Subject: [TR] Penetrating oils

From: "Skip Gurnee" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 16:04:08 -0800

Ibve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me!

BEST PENETRATING OILS ....

"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating
oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out torque"
on rusted nuts and bolts.

A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit
being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted"
bolt.

Average torque load to loosen nut:

No Oil used ........................ 516 foot pounds
WD-40 ..................... ........ 238 foot pounds
PB Blaster ......................... 214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ....................127 foot pounds
Kano Kroil ......................... 106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix.................. 53 foot pounds

The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid
and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial
product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally
good results.

Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.
ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a
50/50 mix.

ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 01:35:29 +0000 (UTC)

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jody Kerr" <[email-masked]>
> To: "Skip Gurnee" <[email-masked]>
> Cc: [email-masked]
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 6:50:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Penetrating oils
> We call it Weasel Pee!
> 
> Please note, if you do make some, put it in a glass container. It will
> eat anything else. 

Just what I want to use around painted areas of a car.  Pass.

> It also separates when sitting, so you'll need to
> shake it each time you want to use it.
> 
> Jody
> 
> On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 5:04 PM, Skip Gurnee <[email-masked]> wrote:
> > Ib ve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me!
> >

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From: Jody Kerr <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 18:45:15 -0700

I generally tend to use it most when tearing down. :)

-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 21:01:06 -0800

> "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on
> various penetrating oils.

That was actually a long time ago, unless they republished the article.

> Ibve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me!

Results may vary.  I've tried "weasel pee" several times, and it does not
work as well as either Kroil or PB Blaster for me.  But I don't use it on
"scientifically rusted" bolts; nor do I particularly care how much torque it
takes to turn the bolt as long as I can remove it without twisting it off.
There is still a baby food jar of it sitting on the shelf, but I reach for
PBB first.

Oh, one other thing, neither Kroil nor PBB seem to do very much at first.
You have to let them soak to penetrate, the longer the better.  In severe
cases (like the long pins that locate the rear springs to the frame on a
TR3), I'll let it soak for weeks (with occasional BFH taps to help the
penetration).  Since the weasel pee separates in a matter of minutes, I
can't imagine that soaking helps much with it.

PS, if anyone knows the actual issue of MW, would you pass it along to me?

-- Randall