Subject: Re: [TR] Silicon and Paint

From: Benjamin Zwissler <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 15:51:16 -0400

For what's its worth, my paint shop guy said clean up any silcon (Armor
All, DOT5, whatever) before you do any sanding.  He said sanding will push
the silicon into the paint, plastic, etc and then no amount of cleaning
will remove it (barring cleaning to bare metal).  He recommended Dawn
dishwashing detergent.  I did that but it still wasn't sheeting water like
I liked so I followed up with some water soluble parts degreaser from Sam's
Club, then I used Dawn after that again.  Worked great.  I was painting a
TR8 plastic dash that I know had been ArmorAll'd multiple times 'cuz I'd
done it.

Ben.....

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From: "Dave Connitt" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 21:50:32 -0400

I agree regarding using Dawn dishwashing soap to prep a car for paint. I had 
a problem with fisheye while painting my engine compartment. Not sure where 
it came from (the silicon), but it really screwed up the paint. I washed it 
with water and Dawn, rinsed really well and then sanded with 400 wet/dry to 
get down to a smooth finish. Then wiped it down with paint prep (wash 
on/wipe off method) with two lint free paper towels.Thankfully, that did the 
trick but what a pain..
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 12:19:30 +0000 (UTC)

Am conducting a little experiment.

Just finished engine rebuild on my TR3.  Tried to start it, discovered I was a tooth off with the ignition, fixed that, and then it started right up.  Ran smooth and strong with no leaks for 25 minutes before I shut it down.  Made some water pump noise for a few minutes, then that quieted right out.  Smokes more than I remember from last time, but I expect that will sort out as the rings set.

The experiment is, I added a few wads of magnets to the outside of the sump, near the magnetic drain plug, to see if it doesn't capture more metal shavings common with rebuilds.  I don't see why it wouldn't complement the already magnetic plug.

But it raised the question.  While I know the zinc in the Valvoline Racing Oil I'm running for break-in is not magnetic.  ...But...are there other elements in the oil that would be sucked from the chemical composition by a strong magnetic field?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 12:24:57 +0000 (UTC)

The book I'm using describes adjusting valves when the intake and exhaust are at the point of balance, at which moment you can set both valve lashes to .010.  

I hadn't noticed that before.  I had always set the valves on the exhaust when the intake was completely down, and vice versa.  

Question:  Does it make any difference?

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From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 08:56:58 -0400

In the big picture, you always want to adjust a valve when its lifter or
tappet is completely "off the cam". It's true that an exhaust valve would be
fully closed when the intake is fully open and vice-versa. Your system
should be fine. Alternatively, you will never have a problem if you adjust
valves for a given cylinder when it is at TDC - Compression. By using
distributor rotor position as a guide, you only have to turn the engine over
twice to adjust all valves in this manner. Some engine manufacturers, Deere
as an example, will tell you all of the valves that can be adjusted when #1
cylinder is at TDC - Compression and will then direct you to turn the
crankshaft one revolution and adjust all of the remaining valves. On small
air-cooled engines that may be equipped with a compression release device
via the exhaust valve, the manufacturers usually direct you to adjust the
valves when the piston is approximately 0.5" below and after TDC -
Compression. I'm not quite sure what the term "point-of-balance" refers to.
Depending on your automotive dialect, I suppose it could refer to what some
of us call "valve rock" at TDC - Exhaust or full clearance at TDC -
Compression.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of [email-masked]
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 8:25 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method

The book I'm using describes adjusting valves when the intake and exhaust
are at the point of balance, at which moment you can set both valve lashes
to .010.  

I hadn't noticed that before.  I had always set the valves on the exhaust
when the intake was completely down, and vice versa.  

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 06:49:59 -0700

Seems unlikely to me since iron & nickel are the only common elements I
know of that are attracted to the magnets.

I do modify those magnetic drain plugs commonly sold by breaking and
digging out the fairly lame magnet that comes in them and JBWelding a
rare-earth magnet in its place.

Geo

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:19 AM, <[email-masked]> wrote:

> ...While I know the zinc in the Valvoline Racing Oil I'm running for
> break-in is not magnetic.  ...But...are there other elements in the oil
> that would be sucked from the chemical composition by a strong magnetic
> field?

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 06:56:38 -0700

I just use the chart in the Haynes manual (ignoring the typo) which is
essentially the 'rule of 9' (i.e.looking at the 8 valves you note which
ones are depressed and adjust the ones that are 9 minus their position).

Other will have different ideas, but I always set the exhaust valves at
.012 as too loose is a bit noisy but too tight is expensive.

Geo