Subject: [TR] Webers on my TR4

From: "Lee&John Howard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:26:29 -0700

My Weber are acting up.  They were running fine and strong until:
I messed around and changed the fuel line to an older braided SS line for
appearances sake. Then, the carbs began to stumble and spit. They would
barely idle and would not accelerate. Changed back to new rubber fuel line
and changed the in line filter. No improvement.
Thinking the mechanical pump must be gone again, switched in an electric.
No improvement.
Checked the timing - basically OK, though hard to tell with the rpms moving
all over the place.
Changed the plugs ( was going to anyway.)
Reset the Webers to their initial settings.  No change.
Finally, remover the cover to the pump. Diaphragm looks OK. There was gas
on top but I assume that leaked through from the bowl as I broke the seal.

So what gives? Could the main jet be clogged? I'll go check that.

Any ideas? Could it still be electrical?

Many thanks

JohnH

** [email-masked] **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:51:39 -0700

You know you cold have saved yourself a whole lot of time, $$ and effort 
if you had put a fuel pressure gauge on it to verify you were getting 
between 2 & 3 lbs pressure at the carbs.

The brass plug by the fuel inlet covers the filter screen.  You could 
pull them to see if the filters got clogged. If the filters are missing 
or torn it would not hurt to pull the tops of the carbs and verify that 
a piece of crud has not lodged in the float valve keeping it from 
closing properly.  The built in filter is supposed to keep that from 
happening and jets from getting clogged.

   The big brass cover in the middle with the winged nut covers the main 
and idle jets.  You could look at the idle jets to see if one is clogged.

IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER: fuel system and electrical system problems mostly 
have the same symptoms.

Do a spark check to see if you have a strong blue spark.

A bad condenser can cause the idle to bounce around.

On 7/17/12 3:26 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: "Lee&John Howard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 16:55:41 -0700

Good ideas.
I never added the fuel pressure gauge because, well, it was working fine
without it! I have checked the filter screen and it was 95% clean.
Condenser is a god idea and might have gone coincidentally with my screwing
around with the fuel lines, I guess.
I will pull the jets, but don't see how anything could get by the fuel
inlet screens.
Incidentally, your Weber site is a regular reference for me. Thank you for
that.
John

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 3:51 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <[email-masked]>wrote:

> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 06:39:35 -0700

Any chance that your pulling on fuel lines might have broken the soft 
mount seal on the carb to intake manifold connection and you are getting 
an air leak  at the base of the carbs?

armchair diagnosis is a matter of WAGs.

On 7/17/12 4:55 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> Good ideas.
> I never added the fuel pressure gauge because, well, it was working 
> fine without it!
.
As long as everything works a inline fuel pressure gauge is pretty 
useless.  But the second you have a problem with the engine running it 
can tell you that your fuel system down stream of the carb is working 
OK, has a problem or maybe you should walk to the nearest gas station 
with an empty container.  A fuel gauge can be a big diagnosis time saver.

TeriAnn

---

From: "Lee&John Howard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 06:50:06 -0700

Now there's a horrible thought! I'll take a look; guess I can roughly test
by simply grasping the carbs and wiggling them about.

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 6:39 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <[email-masked]>wrote:

> mount seal on the carb to intake manifold connection and you are getting an
> air leak  at the base of the carbs?
>
>> without it!
> useless.  But the second you have a problem with the engine running it can
> tell you that your fuel system down stream of the carb is working OK, has a
> problem or maybe you should walk to the nearest gas station with an empty
> container.  A fuel gauge can be a big diagnosis time saver.
>
> TeriAnn

---

From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 07:09:34 -0700

On 7/18/12 6:50 AM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> Now there's a horrible thought! I'll take a look; guess I can roughly 
> test by simply grasping the carbs and wiggling them about.

A rough test would usually be spraying something non flammable on the 
seal area to see if the idle settles down while the liquid is blocking 
any gap. The soft mounts are supposed to allow slight movement of the carbs.

How old are your soft mounts?  The rubber seals can crack over time and 
repeated heatings.
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 6:39 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman 
> <[email-masked] <mailto:[email-masked]>> wrote:
>
>     Any chance that your pulling on fuel lines might have broken the
>     soft mount seal on the carb to intake manifold connection and you
>     are getting an air leak  at the base of the carbs?
>
>         I never added the fuel pressure gauge because, well, it was
>         working fine without it!
>
>     .
>     useless.  But the second you have a problem with the engine
>     running it can tell you that your fuel system down stream of the
>     carb is working OK, has a problem or maybe you should walk to the
>     nearest gas station with an empty container.  A fuel gauge can be
>     a big diagnosis time saver.
>
>     TeriAnn

---

From: "Lee&John Howard" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 12:02:56 -0700

Well, friends - it was the condenser! Thank you  TeriAnn.
Well at least I know now the pump is good, and the Webers good and clean.
And reacquainted myself with the jets etc.

Thanks for everyone's help.

John

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 7:09 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <[email-masked]>wrote:

> A rough test would usually be spraying something non flammable on the seal
> area to see if the idle settles down while the liquid is blocking any gap.
> The soft mounts are supposed to allow slight movement of the carbs.
>