Subject: [TR] TR3A REAR HUB REMOVAL

From: Thomas Geoghan <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 05:18:36 -0700 (PDT)

Seeking advice on removal of rear hub. Made a tool from splined wire wheel holder but still won't budge. Hate to try Hub buster for fear of damage to axel. Hub is damaged now by use of three pronged remover.
Kenny 01

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 13:37:34 +0000 (UTC)

Why are you removing the hub? 

Ed Woods

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 08:27:38 -0700

> Seeking advice on removal of rear hub. Made a tool from 
> splined wire wheel holder but still won't budge. Hate to try 
> Hub buster for fear of damage to axel. Hub is damaged now by 
> use of three pronged remover.

This homemade tool looks like it would work well, if you can find the
materials:
http://tinyurl.com/mu6mcpj

I tried several lesser setups (including a wire wheel adapter with added
reinforcements).  What finally worked for me was to machine some heavy
(approx 1" thick) press plates to fit snugly behind the hub, with reliefs
for the studs; pump up 15-20 tons of force in the press (until the frame
started to bend), and then start banging on the axle with a BFH.  They all
popped apart after 5 or 6 blows.  I put a flat washer and regular nut on the
end of the axle, to help protect the threads and also keep the nut from
mangling the hub when it slams into it.  Might be safer to machine a little
sleeve that would fit into the end of the hub, so some of the load goes
against the shoulder of the axle, but I didn't do that (yet).

The end of this article
http://tinyurl.com/k9h7bzm
Includes a drawing of the Churchill tool.  Although the article was written
for a TR6, the tool is the same as the TR3 except you may need to machine a
relief to fit over the flanges on the studs.

Lots easier to just ship the axles to Mark Macy (as Geo suggested), but I'm
stubborn that way.  Herman van den Akker once told me that he will do them
too, but that was a lot of years ago, I don't know if he still does it or
not.  He created his own hydraulic version of the factory tool (naturally).

-- Randall

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 19:32:27 +0000 (UTC)

List,

Most often, contamination of the rear brakes on a TR3 is from diff oil past
worn axle seals, isn't it? Unless there's proof that it's grease, not oil, I'd
only replace the hub seals only B if I was replacing the hub bearings. And
when's the last time you had a TR3 axle bearing fail? Oh, I'm sure someone out
there has lost a bearing, but it's a rare occurrence, even on a 50 year old
TR.

Good info on hub removal, however, it's already in the "favorites" list.

Don't mean to be contrary. Just my opinion.

Ed Woods

----- Original Message -----

From: "Geo Hahn" <[email-masked]>
To: "Thomas Geoghan" <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 8:40:43 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A REAR HUB REMOVAL

I haven't used his service but I think Macy's
Garage<http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/services.htm>does hub
separations.

Yes, a bother and time-consuming to ship them off for this but it can be a
difficult task w/o the experience and specialized equipment.

Geo

On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 5:18 AM, Thomas Geoghan <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Seeking advice on removal of rear hub. Made a tool from splined wire wheel
> holder but still won't budge. Hate to try Hub buster for fear of damage to
> axel. Hub is damaged now by use of three pronged remover.
> Kenny 01
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 16:12:41 -0700

> Most often, contamination of the rear brakes on a TR3 is from 
> diff oil past worn axle seals, isn't it?

Yes, I agree entirely.  And even when it is grease, IMO it is from adding
too much grease to the bearings.  Don't grease them so much, and the grease
won't find it's way past the seal.  (There is no vent, no where else for it
to go, so too much grease has to go past either the inner or outer seal.)

I've actually never had a rear wheel bearing fail, even though my last TR3A
had close to 300,000 miles on it when it got wrecked.  (Haven't heard back
from the guy who bought the rear axle, so don't know if he rebuilt it or
not.)

-- Randall