Subject: [TR] TR3 Windshield Frame

From: Dave Massey <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 15:32:01 -0500 (EST)

I have disassembled my TR3 windshile frame which included removing the Tenax
fastners.  I fou8nd that in addition to the two that were missing some more
were epoxied in.  I know there was a thread just the other week about this and
the concensus was to use the through-the-frame fasteners and this is a viable
solution but since I am about to take the parts to be chrome plated I have the
opportunity to fix this in a way that I can avoid that since these may run
afoul of the glass.

Has anyone repaired these holes suitable for retapping.  I think the frame is
made of brass.  If so then perhaps it is possible to build up a bead of solder
and tap that.  Remember that these will go to the plater so any subtle
cosmetic damage can be repaired.

Thanks in advance.

Dave Massey

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Randall <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 16:36:34 -0500

> Has anyone repaired these holes suitable for retapping. 

As it happens, I had a conversation with a local club member just yesterday about this.  What he told me was to start with a 1/4-28 steel bolt, which you drill (preferably in a lathe so the hole is on-center) and tap for the Tenax stud.  (10-32 I think, but please double check.)  He claims the hex part of the stud will cover the end of the bolt, making the repair invisible once the stud is installed.

I don't think Loctite would survive the chroming process, but you could probably stake the bolt in place and have them chrome right over it.

Personally, I don't care about the "exposed" head.  It is so nearly invisible that I had to look closely to find them on a car that used the "through the frame" fasteners originally.  Since they were original equipment on some cars, it seems unlikely that even a concours judge would mark you down for that.  But you would know better than I <g>

Randall

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From: Dave Massey <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 22:44:58 -0500 (EST)

That's a clever solution.  According to the Moss catalog these are 2BA thread
but that's not a problem since I have a set of British taps.  Now.

Thanks.

Dave Massey

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <[email-masked]>
To: triumphs <[email-masked]>; Dave Massey <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wed, Jan 2, 2013 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Windshield Frame

> Has anyone repaired these holes suitable for retapping.

As it happens, I had a conversation with a local club member just yesterday
about this.  What he told me was to start with a 1/4-28 steel bolt, which you
drill (preferably in a lathe so the hole is on-center) and tap for the Tenax
stud.  (10-32 I think, but please double check.)  He claims the hex part of
the
stud will cover the end of the bolt, making the repair invisible once the stud
is installed.

I don't think Loctite would survive the chroming process, but you could
probably
stake the bolt in place and have them chrome right over it.

Personally, I don't care about the "exposed" head.  It is so nearly invisible
that I had to look closely to find them on a car that used the "through the
frame" fasteners originally.  Since they were original equipment on some cars,
it seems unlikely that even a concours judge would mark you down for that.
But
you would know better than I <g>

Randall