Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results

From: "Jeremiah Curry" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 21:41:08 -0600 b73belpZG/RbdQIdSUhKIhTIilt9yY/maSvkfHUv16hSMqA7ZS Bws9w7fuPWpTH4Ykxgk64bYHhO6RxJVylHoN2TY839KjAe6wqu nh+WCHSCNMzIIrhnrcf51pQdf2l0vyyrmn4mLRTn8YVksfwTsr hjtckM+hzzwao4X3EX/UfPOfb4I1runyMo8Kz04eyxVIaJkhLa T66glGtmxx4JpXzYZR7qRH+v+Tlv4+M0zqMm3ZGDcugmYi2Zpb IcxMoOu74/6RhmLYsEK91QTXx4Yaw/aWw+c8GYT+IIsoqjhiBm OLJ2LAX6yFJceP+Nc0ZKqz4PIIY4KaEQ/vtx7qk9e

So for quite a while my 57 TR3 hasnbt run quite right.  It overheated and
had low oil pressure when I drove it from my old house to my new one; blew the
headgasket.  Well, I replaced the headgasked about a year back and it drives,
but I have a lot of fumes coming our the valve cover and it sounds like there
is a knock.  Today I got around to compression testing it and here are the
results:

1. (front) 70

2. 150

3. 160

4. 160

So I guess the next step is to drop the oil pan and take out that piston?

thanks,

Jeremiah

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 00:00:49 -0700

> The head was rebuilt about 1,000 miles ago with hardened 
> valve seats, new valves etc.

Likely it is fine, but I wouldn't assume anything.  This head had less than
20,000 on new valves & hardened exhaust seats:
http://tinyurl.com/m6ouoqs

>  There were cracks in the head 
> that were fixed at the same time.

Danger danger, Will Robinson!

Or maybe a better phrase is "Trust, but verify".

Be sure to check liner protrusion on both sides, even if you don't change
the liners.

-- Randall

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From: "Jeremiah Curry" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 08:21:29 -0600 osgLmrvhgd/H+VnInWX4P3xgGnhvd9/o1BYRQCozUugKSHTKuK YL34ZujWeYxyqiX0vZ0hDHE3sHBGNTuMzHZKHeulBVaS0gp3Fs pQc74gpfq8aNUH95jR8/xVKGWobtLOKZiIxs8NRZy6Vs1xWLuJ 4pcgfswOAJ8FQq+H/eRY6KuYRqSeteMqzWubViuPPe1tbrEiE0 c4+HAFu2knPn07cHAChPV56IGF3pS7D7V9GImjyQCXXDnEDQkq Fldvf61H+bo8/REMD6x4FCLHmTihqwUS7mcUUtN4PBqhR3Righ d2+jBStATzXZmLKKQi+VkgJAn/Oa0hlJKvhvVJ6Z+

Thanks everyone.  I put some oil in the cylinder and tested again and the 
pressure went up to 100 psi, so it looks like it is probably rings.  Should 
I replace all of them at the same time, even if the rest test fine?

Is there still value in doing a leak-down?  My local FLAPS doesn't have one 
of those to borrow.

I think I will replace bearings too while I am at it since I detect a knock. 
Once I am  over my head technically I might as well go all the way p
  There 
appear to be two sets of bearings, the con rod beargings and the main 
bearings, is one of these more likely to be the issue than the other?

Randall, I changed the headgasket probably 150 miles ago and the head at 
least looked fine.  The protrusion wasn't perfect, but good enough that the 
head gasket replacement seems to have worked without the "ring of fire"

Jeremiah

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 1:00 AM
Cc: 'Triumph Discussion'
Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results

-- Randall

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 10:00:36 -0700

> Should I replace all of them at the 
> same time, even if the rest test fine?

Tough call.  Most people will say to replace, but it kind of depends on your
future plans.  Will worn rings be the reason you tear it down next time?  If
so, new rings now may delay that day.  But if you'll never drive it that
far, then maybe it makes sense to keep the old rings.  It also depends on
what you find in #1.  If the piston or liner (cylinder wall) is damaged, it
may make more sense to replace the entire liner set.

> the way ??  There appear to be two sets of bearings, the con 
> rod beargings and the main bearings, is one of these more 
> likely to be the issue than the other?

Con rod bearings live a harder life; are more likely to be worn or damaged
IMO.  But IMO it would be foolish to not plan on replacing both anyway.
Also check the crank journals carefully and have them reground if necessary.
If one main bearing shows more wear than the others, have the crank & block
checked for straightness.  TR blocks aren't known for warping, but it does
sometimes happen.  If so, you may want to just look for another used motor,
rather than trying to save the block you have.

> Randall, I changed the headgasket probably 150 miles ago and 
> the head at least looked fine.

Good.  Hopefully it will still look that way.  But repairs to cast iron are
rarely as strong as the original (that wasn't strong enough).  You've gone
to a lot of expense and effort to get the engine apart; it makes sense (to
me) to check as much as possible, especially the areas that have been a
problem in the past.

-- Randall

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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 20:21:41 -0700

> > same time, even if the rest test fine?

When you pull #1 you'll get a good idea of what the others will probably
look like.

> Tough call.  Most people will say to replace, but it kind of depends on
> your future plans. 

Randall's right, you need to assess what you're driving habits are. That
should dictate the level of rebuild. My suggestion is to avoid Shipwrights
disease. Fix the problem and call it a day. These TRactors engines are
tough.

It was my understanding that you are NOT pulling the engine, correct? The
only options you really have then is to replace the connecting rod bearings.
My suggestion is to not even touch the mains unless your oil pressure also
sucks. And replacing the rear main bearing with the crank in place is a
bitch.

Since you'll be working "looking up" at the engine be careful to lube the
journals generously. Be careful of all the dirt and grime inside the engine.
Wear your crappiest clothes and eye protection. Wash your hands frequently.
Don't wear gloves as they collect dirt.

Good luck
Johnnie