Subject: [TR] Problems getting my TR4A running again

From: "Dave Connitt" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 11:06:12 -0400

Awhile back I think I had posted that I ended up having to remove the cylinder
head of my TR4A to have the bronze valve guides replaced as they were not
reamed enough to allow adequate clearance for the valves. The engine ran fine
all day as long as I didn't go over about 2,500 RPM for more than 2 minutes or
so. If I did, the engine would develope a misfire and there was a clicking
sound comming from the engine. If I pushed in the clutch and let the engine
idle it would run fine again.. As if that wasn't bad enough, the new camshaft
and lifters were ruined in the process of hitting the tight valves.
So, I had new cast iron valve guides installed by a different machine shop and
bought a new camshaft and new lifters from BPNW.
I carefully degreed the new camshaft which was a PIA to do with the engine
still in the car by the way. I put the rest of the engine together and it not
only won't start, but won't even "pop".
Here is what I have done so far;
1. I reviewed again the camshaft timing instructions (BP270 camshaft from
BPNW)
    a. Find TDC for cylinder 1 and index the degree wheel to "0 degrees"
    b. Turn the cranshaft to indicate 112 degrees ATDC.
    c. Install dial indicator on #1 intake valve and turn camshaft till lobe
is at max. lift
    d. Install timing chain.
    e. Rotate crankshaft through the 4 cycles and verify crankshaft and intake
lobe match up to specs. ( I did this a couple of times)
3. Adjusted the valves one more time and didn't find any that were too tight
or loose.
4. The slot on the distributor drive is pointing to the first pushrod tube at
TDC on # 1 compression stroke.
5. I used a timing light to make sure the No. 1 plug was firing just after
TDC.
6. Made sure plug wires are connected correctly (Firing Order 1,3,4, 2)
7. New spark plug wires
8. New plugs
9. There is fuel to the carbs.

About the only other thing I can think of is that somehow the intake manifold
is not tight up against the head and I will check that today. There is no gas
smell like the engine is flooded which I am suspicious of as I cranked if
trying to start it and I would have expected to smell gas.

Anybody have an other ideas??

Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** [email-masked] **

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From: Randall <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 17:24:15 +0000

---- Dave Connitt <[email-masked]> wrote: 
> TeriAnn,
> As I understand it, TDC is just TDC untill I attach the camshaft right?

That's right (tho I'm not TeriAnn).

My money is on the intake manifold not being seated or no fuel in the carbs; but a double-check of cam & ignition timing wouldn't hurt.  Remove the #1 plug, rocker cover and the distributor cap, then slowly turn the engine forward until the distributor tries to fire #1 (points start to open with rotor pointing at where #1 terminal should be.

Now look down the #1 plug hole to see the top of the piston.  It should be close enough to see, but if you can't tell for sure, stick a soda straw or similar down the hole.  You should be able to feel the top of the piston very close to the hole.  Then look at the valves.  Both valves for #1 should be loose and have the recommended lash.  Both valves for #4 should be open, by roughly the same amount.

If those conditions are met, then the cam and ignition timing are close enough for it to at least try to run.  A common mistake is to reassemble the front pulley wrong, which puts the TDC mark in the wrong place.

Randall