Subject: [TR] De-Rusting TR3 Block

From: William Brewer <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 08:19:18 -0700 (PDT)

I am getting ready to pull the engine on my TR3 to rebuild it after
snapping the crank. The first time I pulled the head (about 17 years ago...)
the #4 cylinder was completely blocked off by rust. Last time I rebuilt the
engine (about 11 years and 80,000  miles ago) it was pretty rusty inside the
water jacket area of the block and I de-rusted it pretty well and have used
No-Rosion since. I was thinking of rigging up an electrolytic rust removal
system using a battery charger, blocking off the bottom of the cylinder/piston
area to contain the water just in the block and totally de-rust the water
jacket area of the block. After that I thought about painting it with POR15
before putting new liners back in. It seems like the worst that could happen
would be that the POR15 might eventually flake off and get stuck in the
radiator. has anyone tried this?

     Has anyone ever tried painting the
non-mating surfaces of the wet-liners with hi-temp engine enamel or POR15 or
something to prevent them from rusting? The first set of wet-liners that I
pulled were terribly corroded from the DPO filling the cooling system with a
garden hose.
     TIA,

     -Bill in Tehachapi

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

---

From: Randall Zempel <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 11:42:01 -0700

Bill wrote: I was thinking of rigging up an electrolytic rust removal
system using a battery charger, blocking off the bottom of the
cylinder/piston
area to contain the water just in the block and totally de-rust the water
jacket area of the block.

Bill,
I've electrolytically de-rusted milling machine parts, and I don't expect
your method to work very well.  The electro field needs to be pretty direct
between anode and cathode, without any shielding in between.  I suspect the
various contours of the engine block will cause exactly that shielding,
leading to lots of areas with no appreciable de-scaling.

I recommend, instead, find a steel tub big enough to submerge the block.
Use a big propane burner ring to heat an alkali solution to near boiling,
and let that do your work.  Of course, it's probably easier and less
expensive to haul it to a professional shop to boil the block.... :-)

Randall Z

---

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 08:49:41 -0700

> Last time 
> I rebuilt the
> No-Rosion since. 

If it is full of rust again, then the No-Rosion isn't working.  You need to find something that actually works and stick with that.
Even with No-Rosion, you are still supposed to change the coolant every 5 years; and the new Prestone "any color" antifreeze claims
that it's anti-corrosion additives will last for 5 years anyway.  So far anyway, it seems to work for me.

Randall

---

From: William Brewer <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 10:00:13 -0700 (PDT)

Yeah, haven't got the engine out or head off yet. It might be fine. I was
wondering if there was a permanent solution so that in 30 years when I pull
the head off again it will still be pretty rust free inside.

     Bill in
Tehachapi

________________________________
 From: Randall
<[email-masked]>
To: 'William Brewer' <[email-masked]>; 'Triumphs'
<[email-masked]> 
Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2013 8:49 AM
Subject:
RE: [TR] De-Rusting TR3 Block

> engine
(about 11 years and 80,000  miles ago) it was pretty 
> rusty inside the
water jacket area of the block and I de-rusted it pretty well 
> and have used

If it is full of rust again, then the No-Rosion isn't
working.  You need to find something that actually works and stick with that.
Even with No-Rosion, you are still supposed to change the coolant every 5
years; and the new Prestone "any color" antifreeze claims
that it's
anti-corrosion additives will last for 5 years anyway.  So far anyway, it
seems to work for me.

Randall