Subject: [TR] Tripod Headlight Problems

From: "Jonas Payne" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2015 15:40:42 -0700

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I have tripod headlamps on my TR3.

For some time, only the driver side would work on low beam, and the
passenger side only on high beam.

I have taken everything apart, and there is no problem with either the
wiring or the bulbs.

When I plug in sealed beam units, both sides work on high and low beams.

Could it be that the draw from the higher performance lamps is causing the
problem?

Jonas Payne

PBR Consulting Services, LLC

702.882.6711

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class=3DMsoNormal>I have tripod headlamps on my TR3.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>For some =
time, only the driver side would work on low beam, and the passenger =
side only on high beam.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I have taken =
everything apart, and there is no problem with either the wiring or the =
bulbs.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>When I plug in sealed beam units, both sides work on =
high and low beams.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Could it be =
that the draw from the higher performance lamps is causing the =
problem?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Jonas Payne<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>PBR =
Consulting Services, LLC<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>702.882.6711<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2015 16:41:04 -0700

> Could it be that the draw from the higher performance lamps 
> is causing the problem?

Almost impossible, especially since they aren't likely to draw that much more than sealed beam, and you say they don't work at all
(as opposed to being dim/yellow).

Try swapping the bulbs side to side; I think you'll find that the problem follows the bulb (meaning both bulbs are bad but in
different ways).

Another approach is to plug the bulb into the socket most of the way, but leave just enough room to get in there with a voltmeter
probe.  If there is 12v on the pins, and the bulb isn't lit, you know where the problem is.

-- Randall

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2015 23:09:29 -0700

> I have tried two different bulbs - one is 12V45/40W the other 
> is 12V65/55W

That's nowhere near enough to even talk about overloading the original wiring.  You've got something else going on, like poor
contact at the socket for the bulb, or a broken wire, or possibly a cracked bullet sleeve.  Since the wiring for both sides is
common up to the dimmer switch, the problem has to be somewhere between there and the bulbs.

If you don't want to pull the headlight assemblies apart to access the pins, then you could start at the bullet connectors near the
horns.  Turn the lights on, then check what is actually being delivered to the wires.  Usually you can force the meter probes in
between the vinyl outer sleeve and the wire insulation, to touch the back of the bullet without damaging anything.

Digital multimeters are so cheap (cheap ones are less than a quart of decent oil), there is no excuse not to have one.  Of course
you tend to get what you pay for, but even these are adequate for chasing "no light" conditions:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

-- Randall