Subject: Re: [TR] Running down oil leaks

From: David Friedlander <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 20:48:52 -0400

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Dave;

Seems to me a(n) LBC only stops 'marking' when it's OUT OF OIL! LOL!

Perhaps a few wraps of small diameter solder would do the trick....?

Dave Friedlander

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 8:27 PM, Dave Connitt <[email-masked]> wrote:

>  Hello everyone,
> So I am getting close to plugging all the oil leaks on my TR4A IRS but I
> have a question for the list.
> One of the sources of leaking oil was relating to the cast aluminum oil
> filter assembly. Specifically there were two leaks;
> 1. There was a leak between the large hex "bolt"on top of the oil filter
> casting and the casting. Easy fix, just had to tighten the "bolt"
> 2. The second leak was between the lock nut holding the screw that holds
> the screw locked into item 1 and the hex "bolt".
> There was no mention of this assembly in my shop manual but I did find an
> exploded view of the cast aluminum oil filter attachment assembly. The
> exploded view shows "lead wire" as a sealant between that adjustment screw
> and the hex "bolt".  From the exploded view, it looks like you are just
> supposed to wrap two or three turns around the locking nut and tighten it
> up..
>
> My question is, what have other people used to replace the "lead wire"?
>
> I think what happened is that years ago when I was cleaning the aluminum
> oil filter attachment assembly, I put it back together off the engine and
> probably didn't have a way to really tighten either pieces. I cleaned it
> all off with carb cleaner after I tightened them and went for a quick spin
> and all seems dry!
> Two down and no idea how many more but it is marking it's territory less
> and less.
> Regards,
> Dave Connitt
>
>
> ** [email-masked] **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Dave;<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail=
_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)"=
>Seems to me a(n) LBC only stops &#39;marking&#39; when it&#39;s OUT OF OIL=
! LOL!<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic=
 sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Perhaps a few wraps of small diamet=
er solder would do the trick....?<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default"=
 style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Dave Fri=
edlander<br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote">On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 8:27 PM, Dave Connitt <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;=
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 =
0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>

<div bgcolor=3D"#ffffff">
<div><font face=3D"Arial">Hello everyone,</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">So I am getting close to plugging all the oil lea=
ks on my=20
TR4A IRS but I have a question for the list.</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">One of the sources of leaking oil was relating to=
 the cast=20
aluminum oil filter assembly. Specifically there were two leaks;</font></di=
v>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">1. There was a leak between the large hex &quot;b=
olt&quot;on top of=20
the oil filter casting and the casting. Easy fix, just had to tighten the=
=20
&quot;bolt&quot;</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">2. The second leak was between the lock nut holdi=
ng the=20
screw that holds the screw locked into item 1 and the hex &quot;bolt&quot;.=
 </font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">There was no mention of this assembly in my shop =
manual=20
but I did find an exploded view of the cast aluminum oil filter attachment=
=20
assembly. The exploded view shows &quot;lead wire&quot; as a sealant betwee=
n that=20
adjustment screw and the hex &quot;bolt&quot;.=C2=A0 From the exploded view=
, it looks like=20
you are just supposed to wrap two or three turns around the locking nut and=
=20
tighten it up.. </font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">My question is, what have other people used to re=
place the=20
&quot;lead wire&quot;?</font></div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">I think what happened is that years ago when I wa=
s=20
cleaning the aluminum oil filter attachment assembly, I put it back togethe=
r off=20
the engine and probably didn&#39;t have a way to really tighten either piec=
es. I=20
cleaned it all off with carb cleaner after I tightened them and went for a =
quick=20
spin and all seems dry!</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">Two down and no idea how many more but it is mark=
ing it&#39;s=20
territory less and less.</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">Regards,</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">Dave Connitt</font></div></div>
<br><br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> *=
*<br>
<br>
//www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://w=
ww.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank">http://www=
.team.net/forums</a><br>
hs/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/opti=
ons/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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** [email-masked] **

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From: "Dave Connitt" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 21:17:29 -0400

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Hi Dave,
For the time being it seems to not be leaking but I am just looking for =
possible solutions in case it starts leaking again..
I thought about solder too but in has acid flux in the center of it.=20
I remember back when I was a kid in the 60's my dad used to use lead =
wire to measure the clearances in babbit bearings of the connecting rods =
and main bearings in the antique cars we used to rebuild. He would put a =
small piece of lead wire across the bearing cap, install the bearing, =
rotate the engine a couple of turns, remove the bearing cap and measure =
the thickness of the lead wire with a micrometer.
Plasti-gage is the modern day replacement.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: David Friedlander=20
  To: Dave Connitt=20
  Cc: TR3 Triumphs=20
  Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2015 8:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Running down oil leaks

  Dave;

  Dave Friedlander

  On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 8:27 PM, Dave Connitt <[email-masked]> =
wrote:

    Hello everyone,
    So I am getting close to plugging all the oil leaks on my TR4A IRS =
but I have a question for the list.
    One of the sources of leaking oil was relating to the cast aluminum =
oil filter assembly. Specifically there were two leaks;
    1. There was a leak between the large hex "bolt"on top of the oil =
filter casting and the casting. Easy fix, just had to tighten the "bolt"
    2. The second leak was between the lock nut holding the screw that =
holds the screw locked into item 1 and the hex "bolt".=20
    There was no mention of this assembly in my shop manual but I did =
find an exploded view of the cast aluminum oil filter attachment =
assembly. The exploded view shows "lead wire" as a sealant between that =
adjustment screw and the hex "bolt".  From the exploded view, it looks =
like you are just supposed to wrap two or three turns around the locking =
nut and tighten it up..=20

    My question is, what have other people used to replace the "lead =
wire"?

    I think what happened is that years ago when I was cleaning the =
aluminum oil filter attachment assembly, I put it back together off the =
engine and probably didn't have a way to really tighten either pieces. I =
cleaned it all off with carb cleaner after I tightened them and went for =
a quick spin and all seems dry!
    Two down and no idea how many more but it is marking it's territory =
less and less.
    Regards,
    Dave Connitt

    Unsubscribe/Manage: =

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<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META name=3DGENERATOR content=3D"MSHTML 9.00.8112.16636">
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hi Dave,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>For the time being it seems to not be leaking =
but I am=20
just looking for possible solutions in case it starts leaking=20
again..</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I thought about solder too but in has acid flux =
in the=20
center of it. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I remember back when I was a kid in the 60's my =
dad used=20
to use lead wire to measure the clearances in babbit bearings of the =
connecting=20
rods and main bearings in the antique cars we used to rebuild. He would =
put a=20
small piece of lead wire across the bearing cap, install the bearing, =
rotate the=20
engine a couple of turns, remove the bearing cap and measure the =
thickness of=20
the lead wire with a micrometer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Plasti-gage&nbsp;is the modern day=20
replacement.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Dave Connitt</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=[email-masked] href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">David =

  Friedlander</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Dave Connitt</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Cc:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">TR3 Triumphs</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, April 30, 2015 =
8:48=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [TR] Running down =
oil=20
  leaks</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dltr>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: comic sans ms,sans-serif; COLOR: =
rgb(0,0,153)"=20
  class=3Dgmail_default>Dave;<BR><BR></DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: comic sans ms,sans-serif; COLOR: =
rgb(0,0,153)"=20
  class=3Dgmail_default>Seems to me a(n) LBC only stops 'marking' when =
it's OUT OF=20
  OIL! LOL!<BR><BR></DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: comic sans ms,sans-serif; COLOR: =
rgb(0,0,153)"=20
  class=3Dgmail_default>Perhaps a few wraps of small diameter solder =
would do the=20
  trick....?<BR><BR></DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: comic sans ms,sans-serif; COLOR: =
rgb(0,0,153)"=20
  class=3Dgmail_default>Dave Friedlander<BR></DIV></DIV>
  <DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR>
  <DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 8:27 PM, Dave Connitt =
<SPAN=20
  dir=3Dltr>&lt;<A href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=20
  target=3D_blank>[email-masked]</A>&gt;</SPAN> wrote:<BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; =
PADDING-LEFT: 1ex"=20
  class=3Dgmail_quote><U></U>
    <DIV bgcolor=3D"#ffffff">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hello everyone,</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>So I am getting close to plugging all the =
oil leaks on=20
    my TR4A IRS but I have a question for the list.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>One of the sources of leaking oil was =
relating to the=20
    cast aluminum oil filter assembly. Specifically there were two=20
    leaks;</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>1. There was a leak between the large hex =
"bolt"on top=20
    of the oil filter casting and the casting. Easy fix, just had to =
tighten the=20
    "bolt"</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>2. The second leak was between the lock nut =
holding=20
    the screw that holds the screw locked into item 1 and the hex =
"bolt".=20
    </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>There was no mention of this assembly in my =
shop=20
    manual but I did find an exploded view of the cast aluminum oil =
filter=20
    attachment assembly. The exploded view shows "lead wire" as a =
sealant=20
    between that adjustment screw and the hex "bolt".&nbsp; From the =
exploded=20
    view, it looks like you are just supposed to wrap two or three turns =
around=20
    the locking nut and tighten it up.. </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>My question is, what have other people used =
to replace=20
    the "lead wire"?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I think what happened is that years ago when =
I was=20
    cleaning the aluminum oil filter attachment assembly, I put it back =
together=20
    off the engine and probably didn't have a way to really tighten =
either=20
    pieces. I cleaned it all off with carb cleaner after I tightened =
them and=20
    went for a quick spin and all seems dry!</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Two down and no idea how many more but it is =
marking=20
    it's territory less and less.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Dave Connitt</FONT></DIV></DIV><BR><BR>** <A =

    href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A>=20
    **<BR><BR>Donate: <A href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"=20
    target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/donate.html</A><BR>Archive: <A=20
    href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"=20
    target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/archive</A><BR>Forums: <A=20
    href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums"=20
    =
target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/forums</A><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage: <A =

    =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]=
"=20
    =
target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7@g=
mail.com</A><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HT=
ML>

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