Subject: [TR] Towing a TR3A without a trailer/dolly

From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 13:19:26 -0400

Hi listers,

Not sure if this is a good idea or not but Im thinking of rigging my (daily
driver) TR3A to tow behind an RV without
a trailer or dolly (4 down in RV parlance).   Obviously I cant phone up the
tow bar people and get an off the
shelf mounting bracket for a TR so I was looking at having one fabricated.

My goal is to not reduce the ground clearance any more then is already there
so Id thought of using the 4 bolts that
go through the frame to hold the front bumper outriggers on.   If I use the
inner side of the bolt (between the frame
rails) it wont change the placement of the outriggers.  (I dont have a
rad/sump guard to get in the way).

I was thinking of a couple of 18 4-6mm flat steel sections shaped sort of
like Js (or flat field hockey stick)
lying on its back with a piece of say 2 box steel across the crook of the
J section to act as the mounting
point for the tow bar pins.   That way the bar angle wont interfere with the
bumper and it raises the mounting point
slightly and the pulling stress will be on the steel and not the welds.  Id
put the mounting pins a couple of inches
to the outside of the "J" to make the tow bar resemble a triangle a bit more
in the hops of improving stability.
Safety chains would attach behind the suspension uprights.

Ive seen MGBs and even a 356 towed like this so Im probably not the first TR
owner to try this,  any idea what the
thickness required for the J or the cross piece?  Am I nuts?  ;)

Thanks,

Art.

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 13:31:55 -0700

Likely you've already thought of this, but JIC: the TR gearbox will not
lubricate itself properly when being towed.  Short distances and low speeds
are OK, but I would disconnect the driveshaft for over 40 miles or so, or
freeway speeds for any distance.

Personally, I think it's a bad idea.  I used to flat-tow a FWD Chevy (which
didn't have the lubrication problem).  It towed well enough on average, but
had a tendency for the front wheels to get jammed against one lock when
pulling through driveways (leaving a gas station, for example).  And it had
positive caster, unlike a TR3A.  Also, after towing it that way for a few
years, I discovered that the front crossmember was broken through.  I don't
know if that had anything to do with the towing, but it seems suspicious to
me.

Combined with the hassle of disconnecting and reconnecting the driveshaft,
not to mention the hassle and modifications to hook up the lights to your
motorhome, a tow dolly or trailer seems like a wise investment to me.

Don't know if it's still true, but Joe A. used to have a local fabricator
who would make a custom TR trailer for a very reasonable price.  I would
have bought one myself, but don't have any place to store it (and the
motorhome is gone, partially for the same reason).

-- Randall

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From: Jeff <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 21:07:03 -0400

> Combined with the hassle of disconnecting and reconnecting the driveshaft,

Not to detract form anything else you've said (all of which I agree 
with), but there are companies that make a quick disconnect for the 
drive shaft.  Looks something like the sliding member in your gearbox.  
A PITA, no doubt, to find or fabricate one for a TR3, but if you insist 
on going that route, it might be worth investigating.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.