Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Bolt

From: David Friedlander <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2015 18:22:25 -0400

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Hey all;

I'm sure (?) there an easy answer here but HOW does one remove the rear
bolt to
the AC mechanical fuel pump? At least on the TR3, it's all I can do to SEE
the bolt
much less loosen it! Front bolt is out, no problem but it seems the boys at
Triumph
went out of their way to shield this one from access.

Thanks for any insight...

Dave Friedlander
'59 TR3A

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Hey all;<br><br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,15=
3)">I&#39;m sure (?) there an easy answer here but HOW does one remove the =
rear bolt to <br>the AC mechanical fuel pump? At least on the TR3, it&#39;s=
 all I can do to SEE the bolt<br>much less loosen it! Front bolt is out, no=
 problem but it seems the boys at Triumph <br>went out of their way to shie=
ld this one from access. <br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Thanks for any=
 insight... <br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family=
:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Dave Friedlander<br></div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;col=
or:rgb(0,0,153)">&#39;59 TR3A<br></div></div>

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 17:11:39 -0700

> I've R&Red my fuel pump a few times over the decades and I 
> just don't remember it being that difficult of a job.  I 
> wonder what I did?

Beats me.  I found that Justin's trick with the flex socket made it a lot easier; before that I had to go 1/12 turn at a time (by
flipping the wrench over) but it still came off.  Yeah, tight quarters and all those things are in the way, but I did it from above
and don't recall having to remove anything to gain access.

Lots easier than the throttle shaft I just put in with everything in the way.

The spinning captive nuts sure bring back memories, though!  I spent a lot of time fishing needle-nose vice grips into places I
couldn't even see, to grab the cages just long enough to work the bolts out.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31JC5R6CA3L.jpg

And more than once, I had to just cut or grind away the bolt head then repair the damage later.  These things make the repair job a
lot easier, though
http://www.mcmaster.com/?m=true#90955a113/=wspxru

-- Randall

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2015 20:34:24 -0700

Since I was in the area and my hands were dirty anyway, I thought I'd take a photo of the flex socket on the fuel pump nut.
http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0010.jpg.html

Not the best photo, I'm afraid, my camera's viewfinder wouldn't work so I was shooting blind.  But the socket is on the nut and the
ratchet is ready to turn.

-- Randall

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From: ADRIAN DIX-DYER <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2015 09:25:25 +0100

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Two essentials in my tool box are top quality Vise grips and a Snap-On
wobble socket adapter.

For those of you that have never seen the wobble adapter it is about an
inch long, fits neatly on a socket rail and allows 10-15 deg of side play.
Over the years I have found that I tend to use it all the time as a matter
of course.
I favour 3/8" drive sockets as 1/2" are sometimes too chunky for difficult
access areas.

A quick note regarding captive nuts. TRBitz here in UK sell the Triumph
original pattern which is good where they are seen under the bonnet/hood.
For instance in my case around the pedal box area when I converted my TR4A
from LHD to RHD. Nuts and bolts would suffice but not authentic

Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK.

On 18 April 2015 at 04:34, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Since I was in the area and my hands were dirty anyway, I thought I'd take
> a photo of the flex socket on the fuel pump nut.
> Not the best photo, I'm afraid, my camera's viewfinder wouldn't work so I
> was shooting blind.  But the socket is on the nut and the
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div><div><div><div><div>Two essentials in my tool bo=
x are top quality Vise grips and a Snap-On wobble socket adapter.<br><br></=
div>For those of you that have never seen the wobble adapter it is about an=
 inch long, fits neatly on a socket rail and allows 10-15 deg of side play.=
 Over the years I have found that I tend to use it all the time as a matter=
 of course.<br></div>I favour 3/8&quot; drive sockets as 1/2&quot; are some=
times too chunky for difficult access areas.<br><br></div>A quick note rega=
rding captive nuts. TRBitz here in UK sell the Triumph original pattern whi=
ch is good where they are seen under the bonnet/hood. For instance in my ca=
se around the pedal box area when I converted my TR4A from LHD to RHD. Nuts=
 and bolts would suffice but not authentic<br><br></div>Adrian<br></div>196=
6 TR4A CT64306 O<br></div>Wales UK.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br=
><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On 18 April 2015 at 04:34, Randall <span dir=3D=
"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">TR3drive=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" styl=
e=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Since I=
 was in the area and my hands were dirty anyway, I thought I&#39;d take a p=
hoto of the flex socket on the fuel pump nut.<br>
<a href=3D"http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0010.=
jpg.html" target=3D"_blank">http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/medi=
a/Tools/DSCF0010.jpg.html</a><br>
<br>
Not the best photo, I&#39;m afraid, my camera&#39;s viewfinder wouldn&#39;t=
 work so I was shooting blind.=C2=A0 But the socket is on the nut and the<b=
r>
ratchet is ready to turn.<br>
<div class=3D"HOEnZb"><div class=3D"h5"><br>
-- Randall<br>
<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> *=
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</div></div></blockquote></div><br></div>

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