Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine Heater Valve Pipe

From: "James Henningsen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 13:53:07 -0400

List:

I purchased the correct original heat valve pipe outlet that comes out of
the head as what was there from the previous owner was not original. This
heater valve screws into this fitting.  Problem is that you can't screw it
into the head as it hits against the rear head mounting stud and nut.  I
can't believe that you have to install this on the head before mounting to
the engine, but any thoughts out there.  The only idea I came up with is to
use a short extension pipe and then screw the orig fitting into that, but I
really want it to be correct.  Moss part number 635-260 under heating
section.

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala , FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

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From: Frank Fisher <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 13:13:41 -0700 (PDT)

moss says its same part as the TR3.
if that's so the side piece at 90 degrees
screws out
Frank

On Friday, October 25, 2013 11:24 AM, James Henningsen
<[email-masked]> wrote:
  
List:

I purchased the correct original heat
valve pipe outlet that comes out of
the head as what was there from the
previous owner was not original. This
heater valve screws into this fitting. 
Problem is that you can't screw it
into the head as it hits against the rear
head mounting stud and nut.  I
can't believe that you have to install this on
the head before mounting to
the engine, but any thoughts out there.  The only
idea I came up with is to
use a short extension pipe and then screw the orig
fitting into that, but I
really want it to be correct.  Moss part number
635-260 under heating
section.

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala , FL
62 TR4

75 TR6

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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From: Randall <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 22:54:07 +0000

> moss says its same part as the TR3.

Must be some mistake.  The TR4 uses a cable-operated heater valve, that sits on top of a 45 degree street ell that screws into the head.  Totally different setup than the TR3 with the handwheel and extension tube.

I'm not positive, but I think that if you remove the head nut & rocker cover, there will be enough room to install the elbow.  If that doesn't work, then your only alternatives are to remove the head; or use a plumbing nipple and regular (female-to-female) elbow.  Removing just the one nut should be safe; as long as you reinstall and torque to 102 ftlb before trying to start the engine.

Randall

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From: "James Henningsen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 21:15:18 -0400

Thanks.  It is different than the TR3 and uses a 45 degree elbow one piece
fitting.  I'll look tomorrow and see if there is clearance without the nut. I
think the stud is also in contact.  If not, then it is time for a little pipe
fitting as mentioned as removing the head seems a bit much for the sake of
pure originality.  Thanks, jim henningsen

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 6:54 PM
To: [email-masked]; James Henningsen
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Engine Heater Valve Pipe

> moss says its same part as the TR3.

Must be some mistake.  The TR4 uses a cable-operated heater valve, that sits
on top of a 45 degree street ell that screws into the head.  Totally different
setup than the TR3 with the handwheel and extension tube.

I'm not positive, but I think that if you remove the head nut & rocker cover,
there will be enough room to install the elbow.  If that doesn't work, then
your only alternatives are to remove the head; or use a plumbing nipple and
regular (female-to-female) elbow.  Removing just the one nut should be safe;
as long as you reinstall and torque to 102 ftlb before trying to start the
engine.

Randall