Subject: [TR] Running down oil leaks

From: "Dave Connitt" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 20:27:10 -0400

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Hello everyone,
So I am getting close to plugging all the oil leaks on my TR4A IRS but I =
have a question for the list.
One of the sources of leaking oil was relating to the cast aluminum oil =
filter assembly. Specifically there were two leaks;
1. There was a leak between the large hex "bolt"on top of the oil filter =
casting and the casting. Easy fix, just had to tighten the "bolt"
2. The second leak was between the lock nut holding the screw that holds =
the screw locked into item 1 and the hex "bolt".=20
There was no mention of this assembly in my shop manual but I did find =
an exploded view of the cast aluminum oil filter attachment assembly. =
The exploded view shows "lead wire" as a sealant between that adjustment =
screw and the hex "bolt".  From the exploded view, it looks like you are =
just supposed to wrap two or three turns around the locking nut and =
tighten it up..=20

My question is, what have other people used to replace the "lead wire"?

I think what happened is that years ago when I was cleaning the aluminum =
oil filter attachment assembly, I put it back together off the engine =
and probably didn't have a way to really tighten either pieces. I =
cleaned it all off with carb cleaner after I tightened them and went for =
a quick spin and all seems dry!
Two down and no idea how many more but it is marking it's territory less =
and less.
Regards,
Dave Connitt
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hello everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>So I am getting close to plugging all the oil =
leaks on my=20
TR4A IRS but I have a question for the list.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>One of the sources of leaking oil was relating =
to the cast=20
aluminum oil filter assembly. Specifically there were two =
leaks;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>1. There was a leak between the large hex =
"bolt"on top of=20
the oil filter casting and the casting. Easy fix, just had to tighten =
the=20
"bolt"</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>2. The second leak was between the lock nut =
holding the=20
screw that holds the screw locked into item 1 and the hex "bolt". =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>There was no mention of this assembly in my shop =
manual=20
but I did find an exploded view of the cast aluminum oil filter =
attachment=20
assembly. The exploded view shows "lead wire" as a sealant between that=20
adjustment screw and the hex "bolt".&nbsp; From the exploded view, it =
looks like=20
you are just supposed to wrap two or three turns around the locking nut =
and=20
tighten it up.. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>My question is, what have other people used to =
replace the=20
"lead wire"?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I think what happened is that years ago when I =
was=20
cleaning the aluminum oil filter attachment assembly, I put it back =
together off=20
the engine and probably didn't have a way to really tighten either =
pieces. I=20
cleaned it all off with carb cleaner after I tightened them and went for =
a quick=20
spin and all seems dry!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Two down and no idea how many more but it is =
marking it's=20
territory less and less.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Dave Connitt</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 19:47:34 -0700

> I thought about solder too but in has acid flux in the center

Solid (no acid or rosin) solder is still available, although I don't see how rosin core would hurt anything.

Also, you can still buy pure lead wire (although the first one I found was kind of pricy, IMO).
<http://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Pure-99-9-Lead-Wire/dp/B001QUXES8/ref=pd_sim_indust_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=00FSV84ZZ1RYK045CKQ1>

But for that locknut, I just used a copper washer with some Hylomar smeared on it.  In other places, I've been known to smear the
shank of the bolt with RTV (but you have to be careful not to get the RTV into blind holes or let it squeeze out into internal
passages).

-- Randall