Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 Cabriolet

From: Joao Simoes <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 02:01:36 -0500

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Thanks so much for the responses. Paul, I have read your website with intere=
st. Thanks for the response!
My GT6 donor chassis has the 3rail trans and no OD. Which I assume is the 3:=
27, so you are saying the stock GT6 was sluggish off the line?=20
If so, I can the use the 3.89 diff that came with my 78 Spitfire body donor,=
 right?
I have said Spitfire's trans too, did you say I could swap its shift mechani=
sm onto the GT6 's? Why would i do that? Is it better?

Take care,

Joao

> On Feb 27, 2015, at 2:52 PM, [email-masked] wrote:
>=20
> spit and GT6 tranny are not directly swapable.... input shafts are differe=
nt....=20
> swapping shafts would require swapping laygears, which requires swapping a=
ll gears.....
> just go with the 3rail.
> You CAN swap the shifter mechanisms...but not really worth the effort or t=
rying to collect all the right parts.
> Late Spit 1500 single rails came with a j-type o/d...doesn't 'bang' as har=
d shifting, uses lower currents to switch the solenoid, simpler wiring.
> GT6 used a d-type. needs a relay and different wiring
> I just ever so slightly slip my clutch on d-type o/d switch out ...no big d=
eal.  FIS6 (Fuel Injected Spit6) is running around 136 hp
> http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit6whiteyFI/spit6whiteyFI_fulleng=
ine1.html
>=20
> Has around 15K+ on it now, including  3 long road trips that included trac=
k laps (sissy laps but still drove the tracks at speeds we weren't suppose t=
o)=20
> Now you CAN get j-type o/d shafts for the three rail....so you could insta=
ll a j-type on your three rail GT6 tranny...requires a full tear down though=
 to swap shafts.
>=20
>=20
> The 3.27 diff and a non-o/d final drive ratio is nearly identical to the 3=
.89 rear and o/d switch on.
> The 3.27 carrier is the weakest of all the diffs (smallest carrier diamete=
r...thinner walls carrying the ring gear)
> Getting off the line in the GT6 with a 3.27 is sluggish. Hence the 3.89 an=
d o/d.
> There is a 3.63 avail, but matching a speedo is a pain (revs per mile erro=
rs)=20
> =20
> =20
> Paul Tegler
> [email-masked]
> www.teglerizer.com
> =20
> On 02/27/15, [email-masked] wrote:
> =20
> Hi folks.
> =20
> I have a couple more questions on the GT6 I was hoping for some wisdom her=
e.
> =20
> 1- I have the choice of using a '73 '3 rail' trans that came with the GT6 c=
hassis or a '78 'Marina' trans from my '78 Spitfire donor car. Any recommend=
ations? I am planning on 'massaging' the 2.0 liter inline 6 to about 130 HP o=
r so. I understand both trannies are equivalent in handling engine power (ap=
parently not very) :)
> =20
> 2- I also understand the diffs are pretty much the same as far as power ha=
ndling. I plan on getting and overdrive, so is the 3.89 ratio from the Spitf=
ire is what the factory used in the US. But, apparently the German GT6s with=
 OD used the US non OD ratio, the 3:27, maybe that is better for a more rela=
xed cruise? Not planning on drag racing much, but also don't want a car that=
 cant get out of its own way.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> ** [email-masked] **
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler=
@verizon.net

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Thanks so much for the responses. Paul=
, I have read your website with interest. Thanks for the response!</div><div=
>My GT6 donor chassis has the 3rail trans and no OD. Which I assume is the 3=
:27, so you are saying the stock GT6 was sluggish off the line?&nbsp;</div><=
div>If so, I can the use the 3.89 diff that came with my 78 Spitfire body do=
nor, right?</div><div>I have said Spitfire's trans too, did you say I could s=
wap its shift mechanism onto the GT6 's? Why would i do that? Is it better?<=
/div><div><br></div><div><br><br>Take care,<div><br></div><div>Joao</div></d=
iv><div><br>On Feb 27, 2015, at 2:52 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
et">[email-masked]</a> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><d=
iv><div style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE: 12px"><di=
v>spit and GT6 tranny are not directly swapable.... input shafts are differe=
nt.... <br>swapping shafts would require swapping laygears, which requires s=
wapping all gears.....<br>just go with the 3rail.<br>You CAN swap the shifte=
r mechanisms...but not really worth the effort or trying to collect all the r=
ight parts.<br>Late Spit 1500 single rails came with a j-type o/d...doesn't '=
bang' as hard shifting, uses lower currents to switch the solenoid, simpler w=
iring.<br>GT6 used a d-type. needs a relay and different wiring<br>I just ev=
er so slightly slip my clutch on d-type o/d switch out ...no big deal.&nbsp;=
 FIS6 (Fuel Injected Spit6) is running around 136 hp<br><a href=3D"http://ww=
w.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit6whiteyFI/spit6whiteyFI_fullengine1.html">=
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit6whiteyFI/spit6whiteyFI_fullengin=
e1.html</a><br><br>Has around 15K+ on it now, including&nbsp; 3 long road tr=
ips that included track laps (sissy laps but still drove the tracks at speed=
s we weren't suppose to) <br>Now you CAN get j-type o/d shafts for the three=
 rail....so you could install a j-type on your three rail GT6 tranny...requi=
res a full tear down though to swap shafts.<br><br><br>The 3.27 diff and a n=
on-o/d final drive ratio is nearly identical to the 3.89 rear and o/d switch=
 on.<br>The 3.27 carrier is the weakest of all the diffs (smallest carrier d=
iameter...thinner walls carrying the ring gear)<br>Getting off the line in t=
he GT6 with a 3.27 is sluggish. Hence the 3.89 and o/d.<br>There is a 3.63 a=
vail, but matching a speedo is a pain (revs per mile errors) <br></div><div>=
&nbsp;</div><div>&nbsp;</div><span>Paul Tegler<br><a href=3D"mailto:ptegler@=
verizon.net">[email-masked]</a><br><a href=3D"http://www.teglerizer.com=
">www.teglerizer.com</a></span><div>&nbsp;</div><div style=3D"border-top:1px=
 solid #bcbcbc;margin:5px 0px;"></div><span style=3D"font-size:12;font-famil=
y:arial;color:#000000;">On 02/27/15, <span><a href=3D"mailto:jmbs46@comcast.=
net">[email-masked]</a></span> wrote:</span><div>&nbsp;</div><div style=3D=
"font-size:12;font-family:arial;color:#000000;"><div style=3D"font-family: A=
rial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>Hi folks.<br></div><div>&nbsp;</=
div><div>I have a couple more questions on the GT6 I was hoping for some wis=
dom here.</div><div>&nbsp;</div><div>1- I have the choice of using a '73 '3 r=
ail' trans that came with the GT6 chassis or a '78 'Marina' trans from my '7=
8 Spitfire donor car. Any recommendations? I am planning on 'massaging' the 2=
.0 liter inline 6 to about 130 HP or so. I understand both trannies are equi=
valent in&nbsp;handling engine power (apparently not very) :) </div><div>&nb=
sp;</div><div>2- I also understand the diffs are pretty much the same as far=
 as power handling. I plan on getting and overdrive, so is the 3.89 ratio fr=
om the Spitfire is what the factory used in the US. But, apparently the Germ=
an GT6s with OD used the US non OD ratio, the 3:27, maybe that is better for=
 a more relaxed cruise? Not planning on drag racing much, but also don't wan=
t a car that cant get out of its own way.</div></div><br><hr size=3D"1"><br>=
<br>** <a class=3D"parsedEmail" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" targ=
et=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a> **<br><br>Donate: <a class=3D"pars=
edLink" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a class=3D"parsedLink" href=3D"http:=
//www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br=
>Forums: <a class=3D"parsedLink" href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a class=3D"p=
arsedLink" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@ve=
rizon.net" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/=
[email-masked]</a><br></div></div>
</div></blockquote></body></html>=

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: ptegler <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 08:42:59 -0500

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...was just talking the interchangeability of some parts...and some not.
What year GT6? some earlier models used a smaller axle and driveshaft 
flange size you might have to swap as well

ptegler

On 2/28/2015 2:01 AM, Joao Simoes wrote:
> Thanks so much for the responses. Paul, I have read your website with 
> interest. Thanks for the response!
> My GT6 donor chassis has the 3rail trans and no OD. Which I assume is 
> the 3:27, so you are saying the stock GT6 was sluggish off the line?
> If so, I can the use the 3.89 diff that came with my 78 Spitfire body 
> donor, right?
> I have said Spitfire's trans too, did you say I could swap its shift 
> mechanism onto the GT6 's? Why would i do that? Is it better?
>
>
>
> Take care,
>
> Joao
>
> On Feb 27, 2015, at 2:52 PM, [email-masked] 
>
>> spit and GT6 tranny are not directly swapable.... input shafts are 
>> different....
>> swapping shafts would require swapping laygears, which requires 
>> swapping all gears.....
>> just go with the 3rail.
>> You CAN swap the shifter mechanisms...but not really worth the effort 
>> or trying to collect all the right parts.
>> Late Spit 1500 single rails came with a j-type o/d...doesn't 'bang' 
>> as hard shifting, uses lower currents to switch the solenoid, simpler 
>> wiring.
>> I just ever so slightly slip my clutch on d-type o/d switch out ...no 
>> big deal.  FIS6 (Fuel Injected Spit6) is running around 136 hp
>> http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit6whiteyFI/spit6whiteyFI_fullengine1.html
>>
>> Has around 15K+ on it now, including  3 long road trips that included 
>> track laps (sissy laps but still drove the tracks at speeds we 
>> weren't suppose to)
>> Now you CAN get j-type o/d shafts for the three rail....so you could 
>> install a j-type on your three rail GT6 tranny...requires a full tear 
>> down though to swap shafts.
>>
>>
>> The 3.27 diff and a non-o/d final drive ratio is nearly identical to 
>> the 3.89 rear and o/d switch on.
>> The 3.27 carrier is the weakest of all the diffs (smallest carrier 
>> diameter...thinner walls carrying the ring gear)
>> Getting off the line in the GT6 with a 3.27 is sluggish. Hence the 
>> 3.89 and o/d.
>> There is a 3.63 avail, but matching a speedo is a pain (revs per mile 
>> errors)
>> Paul Tegler
>> www.teglerizer.com <http://www.teglerizer.com>
>> Hi folks.
>> I have a couple more questions on the GT6 I was hoping for some 
>> wisdom here.
>> 1- I have the choice of using a '73 '3 rail' trans that came with the 
>> GT6 chassis or a '78 'Marina' trans from my '78 Spitfire donor car. 
>> Any recommendations? I am planning on 'massaging' the 2.0 liter 
>> inline 6 to about 130 HP or so. I understand both trannies are 
>> equivalent in handling engine power (apparently not very) :)
>> 2- I also understand the diffs are pretty much the same as far as 
>> power handling. I plan on getting and overdrive, so is the 3.89 ratio 
>> from the Spitfire is what the factory used in the US. But, apparently 
>> the German GT6s with OD used the US non OD ratio, the 3:27, maybe 
>> that is better for a more relaxed cruise? Not planning on drag racing 
>> much, but also don't want a car that cant get out of its own way.
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

-- 
Paul Tegler [email-masked] www.teglerizer.com

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<html>
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      http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    ...was just talking the interchangeability of some parts...and some
    not.<br>
    What year GT6? some earlier models used a smaller axle and
    driveshaft flange size you might have to swap as well<br>
    <br>
    ptegler<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/28/2015 2:01 AM, Joao Simoes
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <div>Thanks so much for the responses. Paul, I have read your
        website with interest. Thanks for the response!</div>
      <div>My GT6 donor chassis has the 3rail trans and no OD. Which I
        assume is the 3:27, so you are saying the stock GT6 was sluggish
        off the line? </div>
      <div>If so, I can the use the 3.89 diff that came with my 78
        Spitfire body donor, right?</div>
      <div>I have said Spitfire's trans too, did you say I could swap
        its shift mechanism onto the GT6 's? Why would i do that? Is it
        better?</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div><br>
        <br>
        Take care,
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Joao</div>
      </div>
      <div><br>
        On Feb 27, 2015, at 2:52 PM, <a moz-do-not-send="true"
          href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
        wrote:<br>
        <br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite">
        <div>
          <div style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); FONT-SIZE:
            12px">
            <div>spit and GT6 tranny are not directly swapable.... input
              shafts are different.... <br>
              swapping shafts would require swapping laygears, which
              requires swapping all gears.....<br>
              just go with the 3rail.<br>
              You CAN swap the shifter mechanisms...but not really worth
              the effort or trying to collect all the right parts.<br>
              Late Spit 1500 single rails came with a j-type
              o/d...doesn't 'bang' as hard shifting, uses lower currents
              to switch the solenoid, simpler wiring.<br>
              GT6 used a d-type. needs a relay and different wiring<br>
              I just ever so slightly slip my clutch on d-type o/d
              switch out ...no big deal.  FIS6 (Fuel Injected Spit6) is
              running around 136 hp<br>
              <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit6whiteyFI/spit6whiteyFI_fullengine1.html">http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit6whiteyFI/spit6whiteyFI_fullengine1.html</a><br>
              <br>
              Has around 15K+ on it now, including  3 long road trips
              that included track laps (sissy laps but still drove the
              tracks at speeds we weren't suppose to) <br>
              Now you CAN get j-type o/d shafts for the three rail....so
              you could install a j-type on your three rail GT6
              tranny...requires a full tear down though to swap shafts.<br>
              <br>
              <br>
              The 3.27 diff and a non-o/d final drive ratio is nearly
              identical to the 3.89 rear and o/d switch on.<br>
              The 3.27 carrier is the weakest of all the diffs (smallest
              carrier diameter...thinner walls carrying the ring gear)<br>
              Getting off the line in the GT6 with a 3.27 is sluggish.
              Hence the 3.89 and o/d.<br>
              There is a 3.63 avail, but matching a speedo is a pain
              (revs per mile errors) <br>
            </div>
            <div> </div>
            <div> </div>
            <span>Paul Tegler<br>
              <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
              <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.teglerizer.com">www.teglerizer.com</a></span>
            <div> </div>
            <span style="font-size:12;font-family:arial;color:#000000;">On
              02/27/15, <span><a moz-do-not-send="true"
                  href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span>
              wrote:</span>
            <div> </div>
            <div style="font-size:12;font-family:arial;color:#000000;">
              <div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color:
                #000000">
                <div>Hi folks.<br>
                </div>
                <div> </div>
                <div>I have a couple more questions on the GT6 I was
                  hoping for some wisdom here.</div>
                <div> </div>
                <div>1- I have the choice of using a '73 '3 rail' trans
                  that came with the GT6 chassis or a '78 'Marina' trans
                  from my '78 Spitfire donor car. Any recommendations? I
                  am planning on 'massaging' the 2.0 liter inline 6 to
                  about 130 HP or so. I understand both trannies are
                  equivalent in handling engine power (apparently not
                  very) :) </div>
                <div> </div>
                <div>2- I also understand the diffs are pretty much the
                  same as far as power handling. I plan on getting and
                  overdrive, so is the 3.89 ratio from the Spitfire is
                  what the factory used in the US. But, apparently the
                  German GT6s with OD used the US non OD ratio, the
                  3:27, maybe that is better for a more relaxed cruise?
                  Not planning on drag racing much, but also don't want
                  a car that cant get out of its own way.</div>
              </div>
              <br>
              <hr size="1"><br>
              <br>
              ** <a moz-do-not-send="true" class="parsedEmail"
                href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>
              **<br>
              <br>
              Donate: <a moz-do-not-send="true" class="parsedLink"
                href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
              Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true" class="parsedLink"
                href="http://www.team.net/archive" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
              Forums: <a moz-do-not-send="true" class="parsedLink"
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            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
      </blockquote>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
      Paul Tegler
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.teglerizer.com">www.teglerizer.com</a>
    </div>
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From: Joao Simoes <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 09:04:11 -0500

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It is a 1973.

Take care,

Joao

> On Feb 28, 2015, at 8:42 AM, ptegler <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> What year GT6? some earlier models used a smaller axle and driveshaft flan=
ge size you might have to swap as well
>> Thanks so much for the responses. Paul, I have read your website with int=
erest. Thanks for the response!
>> My GT6 donor chassis has the 3rail trans and no OD. Which I assume is the=
 3:27, so you are saying the stock GT6 was sluggish off the line?=20
>> If so, I can the use the 3.89 diff that came with my 78 Spitfire body don=
or, right?
>> I have said Spitfire's trans too, did you say I could swap its shift mech=
anism onto the GT6 's? Why would i do that? Is it better?
>>> spit and GT6 tranny are not directly swapable.... input shafts are diffe=
rent....=20
>>> swapping shafts would require swapping laygears, which requires swapping=
 all gears.....
>>> just go with the 3rail.
>>> You CAN swap the shifter mechanisms...but not really worth the effort or=
 trying to collect all the right parts.
>>> Late Spit 1500 single rails came with a j-type o/d...doesn't 'bang' as h=
ard shifting, uses lower currents to switch the solenoid, simpler wiring.
>>> I just ever so slightly slip my clutch on d-type o/d switch out ...no bi=
g deal.  FIS6 (Fuel Injected Spit6) is running around 136 hp
>>> http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit6whiteyFI/spit6whiteyFI_fulle=
ngine1.html
>>>=20
>>> Has around 15K+ on it now, including  3 long road trips that included tr=
ack laps (sissy laps but still drove the tracks at speeds we weren't suppose=
 to)=20
>>> Now you CAN get j-type o/d shafts for the three rail....so you could ins=
tall a j-type on your three rail GT6 tranny...requires a full tear down thou=
gh to swap shafts.
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> The 3.27 diff and a non-o/d final drive ratio is nearly identical to the=
 3.89 rear and o/d switch on.
>>> The 3.27 carrier is the weakest of all the diffs (smallest carrier diame=
ter...thinner walls carrying the ring gear)
>>> Getting off the line in the GT6 with a 3.27 is sluggish. Hence the 3.89 a=
nd o/d.
>>> There is a 3.63 avail, but matching a speedo is a pain (revs per mile er=
rors)=20
>>> I have a couple more questions on the GT6 I was hoping for some wisdom h=
ere.
>>> =20
>>> 1- I have the choice of using a '73 '3 rail' trans that came with the GT=
6 chassis or a '78 'Marina' trans from my '78 Spitfire donor car. Any recomm=
endations? I am planning on 'massaging' the 2.0 liter inline 6 to about 130 H=
P or so. I understand both trannies are equivalent in handling engine power (=
apparently not very) :)
>>> =20
>>> 2- I also understand the diffs are pretty much the same as far as power h=
andling. I plan on getting and overdrive, so is the 3.89 ratio from the Spit=
fire is what the factory used in the US. But, apparently the German GT6s wit=
h OD used the US non OD ratio, the 3:27, maybe that is better for a more rel=
axed cruise? Not planning on drag racing much, but also don't want a car tha=
t cant get out of its own way.
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegl=
[email-masked]
> --=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>It is a 1973.<br><br>Take care,<div><br></div><div>Joao</div></div><div><br>On Feb 28, 2015, at 8:42 AM, ptegler &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
  
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252" http-equiv="Content-Type">

    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
        off the line?&nbsp;</div>
        On Feb 27, 2015, at 2:52 PM, <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
              switch out ...no big deal.&nbsp; FIS6 (Fuel Injected Spit6) is
              <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit6whiteyFI/spit6whiteyFI_fullengine1.html">http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit6whiteyFI/spit6whiteyFI_fullengine1.html</a><br>
              Has around 15K+ on it now, including&nbsp; 3 long road trips
            <div>&nbsp;</div>
            <div>&nbsp;</div>
              <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
            <div>&nbsp;</div>
              02/27/15, <span><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span>
            <div>&nbsp;</div>
                <div>&nbsp;</div>
                <div>&nbsp;</div>
                  equivalent in&nbsp;handling engine power (apparently not
                <div>&nbsp;</div>
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 14:46:23 +0000 (UTC)

Good morning, everyone.  Spectacular time here in New Hampshire.  It's 12 degrees and should warm up all the way to freezing today!  Coldest February since recordkeeping started in the 19th century.  We're turning a corner and with any luck can leave all bad nature behind us!  If not, well, we'll just have to deal with it, although I confess that after this winter my patience is wearing a little thin.  

So, as the garage nears warm enough to heat with the wood stove, am readying to approach the maintenance list for this pre-season.  One thing, it needs a new battery.  There have been many discussions about these, I know, but am curious if any new battery has hit the market that that anyone feels strongly about?  Originality is not an issue for me.  

As ever, thanks everyone.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 07:51:36 -0700

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I pretty much consider the battery to be a hygiene factor.

IOW, if the one I use is able to reliably start the engine, how much better
could something else start the engine?

Because of that, whatever WalMart has in the size I want is what goes in.

Geo

On Sat, Feb 28, 2015 at 7:46 AM, <[email-masked]> wrote:

>
> Good morning, everyone.  Spectacular time here in New Hampshire.  It's 12
> degrees and should warm up all the way to freezing today!  Coldest February
> since recordkeeping started in the 19th century.  We're turning a corner
> and with any luck can leave all bad nature behind us!  If not, well, we'll
> just have to deal with it, although I confess that after this winter my
> patience is wearing a little thin.
>
> So, as the garage nears warm enough to heat with the wood stove, am
> readying to approach the maintenance list for this pre-season.  One thing,
> it needs a new battery.  There have been many discussions about these, I
> know, but am curious if any new battery has hit the market that that anyone
> feels strongly about?  Originality is not an issue for me.
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>I pretty much consider the battery to be a hygiene fa=
ctor.</div><div><br></div><div>IOW, if=C2=A0the one I use=C2=A0is able to r=
eliably start the engine, how much better could something else start the en=
gine?</div><div><br></div><div>Because of that, whatever WalMart has in the=
 size I want is what goes in.</div><div><br></div><div>Geo</div></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Feb 28, 2015 a=
t 7:46 AM,  <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote cl=
ass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;p=
adding-left:1ex"><br>
Good morning, everyone.=C2=A0 Spectacular time here in New Hampshire.=C2=A0=
 It&#39;s 12 degrees and should warm up all the way to freezing today!=C2=
=A0 Coldest February since recordkeeping started in the 19th century.=C2=A0=
 We&#39;re turning a corner and with any luck can leave all bad nature behi=
nd us!=C2=A0 If not, well, we&#39;ll just have to deal with it, although I =
confess that after this winter my patience is wearing a little thin.<br>
<br>
So, as the garage nears warm enough to heat with the wood stove, am readyin=
g to approach the maintenance list for this pre-season.=C2=A0 One thing, it=
 needs a new battery.=C2=A0 There have been many discussions about these, I=
 know, but am curious if any new battery has hit the market that that anyon=
e feels strongly about?=C2=A0 Originality is not an issue for me.<br>
<br>
As ever, thanks everyone.<br>
<br>
Terry Smith, &#39;59 TR3A<br>
New Hampshire<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> *=
*<br>
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tions/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div><br></div>

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 15:10:26 +0000 (UTC)

Cheapest U can find in a size that suits.

Ed Woods
----- Original Message -----
From: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Sent: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 14:46:23 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Batterey

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 08:49:26 -0700

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You can sort of get the best of both worlds (cheap & vintage looking) by
stripping the labels off a WalMart battery and replacing the bar caps with
individual caps.  Won't stand up to close scrutiny but is less jarring than
a modern battery in the prominent position STC chose to place it.

I do save the labels so I can put them back on if a return in necessary.

On Sat, Feb 28, 2015 at 8:29 AM, [email-masked] <[email-masked]> wrote:

> My friend has one of the fake 'tar top' covers on his TR4 battery.  Looks
> good until you look close, they fit a group 24 battery if you want to use
> one.   I may go that route when Big Red gets to that point.
>
> Beyond that comment, shop the sales at a place that you are confident will
> take care of you should you have any problems.
>
> Bill B
>
> Sent from mobile Bill
>
> On Feb 28, 2015, at 8:51 AM, Geo Hahn <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> IOW, if the one I use is able to reliably start the engine, how much
> better could something else start the engine?
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>You can sort of get the best of both worlds (cheap &a=
mp; vintage looking) by stripping the labels off a WalMart battery and repl=
acing the bar caps with individual caps.=C2=A0 Won&#39;t stand up to close =
scrutiny but is less jarring than a modern battery in the prominent positio=
n STC chose to place it.</div><div><br></div><div>I do save the labels so I=
 can put them back on if a return in necessary.</div></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Feb 28, 2015 at 8:29 AM, =
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> <span dir=3D"ltr">=
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]<=
/a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:=
0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><=
div>My friend has one of the fake &#39;tar top&#39; covers on his TR4 batte=
ry.=C2=A0 Looks good until you look close, they fit a group 24 battery if y=
ou want to use one. =C2=A0 I may go that route when Big Red gets to that po=
int. =C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Beyond that comment, shop the sales at=
 a place that you are confident will take care of you should you have any p=
roblems. =C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Bill B<br><br>Sent from mobile Bil=
l</div><div><div class=3D"h5"><div><br>On Feb 28, 2015, at 8:51 AM, Geo Hah=
n &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">ahwahneetr@=
gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>I pretty m=
uch consider the battery to be a hygiene factor.</div><div><br></div><div>I=
OW, if=C2=A0the one I use=C2=A0is able to reliably start the engine, how mu=
ch better could something else start the engine?</div><div><br></div><div>B=
ecause of that, whatever WalMart has in the size I want is what goes in.</d=
iv><div><br></div><div>Geo</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Feb 28, 2015 at 7:46 AM,  <span dir=3D"ltr">&l=
t;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">terryrs@comcast.=
net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"mar=
gin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);b=
order-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid"><br>
Good morning, everyone.=C2=A0 Spectacular time here in New Hampshire.=C2=A0=
 It&#39;s 12 degrees and should warm up all the way to freezing today!=C2=
=A0 Coldest February since recordkeeping started in the 19th century.=C2=A0=
 We&#39;re turning a corner and with any luck can leave all bad nature behi=
nd us!=C2=A0 If not, well, we&#39;ll just have to deal with it, although I =
confess that after this winter my patience is wearing a little thin.<br>
<br>
So, as the garage nears warm enough to heat with the wood stove, am readyin=
g to approach the maintenance list for this pre-season.=C2=A0 One thing, it=
 needs a new battery.=C2=A0 There have been many discussions about these, I=
 know, but am curious if any new battery has hit the market that that anyon=
e feels strongly about?=C2=A0 Originality is not an issue for me.<br>
<br>
As ever, thanks everyone.<br>
<br>
Terry Smith, &#39;59 TR3A<br>
New Hampshire<br>
<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">triumphs@au=
tox.team.net</a> **<br>
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tions/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div><br></div>
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From: "dave n" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 09:35:46 -0600

for all my cars, new and old, I get a sears die hard.

however, I will admit that sometimes I wonder if its like antifreeze - of 
which there are two manufacturers, and 2 dozen brands.

-----Original Message----- 
From: [email-masked]
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2015 8:46 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] TR3 Batterey

Good morning, everyone.  Spectacular time here in New Hampshire.  It's 12 
degrees and should warm up all the way to freezing today!  Coldest February 
since recordkeeping started in the 19th century.  We're turning a corner and 
with any luck can leave all bad nature behind us!  If not, well, we'll just 
have to deal with it, although I confess that after this winter my patience 
is wearing a little thin.

So, as the garage nears warm enough to heat with the wood stove, am readying 
to approach the maintenance list for this pre-season.  One thing, it needs a 
new battery.  There have been many discussions about these, I know, but am 
curious if any new battery has hit the market that that anyone feels 
strongly about?  Originality is not an issue for me.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: Joao Simoes <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2015 17:37:26 -0500

Hi. I have one of those non leak batteries from Odyssey in my 65 Ghia and it is smaller than stock but more powerful, does not leak anything and has a good shelf life. Also, if you keep it attached to a floating charger like Yuasa, they can be left in the garage sitting for a long time and be ready to start when it warms up. They come in many sizes and shapes so I am sure one will fit your car. When I finish my Spit6 it will certainly get one.

Take care,

Joao

> On Feb 28, 2015, at 9:46 AM, [email-masked] wrote:
> 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]