Subject: Re: [TR] TR4

From: Darrell Walker <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 07:04:53 -0800

Hi Dave,

>From my experiences:

>
> 1. is it possible to replace the pistons and liners without pulling the
> engine?  bad idea anyway?

In theory I guess you could.  Pulling the engine would be easier, and let you
clean up the block properly.

>
> 2. is it better to pull the engine and tranny as a unit or easier to pull
just
> the engine?  seems like it would be a bear to get them lined up again.  the
> tranny shifts just fine, so I donbt need to pull it.  (Its and overdrive
> unit)

Ibve always pulled them both.  I think it would indeed be a major pain to
get the engine back on the tranny with it in the car.  I donbt know if the
overdrive shifts the equation at all, though.

>
> 3. I should remove the cross brace in front of the engine, right?  seems to
> really be in the way.

Yes, you will need to take it out.

-Darrell

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From: Tony Drews <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 09:09:00 -0600

It is possible to replace pistons and liners with the engine in the 
car, but barely.  It's not that hard to pull the engine.

It's better to pull the engine and tranny together, makes marrying 
them back up after the rebuild much easier.

You do want to remove the cross brace between the spring / shock 
towers to allow the engine to be pulled.  This page has a bit of a 
pictorial on engine / tranny removal:
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2008-9_Rebuild.htm

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 08:59 AM 11/11/2014, dave n wrote:
>couple of questions about an early (63) TR4 is smoking badly.  car sat for 25
>years or so before I got it.  had it running and driving, but you sure
>didnbt want to run it inside even a parking garage!
>
>2. is it better to pull the engine and tranny as a unit or easier to pull just
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From: David Porter <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 06:25:09 -0700

Once the head is off and the big ends of the rods are disconnected AND 
if the liners aren't rusted in place, then the pistons will come out 
with the liners. This whether it's in the car or on a stand. this 
answers 2 & 3 I guess..
dave
On 11/11/2014 7:59 AM, dave n wrote:
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

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From: "John Macartney" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 16:43:52 -0000

With due respect to all those who have contributed this far, why not be done
with it and use the opportunity to remove the engine and gearbox complete?
Even if you don't do anything to the box, what else has worn? If it's
smoking that badly, then a new set of piston rings and new valve guides
would be the cheap and cheerful route for a year or so. The head might be
the cheapest fix - but for how long? Having done probably more wet liner
four rebuilds than I've had hot dinners in an earlier life, it you're going
to fit new liners and pistons, why shouldn't one also find unacceptable
levels of wear on the cam lobes, cam followers, big and little end bearing
shells, oil seals, water pump and WHY? IMHO just fitting new pistons and
sleeves makes about as much sense as fitting a new clutch plate and not
bothering to replace the cover and thrust bearing at the same time.
Maybe I've got more money than sense (?) but the reported condition of this
old lump suggests that a full rebuild and checking a raft of other stuff
will save the time and inconvenience of pulling it apart again at a later
stage when something else goes pear-shaped.
Just the thoughts of an old ***t who worked on these cars at the factory
when they were being made so I'll now return to my hole in the ground.

Jonmac

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From: Mark J Bradakis <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 13:01:41 -0700

> 3. I should remove the cross brace in front of the engine, right?  seems to

When it comes time to remove the cross brace, put a jack under the center of the front frame
crossmember and lift the front off the ground. This will cause the car to droop a bit and
release and stress on the cross brace.

mjb.

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 13:07:37 -0700

I'll add my experience as I did the pistons and liners (with the engine *in
situ*) on my TR3A earlier this year.

I had the advantage of having the car on a lift so access was ideal -- but
no problem tapping out the old liners and installing the new.

Perhaps I was lucky but it was all pleasant and easy -- just a few extra
steps beyond a head gasket and big end bearings job.

I wrapped the crank journals in aluminum foil to keep them clean and
pounded out the liners using a 18" x 3/4" iron pipe with a iron cap on one
end and a brass cap on the other (as suggested by you-know-who).  Since
they had not moved in 55 years I was ready for a fight, but they tapped out
w/o any fuss or drama.

I chose this route as the only problem I was experiencing was a broken ring
and damaged #4 piston and liner -- everything else was fine.

You would do well to check out as much about your engine as you can before
deciding whether you want a true overhaul or just a farmer-fix.

Geo

On Tue, Nov 11, 2014 at 7:59 AM, dave n <[email-masked]> wrote:

> didnb t want to run it inside even a parking garage!
>
> tranny shifts just fine, so I donb t need to pull it.  (Its and overdrive
> unit)
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2014 22:26:47 +0000 (UTC)

Just to add to what others have said, like Geo I swapped out liners/pistons last spring with the engine in the car.  No lift, I jacked it up onto blocks high enough to crawl under and sling a BFH against an old piece of oak flooring to dislodge the liners. No problems.  Used electrical contact cleaner to spray off the journals and wiped well with microfiber.

To lift out the engine and tranny together, I don't know about TR4's.  But for my 3A the car had to be high enough off the ground for everything to clear coming out and going back in.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire