Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels

From: Dave Murphy <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 23:27:45 -0500

James,Beware of chromed spokes; they are brittle and snap off at the
hub, thanks to "hydrogen embrittlement" which occurs during chroming. If you
want chromed wire wheels, make sure the spokes are NOT chromed!
The chrome Dayton wire wheels have stainless steel spokes which are not
chromed, whereas the chromed Dunlop wire wheels had (and probably still have)
chromed spokes.
My Austin-Healey 3000 came to me in 1999 with 4 chromed Dunlops each having
chromed spokes (and a painted spare). To date, after 14 years and about 25,000
miles 4 of the Dunlops have fractured some chromed spokes . The first wheel
failed 2 chromed spokes the first year and stupidly I thought this was a fluke
and had it rebuilt with chromed spokes. The next year that same wheel failed 5
chromed spokes and a second wheel broke 2 chromed spokes. I had both wheels
rebuilt with stainless steel spokes but this took 2 months and I bought one
new new chromed Dayton wheel with stainless steel spokes so I could drive the
car. Twelve years later one of the two remaining wheels with chromed spokes
failed 13 spokes on a single 1000 mile drive between eastern Quebec and
Michigan.
-Dave Murphy , Dearborn MI
'76 TR6  & '66 Austin Healey 3000.

> I am deciding on whether to put new chrome wires on my TR4 rebuild project.
> I want to go tubeless and wondered what the experiences of the list were
> from Dayton or Dunlop wheels. Also, do you need a specialty shop to mount
> the tires on these?  Since my 4 is an early one, I am also considering the
> wide white walls as on the original postcard photo and dread going to the
> local tire shop to have mounted.  I can just see a black streak on the
white
> walls from their machine.  Haven't had wires before so appreciate any
> feedback.  Just pulled the rear axle out and leaf springs for a redo.

** [email-masked] **

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From: Dave Murphy <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 00:29:47 -0500

Jeff,
I put a new black Sunfast canvas top on my TR6 this year.

I'd lived with the original vinyl top since I bought the car new in 1977. I
made the mistake of putting the top down one 60F winter day in 1978 and not
raising it back up until after supper when the temperature was back in the
thirties. I had to forcefully stretch the top to latch it to the windshield
header and ever since that day the top became too narrow to meet the velcro on
the side rails.

Even when new I never liked the appearance of that original vinyl top and I
almost never used it except in an emergency, so that in 2013 it still looked
about the same as it had in 1979.

The new top meets up at the windows is as it should and the velcro attaches to
the side rails. The zip out back window works well.

The new canvas material is a little thicker than the original vinyl material
and it is slightly bulkier to fold. The Sunfast canvas will pick up lint from
a cloth towel and leather flakes from an old chamois - but a sticky-backed
lint roller takes care of that.

The new Sunfast canvas top looks so much more elegant than did the original
vinyl top. Maybe it's because there are no reflective stripes. Or maybe it's
because its deeper matt black color contrasts more with the Java Green car!

I almost always leave the top up now. (I don't think I'd say that about a new
vinyl top.)

-Dave Murphy, Dearborn MI, ''76 TR6.

> I've decided this is the season to replace the convertible top on my 75
> TR6.  The last 38 years have about taken their toll, and I can no longer
> stretch it enough to fasten it.
>
> TRF has a 20% off sale going on right now...but there are three choices
> of material.  As little as I actually use the top, it won't get much
> exposure, but as I do want to be able to drive on days other than
> absolutely perfect and predictable, I need a top I can count on.
>
> Will the minimum Robbins top do?  (with stripes and zips, of course)
>
> Any other suggestions to consider?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.