Subject: Re: [TR] Headlight Update

From: Chris Kantarjiev <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 11:11:56 -0700

On 10/15/2014 11:00 AM, [email-masked] wrote:
> Perhaps a TR4 is different, but on a TR2-3, each headlight gets its 
> own wire from the dimmer switch, meaning that section only carries 
> about 5 amps even with 60 watt bulbs. And I believe the wire from the 
> main switch to the dimmer switch is 28 strand, meaning it is rated to 
> carry 140% of the actual load with 60 watt bulbs.
It is, indeed. There's one wire that runs up the RH fender wiring bundle 
from the dimmer, and then gets split to cross the apron.

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Keith Stewart <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 15:16:16 -0400

On Oct 15, 2014, at 7:26 AM, [email-masked] wrote:

>
> Perhaps a TR4 is different, but on a TR2-3, each headlight gets its own
wire
> from the dimmer switch, meaning that section only carries about 5 amps even
> with 60 watt bulbs.  And I believe the wire from the main switch to the
> dimmer switch is 28 strand, meaning it is rated to carry 140% of the actual
> load with 60 watt bulbs.
>
> Randall
TR4 through TR6 has a single U/W and single U/R going up to the left front
valance area where a double barrel bullet connector provides a single U/W to
each high beam element and a single U/R to each low beam element. In the case
of the TR6, you can have 4 or five bullet connectors in the series. This
greatly adds to the resistance and drops the power to the light filament.
Using the existing switch to control a relay and a single wire from the relay
to provide power to the filament GREATLY improves the lighting.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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From: Anthony Rhodes <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 20:42:43 -0400

Yes , the regulator I designed is about to be introduced by CDRC in a month.

No, the field is not driven above the system voltage, just through a FET with
a fairly low RDS. The FET has some special stuff to get it to turn on at a
fairly low dynamo output

On my reg, I seem to get to a charge neutral output at night with headlights
on at maybe 1200 engine RPM

Ate you sure both your field coils are working properly.

On my test rig I don't have the ability to slow down the driving motor.  I
will have to check this out on my car to measure the exact RPM to get charge
neutral with EVERYTHING on

-Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 15, 2014, at 2:00 PM, [email-masked] wrote:

> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 07:12:37 -0700
> From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Headlight Update
> Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>> A modern electronic regulator that hold the output voltage right up to the
>> current limit of the dynamo WILL allow driving in stop and go traffic at
> night.
>
> Are they actually driving the field voltage above battery voltage?  Even
> with the regulator full on, my original 19 amp generator won't keep up at
> less than 1800-2000 engine rpm.
>
>> Classic Dynamo and Regulator Conversions in UK is introducing a new line
> of
>> electronic regulators at the big NEC show in November about a month from
>> now.
>
> Weren't you working on your own, some time back?
>
>> Also LED brake lights will help improve the energy budget when stopped.
>
> They'll definitely help, but perhaps not all that much.  The original
single
> brake light on my TR3 was rated 21 watts; my plan is to have 27 watts of
> LEDs (arranged in 3 lamps drawing .75 amps each).  Might be overkill, but I
> want to make certain they are visible even in full sunlight.
>
> Randall