Subject: Re: [TR] wheel studs - TR3

From: "Dixie4" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 10:01:00 +0100

This not intended as mail to Randal just adding to the thread.

If you need longer studs and they are not available from the suppliers then 
you will have to make some your self.

In the first instance do some research regarding thread size and grade of 
steel. Secondly, buy sufficient steel bar of the correct diameter and, if 
you do not have one already a cheap die stock and a top quality die. Believe 
me a cheap quality die and you will have an almighty f***  up!.
The only tool extras would be the use of a pillar drill with a good machine 
vice with vertical slots in the jaws, a square and a bench vice.
The wheel or wire wheel adapter when fitted to the car should be mounted on 
a thread free part of the stud.
So this means 32 thread starts hence the square, pillar drill and vices to 
ensure squareness. The pillar drill you also use for putting an angle  say 
45 deg on the ends of each stud to help the start of the thread. A file is 
handy for this with the stud mounted in a  rotating chuck.
It is pretty obvious that the vices and square are for accurate vertical 
mounting of the steel. But my tip of the day is when mounting the die in 
it's holder mount it the wrong way around so that back side of the die 
without the taper is to the outside facing up using the die holder upside 
down.
The drill chuck should have the jaws withdrawn. With the drill unplugged use 
the face side of the chuck, adding a very slight amount of pressure to 
square up the die, a squirt of engine oil and start the thread. A two or 
three turns on each end of each stud should do it and finish them at the 
bench to the required lengths with the die stock and die set up in it's 
conventional position. Don't forget that a good die stock has three screws 
the first cut is with the centre one wound in tight by hand and the outer 
two wound in just enough to hold the die. The second cut vice versa or to 
your own preference.
Next is to fit to the front hubs, sadly removed from the car for peening 
purposes. In my view some Loctite would be a good idea on the hub threads at 
the same time. At the rear, the same, with the driveshaft's removed of 
course, quite easy with fully floating hubs.
Some of the above may be like telling your father how to make children but 
worth mentioning.
I have done this many times in the past when fitting alternative wheels to 
my rally cars and it has always proved successful.
You also have the satisfaction that you have done it for yourself and not 
taken the easy option of buying off the shelf.

I hope it helps the original Lister and anyone else contemplating this 
process.

Adrian 1966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 5:20 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] wheel studs - TR3

>> Not the same. TR3 studs thread into the flange from the front
>> and are peened at the back to hold them in place.
>> At least that is what I recall, haven't worked on one for a while.
>
> Your memory is good.  Also applies to TR4.
>
> It used to be that you could buy aftermarket studs that were threaded all 
> the way, and thread them in from the back; but I couldn't
> find any the last time I looked.
>
> And when I tried to install knurled studs in a TR3A hub many decades ago, 
> the hub was so hard that it just sheared the knurl off the
> studs and left them loose.  Might have worked better if I had tapered the 
> hole, but I was 1000 miles from home and lucky to even
> come up with a drill & bit.
>
> -- Randall
>
>
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---

From: "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 08:50:58 -0400

That was the original thought - to add to the thread :-)

Thanks for the detailed advice.

Andrew

----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 5:20 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] wheel studs - TR3

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