Subject: Re: [TR] Drum Brake Questions

From: William Brewer <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 17:48:11 -0800 (PST)

So I just checked the brake pedal and it won't depress at all. It is like
the master cylinder won't budge. I cracked open the discharge line from the MC
and bled out a few drops. The brakes are still all locked and I can't push the
car.
     If the cylinders were leaking then it would be bleeding down, which
it is not. Maybe it is because the shoes are hot and swollen so there is
nothing for it to push against.

     The Renown has the same brakes as an
MGTF. To re-do the brakes with all new repro components is about $500 if you
do it all yourself. I am having the carb rebuilt and the front seat
reupholstered in leather. I have the engine out of the TR3 and am repainting a
door and fender on the TR6. My wife is not amused, not even at Christmas.

 -Bill

________________________________
 From: Randall <[email-masked]>
To: 'William Brewer' <[email-masked]>; 'Triumphs'
<[email-masked]> 
Sent: Wednesday, December 25, 2013 5:14 PM
Subject:
RE: [TR] Drum Brake Questions

>      I am trying to avoid taking on another
project. Can this brake
> problem be anything other than needing to put in new
brake 
> wheel cylinders and
> shoes? I keep backing off on the adjusters, but
that is not 
> working so far.

Sure sounds to me like the return valve in the
MC is not opening (or possibly the residual pressure valve).  Next time it
happens,
try loosening the fitting at the MC and let a few drops of fluid out
(onto a rag or something).  If the brakes release, then it's
clearly a MC
problem.

Could be as simple as adjusting the pedal linkage or stop; or
possibly a binding pedal pivot.

Randall

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

---

From: Jack Mc <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 22:02:09 -0500

If this car has old rubber lines, they can swell internally to the point that
they will cut off return flow of fluid - you can apply pressure and force
fluid thru the constriction, but the fluid will not return - leaving the
brakes locked. That would account for the reoccurrence after backing off the
adjustment - but it would be weird if it happened to all the lines at once -
one usually discovers this when it happens to one line resulting in the car
pulling hard to one side after braking.

Merry Christmas to all!
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 25, 2013, at 7:52 PM, William Brewer <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>     So, I have a 1952 Triumph Renown. 3 times now the 4 drum brakes have
all
> got hot and seized up while I was driving. It happens at about the 45
minute
> mark on an easy drive. I keep adjusting the shoes on the drum thinking that
> they are just out of adjustment after so little use for so long. I don't
see
> any brake fluid leaking from the brake cylinders that would have soaked the
> shoes.
>     I am trying to avoid taking on another project. Can this brake
> problem be anything other than needing to put in new brake wheel cylinders
and
> shoes? I keep backing off on the adjusters, but that is not working so far.
>
>
>   -Bill Brewer
>
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