Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch

From: Bob Labuz <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 14:49:23 -0400

Jonas,

IF the 71 is anything like the 72 then you will have to remove the dash 
in order to remove the switch. On the 72, the switch is secured to the 
steering with shear bolts. I had to dremel a grove in the bolts in order 
to get a screw driver to remove them. If you are industrious enough, you 
may just have to remove the speedo and tack. That might offer enough 
room, not sure. Once the switch portion of the switch is removed, the 
electrical portion just snaps off the back. You can then operate the 
electrical switch without a key or check continuity etc.

But before you do all that, have someone put a volt meter between the 
solenoid and the red/white wire at the starter and then attempt to start 
the engine. IF there is no voltage to the solenoid then either the 
switch is bad or a broken wire as you suspected. The battery ground on 
the 6 is attached in two places, the body and the engine. Make sure this 
is clean and intact.

Bob.

  On 07/03/2013 02:14 PM, Jonas Payne wrote:
> I have recently acquired a 71 TR6 that has been laid up for approximately 10
> years.
>
> Engine turns over by hand, so I'm ready to blip it with the starter to see
> if it builds oil pressure before firing it up.
>
> All electrical systems appear to be working properly, but when I turn the
> key to "position 3", I am not getting any voltage to the starter solenoid,
> so I suspect either a bad ignition switch or a broken "red and white wire".
> Red and white wire has no continuity to ground, so if it is broken, it's
> somewhere in the harness, as is isn't grounded between the ignition switch
> and the terminal.
>
> It would appear that removing the ignition switch is going to be a major
> undertaking unless I'm missing something.
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting
> 702-882-6711

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: John Macartney <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 20:52:38 +0100 (BST)

Yep! You can blame the German's
for that. 
They were the first (or among the first) to specify steering column
ignition/starter switches instead of key start, or key and button.
Originally, Deutschland specified only a German lock from WASO would be
acceptable and that had shear off bolt heads too - and the rest is history.
Everyone in Europe later did the same on all car makes for all markets so that
fifty years down the track, enthusiasts would have even more fun getting their
cars to start :) Ya can't beat forward planning!
 
Jonmac

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From: Jeff <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 15:56:56 -0400

> if it builds oil pressure before firing it up.

Before you go to all that other trouble, why not spin up the pump with a 
drill and a large screwdriver bit?

I think it spins clockwise...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

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From: Jeff <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 16:06:11 -0400

> I think it spins clockwise...

Of course, I meant counter-clockwise.  Or maybe widdershins?

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From: Chris Simo <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 17:53:25 -0400

I'm with Dave. Why don't you just Hotwire it?