Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Overheating

From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 22:52:53 -0400 (EDT)

Hi Dennis; I had exactly the same problem and decided to sort everything in 
 one fell swoop. 
 
I had the radiator recored with a thicker core and no starter handle hole.  
I only did this because I had fitted a gear-reduction starter, which is far 
more  reliable than the bomb starter I had before. I then added the 
upgraded water  pump from The Roadster Factory which, in my opinion, is a fabulous 
piece of kit.  I also added the TR6 cooling fan conversion, as I didn't want 
an electric fan  (but beware it requires a TR6 fan from an era of TR6 where 
the fan is  slightly different and no longer available. I found a used one 
from a used  British car specialist in PA. The car now runs beautifully 
cool, even in hot 30+  degree celsius temperatures. If you have any other 
questions, let me know.
 
Tim

In a message dated 01/10/2012 8:50:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[email-masked] writes:

All,
Just to got home from Triumphest.  Had a great  time.  Now for the question:
For the first time in 12 years my TR3A  overheated on a couple of the grades
going south out of Las Vegas.  I  finally had to stop in Hesperia for an 
hour
to let things cool down.   Yes, it was hot, and I was pushing pretty hard,
but it's never been a  problem before.  I'm imagining that the radiator must
be getting  crudded up.  It's an original radiator, still with the crank
hole, and  was rodded about 10 years ago.   I'm thinking it's finally time  
to
replace it.  My choices are: 1) getting the original re-rodded, 2)  having a
local radiator shop install a modern core, or 3) buying a new  aluminum
radiator from one of the big three.  Keeping the crank hole  is not 
important
for me; the only use I have had for it was to use the  crank when adjusting
the valves (for that it's pretty handy).  I have  no experience, but have
been told by more than one person that the repro's  from the usual suspects
are not, um, exactly great.  Is that  true?
I know we've already had the copper vs aluminum debate (once or  twice), so
I'm not trying to start that discussion here - I'm looking for  "been there,
done that" stories.  I need some help making up my mind  which way to go.
Thanks, Dennis

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---

From: "D&B Lambert" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 14:22:06 -0700

Thank you to all who responded to my TR3A overheating question of a couple
of weeks ago.  FWIW, here is what happened.

After calling around a bit, I took my radiator down to a local shop.  The
guy took some time explaining to me about the different types of cores,
cooling tube arrangements, etc.  He suggested that we just "boil out" the
rad and see if/how much flow improved.  He didn't recommend "rodding"
because he felt that it would just stress the tubes and possibly cause leaks
with a radiator this old.  The cost for boiling out was $60 vs $480 for a
new "high efficiency" re-core.  I chose the cheaper route.  I'll see if I
get any cooling improvement when it's back in the car and running in the
heat, and at prolonged idle.  If not, it's a re-core before next year's
heat.  The "boil-out" did result in noticeably improved flow, so I'm
cautiously optimistic.  We'll see.

Thanks again, Dennis

I'm imagining that the radiator must be getting crudded up.  It's an
original radiator, still with the crank hole, and was rodded about 10 years
ago.   I'm thinking it's finally time to
replace it.  My choices are: 1) getting the original re-rodded, 2) having a
local radiator shop install a modern core, or 3) buying a new aluminum
radiator from one of the big three.  Keeping the crank hole is not important
for me; the only use I have had for it was to use the crank when adjusting
the valves (for that it's pretty handy).