Subject: Re: [TR] Slow idle drop

From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 17:40:35 -0400 (EDT)

Move the throttle linkage by hand and watch for proper return spring action 
 when you let go
 
You should have a return spring on each carb  and a return spring on the 
throttle linkage.
 
A friend had a similar problem and found the return spring missing from one 
 of his 2 rebuilt carbs.
 
If it isn't that, I'd remove air filters - stick finger in mouth of carb,  
lift air valve with finger, make sure air valve drops quickly and firmly 
down  when you release it.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc

In a message dated 5/7/2012 3:39:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[email-masked] writes:

I  recently installed professionally rebuilt ZS carbs on late TR6 engine.  
I'm
having an issue I hope to get some advice on.  After running at  speed, say
2500 to 3000 rpm, and then coming to stop, the rpm is very slow  to drop to
normal idle.  I would say it takes about 10 seconds to  settle down. The
problem is also evident when up shifiting, as the rpm  stays high between
gears.  I have inspected the linkage and don't find  that it is hanging up
anywhere. Is it possible though that it could be  something with the way I
reinstalled the linkage?  Or could it be that  the vacumn advance is not
functioning properly, or????

Looking  forward to suggestions.
TIA
Ed

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From: "Al Salvatore" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 20:17:05 -0400

Anybody have any ideas on where to get O-rings for the TR6 brake pressure 
switch, that are brake fluid friendly.

I know I can go to Ace and get O-rings, but its the compatability question.

The local auto parts stores don't have..

Moss has a repair kit  (181-995), but $15.00 plus shipping for just two 
little o-rings seams a bit much.
A couple of years ago they were $8.95.

Al

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From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 2:12:54 +0000

I got mine at NAPA o-ring size 008 they assured me they were brake fluid resistant nitrile if I recall right.  

Also Google buckeye triumphs look in the tech session for pwda rebuild.

Greg Lemon

---- Al Salvatore <[email-masked]> wrote: 
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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 19:47:02 -0700

EPDM is the material you want (or SBR but it is much harder to find).

According to Nelson, you want size #008.  MMC will sell you a package of 100
for $6.22.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3482
(scroll way, way down)

-- Randall

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From: "Al Salvatore" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 00:11:45 -0400

Greg & Randall

Thanks for the info on the O-Rings.

Al

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From: "Al Salvatore" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 20:03:00 -0400

Hi,

I looked at MMC description of EPDM which says they are  water and steam 
resistant. #9557k459 , $6.22

They have an O-ring  called Viton ETP  fluoroelastomer which are  chemical 
and oil resistant.  # 2857T114,  $4.21

>From their description of the seals it seams like the Viton ETP  would be 
the more correct O-Ring , if I'm reading the descriptions correctly.

A bit confused.

Al

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 18:29:16 -0700

Viton is not recommended for use with conventional brake fluid.  One report
I found said it swelled by 56% when exposed to "Girling Crimson" for 2
weeks.  Obviously unacceptable.

EPDM is the right stuff, even if MMC doesn't mention all the uses for it.  
http://www.columbiaerd.com/epdm_orings.php

Here's the same chart for Viton
http://www.columbiaerd.com/fluorocarbon_orings.php

-- Randall