Subject: [TR] Reconnecting ball joint and vertical link

From: Jeffrey Gayton <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2015 14:20:08 -0800

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Greetings. As you may recall I recently had a memorable experience with =
the vertical link on my TR4 separating from the ball joint while pulling =
into my driveway. I=E2=80=99m not trying to put things right, but am =
having trouble. The workshop manual says to reverse the procedure for =
separating them with special tool S.166, which seems to be unavailable.

I tried using a jack under the spring pan, but the alignment between the =
ball joint and vertical link is quite a bit off and requires a lot of =
tugging on the wheel to get it to come even somewhat close fitting. In =
the end, the upper wishbone moves up before I=E2=80=99m able to force =
the link into the ball joint.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

-- Jeff

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Greetings. As you may recall I recently had a memorable =
experience with the vertical link on my TR4 separating from the ball =
joint while pulling into my driveway. I=E2=80=99m not trying to put =
things right, but am having trouble. The workshop manual says to reverse =
the procedure for separating them with special tool S.166, which seems =
to be unavailable.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I =
tried using a jack under the spring pan, but the alignment between the =
ball joint and vertical link is quite a bit off and requires a lot of =
tugging on the wheel to get it to come even somewhat close fitting. In =
the end, the upper wishbone moves up before I=E2=80=99m able to force =
the link into the ball joint.</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Any ideas?</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Thanks!<br class=3D""><div class=3D"">
<span class=3D"Apple-style-span" style=3D"border-collapse: separate; =
color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-style: normal; =
font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: =
0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: =
0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: =
auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;  "><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">-- Jeff</span>

</div>
<br class=3D""></div></body></html>=

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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Bob Labuz <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2015 17:46:25 -0500

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Jeff,

I would remove the shock and spring. You will need a spring compressor. 
This requires removal of the bottom ban.  There was a thread on that 
topic last week.

With all that tension, I dont see how you can do it with the spring intact.

Not alot of work if you have a compressor.

Bob

On 01/04/2015 05:20 PM, Jeffrey Gayton wrote:
> Greetings. As you may recall I recently had a memorable experience 
> with the vertical link on my TR4 separating from the ball joint while 
> pulling into my driveway. I’m not trying to put things right, but am 
> having trouble. The workshop manual says to reverse the procedure for 
> I tried using a jack under the spring pan, but the alignment between 
> the ball joint and vertical link is quite a bit off and requires a lot 
> of tugging on the wheel to get it to come even somewhat close fitting. 
> In the end, the upper wishbone moves up before I’m able to force the 
> link into the ball joint.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> -- Jeff
>

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      http-equiv="Content-Type">
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  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Jeff,<br>
      <br>
      I would remove the shock and spring. You will need a spring
      compressor. This requires removal of the bottom ban.  There was a
      thread on that topic last week.<br>
      <br>
      With all that tension, I dont see how you can do it with the
      spring intact.<br>
      <br>
      Not alot of work if you have a compressor.<br>
      <br>
      Bob<br>
      <br>
      On 01/04/2015 05:20 PM, Jeffrey Gayton wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      Greetings. As you may recall I recently had a memorable experience
      with the vertical link on my TR4 separating from the ball joint
      while pulling into my driveway. I’m not trying to put things
      right, but am having trouble. The workshop manual says to reverse
      the procedure for separating them with special tool S.166, which
      seems to be unavailable.
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">I tried using a jack under the spring pan, but the
        alignment between the ball joint and vertical link is quite a
        bit off and requires a lot of tugging on the wheel to get it to
        come even somewhat close fitting. In the end, the upper wishbone
        moves up before I’m able to force the link into the ball joint.</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">Any ideas?</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">Thanks!<br class="">
        <div class="">
          <span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse:
            separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica;
            font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight:
            normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal;
            orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: 0px;
            text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2;
            word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px;
            -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px;
            -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none;
            -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
            0px; "><br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
            -- Jeff</span>
        </div>
        <br>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
  </body>
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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2015 16:13:44 -0800

> I tried using a jack under the spring pan, but the alignment 
> between the ball joint and vertical link is quite a bit off 
> and requires a lot of tugging on the wheel

You lost me here.  Are you trying to do this with the road wheel installed?  Or are you tugging on the steering wheel?  If the
steering wheel is involved, my suggestion would be to disconnect the tie rod from the steering arm, so you don't have to deal with
the VL having to turn as it moves into position.

> to get it to come 
> even somewhat close fitting. In the end, the upper wishbone 
> moves up before I'm able to force the link into the ball joint.

So if I understand this; you have the ball joint assembled to the upper wishbones (aka A-arms), and the pin of the ball joint does
not line up with the hole in the vertical link.  Correct?  

At this point, with either a jack or the rebound stop supporting the spring pan, the vertical link should be free to pivot towards
and away from the shock tower, so you should be able to just hold it lined up in that axis.  If the VL won't pivot on the trunnion,
then there is something wrong with the trunnion (like perhaps the end plates are too tight or the pin is bent).

And it should be held in-line in the fore-aft direction, by the lower A-arms and trunnion.  If you have a significant fore-aft
misalignment, then something is bent or the wrong trunnion is installed.  Early TR4 with the ball joint that has two pins (one into
the VL, the other into the A-arms) take the zero-degree trunnion; while later cars with the two bolts to hold the ball joint to the
A-arms take the 3-degree trunnion.  The 3 degree trunnions are also "handed"; so you can have the wrong one of those as well.  

Randall

---

From: Jeffrey Gayton <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2015 20:03:42 -0800

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Thanks, Randall and Dave for the quick replies. Sorry for the confusion. =
When I wrote =E2=80=9Cwheel=E2=80=9D I meant the hub and brake assembly. =
The wheel is definitely off the car!

With everything else still attached, the hole on the top of the vertical =
link is a good 1-2 inches forward of the pin on the ball joint. Damage =
is a possibility, as I had to get the car from from the base of the =
driveway to the garage with everything separated.=20

I=E2=80=99m not sure what kind of movement I should and should not be =
seeing on the VL. With the VL and ball joint disconnected, the hub moves =
out and slightly forward, in one smooth motion. It doesn=E2=80=99t seem =
to me that the trunnion is binding up in either direction. My TR is late =
enough that it has the later vertical link ball joint assembly. The =
previous owner was pretty savvy, but just in case, how do I tell if I =
have the right trunnion and if it=E2=80=99s on the right way?

Please note I=E2=80=99ve not tried to improve alignment with the =
steering wheel. Perhaps that should be my next step.

Thanks again for your help. I=E2=80=99m a bit desperate to get the car =
safely out of the garage under its own power, as my lease ends in two =
weeks!

-- Jeff

> On Jan 4, 2015, at 4:13 PM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
>=20
>> I tried using a jack under the spring pan, but the alignment=20
>> between the ball joint and vertical link is quite a bit off=20
>=20
> You lost me here.  Are you trying to do this with the road wheel =
installed?  Or are you tugging on the steering wheel?  If the
> steering wheel is involved, my suggestion would be to disconnect the =
tie rod from the steering arm, so you don't have to deal with
>=20
>> to get it to come=20
>> even somewhat close fitting. In the end, the upper wishbone=20
>=20
> So if I understand this; you have the ball joint assembled to the =
upper wishbones (aka A-arms), and the pin of the ball joint does
> not line up with the hole in the vertical link.  Correct? =20
>=20
> At this point, with either a jack or the rebound stop supporting the =
spring pan, the vertical link should be free to pivot towards
> and away from the shock tower, so you should be able to just hold it =
lined up in that axis.  If the VL won't pivot on the trunnion,
> then there is something wrong with the trunnion (like perhaps the end =
plates are too tight or the pin is bent).
>=20
> And it should be held in-line in the fore-aft direction, by the lower =
A-arms and trunnion.  If you have a significant fore-aft
> misalignment, then something is bent or the wrong trunnion is =
installed.  Early TR4 with the ball joint that has two pins (one into
> the VL, the other into the A-arms) take the zero-degree trunnion; =
while later cars with the two bolts to hold the ball joint to the
> A-arms take the 3-degree trunnion.  The 3 degree trunnions are also =
"handed"; so you can have the wrong one of those as well. =20
>=20
>=20
>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Thanks, Randall and Dave for the quick replies. Sorry for the =
confusion. When I wrote =E2=80=9Cwheel=E2=80=9D I meant the hub and =
brake assembly. The wheel is definitely off the car!<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">With everything else still attached, =
the hole on the top of the vertical link is a good 1-2 inches forward of =
the pin on the ball joint. Damage is a possibility, as I had to get the =
car from from the base of the driveway to the garage with everything =
separated.&nbsp;</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">I=E2=80=99m not sure what kind of movement I should and =
should not be seeing on the VL. With the VL and ball joint disconnected, =
the hub moves out and slightly forward, in one smooth motion. It =
doesn=E2=80=99t seem to me that the trunnion is binding up in either =
direction. My TR is late enough that it has the later vertical link ball =
joint assembly. The previous owner was pretty savvy, but just in case, =
how do I tell if I have the right trunnion and if it=E2=80=99s on the =
right way?</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Please note I=E2=80=99ve not tried to improve alignment with =
the steering wheel. Perhaps that should be my next step.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Thanks again for your =
help. I=E2=80=99m a bit desperate to get the car safely out of the =
garage under its own power, as my lease ends in two weeks!<br =
class=3D""><div class=3D"">
<span class=3D"Apple-style-span" style=3D"border-collapse: separate; =
color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-style: normal; =
font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: =
0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: =
0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: =
auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;  "><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">-- Jeff</span>

</div>
<br class=3D""><div><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Jan 4, 2015, at 4:13 PM, Randall &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=
 wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"">I tried using a jack =
under the spring pan, but the alignment <br class=3D"">between the ball =
joint and vertical link is quite a bit off <br class=3D"">and requires a =
lot of tugging on the wheel<br class=3D""></blockquote><br class=3D"">You =
lost me here. &nbsp;Are you trying to do this with the road wheel =
installed? &nbsp;Or are you tugging on the steering wheel? &nbsp;If =
the<br class=3D"">steering wheel is involved, my suggestion would be to =
disconnect the tie rod from the steering arm, so you don't have to deal =
with<br class=3D"">the VL having to turn as it moves into position.<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"">to get it =
to come <br class=3D"">even somewhat close fitting. In the end, the =
upper wishbone <br class=3D"">moves up before I'm able to force the link =
into the ball joint.<br class=3D""></blockquote><br class=3D"">So if I =
understand this; you have the ball joint assembled to the upper =
wishbones (aka A-arms), and the pin of the ball joint does<br =
class=3D"">not line up with the hole in the vertical link. =
&nbsp;Correct? &nbsp;<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">At this point, with =
either a jack or the rebound stop supporting the spring pan, the =
vertical link should be free to pivot towards<br class=3D"">and away =
from the shock tower, so you should be able to just hold it lined up in =
that axis. &nbsp;If the VL won't pivot on the trunnion,<br class=3D"">then=
 there is something wrong with the trunnion (like perhaps the end plates =
are too tight or the pin is bent).<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">And it =
should be held in-line in the fore-aft direction, by the lower A-arms =
and trunnion. &nbsp;If you have a significant fore-aft<br =
class=3D"">misalignment, then something is bent or the wrong trunnion is =
installed. &nbsp;Early TR4 with the ball joint that has two pins (one =
into<br class=3D"">the VL, the other into the A-arms) take the =
zero-degree trunnion; while later cars with the two bolts to hold the =
ball joint to the<br class=3D"">A-arms take the 3-degree trunnion. =
&nbsp;The 3 degree trunnions are also "handed"; so you can have the =
wrong one of those as well. &nbsp;<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Randall<br=
 class=3D""><br class=3D""><br class=3D""></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2015 05:08:46 -0800

> With everything else still attached, the hole on the top of the vertical link is a good 1-2 inches forward of the pin on the ball
joint.

That is huge; it should be much closer than that.  Even 1/4" is cause for concern, as it will cause the trunnion to bind and make
steering difficult.

> I'm not sure what kind of movement I should and should not be 
> seeing on the VL. With the VL and ball joint disconnected, 
> the hub moves out and slightly forward, in one smooth motion. 

That sounds normal, if the steering lever is still connected to the tie rod.  The steering forces the VL to turn, which moves the
hub forward.

> The previous owner was 
> pretty savvy, but just in case, how do I tell if I have the 
> right trunnion and if it's on the right way?

If you look carefully, you should be able to see that the round vertical part of the trunnion assembly (the brass bit where the
vertical link screws in) is tilted slightly (3 degrees, which isn't much) and not perpendicular to the pin through the lower A-arms.
Check out Fig 25 on page 4.115 in the workshop manual.
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffN2FkZjI2NjktNWJiMy00YWExLWIyNjctOTYzNmI3OTg2ODM0/view?usp=sharing>
It may help to hold a small ruler up so you can see the axis of the pin better.  If you can't see it with the VL in the way, you may
have to remove it.  The vertical part should tilt so the top is closer to the rear of the car.

Another possibility I suppose is that the upper A-arms are installed wrong.  The arm with the larger offset has to go on the front.

But since it was presumably working before, I think it much more likely that you have accident damage.  Pages 4.114 through 4.116 of
the workshop manual give some dimensions to check, but you'll probably have to disassemble the suspension to make the measurements.

Don't forget to inspect the points where the suspension mounts to the frame, especially the lower pivots.  When my TR3A got wrecked
in 2005, I actually drove it home and only later discovered as I was stripping the carcass that the front pivot on the RH side was
ripped loose from the frame.  The one I bought in 1975 had the same problem, and it took several months (and multiple visits to
alignment shops) to figure that one out.  Rather dangerous, as the car would pull violently to the left when you got on the brakes
hard.  I foolishly tried to drive it that way, until someone pulled out in front of me and I could not keep the car from jumping the
curb into the oncoming lane.  (Fortunately no one was coming the other way and I was able to drive off the curb.)

-- Randall

---

From: Jeffrey Gayton <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2015 20:04:46 -0800

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Hi Randall and everyone else. I think the damage is limited to the upper =
wishbone arms. They move VERY stiffly and comparing them to the other =
side, are visibly further aft. Of course, the damage could be where they =
mount to the frame, but if that=E2=80=99s the case, the work is beyond =
my abilities. Trying to be optimistic, I=E2=80=99ve ordered new =
wishbones, as well as an upper fulcrum and ancillary parts from Moss. =
Fingers crossed!

All I need is the ability to (relatively) safely get the car out of my =
garage and to a decent repair place in the Ashland/Medford, OR area. =
There=E2=80=99s other damage to the car, unrelated to the vertical link =
disconnection, that I=E2=80=99m unable to do myself. I curse the =
shipping company, which clearly drove the car partway off the ramp when =
loading or unloading somewhere between here at Nova Scotia. =
Unfortunately, I never noticed that their contract stipulated that any =
damage to the undercarriage isn=E2=80=99t covered.

Live and learn, I guess.

-- Jeff

> On Jan 5, 2015, at 5:08 AM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
>> With everything else still attached, the hole on the top of the =
vertical link is a good 1-2 inches forward of the pin on the ball
> joint.
>=20
> That is huge; it should be much closer than that.  Even 1/4" is cause =
for concern, as it will cause the trunnion to bind and make
> steering difficult.
>=20
>> I'm not sure what kind of movement I should and should not be=20
>> seeing on the VL. With the VL and ball joint disconnected,=20
>> the hub moves out and slightly forward, in one smooth motion.=20
>=20
> That sounds normal, if the steering lever is still connected to the =
tie rod.  The steering forces the VL to turn, which moves the
> hub forward.
>=20
>> The previous owner was=20
>> pretty savvy, but just in case, how do I tell if I have the=20
> If you look carefully, you should be able to see that the round =
vertical part of the trunnion assembly (the brass bit where the
> vertical link screws in) is tilted slightly (3 degrees, which isn't =
much) and not perpendicular to the pin through the lower A-arms.
> =
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffN2FkZjI2NjktNWJiMy00YWExLWIy=
NjctOTYzNmI3OTg2ODM0/view?usp=3Dsharing>
> It may help to hold a small ruler up so you can see the axis of the =
pin better.  If you can't see it with the VL in the way, you may
> have to remove it.  The vertical part should tilt so the top is closer =
to the rear of the car.
>=20
> Another possibility I suppose is that the upper A-arms are installed =
wrong.  The arm with the larger offset has to go on the front.
>=20
> But since it was presumably working before, I think it much more =
likely that you have accident damage.  Pages 4.114 through 4.116 of
> the workshop manual give some dimensions to check, but you'll probably =
have to disassemble the suspension to make the measurements.
>=20
> Don't forget to inspect the points where the suspension mounts to the =
frame, especially the lower pivots.  When my TR3A got wrecked
> in 2005, I actually drove it home and only later discovered as I was =
stripping the carcass that the front pivot on the RH side was
> ripped loose from the frame.  The one I bought in 1975 had the same =
problem, and it took several months (and multiple visits to
> alignment shops) to figure that one out.  Rather dangerous, as the car =
would pull violently to the left when you got on the brakes
> hard.  I foolishly tried to drive it that way, until someone pulled =
out in front of me and I could not keep the car from jumping the
> curb into the oncoming lane.  (Fortunately no one was coming the other =
way and I was able to drive off the curb.)
> -- Randall =20

--Apple-Mail=_F6E0E81B-8636-4D65-AFF8-8C3FEDB48549
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Hi Randall and everyone else. I think the damage is limited =
to the upper wishbone arms. They move VERY stiffly and comparing them to =
the other side, are visibly further aft. Of course, the damage could be =
where they mount to the frame, but if that=E2=80=99s the case, the work =
is beyond my abilities. Trying to be optimistic, I=E2=80=99ve ordered =
new wishbones, as well as an upper fulcrum and ancillary parts from =
Moss. Fingers crossed!<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">All I need is the ability to (relatively) safely get the car =
out of my garage and to a decent repair place in the Ashland/Medford, OR =
area. There=E2=80=99s other damage to the car, unrelated to the vertical =
link disconnection, that I=E2=80=99m unable to do myself. I curse the =
shipping company, which clearly drove the car partway off the ramp when =
loading or unloading somewhere between here at Nova Scotia. =
Unfortunately, I never noticed that their contract stipulated that any =
damage to the undercarriage isn=E2=80=99t covered.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Live and learn, I =
guess.<br class=3D""><div class=3D"">
<span class=3D"Apple-style-span" style=3D"border-collapse: separate; =
color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-style: normal; =
font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: -webkit-auto; text-indent: =
0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: =
0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: =
auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;  "><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">-- Jeff</span>

</div>
<br class=3D""><div><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Jan 5, 2015, at 5:08 AM, Randall &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=
 wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div =
class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"">With everything else =
still attached, the hole on the top of the vertical link is a good 1-2 =
inches forward of the pin on the ball<br class=3D""></blockquote>joint.<br=
 class=3D""><br class=3D"">That is huge; it should be much closer than =
that. &nbsp;Even 1/4" is cause for concern, as it will cause the =
trunnion to bind and make<br class=3D"">steering difficult.<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"">I'm not =
sure what kind of movement I should and should not be <br =
class=3D"">seeing on the VL. With the VL and ball joint disconnected, =
<br class=3D"">the hub moves out and slightly forward, in one smooth =
motion. <br class=3D""></blockquote><br class=3D"">That sounds normal, =
if the steering lever is still connected to the tie rod. &nbsp;The =
steering forces the VL to turn, which moves the<br class=3D"">hub =
forward.<br class=3D""><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" =
class=3D"">The previous owner was <br class=3D"">pretty savvy, but just =
in case, how do I tell if I have the <br class=3D"">right trunnion and =
if it's on the right way?<br class=3D""></blockquote><br class=3D"">If =
you look carefully, you should be able to see that the round vertical =
part of the trunnion assembly (the brass bit where the<br =
class=3D"">vertical link screws in) is tilted slightly (3 degrees, which =
isn't much) and not perpendicular to the pin through the lower =
A-arms.<br class=3D"">Check out Fig 25 on page 4.115 in the workshop =
manual.<br class=3D"">&lt;<a =
href=3D"https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffN2FkZjI2NjktNWJiMy00Y=
WExLWIyNjctOTYzNmI3OTg2ODM0/view?usp=3Dsharing" =
class=3D"">https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffN2FkZjI2NjktNWJiMy=
00YWExLWIyNjctOTYzNmI3OTg2ODM0/view?usp=3Dsharing</a>&gt;<br class=3D"">It=
 may help to hold a small ruler up so you can see the axis of the pin =
better. &nbsp;If you can't see it with the VL in the way, you may<br =
class=3D"">have to remove it. &nbsp;The vertical part should tilt so the =
top is closer to the rear of the car.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Another=
 possibility I suppose is that the upper A-arms are installed wrong. =
&nbsp;The arm with the larger offset has to go on the front.<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">But since it was presumably working before, I =
think it much more likely that you have accident damage. &nbsp;Pages =
4.114 through 4.116 of<br class=3D"">the workshop manual give some =
dimensions to check, but you'll probably have to disassemble the =
suspension to make the measurements.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Don't =
forget to inspect the points where the suspension mounts to the frame, =
especially the lower pivots. &nbsp;When my TR3A got wrecked<br =
class=3D"">in 2005, I actually drove it home and only later discovered =
as I was stripping the carcass that the front pivot on the RH side =
was<br class=3D"">ripped loose from the frame. &nbsp;The one I bought in =
1975 had the same problem, and it took several months (and multiple =
visits to<br class=3D"">alignment shops) to figure that one out. =
&nbsp;Rather dangerous, as the car would pull violently to the left when =
you got on the brakes<br class=3D"">hard. &nbsp;I foolishly tried to =
drive it that way, until someone pulled out in front of me and I could =
not keep the car from jumping the<br class=3D"">curb into the oncoming =
lane. &nbsp;(Fortunately no one was coming the other way and I was able =
to drive off the curb.)<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">-- Randall =
&nbsp;<br class=3D""><br class=3D""></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div></body></html>=

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