Subject: Re: [TR] Fender bolts

From: Dave Hogye <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2015 15:20:09 -0700

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The 3 bolts below the tail light will most likely be rusted to the caged nut=
.  Remove all other bolts and there are slots in the fender for the 3 bolts t=
o stay in place.  Some persuasion will be needed to move the fender rearward=
, but it should slide out.  If you can get some WD40 in there it might help.=

Dave H.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2015, at 3:08 PM, David Friedlander <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> Hey all;
>=20
> I'm trying to remove the rear driver's side fender from my 3A. How in the w=
orld does one=20
> remove those last three vertical (i.e., one above the other) bolts at the r=
ear of the rear fender
> (next to the tail light)? The fender is curved so one cannot even get a wr=
ench on it, even=20
> with a flex socket. Did Triumph assemble these with British pygmies?? :- )=
  I have been=20
> trying, unsuccessfully, for several hours....
>=20
> Thanks for any insights....
>=20
> Dave Friedlander
>=20
>=20
> ** [email-masked] **
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye=
@comcast.net

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>The 3 bolts below the tail light will m=
ost likely be rusted to the caged nut. &nbsp;Remove all other bolts and ther=
e are slots in the fender for the 3 bolts to stay in place. &nbsp;Some persu=
asion will be needed to move the fender rearward, but it should slide out. &=
nbsp;If you can get some WD40 in there it might help.</div><div><br></div><d=
iv>Dave H.<br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On Jun 4, 2015, at 3:08 P=
M, David Friedlander &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">forzion7@gmai=
l.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div dir=3D=
"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-s=
erif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Hey all;<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" s=
tyle=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">I'm <i>tryi=
ng </i>to remove the rear driver's side fender from my 3A. How in the world d=
oes one <br>remove those last three vertical (i.e., one above the other) bol=
ts at the rear of the rear fender<br>(next to the tail light)? The fender is=
 curved so one cannot even get a wrench on it, even <br>with a flex socket. D=
id Triumph assemble these with British pygmies?? :- )&nbsp; I have been <br>=
trying, unsuccessfully, for several hours....<br><br></div><div class=3D"gma=
il_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)=
">Thanks for any insights....<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" styl=
e=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Dave Friedland=
er<br><br></div></div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><span></span><br><span>** <=
a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **</sp=
an><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.=
html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D=
"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><spa=
n>Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums<=
/a></span><br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mai=
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ions/triumphs/[email-masked]</a></span><br></div></blockquote></body></=
html>=

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Frank Fisher <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2015 22:27:53 +0000 (UTC)

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they are bolts into captive nuts.an open end or box end is about all you ca=
n get in there. i don't think you'll get a socket on it.=C2=A0once you get =
a few turns they fender should slide off. all my fenders had slots for the =
bolts not round holes.is your bolt turning but not loosening?=C2=A0
frank

      From: David Friedlander <[email-masked]>
 To: TR3 Triumphs <[email-masked]>=20
 Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2015 3:08 PM
 Subject: [TR] Fender bolts
  =20
Hey all;

(next to the tail light)? The fender is curved so one cannot even get a wre=
nch on it, even=20
=C2=A0 I have been=20

Dave Friedlander

[email-masked]

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<html><body><div style=3D"color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:He=
lveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:16px"><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4951"><span=
 id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_5026">they are bolts into captive nuts.</=
span></div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4950"><span id=
=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4986">an open end or box end is about all yo=
u can get in there. i don't think you'll get a socket on it.&nbsp;</span></=
div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4950"><span id=3D"yui=
_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_5027">once you get a few turns they fender should s=
lide off. all my fenders had slots for the bolts not round holes.</span></d=
iv><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4950"><span id=3D"yui_=
3_16_0_1_1433454619786_5028">is your bolt turning but not loosening?&nbsp;<=
/span></div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4950"><span><=
br></span></div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4950"><sp=
an>frank</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4950=
"><span><br></span></div><div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_=
4950"><span><br></span></div><br>  <div style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue=
, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 1=
6px;" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4931"> <div style=3D"font-family: He=
lveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; f=
ont-size: 16px;" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4930"> <div dir=3D"ltr" i=
d=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4949"> <hr size=3D"1" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_14=
33454619786_5048">  <font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433=
454619786_4975"> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> Davi=
d Friedlander &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:=
 bold;">To:</span></b> TR3 Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br> <b=
><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> Thursday, June 4, 2015=
 3:08 PM<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Subject:</span></b> [TR]=
 Fender bolts<br> </font> </div> <div class=3D"y_msg_container" id=3D"yui_3=
_16_0_1_1433454619786_4929"><br><div id=3D"yiv6283092140"><div dir=3D"ltr" =
id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4928"><div class=3D"yiv6283092140gmail_def=
ault" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms, sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153);" i=
d=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4932">Hey all;<br><br></div><div class=3D"y=
iv6283092140gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms, sans-serif;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,153);" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4927">I'm <i>trying </=
i>to remove the rear driver's side fender from my 3A. How in the world does=
 one <br>remove those last three vertical (i.e., one above the other) bolts=
 at the rear of the rear fender<br>(next to the tail light)? The fender is =
curved so one cannot even get a wrench on it, even <br>with a flex socket. =
Did Triumph assemble these with British pygmies?? :- )&nbsp; I have been <b=
r>trying, unsuccessfully, for several hours....<br><br></div><div class=3D"=
yiv6283092140gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms, sans-serif;=
color:rgb(0,0,153);" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_4974">Thanks for any =
insights....<br><br></div><div class=3D"yiv6283092140gmail_default" style=
=3D"font-family:comic sans ms, sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153);" id=3D"yui_3_=
16_0_1_1433454619786_5082">Dave Friedlander<br><br></div></div></div><br><b=
r>** <a ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" href=3D"mailto:triumphs@=
autox.team.net" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_5083">[email-masked].=
net</a> **<br><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" targe=
t=3D"_blank" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_5084">http://www.team.net/don=
ate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"=
_blank" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_5085">http://www.team.net/archive<=
/a><br>Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank" id=
=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1433454619786_5086">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>Unsu=
bscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/y=
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body></html>
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From: David Friedlander <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2015 18:49:25 -0400

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Frank;

No, I haven't even been able to get a wrench on them, not even a ratcheting
box wrench. I guess I'll just keep at it. At this point, it's not the rust
or the
number of turns I can get on them, it's getting ANY turns on them. But, I
didn't
know these were slotted holes so that's a relief. The other dozen
screws/bolts
holding the fender in place were EACH one a story. Whew! Even the front
fenders weren't this challenging. I have cut off many screw/bolts heads
since beginning this project in April....

I found a product that (to me) is much better than WD40 or PB Blaster. It's
called Aero Kroil.

Check out http://www.kanolabs.com and look at their other products as well.
NFI, of course.... This stuff *really *penetrates!

 I think I need to dip this car in a VAT of this!!

Thanks for the responses. I'll have to get creative with tools...

Dave Friedlander
Maine
'74 TR6
'59 TR3A

On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 6:27 PM, Frank Fisher <[email-masked]> wrote:

> they are bolts into captive nuts.
> an open end or box end is about all you can get in there. i don't think
> you'll get a socket on it.
> once you get a few turns they fender should slide off. all my fenders had
> slots for the bolts not round holes.
> is your bolt turning but not loosening?
>
> frank
>
>
>
>   ------------------------------
>  *From:* David Friedlander <[email-masked]>
> *To:* TR3 Triumphs <[email-masked]>
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 4, 2015 3:08 PM
> *Subject:* [TR] Fender bolts
>
> Hey all;
>
> I'm *trying *to remove the rear driver's side fender from my 3A. How in
> the world does one
> remove those last three vertical (i.e., one above the other) bolts at the
> rear of the rear fender
> (next to the tail light)? The fender is curved so one cannot even get a
> wrench on it, even
> with a flex socket. Did Triumph assemble these with British pygmies?? :-
> )  I have been
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Frank;<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmai=
l_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)=
">No, I haven&#39;t even been able to get a wrench on them, not even a ratc=
heting <br>box wrench. I guess I&#39;ll just keep at it. At this point, it&=
#39;s not the rust or the <br>number of turns I can get on them, it&#39;s g=
etting ANY turns on them. But, I didn&#39;t <br>know these were slotted hol=
es so that&#39;s a relief. The other dozen screws/bolts <br>holding the fen=
der in place were EACH one a story. Whew! Even the front <br>fenders weren&=
#39;t this challenging. I have cut off many screw/bolts heads <br>since beg=
inning this project in April....<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">I found a=
 product that (to me) is much better than WD40 or PB Blaster. It&#39;s <br>=
called Aero Kroil. <br><br>Check out <a href=3D"http://www.kanolabs.com">ht=
tp://www.kanolabs.com</a> and look at their other products as well. <br>NFI=
, of course.... This stuff <i>really </i>penetrates!<br><br></div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb=
(0,0,153)">=C2=A0I think I need to dip this car in a VAT of this!!<br><br><=
/div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-s=
erif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Thanks for the responses. I&#39;ll have to get cre=
ative with tools...<i><br><br></i></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Dave Friedland=
er<i><br></i></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic =
sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Maine<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">&=
#39;74 TR6<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic=
 sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">&#39;59 TR3A<br></div><div class=3D=
"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0=
,153)"><br><br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gma=
il_quote">On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 6:27 PM, Frank Fisher <span dir=3D"ltr">&l=
t;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">yellowtr3@yahoo.=
com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"mar=
gin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div style=
=3D"color:#000;background-color:#fff;font-family:HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Ne=
ue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif;font-size:16px"><div dir=3D"ltr=
"><span>they are bolts into captive nuts.</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><spa=
n>an open end or box end is about all you can get in there. i don&#39;t thi=
nk you&#39;ll get a socket on it.=C2=A0</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>=
once you get a few turns they fender should slide off. all my fenders had s=
lots for the bolts not round holes.</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>is y=
our bolt turning but not loosening?=C2=A0</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><spa=
n><br></span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>frank</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr=
"><span><br></span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span><br></span></div><br>  <div=
 style=3D"font-family:HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida G=
rande,sans-serif;font-size:16px"> <div style=3D"font-family:HelveticaNeue,H=
elvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif;font-size:16px"> <di=
v dir=3D"ltr"> <hr size=3D"1">  <font face=3D"Arial" size=3D"2"> <b><span s=
tyle=3D"font-weight:bold">From:</span></b> David Friedlander &lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br=
> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">To:</span></b> TR3 Triumphs &lt;<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
.net</a>&gt; <br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">Sent:</span></b> Thur=
sday, June 4, 2015 3:08 PM<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">Subject:=
</span></b> [TR] Fender bolts<br> </font> </div> <div><div><div class=3D"h5=
"><br><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-se=
rif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Hey all;<br><br></div><div style=3D"font-family:com=
ic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">I&#39;m <i>trying </i>to remove t=
he rear driver&#39;s side fender from my 3A. How in the world does one <br>=
remove those last three vertical (i.e., one above the other) bolts at the r=
ear of the rear fender<br>(next to the tail light)? The fender is curved so=
 one cannot even get a wrench on it, even <br>with a flex socket. Did Trium=
ph assemble these with British pygmies?? :- )=C2=A0 I have been <br>trying,=
 unsuccessfully, for several hours....<br><br></div><div style=3D"font-fami=
ly:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Thanks for any insights....=
<br><br></div><div style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(=
0,0,153)">Dave Friedlander<br><br></div></div></div><br><br></div></div><sp=
an class=3D"">** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blan=
k">[email-masked]</a> **<br><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team=
.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>=
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://w=
ww.team.net/archive</a><br>Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" t=
arget=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br></span>Unsubscribe/Manag=
e: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yaho=
o.com" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yel=
[email-masked]</a><br><br><br></div> </div> </div>  </div></div></blockqu=
ote></div><br></div>

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From: davehogye <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2015 23:18:56 +0000 (UTC)

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Dave, 
If you can get a wrench on the bolts and get them to move at all it might help, but I'd bet they are frozen with rust. Once you get the fender off, you can get a good look at them and decide what to do. They'll probably have to be cut off, the rust on the threads will cause the nuts to spin in their cage. I removed the panels that these 3 bolts go through, replaced the cage nuts with new ones, then welded the panels back in place as the factory did. I'll send you a couple pix. 
When I restored my TR3, I went through every cage nut on the whole body and made sure they were serviceable, chased all the threads with a tap, squeezed the cage a little around the nuts to tighten them up a bit so the nut wouldn't spin during reassembly. I had to replace around 30 nuts and cages on the body that were not serviceable. I wanted the body to go back together without issues with the caged nuts and bolts. I also put anti-seaze on every bolt before reassembly. 

Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----

From: "David Friedlander" <[email-masked]> 
To: "TR3 Triumphs" <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2015 3:08:09 PM 
Subject: [TR] Fender bolts 

Hey all; 

I'm trying to remove the rear driver's side fender from my 3A. How in the world does one 
remove those last three vertical (i.e., one above the other) bolts at the rear of the rear fender 
(next to the tail light)? The fender is curved so one cannot even get a wrench on it, even 
with a flex socket. Did Triumph assemble these with British pygmies?? :- ) I have been 
trying, unsuccessfully, for several hours.... 

Dave Friedlander 

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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">Dave,</div><div aria-label=3D"Compose =
body">If you can get a wrench on the bolts and get them to move at all it m=
ight help, but I'd bet they are frozen with rust. &nbsp;Once you get the fe=
nder off, you can get a good look at them and decide what to do. &nbsp;They=
'll probably have to be cut off, the rust on the threads will cause the nut=
s to spin in their cage. &nbsp;I removed the panels that these 3 bolts go t=
hrough, replaced the cage nuts with new ones, then welded the panels back i=
n place as the factory did. &nbsp;I'll send you a couple pix.</div><div ari=
a-label=3D"Compose body">When I restored my TR3, I went through every cage =
nut on the whole body and made sure they were serviceable, chased all the t=
hreads with a tap, squeezed the cage a little around the nuts to tighten th=
em up a bit so the nut wouldn't spin during reassembly. &nbsp;I had to repl=
ace around 30 nuts and cages on the body that were not serviceable. &nbsp;I=
 wanted the body to go back together without issues with the caged nuts and=
 bolts. &nbsp;I also put anti-seaze on every bolt before reassembly. &nbsp;=
</div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose=
 body">Dave H.</div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#00=
0;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Hel=
vetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style=3D"color: #000; fon=
t-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; font-family: H=
elvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>From: </b>"David Friedlande=
r" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>To: </b>"TR3 Triumphs" &lt;triumphs@aut=
ox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Sent: </b>Thursday, June 4, 2015 3:08:09 PM<br><b>Sub=
ject: </b>[TR] Fender bolts<br><div><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(=
0,0,153)" data-mce-style=3D"font-family: comic sans ms,sans-serif; color: #=
000099;">Hey all;<br><div><br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" styl=
e=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)" data-mce-styl=
e=3D"font-family: comic sans ms,sans-serif; color: #000099;">I'm <i>trying =
</i>to remove the rear driver's side fender from my 3A. How in the world do=
es one <br>remove those last three vertical (i.e., one above the other) bol=
ts at the rear of the rear fender<br>(next to the tail light)? The fender i=
s curved so one cannot even get a wrench on it, even <br>with a flex socket=
. Did Triumph assemble these with British pygmies?? :- )&nbsp; I have been =
<br>trying, unsuccessfully, for several hours....<br><div><br></div></div><=
div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,153)" data-mce-style=3D"font-family: comic sans ms,sans-serif;=
 color: #000099;">Thanks for any insights....<br><div><br></div></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color=
:rgb(0,0,153)" data-mce-style=3D"font-family: comic sans ms,sans-serif; col=
or: #000099;">Dave Friedlander<br><div><br></div></div></div><br><div><br><=
/div>** [email-masked] **<br><div><br></div>Donate: http://www.tea=
m.net/donate.html<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>Forums: http:/=
/www.team.net/forums<br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/o=
ptions/triumphs/[email-masked]<br></div><div><br></div></div></body></=
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2015 01:35:41 +0000 (UTC)

Here's something I decided to take a chance on.  https://www.dropbox.com/home/Triumph%20Cupholder

What I liked is that it doesn't screw into the transmission tunnel, so it's not in the way when greasing the u-joint through the plug, nor does it have to be removed when pulling the transmission cover.  I haven't actually used it, but it does seem fairly stable.  

Not attractive, but then I'll cover that for the both of us!

About $25 on Amazon at http://www.amazon.com/Weighted-Drink-Holder--Beanie-Large/dp/B00OABQSU6/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1433461788&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=beanie+cupholder.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hamphsire