Subject: Re: [TR] roll bars

From: "Bob" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 07:58:26 -0400 sfK4H9oCmQpznIeW0y8dDEjOjcdudSW5z7p4FT8ONmOw0MRzhC 5sdYr6U535RLBCzSbVf34QI0lfB9iOghsQGEuRWG6D3LhDvxL/ 11iwD1TIoMdgxToHBfAaSorDj0dz9lD/ZSjYp/CyERbdou+qCF xCJD9t5R27e4zFJ59EtEhTysJ7nG2XVl9GsRV75WiDVjghnSlE DJXoqjZ+ahBP/jhzRX/ZpEO1EQp5hxOF/UZK59I7eZ7pJQHJ4R FCR28JJWAnnbVCU14YIGQipNWwVIarlRs4OoxFK9kJrC38oqed E6qAngbZPBLyFCM9eZ76IOjqIUE42u5iubCbZRYcz

Francois came up with this double hoop roll bar 
(https://sites.google.com/site/faucherf/rollbar) that he sells the plans for 
in pdf & cad format. This is a decorative bar but you may be able to adapt 
it to a functional bar by re-using the dimensions.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Tim Gaines
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 12:23 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] roll bars

I've decided that I have been pushing my luck driving my TR6 without a roll
bar.  From what I have read on archived forums, there really is very little
added safety from roll bars that aren't bolted or welded to the frame.  One 
of
my Miata friends tells me that his Hard Dog bar is just that, but Hard Dog
doesn't make one for the TR6, and I'm not finding any other one that I can
afford.  I like the "looks" of the Boss Frog bar; it looks pretty sturdy 
with
a single loop spanning both seats with bracing that provides four mounting
feet and two additional diagonal braces.  It looks just like the one Moss
sells.  Trouble is, the feet simply bolt through the floor panel to 
heavy-duty
back plates with no frame mounting.  I'm wondering if the back plates under
the main (front) feet, which are pretty close to a frame member, could
actually be connected to the frame by welding them to flanges.  I had a 
local
welding shop fabricate and weld support flanges for my differential mount
early on, and it doesn't seem that these back plates would be all that
different a job.  Maybe I could even work out a template for new back plates
that actually have a flange that could be welded to the frame.  So, my
question is, has anyone actually done something like this, or is it a hair
brained idea?  I'm also worried that mounting just the front two feet rather
than all four this way may not give enough strength.  What do you think?

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC
1974 TR6
1980 Spitfire

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---

From: Bob Labuz <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 08:01:36 -0400

Tim,

I have no opinion on roll bars, but I have heard it mentioned on this 
list and forums that classic insurance companies will not insure a car 
with a roll bar.

Again, I have no experience with roll bars so this may be BS.

But, it wouldn't hurt to check with your insurance underwriter first.

Bob

On 10/26/2012 12:23 AM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> added safety from roll bars that aren't bolted or welded to the frame.  One of
> afford.  I like the "looks" of the Boss Frog bar; it looks pretty sturdy with
> sells.  Trouble is, the feet simply bolt through the floor panel to heavy-duty
> actually be connected to the frame by welding them to flanges.  I had a local

---

From: "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 08:30:03 -0400

Both my TRs (a TR3 and a TR250) have roll bars and the insurance (American
Collectors) was unaffected

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 8:02 AM
To: Tim Gaines
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] roll bars

Tim,

I have no opinion on roll bars, but I have heard it mentioned on this list
and forums that classic insurance companies will not insure a car with a
roll bar.

Bob

On 10/26/2012 12:23 AM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> I've decided that I have been pushing my luck driving my TR6 without a 
> roll bar.  From what I have read on archived forums, there really is 
> very little added safety from roll bars that aren't bolted or welded 
> to the frame.  One of my Miata friends tells me that his Hard Dog bar 
> is just that, but Hard Dog doesn't make one for the TR6, and I'm not 
> finding any other one that I can afford.  I like the "looks" of the 
> Boss Frog bar; it looks pretty sturdy with a single loop spanning both 
> seats with bracing that provides four mounting feet and two additional 
> diagonal braces.  It looks just like the one Moss sells.  Trouble is, 
> the feet simply bolt through the floor panel to heavy-duty back plates 
> with no frame mounting.  I'm wondering if the back plates under the 
> main (front) feet, which are pretty close to a frame member, could 
> actually be connected to the frame by welding them to flanges.  I had 
> a local welding shop fabricate and weld support flanges for my 
> differential mount early on, and it doesn't seem that these back 
> plates would be all that different a job.  Maybe I could even work out 
> a template for new back plates that actually have a flange that could 
> be welded to the frame.  So, my question is, has anyone actually done 
> something like this, or is it a hair brained idea?  I'm also worried that
mounting just the front two feet rather than all four this way may not give
enough strength.  What do you think?

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: marty sukey <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 12:43:37 -0400

Depends on how far you want to go I guess.  I purchased a roll bar kit from
Jegs and installed it in my 6 a few years ago.  Two of the mounts go through
the parcel shelf and are welded to the frame. Two more protrude backward
through the rear panel in front of the gas tank and then through the floor of
the trunk and are welded to the frame there.  Gas tank has been replace with a
fuel cell in the trunk.  I had a pretend roll bar in place for years, after my
wife had the car up on two wheels at an autocross I decided to put in a more
robust unit.

Marty

---

From: "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 13:01:10 -0400

I got a roll bar for my TR250 from Racetorations in the UK.  I was worried
that, unlike my TR3, this one was not bolted to the frame.  Then my cousin
(who owns Racetorations) sent me a picture of a TR6 which had rolled in an
accident.  Roll bar saved the driver's life.  So I agree with Phil.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of [email-masked]
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 9:41 AM
To: Tim Gaines
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] roll bars

> to the frame.

Nonsense.  If your TR6 body is unrusted original or properly-repaired with
welded steel, you are fine.

> One of
> my Miata friends tells me that his Hard Dog bar is just that,

A Miata does not *have* a frame, and neither do all the Spridgets and MGBs
with roll bars.  I seem to remember that your Spitfire does not have a frame
at the locations where roll bars go.  The Miata body is generally about as
strong as a TR6 in this context.

> I'm wondering if the back plates
> under
> actually be connected to the frame by welding them to flanges.

Sure, but now you have the street disadvantage of a race car: no padding
between frame and body.  More vibration and noise.

> I had a
> local
> welding shop fabricate and weld support flanges for my differential 
> mount early on, and it doesn't seem that these back plates would be 
> all that different a job. Maybe I could even work out a template for 
> new back plates that actually have a flange that could be welded to 
> the frame. So, my question is, has anyone actually done something like 
> this, or is it a hair brained idea? I'm also worried that mounting 
> just the front two feet rather than all four this way may not give 

It's not a hare-brained idea, but it is way not necessary.  As I said, if
your body is in good shape, a body-mounted roll bar with proper backplates
is just as safe as your Miata buddy's. 

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
[email-masked]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org