Subject: Re: [TR] Pivot Pin removal

From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 07:54:16 -0700

Bill

My recollection is that it is the usual righthand threads.

I assume you've tried PBlaster or some penetrant?

In addition to turning it with a screwdriver using the slot in the head I
think there are also 2 flats on each side of that head that will take a
wrench (7/16"?).  A wrench (if you haven't tried that yet) will give you a
lot more torque (or whatever it is that moves bolts).

Geo

On Sat, Jun 8, 2013 at 7:29 AM, William Pugh <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Looking for insight into how to remove the brake pedal pivot pin from the
> brake master cylinder. Old and rusted, but it just won't budge. Is there
> any
> chance it might be reversed screw threads?  I have tried it both ways, but
> can't get it to budge.
>
> Thanks for your time
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p  ;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> [email-masked]
>
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---

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 17:56:14 -0700

> chance it might be reversed screw threads?  

As I recall, you pretty much have to remove the complete pedal assembly from
the car first.  The process is covered in the workshop manual, page R15.
(written for Lockheed brakes, but I believe the pedals are the same even
though the MC & its bracket are completely different).  Then there are two
bolts that go into the pin, one from each side.  You have to remove both of
those, and take away the brackets that they go through, in order to expose
the ends of the pin.

ISTR I then reinstalled the bolts (to avoid damaging the pin any further)
and commenced pounding with a large brass drift & BFH.

-- Randall

---

From: William Pugh <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 09:48:10 -0700

Thanks George,

	There are indeed two flats (7/16), that allowed me to put enough torque on
the pin to break it free, after that it was easy to remove with a good
screwdriver (I snitched one from my gun tool set).  No further effort was
required and the old MC slid out the back easily.

Thanks for the help

> In addition to turning it with a screwdriver using the slot in the head I
think there are also 2 flats on each side of that head that will take a wrench
(7/16"?).  A wrench (if you haven't tried that yet) will give you a lot more
torque (or whatever it is that moves bolts).

any

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
[email-masked]