Subject: [TR] TR6 stock style SS exhaust, thank you

From: Bob Peglow <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 08:08:53 -0400 (EDT)

It sounds like I cannot go wrong with either Falcon or Bell.
Thank you for your valued opinion.
Regards,
Bob

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Bob Danielson" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 11:45:53 -0400

I'll throw one more option out there....... the "new" SS Tourist Trophy from 
Moss. I got it on sale and put it on last June and love the sound and the 
look..... polished SS from the downpipes to the tailpipes. 
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=125122&SortOrder=1

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm
Custom Interiors & Boot Covers
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FenderBlanket.htm
Fender Blankets

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Peglow
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2015 8:08 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] TR6 stock style SS exhaust, thank you

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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From: "Bob Danielson" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 13:34:53 -0400

Not loud at all..... nice and throaty on acceleration and quiet on the 
highway. My car had Monza's on it when I bought it 18 years ago..... fun to 
set off car alarms in garages with the noise but on the highway it droned on 
incessantly..... made me nuts.

Moss designed the TT exhaust using Herman Van den Akker's  (HVDA 5 speed 
fame)) car as the mole with input from Herman and, I'm sure, Helena... they 
are the King & Queen of long distance trips and wanted a performance system 
that sounded good on the highway.

Here's Moss's YouTube video so you can hear it 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMATDAHtStQ

Bob

Bob Danielson

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Peglow
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2015 1:04 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 stock style SS exhaust, thank you..

Thanks Bob, that Trophy setup could be as loud as what I have now.
My setup looks great but I want stock look and quieter running.
On car when I purchased it Bob Lubuz suggests they might be ANSA?
Bob

On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 11:45 AM, Bob Danielson wrote:

> I'll throw one more option out there....... the "new" SS Tourist
> Trophy from Moss. I got it on sale and put it on last June and love
> the sound and the look..... polished SS from the downpipes to the
> tailpipes.
> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Peglow
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:

---

From: Roger Elliott <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2015 14:46:25 -0500

Hi,

What is the most likely cause of rings not seating?

I rebuilt my Spitfire engine about 4,000 miles ago and still have 
excessive oil consumption.    I don't seem to be leaking oil, so my 
assumption is that it is getting past the rings.

I did check the gap on all of the rings during installation and they all 
were within tolerance - generally towards the tighter end.

I am planning on taking off the head and putting new rings on.

What steps should I take to try to make sure the new rings seat 
properly?  I am thinking I should run a hone down cylinders just to 
roughen up the walls a bit.

Thanks,
Roger  Elliott

---

From: Michael Marr <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2015 19:49:17 +0000

Deglazing the cylinder walls is very important.  

Mike

Michael Marr
Albion Technical Services
Mobile:  630-202-0065

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 21, 2015, at 2:47 PM, Roger Elliott <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I rebuilt my Spitfire engine about 4,000 miles ago and still have excessive oil consumption.    I don't seem to be leaking oil, so my assumption is that it is getting past the rings.
> 
> I did check the gap on all of the rings during installation and they all were within tolerance - generally towards the tighter end.
> 
> What steps should I take to try to make sure the new rings seat properly?  I am thinking I should run a hone down cylinders just to roughen up the walls a bit.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Roger  Elliott
> 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2015 13:16:42 -0700

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Roger -

I purchased a car that the PO had replaced the rings and they had not
seated -- and driving in the usual break-in mode did not get the job done.
In the end I did the trick wherein you dump some Bon Ami into the intake
and that resolved the problem.

The intent it not to scratch the cylinder walls with the powder (indeed Bon
Ami is quite gentle in that regard) but rather to absorb oil in the
cylinders so they run a stroke of two with oil deprivation and the rings
seat.

Probably a controversial solution - certainly well documented on the web
though, of course, that proves nothing.  But I think it worked for me and
seemed worth a shot prior to tearing things down.

Geo

On Sun, Jun 21, 2015 at 12:46 PM, Roger Elliott <[email-masked]> wrote:

> What steps should I take to try to make sure the new rings seat properly?
> I am thinking I should run a hone down cylinders just to roughen up the
> walls a bit.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Roger  Elliott
>
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Roger -</div><div><br></div><div>I purchased a car th=
at the PO had replaced the rings and they had not seated -- and driving in =
the usual break-in mode did not get the job done.=C2=A0 In the end I did th=
e trick wherein you dump some Bon Ami into the intake and that resolved the=
 problem.</div><div><br></div><div>The intent it not to scratch the cylinde=
r walls with the powder (indeed Bon Ami is quite gentle in that regard) but=
 rather to absorb oil=C2=A0in the cylinders so they run a stroke of two wit=
h oil deprivation and the rings seat.</div><div><br></div><div>Probably a c=
ontroversial solution - certainly well documented on the web though, of cou=
rse, that proves nothing.=C2=A0 But I think it worked for me and seemed wor=
th a shot prior to tearing things down.</div><div><br></div><div>Geo</div><=
/div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Jun =
21, 2015 at 12:46 PM, Roger Elliott <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:=
<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-lef=
t:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Hi,<br>
<br>
What is the most likely cause of rings not seating?<br>
<br>
I rebuilt my Spitfire engine about 4,000 miles ago and still have excessive=
 oil consumption.=C2=A0 =C2=A0 I don&#39;t seem to be leaking oil, so my as=
sumption is that it is getting past the rings.<br>
<br>
I did check the gap on all of the rings during installation and they all we=
re within tolerance - generally towards the tighter end.<br>
<br>
I am planning on taking off the head and putting new rings on.<br>
<br>
What steps should I take to try to make sure the new rings seat properly?=
=C2=A0 I am thinking I should run a hone down cylinders just to roughen up =
the walls a bit.<br>
<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
Roger=C2=A0 Elliott<br>
<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triumphs@au=
tox.team.net</a> **<br>
<br>
=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"n=
oreferrer">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
hs/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div><br></div>

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From: "Tom Note" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2015 18:23:17 -0400

Roger, I'd definitely deglaze the cyl. walls with a good hone. If you 
haven't done it before, take a look at some of the U-Tube videois on honing 
the cyl. A moderate speed with a smooth, but not too slow, vertical motion 
shlould produce a nice crosshatch pattern. Be careful , because there are 
some poor honing methods on U-Tube, along with the good ones.

Then, for break-in, my preference is to drive the first 20 or so miles 
conservatively, varying rpm, but avoiding lugging, or full throttle. Then I 
gradualloy work up to occasional higher rpm and harder throttle.  Then I 
start working in some harder runs,in the ~2000 to 4000 or so range. A hill 
is often useful for these runs, because you can apply the load without 
exceeding speed  limits quickly.  Let it cool by easy cruising between runs. 
The idea is to gradually apply increasing cylinder pressure to force the 
rings against the cyl walls so they don't have a chance to glaze. Hard 
throttle in this rpm range should help.

I do one session of perhaps 10 runs, and then revert to what might be 
considered a normal moderate break-in for the next several hundred miles. 
But, I believe that high cyl pressures initially are necessary to avoid 
glazing the cyls.

Please note: the above method is MY procedure for break-in of my TR6 engine. 
I have not tried it on a Spitfire engine, and it's up to you to try it or 
not. Another consideration is that perhaps the rpm range should be somewhat 
higher in a Spitfire than for a TR6.I have no experience with Spitfires.

Good luck, Roger.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roger Elliott" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2015 3:46 PM
Subject: [TR] Rings Not seating

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: "Dave Connitt" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2015 20:56:34 -0400

Roger,
Just a thought but have you done a compression check recently?
If you have, were you able to determine which cylinder is low?
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS