Subject: Re: [TR] Rear hub studs

From: Bill Babbitt <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 19:36:05 -0400

I had the very same situation with my TR3a.
The studs are threaded in from the outside. If you look closely, the portion
of the stud that extends thru the hub plate is peened (actually looks smeared)
over. You'll need to very carefully grind that back with your Dremmel, keeping
the grit out of your bearings. Then you can screw two nuts on back-to-back and
unscrew the stud out the outboard side.

When I put the new studs in, I found that there was no way I could peen the
end over. Ultimately, I put down a series of light tack welds where I would
have liked to peen the  bolt over; taking great care to keep the heat down in
the process. Didn't want to soften the bolts. Ground smooth for a final
finish.

No issues since.

Bill Babbitt

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 15, 2013, at 6:47 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> Restoring a TR3 and a previous owner took a hacksaw to the rear studs -
> presumably to use wire wheels.  I want to go back to the regular studs -
> what is the best way to remove the old ones from the hub?  Can they be
> driven out or must they be turned?  Remove from the front or the rear?
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
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---

From: Darrell Walker <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 16:42:59 -0700

On Jul 15, 2013, at 4:36 PM, Bill Babbitt <[email-masked]> wrote:

> end over.

I wonder if one of the super strength Loctite products would be sufficient.
Or does the peening add mechanical strength?