Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid

From: "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 13:00:52 -0400

I am in the middle of a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
stanchions and windscreen frame re-chromed.  Went to install the nine small
tenax fasteners and realized that a previous owner had drilled out two of
the holes.  My fault entirely - I should of course have checked before
paying  all that money for the chroming.  I guess I could go for a larger
tenax and then match the soft-top - otherwise I am at a loss to think what
to do.  Any suggestions out there?

Andrew Uprichard
TR collection getting out of hand - just bought two more candidates......

** [email-masked] **

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From: "Carl-TR" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 13:11:36 -0400

Could you use some sort of 'super glue' or 'jb weld' in the hole - the
fastener would be installed for the duration - but that may be ok.

Carl

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 1:01 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid

Andrew Uprichard

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From: Bob Labuz <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 13:20:09 -0400

Andrew,

I had the outside driver side hole get stripped so I just glued in the 
male with JB weld. 4 years later it is holding fast.

Bob
On 10/18/2012 01:00 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
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From: Randall <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 16:23:31 -0400

---- Andrew Uprichard <[email-masked]> wrote: 
> the holes. 

There is a special Tenax stud that was originally used only on aluminum frames.  It doesn't thread into the frame at all, instead it passes all the way through and has a slotted flathead "nut" that comes in from the other side.  Only noticeable if you look for it, and not objectionable then, IMO.  I haven't tried it yet, but I am planning to use one of them to 'repair' a stripped hole in my original windshield frame.

TRF had the studs reproduced.  I don't recall the PN offhand, but it's in the SPC.  When you go to drill the frame, use a fine stone to remove the rake at the tip of the drill (basically dull it a bit) so it doesn't dig into the soft brass under the chrome.  It might be wise to use a Dremel and a small abrasive burr to cut through the chrome layer, to avoid the possibility of peeling it off around the hole.

I will also be using a stop collar on the drill bit, to limit depth and hopefully keep it from hitting the glass, but I assume you won't have that problem.

Randall

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 21:20:48 +0000 (UTC)

I did this repair on one of mine.  My screw in "nut" was countersunk, so I just sight drilled a bevel with a bigger drill bit...very carefully.  The chrome screw "nut" blends in exactly as Randall says.  Do be careful of the glass, but I didn't have a problem.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

>There is a special Tenax stud that was originally used only on aluminum frames.  It doesn't thread into the frame at all, instead it passes all the way through and > has a slotted flathead "nut" that comes in from the other side.  Only noticeable if you look for it, and not objectionable then, IMO.  I haven't tried it yet, but >I am planning to use one of them to 'repair' a stripped hole in my original windshield frame.

---

From: Kinderlehrer <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 22:04:25 +0000 (UTC)

When faced with this problem, I used a nut insert - installs like a pop rivet.
B Available at Harbor Freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-riveters/45-piece-threaded-inser
t-riveter-kit-1210.html B 

I know some people don't like this approach because there is some risk I
suppose of the expansion of the insert hitting the glass, but it worked well
for me.

Bob

----- Original Message -----

From: "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 10:00:52 AM
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid

I am in the middle of a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
stanchions and windscreen frame re-chromed. B Went to install the nine small
tenax fasteners and realized that a previous owner had drilled out two of
the holes. B My fault entirely - I should of course have checked before
paying B all that money for the chroming. B I guess I could go for a larger
tenax and then match the soft-top - otherwise I am at a loss to think what
to do. B Any suggestions out there?

Andrew Uprichard

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From: George Richardson <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 21:45:17 -0400

One of my windscreen frames has holes drilled all the way through in two 
spots to all allow a hollow shaft insert with a slotted head to go 
through to the other side where the baby tenax threads in.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 10/18/2012 1:00 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
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From: Frank Fisher <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 07:47:26 -0700 (PDT)

a small stainless steel washer under every one would give a uniform look and
fix the 2 that are now under size.
Frank

From: Andrew Uprichard
<[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] 
Sent: Thursday,
October 18, 2012 10:00 AM
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid

I am in the middle of
a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
stanchions and windscreen frame
re-chromed.  Went to install the nine small
tenax fasteners and realized that
a previous owner had drilled out two of
the holes.  My fault entirely - I
should of course have checked before
paying  all that money for the chroming. 
I guess I could go for a larger
tenax and then match the soft-top - otherwise
I am at a loss to think what
to do.  Any suggestions out there?

Andrew
Uprichard
TR collection getting out of hand - just bought two more
candidates......

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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 13:18:10 -0400

Thanks as always to Randall.  Solves my problem for the one hole not obscured
by the windscreen glass.  The other hole, unfortunately, is.  Before I go with
the JB weld option, is there any way of drilling through glass without
cracking it?  The pop-rivet nut insert isn't going to work as the glass is too
close to the frame.

Before you ask, the glass can't be removed from the frame.  It's a long
story.....

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 4:24 PM
To: [email-masked]; Andrew Uprichard
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid, stupid

---- Andrew Uprichard <[email-masked]> wrote:
> stanchions and windscreen frame re-chromed.  Went to install the nine
> small tenax fasteners and realized that a previous owner had drilled
> out two of the holes.

There is a special Tenax stud that was originally used only on aluminum
frames.  It doesn't thread into the frame at all, instead it passes all the
way through and has a slotted flathead "nut" that comes in from the other
side.  Only noticeable if you look for it, and not objectionable then, IMO.  I
haven't tried it yet, but I am planning to use one of them to 'repair' a
stripped hole in my original windshield frame.

TRF had the studs reproduced.  I don't recall the PN offhand, but it's in the
SPC.  When you go to drill the frame, use a fine stone to remove the rake at
the tip of the drill (basically dull it a bit) so it doesn't dig into the soft
brass under the chrome.  It might be wise to use a Dremel and a small abrasive
burr to cut through the chrome layer, to avoid the possibility of peeling it
off around the hole.

I will also be using a stop collar on the drill bit, to limit depth and
hopefully keep it from hitting the glass, but I assume you won't have that
problem.

Randall

---

From: Bud Rolofson <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 11:41:43 -0600

You could try a diamond encrusted bit. They are very pricey and no  
guarantees on not breaking the glass but that's the only way I've seen.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

On Oct 19, 2012, at 11:18 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:

>  is there any way of drilling through glass without
> cracking it?

---

From: Wbeech <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 12:44:31 -0500

No, do not try to drill the glass.

It will solve you problem in that you will have to remove the frame to replace
the windshield.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 19, 2012, at 12:18 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
wrote:

Thanks as always to Randall.  Solves my problem for the one hole not obscured
by the windscreen glass.  The other hole, unfortunately, is.  Before I go
with
the JB weld option, is there any way of drilling through glass without
cracking it?  The pop-rivet nut insert isn't going to work as the glass is
too
close to the frame.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 4:24 PM
To: [email-masked]; Andrew Uprichard
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid, stupid

side.  Only noticeable if you look for it, and not objectionable then, IMO.
I

TRF had the studs reproduced.  I don't recall the PN offhand, but it's in the
SPC.  When you go to drill the frame, use a fine stone to remove the rake at
the tip of the drill (basically dull it a bit) so it doesn't dig into the
soft
brass under the chrome.  It might be wise to use a Dremel and a small
abrasive
burr to cut through the chrome layer, to avoid the possibility of peeling it
off around the hole.

Randall

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From: Randall <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 15:10:11 -0400

> the JB weld option, is there any way of drilling through glass without

Yes, with care and patience.  Get one of those cheap miniature diamond burr sets from HF and grind away the glass.  Don't try to hurry it, you don't want the glass to get too hot (which can break it).  You can also spray a bit of water to help keep it cool.  If your Dremel has a speed adjustment, slow it down somewhat (again to reduce heat buildup).

But note that the "through hole" studs have a necked-down section, to help them clear the edge of the glass.  If the edge is only partially obscuring the hole, you might not have to grind.

Randall

---

From: "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 16:22:30 -0400

The through studs worked like a dream.  Very sweaty as I made my way through
the glass, but one would be hard pressed to distinguish the "through-hole"
studs from the original fasteners.  Randall comes through again.

And to stop him having to reply, I'll do it for him.

"Aw shucks - just tryin' to help.........."

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 3:10 PM
To: [email-masked]; Andrew Uprichard
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid, stupid

---- Andrew Uprichard <[email-masked]> wrote:
> Thanks as always to Randall.  Solves my problem for the one hole not
> obscured by the windscreen glass.  The other hole, unfortunately, is.
> Before I go with the JB weld option, is there any way of drilling
> through glass without cracking it?

Yes, with care and patience.  Get one of those cheap miniature diamond burr
sets from HF and grind away the glass.  Don't try to hurry it, you don't want
the glass to get too hot (which can break it).  You can also spray a bit of
water to help keep it cool.  If your Dremel has a speed adjustment, slow it
down somewhat (again to reduce heat buildup).

But note that the "through hole" studs have a necked-down section, to help
them clear the edge of the glass.  If the edge is only partially obscuring the
hole, you might not have to grind.

Randall