Subject: [TR] More OD (electrical?) Woes

From: William Brewer <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 15:59:31 -0700

So I have the trans tunnel off of the TR3A. When you throw the OD switch,
nothing happens. I put a test light at the bullet connector to the solenoid
and get a light. My multimeter is dead and I am heading into town now to get a
9V battery to get it going again so I can measure voltage going to the
solenoid.
     I tried a battery charger on the solenoid on the workbench and
it seemed to actuate well.
     I tried the battery charger test on the
solenoid installed in the car and it didn't move.
     The circuit to the
solenoid has a fuse that blew somewhere in my testing. I changed out the 20
amp fuse. It worked with the old solenoid as installed for about 15 years.
   
 The car has had a dead battery several times in the last month. Coincidence?
Not sure what is going on there.
     My TRF repro OD switch is a little
finicky and I have had to wiggle it side to side to get the OD to engage in
the past. It is still that way.
     The trans and OD are topped off with oil.
     I tried the solenoid that came with the professionally rebuilt trans. It
worked for about 500 miles and then the OD didn't engage anymore. I tried the
solenoid that was in my last trans (that I changed out because it was
rattling). It was working when I took it out, but now it doesn't work in the
car.

      It is almost like the solenoid grounding path isn't complete. I
have a woven grounding strap from the engine front plate to the frame. That
should be good enough. Maybe I am not getting enough voltage to the solenoid
when installed in the car, although my battery test should have taken care of
that.

     Any ideas?

     Bill Brewer - Tehachapi

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 08:35:17 -0700

> and get a light.

Was that with the solenoid still connected?

> solenoid installed in the car and it didn't move.

Sounds like a classic case of the pull-in coil not working.  The holding coil will move the plunger, as long as it isn't connected
to anything.

> amp fuse. 

However, that sounds like the opposite problem; the solenoid wasn't able to move for some mechanical reason and the pull-in coil
blew the fuse.  Have you checked that it moves by hand when installed?

>  The car has had a dead battery several times in the last 

Most likely; but I suppose it could indicate a relay problem.  I'd tackle the OD problem first though, then check for leaks once
that it solved.

>      Any ideas?

Now that you've got your DMM going, check the voltage right at the solenoid, with the solenoid still connected.  Press on the
'adjustment' lever on the opposite side, to make sure the solenoid can move.  If it has 12v applied and doesn't move (but can move),
then the solenoid is bad even if it was good before.

Randall