Subject: Re: [Tigers] A few random questions

From: "Thomas Witt" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 11:51:52 -0700

Jeff,

 I'll reply to #3 and # 5.

#3  The fan you inquire about is C9DZ-8600-A catalog number and CF-C9DE-A 
manufacturing number.  While somewhat vague the reputed application is an 
early 70's Mavrick with an inline 6 cylinder and A/C.  I do not know it they 
are still available from Ford.  I spent YEARS (at least 10) searching self 
serve wrecking yards on a monthly basis before I found one.  If you have the 
stock Tiger water pump (or hub) the center hole needs to be enlarged.

A noted second option is the Volvo fan.  Again, a limited application it is 
a 5 blade asymetrical fan. The center hole is actually a bit too large for 
the Tiger hub. A bushing is needed or your ability to self center the fan 
( I generally rotate the fan and pulley in opposite directions to self 
center the bolt holes and have a second party tighten the bolts).  Having 
found myself the desired C9DZ-8600-A.  I now have three of the Volvo fans. I 
have a longer piece on the Volvo fan below.

#5  I believe most of the rack boot repair kits come with plastic zip ties. 
To me that is inadaquate.  Regular sized hose clamps are too large.  A lot 
of the 80's era Volvo's and BMW's used hose clamps that are the right 
diameter and are narrow enough to work.  The ends angle upward to resist 
biting into the rubber.

Below is a lengthy email I sent the list years ago regarding the Volvo fan. 
for those who care to read:

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF THE VOLVO FAN?
The fan will bolt directly to the stock Tiger water pump hub (1") without
modification. HOWEVER, the center hole size on the Volvo fan is 1-1/8th
inch. To center the fan the bolts can be brought just touching the fan, then
with a second helper twist the fan in one direction and the hub in the other
and then tighten. This will self-center the fan on the outside edges of the
bolts. A second caution here. My fan comes very close to the rack so, if you
motor mounts are old or spacers are missing you may still have to trim.
   If you are budget minded another advantage is cost. The fans I've gotten
at Pick A Part have been $7 (compare that to the $250 Maverick fan!). I
don't have the info in front of me, but I recall testing where the Volvo fan
was third behind the Derale and Maverick fans, but still ahead quite a bit
over the stock fan.

WHAT DOES THE VOLVO FAN LOOK LIKE?
The words Volvo and FRONT are on the center piece (hub as I call it). There
are all "safety yellow" (though many are "dirty" black). The blades are
offset in pairs of three and two (asymmetrical). There are three rivets per
blade. The center hub is thick steel and the blades appear to be stainless.

WHERE DO I FIND THE FAN?
Volvo's with the older push rod engine. Not all Volvo's of this time period
have the fan, in fact only a few. Most often it is the 142-144 (4cylinder)
or 162-164 (6 cylinder) models.
I did find a rare, but identical fan on an older Volvo 122.

WHAT ARE THE PART NUMBERS?
The more common number from the 140-160 series is 683541. The two I have
also have IMP #'s OF 69 34 and 73 10 respectively (likely a date code).
The fan from the 122 has a part number of 653841 and a secondary number of
9144580G69.

I can't attest to effectivesness as my 2 year Tiger "project" is now beyond
it's 4th year (strike that, now 13+ years - 2013).
_______________________________________________

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From: "Jeff Feit" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 17:18:38 -0400

Thanks for all the quick responses! A bit more info, and response to some of
your questions.

The history of this car is a little better known than it sounded from my first
post. The car was originally bought for my father-in-law in July of 1970, from
the original owner with complete records including the original sales invoice.
He drove it until 1973 when my wife was born; at that point the car went into
storage and Ibm not really sure how much it was driven. In 1984 he pulled it
out of storage with the intention to get it up and running and sell, in order
to fund the airplane he was building in his garage. When his father (my
wifebs grandfather, also an antique car collector) found out he was going to
sell it, he offered to buy it. It stayed with them and went to a few car
shows, and sometime in the early 90bs it broke down and was towed home and
sat there. My wifebs grandfather died around 1995. In 1997, my wife
(fiancC)e at the time) and I decided to see if we could get it going again. I
rebuilt the carb, replaced all the ignition parts, replaced all the rubber
brake lines, and rebuilt the calipers and brake cylinders and we were off and
running. We were then given the car as a wedding gift in 1998. We moved to
Michigan in 1998 and lived there until 2010, and the car was driven regularly
during that time. In the last few years after moving back to PA the leaks had
gotten progressively worse to the point that it wasnbt really drivable so I
bit the bullet and started on this project. My father-in-law is recently
retired and lives nearby, so he is familiar with the car and has a (foggy)
memory of much of its historybso there isnbt any question that it is the
original engine and trans, etc.

The manifolds are definitely 7/16-14, we already cleaned up all the holes. The
reason I was questioning the bolts is that the hole wasnbt through, which
would make it possible to bottom the bolt before the pipe was tight. I was
just going to go with whatever was originally there. Sounds like Ronbs info
says it was a bolt. Mine has a donut gasket.

As we have driven it quite a bit, I know that it does have cooling problems
but only when driven slowly/idled in hot weather. Usually itbs hot but OK as
long as itbs running, but boils over after it is stopped. The radiator looks
amazingly clean. The antifreeze that has been in it since 1997 came out
looking bright green, and when I flushed it with a hose it came out relatively
clear. I think it must have been redone at some point as the paint is in very
good shape. I think the gas tanks have been done too. Very likely while my
wifebs grandfather was taking care of it.

I could use wire ties as a backup for the steering rack, and there are also
universal clamps out there. I was just wondering if the brightb ones were
available. Unlike a power rack, the boots actually hold the oil in (not just
keep dust out) so itbs more of a mission critical item. The service manual
actually has a detailed section about servicing the rack, so I will probably
check the clearances and put new oil it.

Jeff

[email-masked]

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From: michael king <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:17:38 +1000

Jeff,

Are you sure your Tiger s a MKIA? The VIN you give is a B947 which would be
a I.. the IA's are the 3820 cars.

On 29 May 2013 03:22, Jeff Feit <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I've been on and off the Tiger list since 1998. To keep a very long story
> short, our car is a MK1A, B9471573. It has been in my wife's family since
> 1970 (as the second owners) and in our care since 1998.
>

-- 
Regards

Michael King

[email-masked]