Subject: [TR] oil pan plug

From: Gary Nafziger <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 16:55:53 -0700 (PDT)

Newly overhauled tr-3.  Wrapped the oil pan plug with teflon tape and
tightened up to what felt solid.  It's been leading while just sitting over
winter.  Have a dinner plate size oil puddle at least.  I purchased the Moss
ball valve type spigot to install so I won't need to bother the threads in the
future.  I'd like to get a good tight seal on the valve.  Looking for
suggestions on what to use for a good oil blocking seal.  Just wrap with
thicker and thicker teflon tape?  Is there a plumbers putty/caulk that might
work.  If so does plumbers stuff work ok with the engine heat?
Just wondering
gary n.

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 18:51:34 -0700

> Newly overhauled tr-3. 

Early car with straight threads on the plug, or later with tapered?  Makes a
difference ...
Moss gives the change point as TS18901E, but of course someone may have
changed the pan at some point.  And everyone knows "They are all the same"
<g>

IF it is the tapered variety, and it is leaking like that, some careful
examination is in order as there may be a crack somewhere.  I'd also want to
use a tap to clean up the threads.  Ordinary plumbers "PTFE pipe paste" is
what I prefer to help tapered threads seal.  You might want to consider a
magnetic plug instead of the drain valve.

If you have the straight threads, I suspect the fiber washer is missing or
broken.  It should seal with no help, but a little Hylomar wouldn't hurt
anything.

If all else fails, your FLAPS should have a "repair" plug that will work.  I
ran with one of the expanding rubber plugs for many years, and other than
being a bit harder to remove for oil changes, it worked out fine.

-- Randall