Subject: [Tigers] Fw: Steering Rack

From: Joel Martin via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2016 16:20:16 +0000 (UTC)

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    =20
I am having some clearance issues with the passenger side wheel and tire wh=
en the wheel is turned all the way to the left.=C2=A0 Turned right the clea=
rance on the drivers wheel is just right.=C2=A0 I am running 205/50/15 tire=
s/wheels.
I have centered the rack multiple times to ensure correct and it is.
Steering wheel turn to left is 1.75 turns, stock 15" steering wheel.=C2=A0 =
Steering wheel to right is 1.25 turns.=C2=A0 I believe the internal stops a=
re not working or are bad.=C2=A0 The wheel/tire hits on the passenger side =
sway bar bracket and the tie rod bolt when completely turned to the left.
Any ideas?
Can the steering rack stops be repaired or is it best to go with the MG Mid=
get rack, which one? MGB Steering arms and Midget or MGB tire rod ends with=
 Dale A's adapter kit?
Any help will be appreciated.
RegardsJoel Martin

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ui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_33785" style=3D"color:#000;background-color:=
#fff;font-family:garamond, new york, times, serif;font-size:16px;"><div dir=
=3D"ltr" id=3D"yiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21166">I am hav=
ing some clearance issues with the passenger side wheel and tire when the w=
heel is turned all the way to the left.&nbsp; Turned right the clearance on=
 the drivers wheel is just right.&nbsp; I am running 205/50/15 tires/wheels=
.</div><div id=3D"yiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21257" dir=
=3D"ltr"><br></div><div id=3D"yiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_=
21317" dir=3D"ltr">I have centered the rack multiple times to ensure correc=
t and it is.</div><div id=3D"yiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_2=
1309" dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div id=3D"yiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_14701=
42991733_21301" dir=3D"ltr">Steering wheel turn to left is 1.75 turns, stoc=
k 15" steering wheel.&nbsp; Steering wheel to right is 1.25 turns.&nbsp; I =
believe the internal stops are not working or are bad.&nbsp; The wheel/tire=
 hits on the passenger side sway bar bracket and the tie rod bolt when comp=
letely turned to the left.</div><div id=3D"yiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1=
470142991733_21357" dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div id=3D"yiv4959560607yui_3_16_=
0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21422" dir=3D"ltr">Any ideas?</div><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<br></div><div id=3D"yiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21423" di=
r=3D"ltr">Can the steering rack stops be repaired or is it best to go with =
the MG Midget rack, which one? MGB Steering arms and Midget or MGB tire rod=
 ends with Dale A's adapter kit?</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">Any help will be appreciated.</div><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_14=
70142991733_33799" dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Regards</div><div=
 dir=3D"ltr">Joel Martin<br></div></div></div></div><br><br></div> </div> <=
/div>  </div></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________

[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/[email-masked]

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From: Gary Winblad via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2016 09:13:52 -0700

On 8/2/2016 9:20 AM, Joel Martin via Tigers wrote:
> I have centered the rack multiple times to ensure correct and it is

Centering the rack means to have equal number of turns left to right, no?
You need to adjust the tie rod ends so that you do get equal turns.
You now can turn more to the left, so that means the rack is off to the 
right,
so adjust the driver side "shorter" and the passenger side "longer".

Now, you are running 15in wheels and you could have crash damage or
something.. is this a new install?
There are no adjustable stops in the rack and I can't imagine it could 
get that
far off unless it is starting to fail, something you do not want to happen!!
Gary

[email-masked]

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From: Tom Witt via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2016 10:13:03 -0700

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Depending how the tie rod ends are threaded onto the rack it might =
account for the problem.  Check and see if the exposed threaded area is =
relatively equal.  If not, what appears centered might not actually be. =
Your numbers still add up to 3 turns and I believe that is correct.  I =
doubt you could get an additional 1/2 turn with a stop issue as there =
are only so many rack teeth.
  Regardless of what the rack is doing stop wise, at the least you could =
turn the tie rod ends in opposing directions thus reducing turn =
capability in one direction, while adding in the other. This is what is =
done to correct the above problem.  It has been well over 15 years since =
I worked on my rack. Thus I don=E2=80=99t even recall the method of the =
rack stops. There are tension springs/sliders and if they became loose =
it might cause the pinion to slip on the rack??? Lastly, perhaps the =
rack was damaged and someone cut a portion off to expose the tie rod end =
to clean threads? This could account for the condition I mentioned =
above.  On my rack the rod end had actually been broken and someone hack =
welded an Alpine rod/tie rod on!

As far as I know the rack you need for Dale=E2=80=99s kit is the Older =
Midget rack with the thicker tie rod threads. The newer Midget rack has =
much smaller diameter tie rod ends (sadly I found out the hard way). Tom

From: Joel Martin via Tigers=20
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2016 9:20 AM
To: Tiger List Serve=20
Subject: [Tigers] Fw: Steering Rack

I am having some clearance issues with the passenger side wheel and tire =
when the wheel is turned all the way to the left.  Turned right the =
clearance on the drivers wheel is just right.  I am running 205/50/15 =
tires/wheels.

Steering wheel turn to left is 1.75 turns, stock 15" steering wheel.  =
Steering wheel to right is 1.25 turns.  I believe the internal stops are =
not working or are bad.  The wheel/tire hits on the passenger side sway =
bar bracket and the tie rod bolt when completely turned to the left.

Any ideas?

Can the steering rack stops be repaired or is it best to go with the MG =
Midget rack, which one? MGB Steering arms and Midget or MGB tire rod =
ends with Dale A's adapter kit?

Regards
Joel Martin

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<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Depending how the tie rod ends are threaded onto the rack it might =
account=20
for the problem.&nbsp; Check and see if the exposed threaded area is =
relatively=20
equal.&nbsp; If not, what appears centered might not actually be. Your =
numbers=20
still add up to 3 turns and I believe that is correct.&nbsp; I doubt you =
could=20
get an additional 1/2 turn with a stop issue as there are only so many =
rack=20
teeth.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp; Regardless of what the rack is doing stop wise, at the least =
you=20
could turn the tie rod ends in opposing directions thus reducing turn =
capability=20
in one direction, while adding in the other. This is what is done to =
correct the=20
above problem.&nbsp; It has been well over 15 years since I worked on my =
rack.=20
Thus I don=E2=80=99t even recall the method of the rack stops. There are =
tension=20
springs/sliders and if they became loose it might cause the pinion to =
slip on=20
the rack??? Lastly, perhaps the rack was damaged and someone cut a =
portion off=20
to expose the tie rod end to clean threads? This could account for the =
condition=20
I mentioned above.&nbsp; On my rack the rod end had actually been broken =
and=20
someone hack welded an Alpine rod/tie rod on!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>As far as I know the rack you need for Dale=E2=80=99s kit is the =
Older Midget rack=20
with the thicker tie rod threads. The newer Midget rack has much smaller =

diameter tie rod ends (sadly I found out the hard way). Tom</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Joel Martin via Tigers</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, August 02, 2016 9:20 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Tiger List Serve</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Tigers] Fw: Steering Rack</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
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<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_33779 class=3Dyahoo_quoted=20
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face=3DArial></FONT><BR>
<DIV id=3Dyiv4959560607>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_33786>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_33785=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: garamond, new york, times, serif; =
COLOR: #000; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">
<DIV id=3Dyiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21166 dir=3Dltr>I =
am having=20
some clearance issues with the passenger side wheel and tire when the =
wheel is=20
turned all the way to the left.&nbsp; Turned right the clearance on the =
drivers=20
wheel is just right.&nbsp; I am running 205/50/15 tires/wheels.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21257 =
dir=3Dltr>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21317 dir=3Dltr>I =
have=20
centered the rack multiple times to ensure correct and it is.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21309 =
dir=3Dltr>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21301 =
dir=3Dltr>Steering=20
wheel turn to left is 1.75 turns, stock 15" steering wheel.&nbsp; =
Steering wheel=20
to right is 1.25 turns.&nbsp; I believe the internal stops are not =
working or=20
are bad.&nbsp; The wheel/tire hits on the passenger side sway bar =
bracket and=20
the tie rod bolt when completely turned to the left.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21357 =
dir=3Dltr>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21422 =
dir=3Dltr>Any=20
ideas?</DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyiv4959560607yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_21423 =
dir=3Dltr>Can the=20
steering rack stops be repaired or is it best to go with the MG Midget =
rack,=20
which one? MGB Steering arms and Midget or MGB tire rod ends with Dale =
A's=20
adapter kit?</DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>Any help will be appreciated.</DIV>
<DIV id=3Dyui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1470142991733_33799 dir=3Dltr>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>Regards</DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>Joel=20
Martin<BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV><BR><BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV><=
/DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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[email-masked]

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From: Derrick Schmidt via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2016 17:06:55 +0000 (UTC)

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 blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px =
#715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:whi=
te !important; } Doing the Wilwood rear brake upgrade. Going to make new br=
akes lines for the short sections in the rear. Been reading and YouTubing a=
nd come across a number of references to Nickel Copper tubing being all tha=
t & a bag of chips in that it is as good as stainless as far as durability =
/ reliability but easier to work with.=C2=A0
Any agreement / disagreement?
Thanks.=C2=A0
Derrick
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<style type="text/css" scoped> blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px #715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white !important; } </style>Doing the Wilwood rear brake upgrade. Going to make new brakes lines for the short sections in the rear. Been reading and YouTubing and come across a number of references to Nickel Copper tubing being all that &amp; a bag of chips in that it is as good as stainless as far as durability / reliability but easier to work with.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>Any agreement / disagreement?</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Derrick</div>
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[email-masked]

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From: Ron Fraser via Tigers <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2016 18:08:54 -0400

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Derrick

                I believe you have the correct handle on that.

Regular brake line is steel and easy to work

Nickel Copper is next grade up, more expensive and easy to work

Stainless is top dollar but it requires different fittings and requires =
a different set of skills to work the material correctly

=20

Classic Tube I believe has stainless line pre made or they have bulk =
sets with line and fittings.  You would have to check with them about =
your setup for pre made.

=20

I have regular steel lines with silicone brake fluid.  I installed them =
about 30 years ago with no problems.  Mostly it depends on what you want =
and what gives you peace of mind that you have the correct lines for =
your purpose.

=20

Ron Fraser

=20

From: Tigers [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Derrick =
Schmidt via Tigers
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2016 1:07 PM
To: Tiger List Serve <[email-masked]>
Subject: [Tigers] Brake line material

=20

Doing the Wilwood rear brake upgrade. Going to make new brakes lines for =
the short sections in the rear. Been reading and YouTubing and come =
across a number of references to Nickel Copper tubing being all that & a =
bag of chips in that it is as good as stainless as far as durability / =
reliability but easier to work with.=20

=20

=20

Thanks.=20

=20

Derrick

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Derrick<o:p><=
/o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
 I believe you have the correct handle on that.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Regular =
brake line is steel and easy to work<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Nickel =
Copper is next grade up, more expensive and easy to =
work<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Stainless is =
top dollar but it requires different fittings and requires a different =
set of skills to work the material correctly<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Classic Tube =
I believe has stainless line pre made or they have bulk sets with line =
and fittings.=C2=A0 You would have to check with them about your setup =
for pre made.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>I have =
regular steel lines with silicone brake fluid.=C2=A0 I installed them =
about 30 years ago with no problems.=C2=A0 Mostly it depends on what you =
want and what gives you peace of mind that you have the correct lines =
for your purpose.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>Ron =
Fraser<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><div><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Tigers [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Derrick Schmidt via Tigers<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, August 07, 2016 =
1:07 PM<br><b>To:</b> Tiger List Serve =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> [Tigers] Brake line =
material<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Doing the =
Wilwood rear brake upgrade. Going to make new brakes lines for the short =
sections in the rear. Been reading and YouTubing and come across a =
number of references to Nickel Copper tubing being all that &amp; a bag =
of chips in that it is as good as stainless as far as durability / =
reliability but easier to work with.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Any agreement / =
disagreement?<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Derrick<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></body></html>
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