a removedlink__cca85b06-5448-4199-86cc-02a1cd314695__href="http://www.team.net/archive" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums:
<a removedlink__cca85b06-5448-4199-86cc-02a1cd314695__href="http://www.team.net/forums" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a>
<a removedlink__cca85b06-5448-4199-86cc-02a1cd314695__href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a>
</tt></pre>
</div>

 <!-- end of AOLMsgPart_2_410fa044-dac7-4ac8-b9b5-b46d718e37e6 -->
</div>

</font>
------=_Part_133191_1892555589.1438134544636--

--===============2847952118190772411==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

--===============2847952118190772411==--

---

From: "dave n" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 20:58:49 -0500

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--===============6646300352694465281==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_004C_01D0C978.33D7E5F0"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004C_01D0C978.33D7E5F0
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

we reflashed the generator several times

From: Dave=20
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2015 8:49 PM
To: [email-masked] ; [email-masked]=20
Subject: Re: [TR] wiring or ?

I'd start with reflashing the field.  It is quick, easy and costs =
nothing.

It sounds like you're making progress.  It always seems to be a bunch of =
little things that get taken care of one at a time.

Dave Massey

-----Original Message-----
From: dave n <[email-masked]>
To: triumphs <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tue, Jul 28, 2015 4:04 pm
Subject: [TR] wiring or ?

57 TR3, small mouth, early disk brake car.  supposedly everything is new =
and/or rebuilt, but i'm not so sure.  car has been being worked on for a =
decade; this car was mostly put together by an incompetent mechanic, so =
keep that in mind.  i am still trying to finish the car and undo his =
crap. =20
we put the instrument panel in and wired the supposedly new set of =
gauges.  we finally got the car running, and its got about 2 miles on =
it.  the red generator stayed lit during these 2 miles.  we finally =
figured out he had supplied a positive ground generator for a negative =
ground car, flashed the generator, and the light went out.=20
we then discovered that the gas gauge did not work.  we pulled it, tried =
some things, discovered that the sending unit was not working, replaced =
that, but the gauge still did not work.  had the gauge rebuilt, and now =
its working.=20
but the generator light is back on.  we thought it might be the voltage =
regulator, but we pulled it and tested it with nothing suspicious.  plus =
i swapped in a regulator from a running car, with no change.=20
i'm thinking it could be the ammeter, or possibly when we were messing =
with the fuel gauge, we caused something to short or loosened a =
connection.  this car has a heater, so all that stuff is really crammed =
in there.=20
i've got a tr4 ammeter, which according to moss, is the same.  and i'm =
going to look at the wiring.  any ideas, thoughts, recommendations, etc =
are more than welcome.=20
not only is this guy a lousy mechanic, he put a bunch of philip head =
screws and bolts into a car which never had anything but slotted head.   =
 plus he had my car for several years without actually doing anything on =
it.  so by the time we discovered there were issues with the paint, it =
was too late to go back to the painter.  and i had specifically asked =
him to make sure the paint was ok when he picked it up from the painter. =
 then he said it was my fault for approving it, when i wasn't even =
there. =20

Donate:

------=_NextPart_000_004C_01D0C978.33D7E5F0
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>we reflashed the generator several times</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Dave</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, July 28, 2015 8:49 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A> ; <A=20
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [TR] wiring or ?</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'><FONT=20
color=3Dblack size=3D4 face=3D"Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><FONT =
size=3D4>I'd start=20
with reflashing the field.&nbsp; It is quick, easy and costs =
nothing.<BR><BR>It=20
sounds like you're making progress.&nbsp; It always seems to be a bunch =
of=20
little things that get taken care of one at a time.<BR></FONT>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"CLEAR: both"><FONT size=3D4>Dave =
Massey</FONT><BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial,helvetica; COLOR: =
black">-----Original=20
Message-----<BR>From: dave n &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<BR>To: triumphs=20
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<BR>Sent: Tue, Jul 28, 2015 4:04 =
pm<BR>Subject:=20
[TR] wiring or ?<BR><BR>
<DIV id=3DAOLMsgPart_1.2_e38253ee-887f-4b39-8ce0-e45cd55093a1>
<DIV class=3DaolReplacedBody dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>57 TR3, small mouth, early disk brake car.&nbsp; supposedly =
everything is=20
new and/or rebuilt, but i'm not so sure.&nbsp; car has been being worked =
on for=20
a decade; this car was mostly put together by an incompetent mechanic, =
so keep=20
that in mind.&nbsp; i am still trying to finish the car and undo his =
crap.&nbsp;=20
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>we put the instrument panel in and wired the supposedly new set of=20
gauges.&nbsp; we finally got the car running, and its got about 2 miles =
on=20
it.&nbsp; the red generator stayed lit during these 2 miles.&nbsp; we =
finally=20
figured out he had supplied a positive ground generator for a negative =
ground=20
car, flashed the generator, and the light went out. </DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>we then discovered that the gas gauge did not work.&nbsp; we pulled =
it,=20
tried some things, discovered that the sending unit was not working, =
replaced=20
that, but the gauge still did not work.&nbsp; had the gauge rebuilt, and =
now its=20
working. </DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>but the generator light is back on.&nbsp; we thought it might be =
the=20
voltage regulator, but we pulled it and tested it with nothing =
suspicious.&nbsp;=20
plus i swapped in a regulator from a running car, with no change. </DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>i'm thinking it could be the ammeter, or possibly when we were =
messing with=20
the fuel gauge, we caused something to short or loosened a =
connection.&nbsp;=20
this car has a heater, so all that stuff is really crammed in there. =
</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>i've got a tr4 ammeter, which according to moss, is the same.&nbsp; =
and i'm=20
going to look at the wiring.&nbsp; any ideas, thoughts, recommendations, =
etc are=20
more than welcome. </DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>not only is this guy a lousy mechanic, he put a bunch of philip =
head screws=20
and bolts into a car which never had anything but slotted=20
head.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; plus he had my car for several years without =
actually=20
doing anything on it.&nbsp; so by the time we discovered there were =
issues with=20
the paint, it was too late to go back to the painter.&nbsp; and i had=20
specifically asked him to make sure the paint was ok when he picked it =
up from=20
the painter.&nbsp; then he said it was my fault for approving it, when i =
wasn't=20
even there.&nbsp; </DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV id=3DAOLMsgPart_2_410fa044-dac7-4ac8-b9b5-b46d718e37e6=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12px; FONT-FAMILY: tahoma, verdana, arial, =
sans-serif; COLOR: #000; MARGIN: 0px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff"><PRE =
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 9pt"><TT>
** <A =
removedlink__cca85b06-5448-4199-86cc-02a1cd314695__href=3D"mailto:triumph=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A> **

Donate:
<A target=3D_blank =
removedlink__cca85b06-5448-4199-86cc-02a1cd314695__href=3D"http://www.tea=
m.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</A>
Archive: <A target=3D_blank =
removedlink__cca85b06-5448-4199-86cc-02a1cd314695__href=3D"http://www.tea=
m.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</A>
Forums:
<A target=3D_blank =
removedlink__cca85b06-5448-4199-86cc-02a1cd314695__href=3D"http://www.tea=
m.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</A>
<A target=3D_blank =
removedlink__cca85b06-5448-4199-86cc-02a1cd314695__href=3D"http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.ne=
t/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</A>
</TT></PRE></DIV><!-- end of =
AOLMsgPart_2_410fa044-dac7-4ac8-b9b5-b46d718e37e6 =
--></DIV></FONT></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_004C_01D0C978.33D7E5F0--

--===============6646300352694465281==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

--===============6646300352694465281==--

---

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2015 19:09:30 -0700

> we finally figured out he had
> supplied a positive ground generator for a negative ground car, flashed
> the generator, and the light went out.

That's actually normal, new generators are usually supplied unpolarized.
Polarizing is a standard part of the installation procedure.

> connection.  this car has a heater, so all that stuff is really crammed in

Not likely on either front, IMO.  If the ammeter was open, nothing would
work (not just the generator).

As a first step, I would connect a voltmeter to the ground post at
the battery and check the voltage at the E, D, and F terminals at the
control box (with engine running at fast idle).  E should be ground, less
than 0.1 volt different than the battery post.  If you find battery voltage
on D, there is a wiring problem to the light.  If the voltage on F is
different than the voltage on D, the control box has a problem, which may be
only dirty contacts.  (Cleaning and adjusting the contacts is a normal part
of installing a new regulator; and also required from time to time as normal
maintenance.)

If D and F have the same (within 0.2 volts) low voltage, there is a problem
with the generator itself, or the connections between it and the control
box.

If those simple tests don't show the problem clearly, there is a much more
complete set of tests given in
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffNTc3ODkwYzAtYjRlYS00NDNmLWI0YTY
tNjY5ZjQxZTA2NGFm/view?usp=sharing

-- Randall

---

From: Bob Labuz <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2015 09:35:05 -0400

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============2959534084276559792==
 boundary="------------090204090807080609010900"

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------090204090807080609010900
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Dave,

Had a problem with the 4 last year and it turned out to be a defective 
control box. I tried changing generators with no solution. Most on the 
list pointed me to a defective control box. So I got a used one off ebay 
last winter and now charging circuit works as new.

Might want to swap your box for another.

Matt Bakes pointed me in this direction for a new control box.

http://www.classicregulator.com/electronic-regulators/electronic-voltage-regulator

Currently he only supplies - ground units but he is working on a + 
ground version.

Bob

> we reflashed the generator several times
**

--------------090204090807080609010900
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Dave,<br>
      <br>
      Had a problem with the 4 last year and it turned out to be a
      defective control box. I tried changing generators with no
      solution. Most on the list pointed me to a defective control box.
      So I got a used one off ebay last winter and now charging circuit
      works as new.<br>
      <br>
      Might want to swap your box for another.<br>
      <br>
      Matt Bakes pointed me in this direction for a new control box.<br>
      <br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.classicregulator.com/electronic-regulators/electronic-voltage-regulator">http://www.classicregulator.com/electronic-regulators/electronic-voltage-regulator</a><br>
      <br>
      Currently he only supplies - ground units but he is working on a +
      ground version.<br>
      <br>
      Bob<br>
      <br>
       On 07/28/2015 09:58 PM, dave n wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div>
          <div>we reflashed the generator several times</div>
          <div>
            <div>
              <div> </div>
              <br>
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <b></b><br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------090204090807080609010900--

--===============2959534084276559792==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

--===============2959534084276559792==--