Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust bracket

From: "Andrew Uprichard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 15:16:22 -0400

List:

Does anyone know where I can source the 2 rubber mounts for the exhaust
bracket that straddles the center of the frame?  This bracket effectively
braces the exhaust and has rubber mounts on either end.  I can't find any.
Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

** [email-masked] **

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From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 14:39:01 -0500

Andrew-

Part was originally 42243, superceded as GEX7329 - same as grommet for a TR4A
radiator stay.  Roadster factory shows it in their database, Moss has it as
part number 680-640.

Regards
Randy

> From: [email-masked]
> To: [email-masked]
> Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 15:16:22 -0400
> Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust bracket
>
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From: "Wbeech" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 14:45:19 -0500

Looks like p/n 42243, $2.92 at TRF.  They also sell the complete bracket if
yours is suspect.
NFI,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 2:16 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust bracket

List:

Andrew Uprichard

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:50:40 +0000 (UTC)

Dear me.

I've received my rubber door seals and clips, including a length of seal covered with red material to match my interior.

I do not, however, have a clue how to install.

Anyone have an idea where an instructional video or solid prose instructions might be had?

Thank you all.

Terry Smith, 1959 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:55:56 +0000 (UTC)

By the way, I do hate to put this in writing, yes, indeed, but...ah, well, you see...uhm...Randall was right.

The steering on my '59 TR3A had been sloppy, and for years I'd compensated by compromising between stiffness and play.

Randall mentioned that when he did a rebuild of his box, he was amazed at the difference and said "I should have done it sooner."

Steering is now much easier and yet no slop in the wheel at all.  Moss carries the worm gear for the end of the steering shaft.  It's splined and peened over, but an easy installation by my machine shop, or for those of you better than I at that kind of thing.  Moss also carries the peg, which was another machine shop installation.  Would have waited til winter, but I wound up with the apron off for something else, so took an extra week to get this monkey off my back.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3a
New Hampshire

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:59:24 +0000 (UTC)

One last thing.  I'd lived with this annoyance for the past 10 years, since I'd restored the car...a rattle from the front that I just couldn't locate.  

Recently I started the engine with the hood up and noticed the vibration on the bonnet duzies.  I'd thought that cranking down on them to close the bonnet would have dampered any rattle, but apparently not the case.  I put a rubber o-ring under the washer beneath the duzie and the rattle has disappeared.  The car is actually now purring quietly down the road.

I didn't think it was possible.  Probably shouldn't be and I'm tempting the Triumph gods....

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:02:32 +0000 (UTC)

So, I've been noticing that lately the TR3A is overheating.  No, not massively, but over a distance of 20 miles, it'll bump over 195 or 200.  It does have a new water pump and a good fan belt.  Timing is dead on.  Performance couldn't be better.

What sorts of symptons can a defective thermostat give?

Thank you all yet again.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: "Wbeech" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 17:27:24 -0500

Symptom of a defective thermostat is.... Drum roll... Overheating.  Good
thing is that they are cheap and easy to replace.  IF everything else
appears to be right, it is good place to start.
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of [email-masked]
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 5:03 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] One last question

So, I've been noticing that lately the TR3A is overheating.  No, not
massively, but over a distance of 20 miles, it'll bump over 195 or 200.  It
does have a new water pump and a good fan belt.  Timing is dead on.
Performance couldn't be better.

Thank you all yet again.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: "Wbeech" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 17:36:53 -0500

The fuzzy seal goes up the side of the "A" pillar and "B" pillar.  On the
"B" you have that stuff that looks like someone rolled up a brown paper bag
real tight and stuck it into that slotted gap, tack your fuzzy strip to that
and then the interior panel will cover it.  On the "A" pillar I just glued
it on that edge then when it got covered with the panel I made sure I caught
it with three screws, top, bottom & center.

The clips go into those holes along the bottom of the door and along the
bottom of the front scuttle, where it meets the door, then it wraps up under
the front dash rail capping, about three inches.  You clip the clip onto the
rubber then push/pull it through the hole.  I did mine while the door panel
was off and used a pair of 90 degree needle-nosed pliers to grab it and pull
it on through the hole and lock into place.

Picture available upon request.

Hope this helps,
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of [email-masked]
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 4:51 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door Seals

Dear me.

I've received my rubber door seals and clips, including a length of seal
covered with red material to match my interior.

Anyone have an idea where an instructional video or solid prose instructions
might be had?

Thank you all.

Terry Smith, 1959 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: Bob Labuz <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 18:38:27 -0400

Terry,

The best thing I ever did for my 3s was to install air deflectors on the 
sides of the apron to channel all air entering from behind the grill 
directly to the radiator. I think TRF sells a cardboard replica but I 
just made my own out of some thick plastic I had around. I just cut 
accordingly and screwed them to the apron sides with machine screws. I 
never have overheating unless stuck in bumper to bumper traffic when the 
outside temp. is > than 85 or so. When driving down the road temp never 
gets much above 180 even on hot days.

Now if you already have installed deflectors and you suspect your 
thermostat, it is easy to check by removing it and checking it out on 
top of the stove in a pan of water. Bring up the water to the 
temperature of the thermostat and you should see the thermostat start to 
open as the temperature approaches the rating of the thermostat. If it 
doesn't completely open at the rated temperature, time for a new 
thermostat.

Bob

On 09/15/2012 06:02 PM, [email-masked] wrote:
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:43:24 +0000 (UTC)

List,

For aB good place to start troubleshooting overheating issues:

Go to Moss Motors web site.
Click on TR2-4A
Click on cooling system
Click on radiators
"For TR2-4A cooling system information click 'here'."

Ed Woods

---

From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 17:25:07 -0700

> appears to be right, it is good place to start.
And here I didn't even know that anyone made correct thermostats for the 
TR engine.  I've been hording a collection of new Smiths bellows 
thermostats for nothing I guess.

TeriAnn

Counting down to Triumphest 2012.

---

From: Chris Simo <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:06:27 -0400

I just use chevy small block thermostats nowadays.
On Sep 15, 2012 8:29 PM, "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <[email-masked]> wrote:

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:35:04 -0700

> I just use chevy small block thermostats nowadays.

Ditto.  Even the factory gave up on those aneroid monstrosities.

-- Randall

---

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:48:23 -0700

> What sorts of symptons can a defective thermostat give?

Fairly easy test, without disassembling anything: Raise the hood, start the
engine from cold.  Let it idle until the temp gauge gets near where the
Tstat should open.  Feel the radiator upper tank and core, it should still
be noticeably colder than the thermostat housing.  (Be careful when you feel
the Tstat housing, it's hot while the radiator isn't.)  Continue to let it
idle until the upper tank suddenly gets quite hot, same as the Tstat
housing.  If the temp gauge reading is reasonably close to the Tstat rating,
then it is probably working fine.

Although not a 100% test, I've never seen a bad thermostat that would pass
it.

If the temperature creeps up over 20 miles, I tend to doubt that it is the
thermostat.  If the tstat is stuck closed, it will overheat much quicker
than that.

FWIW, I've had that exact symptom twice now.  Both times, after checking
everything else, it turned out to be a bad radiator.  Now with the new
radiator core and the electric fan, I never see 200F even in 100+ ambient
stop and go traffic.

-- Randall

---

From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 06:44:06 -0700

> Ditto.  Even the factory gave up on those aneroid monstrosities.
Are you trying to tell me that the factory stopped putting sleeved 
thermostats in the TR2-4A engine before the TR4A was discontinued???

The TR engine has 2 water paths. One to provide coolant to the head 
while the thermostat is closed and the engine is below operating 
temperature.  This path bypasses the radiator.  The other path is for an 
engine at operating temperature which channels virtually all the coolant 
through the radiator.  That sleeve on the thermostat acts as a valve 
switching between the 2 coolant pathways.

A thermostat without the sleeve leaves both pathways open when the 
engine is at operating temperature allowing coolant to take the path of 
least resistance and bypass the radiator.  What good is the radiator if 
a significant part of the coolant gets circulated through the engine 
without visiting the radiator?

And if you block off the bypass, coolant does not get circulated through 
the head during warm up causing localized boiling and thermal stress 
that often results in a cracked head.

It is my current understanding that Smiths sold new sleeved thermostats 
as replacements for at least 10-15 years after the TR3-4A engine was 
discontinued.

The Land Rover four cylinder engine used a sleeve thermostat as well 
until some time in the mid 1970s.  At that time the LR engineers 
redesigned the thermostat housing to reduce the opening for the bypass 
restricting the radiator bypass flow.  This forced almost all the 
coolant through the radiator when the thermostat is open but allows a 
small flow through the head while the thermostat is closed.

Are the sleeved thermostats " aneroid monstrosities" because you do not 
have one?  over the past 25+ years I've found that they work just fine 
and provide a long service life.

TeriAnn

---

From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 08:03:09 -0700

>> thermostats in the TR2-4A engine before the TR4A was discontinued???

That is my understanding.  I have seen TR4A thermostat housings with a
restriction in place to limit the bypass flow to accomodate a non-sleeved
thermostat.  I believe what I saw was original to the car in question (even
have photos here somewhere) but perhaps a TR4A owner knows for sure.

Geo

---

From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 08:07:19 -0700

Photos of a TR4A thermostat housing with what I think is a smaller,
restricting outlet...

TR4A Thermostat and
housing<https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=gmail&attid=0.1&thid=139ad43b6
db8f3e4&mt=application/pdf&url=https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui%3D2%26ik%
3D5b74da4199%26view%3Datt%26th%3D139ad43b6db8f3e4%26attid%3D0.1%26disp%3Dsafe
%26zw&sig=AHIEtbS9jJq18QjwZ9oW4Hzn6B_J5mA3PQ>

---

From: Chris Simo <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:20:32 -0400

I put a restrictor in the bypass hose - on My TR4 it's an old 1/4 drive
drive socket that fit iinsde the hose just perfectly. On the TR2 it's a
Delrin spacer drilled with 1/4 inch hole.

I put the last of my smiths thermostats in the TR2 during the rebirth last
winter - it was still new in the box - but it over heated and I found it
was full of water when I removed it. I had a chevy thermostat and stuck it
in and we are doing well.   Well....-I ran it without the front apron on in
100 degree weather - it got a bit north of 200 degrees but did not boil
over.  Apron back in place - much better.

As an aside - Without the apron on I can see it was very easy for air to
flow around the radiator vs through it.  -  My new to me TR6 was the same
way - The radiator duct was missing and it was getting hot - it works much
better with a duct in place.

---

From: "Mike Welch" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:08:48 -0600

I use an infrared thermometer, if the temp gauge says 200 and the IR 
thermometer says 180, I tend to believe the IR.
Last time I did this, was fighting red-lining temp gauge for a month, 
everything tested OK, replaced radiator, hoses, gauge, voltage regulator, 
flushed everything, no joy.  It was only after using the IR thermometer that 
I figured out it was the temp sending unit.

Mike Welch
'62 MkI, 2 '69 MkIII, '79 1500
Colorado Springs, CO, USA

---

From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 10:09:06 -0700

On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 8:38 AM, Don Hiscock <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Could you repost the link?  No worky....
>

Sorry, maybe only I can see that Google image (because it was an attachment
sent to me).  Here's a different place:

TR4A Tstat & Housing<http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/TR4ATstat.png>

Geo

---

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 10:31:58 -0700

> thermostats in the TR2-4A engine before the TR4A was discontinued???

Yes, I am.  And the later, non-sleeved thermostat was listed as a factory
supercession for the earlier sleeved thermostat.  They even changed the
illustration for the TR4A parts manual (although IIRC the thermostat change
came before that).

> What good is the radiator if 

How do you know it is "significant"?

All it takes is "enough" through the radiator.  Once the radiator tubes are
the same temperature as the water, then forcing more water through does not
help and may actually reduce cooling.

I have experimented several times now, on 3 different TR3/As with various
stages of cooling problems, and found absolutely no improvement in cooling
from blocking the bypass either partially or totally.  Many American cars
leave the bypass open all the time, as do the TR6, early Stags and, I
believe, early TR7 as well.  I don't know about the TR8 offhand, but being a
GM design I'll bet it leaves the bypass open as well.

Also worth noting that the TR4-4A thermostat housing has a smaller opening
for the bypass, providing more restriction.  But my experiments were done
with a TR3 housing.

I do have several NOS Smiths aneroid tstats on the shelf, as well as a TR4A
thermostat housing with the smaller passage.  Never seen the need to
install, so there they sit.  My bypass is open, and I have no cooling
problems even in 100F+ ambient, prolonged stop and go traffic.  (Not too
many weeks ago, it took me some 1.5 hours to drive 20 miles in rush hour and
the friend I was meeting told me that his dash thermometer said it was
110F.)  The cooling system will take the heat much better than the driver
can !

Granted, my cooling system is no longer exactly stock; I installed the
electric fan while fighting with overheating problems (which were later
discovered to caused by a bad radiator), and I added a recovery bottle from
a TR4 just because I was tired of worrying about whether I was losing
coolant or not.  The 10 psi cap was also added while fighting with the bad
radiator.  But the bypass did not seem to be the limiting factor then, and
it still doesn't now.

PS, I also didn't see any difference with 3 different designs of water pump.
There are some comparison photos at
http://goo.gl/5Ockf
I'm currently running a 4-vane aftermarket pump similar to the one shown in
the photos.  (The one shown started to leak about a year after those photos
were taken.)

-- Randall

---

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 10:39:35 -0700

Here is another comparison:
http://goo.gl/EPkvm

-- Randall

---

From: Don Hiscock <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 13:01:48 -0500

My TR3B had a "different" approach to bypass hose restriction when I
got it in 1981 -- a hose clamp on the outside of the bypass hose
squeezing it down from outside in.  Seemed to work at the time, but
probably not the best approach...

Here's what it looked like before I took it all apart a couple of years ago.
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-k5Gb3rT/0/XL/i-k5Gb3rT-XL.jpg

Don

---

From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:37:11 -0700

Thanks folks and keep the discussion going.  I had hoped that my 
contribution would get replies going over various ways to get around the 
lack of a skirted thermostat. Since I have spares I never looked into 
alternatives.  It looks like the factory solved it with the TR4A's or 
whenever they phased in the parts with restrictions.

So what else have people done?  Should we expand the discussion to 
include ways to get more cool coolant to the #4 cylinder?

TeriAnn

---

From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 12:09:09 -0700

On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 11:37 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <[email-masked]>wrote:

> So what else have people done?  Should we expand the discussion to include
> ways to get more cool coolant to the #4 cylinder?

I semi-blocked the bypass with a 3/4" copper cap w/ a 3/16" hole -- no idea
if it helps (have no problem with cooling) but doesn't seem to hurt in
about 30 years of use.

Blocked Bypass <http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bypasshose.JPG>

As for #4 -- last time I had the head off I rigged up a length of small
diameter brass tubing to my ShopVac and performed TR liposuction on the
coolant jacket, especially around number 4 where it sucked out what looked
for all the world like sand.

Like many of you, I've done so many things thru the years to improve
cooling I am unsure which help and which are just good luck charms.  The
net result cools well though (has to in Tucson) so I leave them all in
place.

Geo

---

From: Jeff <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 15:45:33 -0400

On 9/16/2012 1:08 PM, Mike Welch wrote:
> everything tested OK, replaced radiator, hoses, gauge, voltage 
> regulator, flushed everything, no joy.  It was only after using the IR 
> thermometer that I figured out it was the temp sending unit.

You can also stick a thermometer in the cold radiator (when the cap is 
not remotely mounted) and get a good idea by watching it as it warms up....

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 21:18:17 +0000 (UTC)

Some years ago on the List, advice was to put a 3/4th inch copper plumbing pipe end cap in the hose with a 3/8ths hole in the center.  Can't say whether it works or not, since I never did a control study.  But I can say that it doesn't "not" work.  

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Simo" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:20:32 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] One last question

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From: "Wbeech" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 09:02:57 -0500

Reading with interest all this about restricting the bypass hose.  What was
the purpose of this bypass and why didn't it work?
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of [email-masked]
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:18 PM
To: Chris Simo
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] One last question NOW Restrictor flow

Some years ago on the List, advice was to put a 3/4th inch copper plumbing
pipe end cap in the hose with a 3/8ths hole in the center.  Can't say
whether it works or not, since I never did a control study.  But I can say
that it doesn't "not" work.  

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Simo" <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:20:32 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] One last question

I put the last of my smiths thermostats in the TR2 during the rebirth last
winter - it was still new in the box - but it over heated and I found it was
full of water when I removed it. I had a chevy thermostat and stuck it
in and we are doing well.   Well....-I ran it without the front apron on in
100 degree weather - it got a bit north of 200 degrees but did not boil
over.  Apron back in place - much better.

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:12:52 -0700

> the purpose of this bypass and why didn't it work?

The bypass works just fine.  The idea (as I understand it) was to help the
engine warm-up quickly coolant was circulated through the head via that
bypass hose rather than simply sitting there waiting for the thermstat to
open.  Apart from the benefits to the engine of warming up sooner, it also
delivered cabin heat sooner if the heater valve was open.

When the original style thermostat at last opened the skirt in its design
would slip in front of the opening in the tstat housing that fed the hose,
effectively blocking that flow (no longer needed).

When using a 'modern' thermostat (no such skirt) some choose to partially
block that hose so it does not continue to allow some coolant to bypass the
radiator... the feeling being that returning hot coolant directly to the
head rather than sending (almost) all coolant thru the radiator would
reduce cooling overall.

Clearly there is not total agreement on whether this is necessary or even
wise.

Geo

---

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 09:50:05 -0700

> the purpose of this bypass and why didn't it work?

Just to amplify a bit on what Geo already said, the bypass is quite
important and I do not recommend that anyone run with it totally blocked;
unless you make other provisions for allowing coolant to move through the
cylinder head while the thermostat is closed.  

Cast iron is surprisingly brittle and does not like sudden temperature
changes.  With the thermostat closed and the bypass blocked, the part of the
head near the combustion chamber and valves will get heated to nearly
boiling before the water at the thermostat gets hot enough for the tstat to
open.  Then when it starts to open, it gets the extremely hot water from the
head and snaps full open, allowing the essentially room temperature water in
the bottom of the radiator to be forced into the block and head, suddenly
cooling the head.  The result can be a cracked head.

While experimenting with blocking the bypass (so I could assess the
difference in cooling), I also drilled a hole through the thermostat so it
could not fully block the flow, thereby avoiding the above scenario.  The
result is slower warm up, but that is not a significant issue where I live
(and I don't even have a heater).

-- Randall

---

From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 14:39:01 -0500

Andrew-

Regards
Randy

---

From: "Wbeech" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 14:45:19 -0500

Bill Beecher

-----Original Message-----

List:

Andrew Uprichard

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:50:40 +0000 (UTC)

Dear me.

Thank you all.

Terry Smith, 1959 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:55:56 +0000 (UTC)

Terry Smith, '59 TR3a
New Hampshire

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:59:24 +0000 (UTC)

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:02:32 +0000 (UTC)

Thank you all yet again.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: "Wbeech" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 17:27:24 -0500

-----Original Message-----

Thank you all yet again.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: "Wbeech" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 17:36:53 -0500

Hope this helps,
Bill

-----Original Message-----

Dear me.

Thank you all.

Terry Smith, 1959 TR3A
New Hampshire

---

From: Bob Labuz <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 18:38:27 -0400

Terry,

Bob

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:43:24 +0000 (UTC)

List,

Ed Woods

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From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 17:25:07 -0700

TeriAnn

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From: Chris Simo <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:06:27 -0400

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:35:04 -0700

-- Randall

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:48:23 -0700

-- Randall

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From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 06:44:06 -0700

TeriAnn

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 08:03:09 -0700

Geo

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 08:07:19 -0700

TR4A Thermostat and

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From: Chris Simo <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:20:32 -0400

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From: "Mike Welch" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:08:48 -0600

Mike Welch

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 10:09:06 -0700

Geo

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 10:31:58 -0700

-- Randall

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 10:39:35 -0700

-- Randall

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From: Don Hiscock <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 13:01:48 -0500

Don

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From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:37:11 -0700

TeriAnn

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 12:09:09 -0700

Geo

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From: Jeff <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 15:45:33 -0400

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 21:18:17 +0000 (UTC)

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From: "Wbeech" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 09:02:57 -0500

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:12:52 -0700

Geo

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 09:50:05 -0700

-- Randall