Subject: [TR] tenax windshield posts

From: Gary Nafziger <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 20:57:33 -0700 (PDT)

I'm looking at a newly chromed windshield frame (tr-3).  I'm realizing I can't
find any posts to attach to the windshield for the top to clip too.  My frame
will not take threaded posts.  It looks like it takes long threaded posts that
go completely through the frame and attach with a nut on the back
side........which means longer than 1/2 half inch.  From what I can see it
looks like the posts available, need to screw into the first wall of the
channel without going through.  

I'm wondering if a prior owner drilled
completely through the frame.  

any ideas or solutions?

gary n.

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 23:30:49 -0700

> It looks like it takes long 
> threaded posts that
> side........which means longer than 1/2 half inch.

Those were actually original equipment, on the aluminum frames.  Someone may
have drilled your frame for them to repair the original (damaged) holes
(which is exactly what I'm planning to do, although I'll only do two holes).

TRF has beautiful reproductions (but they aren't cheap).

-- Randall

---

From: Kinderlehrer <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 22:06:20 +0000 (UTC)

My frame didn't have any holes on the inside, but one or two of the holes on t
he outside were too big, or out of shape, to hold th e stud - is that the
situation you are facing? My solution was to use a "nutter" thing which works
much like a pop-rivet but inserts a molly like threaded sleeve. The inserts
are available in aluminum and steel. I got mine at JC Whitney eons ago, but I
have seen them at Harbor Freight among others. I also used itB in a few
locations whereB  the lift-a-dot stud was supposed to screw into wood but the
wood was having no more of it. Anyway, that was a number of years ago and it
is holding up fine. Just a suggestion.

Bob

----- Original Message -----

From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
To: "Gary Nafziger" <[email-masked]>, [email-masked]
Sent: Monday, May 7, 2012 11:30:49 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] tenax windshield B posts

> side........which means longer than 1/2 half inch.

Those were actually original equipment, on the aluminum frames. B Someone may
have drilled your frame for them to repair the original (damaged) holes
(which is exactly what I'm planning to do, although I'll only do two holes).

-- Randall B 

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 15:52:15 -0700

> My frame didn't have any holes on the inside, but one or two of the
> holes on the outside were too big, or out of shape, to hold the stud -
> is that the situation you are facing?

That's my situation, but I think Gary (the OP) already has holes on both sides
of the frame.

> My solution was to use a "nutter"
> thing which works much like a pop-rivet but inserts a molly like
> threaded sleeve.

I believe those are commonly called "Riv-nuts".  I considered using them, but
wasn't sure there was enough room to install them without removing the glass
(which I would rather not do if I don't have to).  Also not sure if they were
strong enough (since the original threads were not).

Not sure if I would recommend the kit from HF.  Took me 3 tries to get one
that worked reasonably well without breaking.

> I also used it in a few locations where the lift-a-dot
> stud was supposed to screw into wood but the wood was having no more of
> it.

For that situation, I generally just coat a kitchen match stick with wood
glue, jam it into the hole and break it off flush with the surface.  Then just
screw the LTD in as usual, being sure to pick up one of the LTD studs that are
meant for wood rather than sheet metal. (They have longer threads for a better
grip)

-- Randall

---

From: "Kinderlehrer" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 20:19:13 -0700

Fools rush in... but it this case it worked out, there was no interference
with the glass and it seems as strong if not stronger than the original. My
JCW version is probably not much better - I do have to yell at it a lot to
make it work. It's been a while, but I think I tried the match stick trick
but there just wasn't enough wood. On the doors I took the wood out behind
the side curtain mounts, drilled the holes out and filled them with wooden
dowels.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked]
[mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 3:52 PM
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] tenax windshield posts

> is that the situation you are facing?

That's my situation, but I think Gary (the OP) already has holes on both
sides of the frame.

> thing which works much like a pop-rivet but inserts a molly like 

I believe those are commonly called "Riv-nuts".  I considered using them,
but wasn't sure there was enough room to install them without removing the
glass (which I would rather not do if I don't have to).  Also not sure if
they were strong enough (since the original threads were not).

> I also used it in a few locations where the lift-a-dot stud was 
> supposed to screw into wood but the wood was having no more of it.

For that situation, I generally just coat a kitchen match stick with wood
glue, jam it into the hole and break it off flush with the surface.  Then
just screw the LTD in as usual, being sure to pick up one of the LTD studs
that are meant for wood rather than sheet metal. (They have longer threads
for a better
grip)

-- Randall