Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming

From: Frank Fisher <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 15:59:04 -0700

take the spark plugs out and crank the motor till you see pressure register on
your oil pressure gage.

Frank

On Thursday, July 24, 2014 3:40 PM, James
Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:

I read that you are supposed to
prime a new oil pump with Vaseline or other
substance.  I didn't prime the new
pump and it is installed with oil pan
buttoned up.  It is an uprated pump by
Steve Yott.  Do I need to pull the
pan and prime this thing??

Thanks in
advance,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4 x2

75 TR6

69 Land Rover Series
IIa

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 16:07:34 -0700

Hopefully not.

I've never resorted to packing the pump -- though I do spin the engine with
the plugs out and watch for oil pressure to build up.

Geo

On Thu, Jul 24, 2014 at 3:40 PM, James Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:

> I read that you are supposed to prime a new oil pump with Vaseline or other
> substance.  I didn't prime the new pump and it is installed with oil pan
> buttoned up.  It is an uprated pump by Steve Yott.  Do I need to pull the
> Thanks in advance,
> 69 Land Rover Series IIa
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: "J.C. Hassall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 19:14:43 -0400

Jim, you can spin the pump

Fat-thumbed from my iPhone

> On Jul 24, 2014, at 6:40 PM, "James Henningsen" <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: "J.C. Hassall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 19:20:48 -0400

Jim, you can spin the pump CCW using a distributor gear drive shaft with the
key removed.  Kinda diddly process, since aligning the diet gear afterwards
can be fiddly.  I did a YouTube video years ago, which is out there somewhere.
Spinning the engine without the plugs works too, but it'll take a while to see
pressure.

Contact me offline if you want more info.

Jim

---

From: Bud R <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 19:06:43 -0600

Jim,

Take one of those big (usually yellow of some wort) cheap screw drivers that
you won at a club raffle and bust the plastic off the shank. Use a big one
that matches the gear drive. Spin it upyou might feel the pull once it
primes. And get the distributor back on ASAP. It helps to practice that a few
times before the pressure is onpun intended. Then start it without the choke
on until the oil pressure comes up on the gage. Then choke to start.

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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---

From: "James Henningsen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 21:25:37 -0400

Thanks everyone for their comments! I even heard from Steve Yott himself who
stated the pump is submerged in a TR4.  Spin without the plugs until you get
pressure and you are fine.  No need to pack it.  Thanks again.  You all are
great!

Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

From: Bud R [mailto:[email-masked]] 
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2014 9:07 PM
To: James Henningsen
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming

Jim,

Take one of those big (usually yellow of some wort) cheap screw drivers that
you won at a club raffle and bust the plastic off the shank. Use a big one
that matches the gear drive. Spin it up.you might feel the pull once it
primes. And get the distributor back on ASAP. It helps to practice that a
few times before the pressure is on.pun intended. Then start it without the
choke on until the oil pressure comes up on the gage. Then choke to start.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)

 

 

 

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4 x2

75 TR6

69 Land Rover Series IIa

---

From: Ted Schumacher <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 11:31:12 -0400

Jim, you have received some very good advice, as usual, from the list.  
Professional engine builders, and the rebuild industry, all recommend 
pre-pressurizing the system either by means of an external oil tank that 
can be pressurized with air and connected to an oil galley or by 
externally driving the oil pump. It is not recmmended to use the "spin 
it with the sarter" method. Even if oil pump is primed and moving parts 
are coated, the oil has to travel through a lot of passages to get to 
all the components that need to be oiled.  If the oil doesn't get to 
where it is needed, plugged passage, leaking seal  or ???, this is not 
good.  We build  a lot of engines in the course of a year and they are 
never done by building up pressure with the starter.   Good luck. Ted

On 7/24/2014 6:40 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
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>

-- 
Ted Schumacher
[email-masked]
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022