Subject: [TR] Brake handle rubber interior trim

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2015 17:45:36 +0000 (UTC)

A dozen years ago when I first brought my TR3A zombie back from the land of the living dead, I purchased a rubber seal to place over the brake handle.  Over the years, it tore apart.  During the hottest part of last summer, my wife complained of engine heat roasting her legs on the one trip I could convince her to ride with me.  

So ordered a new rubber seal, I believe from TRF.  Wow.  It didn't come with just the rubber seal itself this time.  Now it comes with metal brackets to hold it in place.  Easy peazy and should last longer.  Gratitude and compliments to whomever on the design.  Only thing I did different was swap out the screws for stainless steel ones.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2015 17:48:12 +0000 (UTC)

To replace the grease fittings to elbow type on my clutch arm, I removed the transmission tunnel.  I did not replace the capture nuts when I rebuilt the car and they've continued to deteriorate to the point where I barely have enough to keep the shape right.  

Is there a workaround for bad capture nuts without having to resort to welding, which would be a tight PIA with the engine in the car?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2015 14:19:25 -0700

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On Thu, Apr 2, 2015 at 10:45 AM, <[email-masked]> wrote:

>
> ...So ordered a new rubber seal, I believe from TRF.  Wow.  It didn't come
> with just the rubber seal itself this time.  Now it comes with metal
> brackets to hold it in place.  Easy peazy and should last longer.
> Gratitude and compliments to whomever on the design....

I don't know the name of 'whomever' but I'm pretty sure he would have had a
Coventry postal code.

IOW, I believe those metal pieces are how it was supposed to be.

Geo

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On T=
hu, Apr 2, 2015 at 10:45 AM,  <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:terry=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:=
<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;pad=
ding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);border-left-width:1px;bord=
er-left-style:solid"><br>
...So ordered a new rubber seal, I believe from TRF.=C2=A0 Wow.=C2=A0 It di=
dn&#39;t come with just the rubber seal itself this time.=C2=A0 Now it come=
s with metal brackets to hold it in place.=C2=A0 Easy peazy and should last=
 longer.=C2=A0 Gratitude and compliments to whomever on the design....</blo=
ckquote><div>=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I don&#39;t know the name of &=
#39;whomever&#39; but I&#39;m pretty sure he would have had a Coventry post=
al code.</div><div><br></div><div>IOW, I believe=C2=A0those metal pieces ar=
e how it was supposed to be.</div><div><br></div><div>Geo=C2=A0</div></div>=
</div></div>

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2015 19:20:59 -0400

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> Is there a workaround for bad capture nuts without having to resort to
> welding, which would be a tight PIA with the engine in the car?
>
I have used Easy-Align Weld Nuts, Part No. 90955A126, from McMaster Carr
without welding by drilling two holes in each and pop rivet them to the
floor pans.
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