Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?

From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 09:23:16 -0500

Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that is
currently under construction.  Right now, I have engine in frame and have
successfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the float
bowls.  Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the tank
will someday be located. 
 
To that end, I was wondering that the collective wisdom is on the location
of an electric FP?
1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tank
seems good too, if a bit out of the way.
2. Frame or Body mounting?
3. Firewall or inner fender?
4. Mount in former mechanical FP location?
5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the old
mechanical FP for authenticity?
6. Any other tips on usage or connections?
 
Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 08:52:22 -0700

> Whatever you do, be sure to shock mount the pump to keep the 
> vibration from being amplified by the body or frame where it 
> is mounted.  They are loud enough without helping it along.

Ditto !  I actually used a double shock mount, with rubber between the pump
and a new mounting plate, plus rubber between the plate and the original
mounting location (on a Stag).  And I could still hear the pump from the
driver's seat.

-- Randall

---

From: Chris Simo <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 14:10:36 -0400

I used the facet fuel pump and mounted it via rubber shock mounts to the
fuel pump blanking plate on the side of the engine - The hole spacing
matched the pump mount spacing almost exactly.

I bought  some MG exhaust system mounts (with rubber isolators) as I
figured they would hold up to the heat from the engine.  I'm happy with it
and the location made it pretty easy to plumb and wire up.   I went to the
junkyard and got a few ford taurus inerita switches (left side of the trunk
under the cardboard).   Since these were originally located inside the car
- I bought some TR3  starter solenoid button rubber covers and used that to
cover the top of the inertial switch to keep rain and crud out.. i also
painted some of the black rubber electrical insulation stuff along the
seams for extra protection. So far no issues.

On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:

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---

From: Alan Myers <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 16:12:26 -0400 (EDT)

Hi Bill,

It's on a TR4 but should be able to do the same on TR3B, if you wish... I
mounted a Facet on the inboard side of the LH rear shock bracket.

Photo here:
http://www.triumphowners.com/collection.cgi?task=PHOTO&photocategoryID=800&se
ctionID=111032 (2nd image).

Previously I've had electric pumps mounted on body panels and they ARE noisy,
even with proper rubber mounting!

Putting it on the frame (rubber mounted, too) isolates it a bit better. It's
also pretty well hidden behind the shock bracket, plus tucked up where it's
pretty unlikely to get hit by anything thrown up from the road.

This location is also below the tank, which will give the best results. I
rigged it so two hoses from the tank feed a large Fram HPG-1 filter, which in
turn feeds the pump.  I used stainless braided lines throughout, eliminating
all the plain rubber fuel hoses and piping. But you could just as easily keep
those original if you prefer.

I just blanked off the stock pump location, but I've seen people modify the
original to keep it in place, used the Facet to "push" fuel through the
original pump. I don't know how they did that. Hopefully someone else can
advise.

You might want to add a hidden switch to the power circuit.... It's a cheap
form of theft protection.

You also may need a pressure regulator, depending upon the pressure from the
Facet and the carb setup you use.

Watch out for the exhaust when locating the pump and filter, and routing the
hoses. Just as a precaution, on my car I've wrapped the exhaust pipe nearest
the filter and pump, with header wrap. It's a stainless exhaust sys, so I can
get away with that. Might not be a good idea to wrap a mild steel exhaust
pipe.

Cheers!

Alan Myers
[email-masked]
San Jose, Calif.
TR4 CT17602L
http://www.triumphowners.com/640
Triumphest 2009
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amfoto1/collections/72157626673107235/

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-request <[email-masked]>
To: triumphs <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tue, Apr 16, 2013 11:01 am
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 130
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 09:23:16 -0500
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that
iscurrently under construction.  Right now, I have engine in frame and
havesuccessfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the
floatbowls.  Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the
tankwill someday be located.  To that end, I was wondering that the collective
wisdom is on the locationof an electric FP?
1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tankseems
good too, if a bit out of the way.
2. Frame or Body mounting?
3. Firewall or inner fender?
4. Mount in former mechanical FP location?
5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the
oldmechanical FP for authenticity?
6. Any other tips on usage or connections?

 Thanks,Bill  Bill Beecher
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sitthere"
Will Rodgers

------------------------------

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From: davehogye <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 19:19:29 +0000 (UTC)

I have a Holley fuel pump in my TR3 vintage race car and the thing buzzes and vibrates obnoxiously loud. Even with standoff rubber isolation mounts. I know that the Carter pumps are loud too. I'm going to switch to a Facet cylindrical type pump as soon possible. I've been told that they are very quiet. 

Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Curry" <[email-masked]> 
To: [email-masked], [email-masked] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 8:19:19 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? 

Whatever you do, be sure to shock mount the pump to keep the vibration from 
being amplified by the body or frame where it is mounted. They are loud 
enough without helping it along. 

Joe 

-----Original Message----- 
From: [email-masked] 
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of [email-masked] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 7:23 AM 
To: [email-masked] 
Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? 

Thanks, 
Bill 

Bill Beecher 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 13:35:04 +0000 (UTC)

All,

I've had the same type of fuel pump on various TR3's and TR4's for over 50
years. Never had a failure, and, if I did, it's mounted right on the side of
the engine in plain view and can be reached with a 1/4" drive socket, not from
underneath the car, close to the gas tank, where I can't reach it, and can
only look at it while waiting for the recovery vehicle . It's very quiet and
does not vibrate; at least I cannot hear it above the normal engine and
exhaust noises. It requires no wiring or fuses: has no wiring connections that
can corrode, get oil soaked, catch fire, B or fall off. It has a glass bowl in
which to view the presence or absence of fuel; a built-in filter; and a
priming lever. If properly installed, it doesn't leak. It does not present an
additional fire hazard, requiring an inertia switch B in case of an accident,
because itB ceases to pump fuel B when the engine stops. It was made by AC of
England.

Well, at least this series of email exchanges didn't call it an "upgrade"!

Ed Woods

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 08:45:14 -0700

> It has a glass bowl in which to view the 
> presence or absence of fuel; a built-in filter; 

You forgot to mention that the filter can be cleaned and reused
indefinitely, instead of needing to be replaced every year or two.
<g>

My luck hasn't been quite as good (or as long) as Ed's; but in almost 40
years of driving a series of more-or-less decrepit TRs, I don't recall ever
once having a trip interrupted by a fuel pump problem.  Only a small leak
now and again, like when I found that the original diaphragms don't stand up
to MTBE (and ethanol).

By way of contrast, I had only owned my Stag for a year or so, when the
electric fuel pump abruptly quit and would have stranded me if I didn't have
a spare along.  I also have fond memories of riding with a buddy in his MGA,
and thumping the electric fuel pump (through the convenient access panel
behind the seats) to keep us going down the road.

Randall