Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 - very stiff choke cable

From: "Kinderlehrer" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 10:34:15 -0700

Angelo, I had the same problem, get the jets loose enough to move freely and
they leak. First thing to do, however, is isolate the problem. I would
suggest disconnecting the cable and making sure that it moves easily when
not attached to the carbs. Routing around the battery box can cause kinks
that bind the cable. I seem to remember having to shorten the cable to get
it to work right, of course I have a TR3A so there may be some differences.
I also took the inner cable out and coated it with graphite which seemed to
help.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 7:30 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] TR2 - very stiff choke cable

Hello List:
I think this has been visited before, but having a real problem with the
chokes on my rebuilt SU's (H4). Can't get the cable to even budge the
chokes. Even pulled the knob off the cable while tugging on the cable. I
have rebuilt the carbs, polished and lightly lubed the jets, installed a new
cable but still no luck in getting the chokes to even budge. I can move the
chokes by hand, although they are stiff.
Someone suggested just using the front choke and disconnecting the choke
linkage to the rear carb. A practical solution? Car should still start and
get to a workable 'choke off' temp.
Any help with this one??
Thanks,
Angelo Graham

** [email-masked] **

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From: Chris Simo <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 21:10:01 -0400

Me too.  I ended up keeing them a bit loose and  letting them leak a bit
until the cork was soaked up and then tightened bit by bit until they
stopped leaking and the choke still worked.

I must admit - I still have the odd brown stain on the inner fender well
where gas drips....

I intend to try some viton orings instead of the cork.  I think Randall had
good luck with those on the H6.