Subject: Re: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing

From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 20:58:44 -0400

I certainly hope a spun bearing is not the problem either!

It's a new engine, probably no more than 1500 miles on it so far.  Runs
great with no noises (yet).  Not to say the rest of the car doesn't make
any noise as it a real rattle trap.

I'm beginning to think the speedometer needle problem now resides inside
the head of the speedometer.  Since I removed the clamp the cruise control
is working pretty much perfect.

I guess the same time I pull the oil pressure gauge I'll pull the
speedometer and check it out.

Thanks for the feedback.

Brad

On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 7:28 PM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:

> ---- Brad Kahler <[email-masked]> wrote:
> > The first is the oil pressure gauge which is the mechanical type.  The
> > readings seem to be accurate but the needle quivers or vibrates like
> crazy.
>
> I sincerely hope this is not the problem : I've seen that with an engine
> that had spun a bearing.
>
> > The second problem is the speedometer.  The needle fluctuates about 1 to
> 4
> > mph while driving. I'm certain it's the speedometer cable.  The cable is
> > brand new
>
> FWIW, my problem was caused by the odo & trip meter mechanisms binding,
> which put a periodic load on the cable, causing the new cable to wind up
> and unwind.  But it was bouncing a whole lot more than 1-4 mph.
>
> Randall
>
> ** [email-masked] **
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---

From: "Bob Maassel" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 21:54:43 -0400

You might check to see if the line between the engine and the gauge is full 
of oil or not. If you have even the slightest leak near the gauge the air 
will get displaced with oil and then the gauge will follow the pulses from 
the pump. It is the air compressing that dampens the movement.

Bob Maassel
59 TR3A TS39869L
[email-masked]

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Brad Kahler" <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 8:58 PM
To: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Cc: "Triumphs" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
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---

From: Brad Kahler <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 22:01:21 -0400

Bob, that interesting and makes sense.

If there is a leak it's not an obvious one.  I wonder if there is a
procedure for bleeding the air out of the line without making a mess in the
cockpit.

Thanks,

Brad

On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 9:54 PM, Bob Maassel <[email-masked]> wrote:

> You might check to see if the line between the engine and the gauge is
> full of oil or not. If you have even the slightest leak near the gauge the
> air will get displaced with oil and then the gauge will follow the pulses
> from the pump. It is the air compressing that dampens the movement.
>
> Bob Maassel
> 59 TR3A TS39869L
> [email-masked]
>
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---

From: "Dave" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 22:14:59 -0500

car sat for some years.  when I pulled it onto the trailer, the front left 
was locked up.  when the winch pulled it up the trailer, it released it so 
that it turned, and then rolled off the trailer into my garage.

bled the brakes, pumped it and it locked.  brake pedal was rock hard; no 
movement.

replaced the front left hose which obviously means lots of brake fluid 
leaked out (yes, I had a tray and caught it), and I hit the disc brake with 
a mallet and it loosened it enough so that I could spin the wheel 
(grudgingly).

I have not rebled or refilled yet; I am also going to replace the front 
right hose.

my question - looks like probably the disc brake is the problem; can I take 
it off, lubricate it or something?  is there anything I can do short of 
replacing it?  or is that my best option?

thanks!

---

From: Malcolm <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 20:57:10 -0700

Dave, take off the caliper, and rebuild it.  (new rubbers, new pistons).
 You don't need to separate the halves, although I'm sure there are plenty
of reasons to do / not do that in the archives.

The rubber seals around the pistons are what stops the brake from locking
on.  There should be nominal drag when they are OK, but not enough to lock
the wheel.

On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 8:14 PM, Dave <[email-masked]> wrote:

> my question - looks like probably the disc brake is the problem; can I
> take it off, lubricate it or something?  is there anything I can do short
> of replacing it?  or is that my best option?
>
> thanks!
>
> options/triumphs/malcolm@**ipatch.ca<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]>

---

From: Dave Massey <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 09:04:36 -0400 (EDT)

You may be due for a caliper rebuild.  If the dust seals fail and moisture
gets into the piston area rust can build up causing the piston to fail to
retract.  If this is the case a rebuild kit and new pistons will fix things up
just fine.

Dave Massey

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave <[email-masked]>
To: triumphs <[email-masked]>
Sent: Fri, May 3, 2013 10:25 pm
Subject: [TR] TR3B disk brake

thanks!

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