Subject: [TR] removing a broken bolt

From: Brian <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 19:05:26 -0600

Here's a method I have had good success with removing broken bolts or 
rounded out Phillips screw heads. Cut a relatively deep slot across the 
surface of the bolt or screw. Exposed surfaces can be cut with a hack 
saw or the blade of a thin cutting blade on an angle grinder. For 
recessed surfaces, I've used a Dremel tool with a small tip to reach 
down the hole and cut the slot. This can be tricky, and may require 
trying different tips for various situations. Forntunately, there is a 
multitude of tips and cutting attachments made for these tools. Then use 
an appropriate sized flat head screwdriver to turn it out. if you can't 
turn it with a regular screwdriver, try one of the screwdriver tips that 
can be used with a ratchet.Use this method in conjunction with the other 
suggestions of wax, heating, cooling, etc.

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Keith Stewart <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 21:53:48 -0500

> On Nov 25, 2014, at 7:05 PM,<[email-masked]
>
> Then use
b& or, you can check with your FLAPS for an impact driver. Basically, a unit
like a chisel with a screwdriver tip that when struck with a hammer, turns the
tip and simultaneously delivers an impact to the head.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2014 11:32:04 -0800

>   While 
> the chain tensioner pedestal plate hole was threaded, the 
> pedestal hole for the timing cover was not.  Instead, there 
> was a bolt hole in the block behind it.

Apologies to all; Terry has it right.  I was thinking of the pivot for the tensioner; the cover support does thread into the block
through a hole in the plate.

D'oh!

-- Randall